HAIR DESIGN CONNECTING THEORY TO REAL-WORLD PRACTICE LEARNING THE DIFFERENT WAYS TO DESIGN HAIR WILL HELP YOU:

10 CONNECTING THEORY TO REAL-WORLD PRACTICE LEARNING THE DIFFERENT WAYS TO DESIGN HAIR WILL HELP YOU: PERSONAL CONNECTION: IMPROVE YOURSELF Wear hair designs that are flattering and reflect your personality INDUSTRY CONNECTION: BECOME A PROFESSIONAL Attract and retain clientele by delivering consistently excellent hair designs CLIENT CONNECTION: SERVE THE GUEST Fulfill client needs by offering a wide array of hair design options 10.1 THEORY ANALYSIS TOOLS FOR ING SETTING BASE CONTROL FINISHING ESSENTIALS INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY SERVICE ESSENTIALS 10.2 WET DESIGN TECHNIQUES FINGERWAVES PINCURLS SKIP WAVES ROLLERS WET DESIGN PROCEDURE OVERVIEW 10.3 THERMAL DESIGN TECHNIQUES AIR FORMING HAIR PRESSING THERMAL IRONS THERMAL DESIGN PROCEDURE OVERVIEW 10.4 LONG THEORY LONG ANALYSIS CLIENT CONSIDERATIONS LONG ING LONG ESSENTIALS INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY LONG SERVICE ESSENTIALS 10.5 LONG TECHNIQUES TWISTS KNOTS OVERLAPS BRAIDS LOOPS ROLLS LONG PROCEDURE OVERVIEW COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS 265

THE SUCCESS OF ANY HAIR SERVICE LIES IN THE DESIGN OF ITS FINISHED FORM, TEXTURE, DIRECTION AND MOVEMENT WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW: The theoretical foundations for a successful hair design service The primary techniques for wet design The primary techniques for thermal design The theoretical knowledge required for a successful long hair design service The primary techniques for long hair design 266

smartnotes ANALYSIS 10.1 THEORY 10 PAGES 313-320 Hair design is the art of dressing and arranging hair to create temporary changes in the form and texture of the finished hair design PRIMARY CONSIDERATIONS FORM AND SHAPE Form, shape, texture and direction Basic level of observation Look for: Volume = Indentation = TEXTURE Detail level of observation Look for: Surface Texture: Unactivated = Activated = Types of texture: DIRECTION Abstract level of observation Look for: HELPFUL HINT Combination of form, texture and color creates a final design; consider color placement in final design. Directional Changes: COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS 267

smartnotes TOOLS FOR ING 10.1 THEORY PAGES 320-323 Select a tool from the list that is most commonly used to achieve the function below. Blow Dryers Air Forming Brushes Round Brushes Cushion Brushes Rollers Curling Irons Pressing Combs Flat Irons Undulating Irons Crimping Irons Hot Brushes Or Combs Molding Combs Master Sketcher Combs Fine-Tooth Tail Combs Wide-Tooth Tail Combs Liquid Tools Distribute, mold, part and scale Create S pattern or wave formation Create temporary curvilinear texture patterns by applying heat; also known as marcel irons Create curved end texture Allow greatest airflow Straighten tightly curled hair by applying heat and tension Relax a set, backbrush or smooth the surface Air form wet hair Add shine and a range of support to hair Backcomb and finish the hair Create airflow, but also comb and curl the hair Straighten and silk the hair temporarily Create crimped texture when heated Create a more structured finish to a wet design Backcomb and smooth the hair Distribute and mold the hair SETTING Procedural steps for wet and thermal design are very similar; the physical actions and tools will vary, but the principles behind controlling the hair remain the same TWO TYPES OF SETTING 1 2 Setting Setting 268

smartnotes 10 10.1 THEORY PAGES 323-326 FIVE PROCEDURAL STEPS FOR SETTING 1 DISTRIBUTE Distribution is the the hair is or dispersed over the of the head POINT OF ORIGIN TWO TYPES OF DISTRIBUTION PARALLEL DISTRIBUTION RADIAL DISTRIBUTION 2 MOLD Molding, also known as shaping, is designing hair in or lines to create a pattern 3 SCALE Carving of shapes in the proper predetermined size and to establish the lines of the design; also known as GEOMETRIC SHAPES USED IN DESIGN STRAIGHT SHAPES Straight shapes include, and Draw the distribution patterns for these straight shapes RECTANGLE TRIANGLE DIAMOND/KITE TRAPEZOID COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS 269

smartnotes 10.1 THEORY PAGES 326-328 CURVATURE SHAPES Curved shapes or sections include, and Draw the distribution patterns for these curvature shapes CIRCLE HALF CIRCLE EXPANDED CIRCLE OVAL OBLONG EXPANDED OVAL 4 PART Partings are lines that subdivide shapes or sections to help distribute and control the hair after and Subsections are often called PARTING PATTERNS Draw the parting pattern for the following shapes. PARALLEL RADIAL 270

smartnotes 10 10.1 THEORY PAGES 328-329 5 APPLY TOOLS Hair is set by applying a tool such as a roller, round brush or curling iron to produce desired amount of volume, and desired degree of texture and TOOL DIAMETER AND CURL SIZE Size of the curl is determined by of the tool or pincurl HELPFUL HINT There are three components of every curl, which are basically the same regardless of the tool or technique used to create it. Tools with larger diameters = Tools with smaller diameter = tighter or waves curls THREE CURL COMPONENTS BASE STEM (ARC) CIRCLE REFERS TO 1. How will these five procedural steps for setting help you become a better hair designer? BASE CONTROL Refers to: 1. 2. Affects the amount of or achieved and is used within straight or curvature shapes to create 3-D forms COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS 271

smartnotes 10.1 THEORY PAGES 329-330 STRAIGHT VOLUME AND INDENTATION BASE CONTROL Straight volume and straight indentation base controls are performed within straight shapes such as rectangle, triangle and trapezoid STRAIGHT VOLUME STRAIGHT INDENTATION BASE SIZE STRAIGHT VOLUME TOOL POSITION Position of tool in relation to base will affect the lift or volume as well as base strength (support) TOOL POSITION BASE SIZE PROJECTION ANGLE DESCRIPTION EFFECT On base (Full base) 1x Tool sits completely within the base Half-off base (Half base) 1x, 1½x, 2x Tool sits half-off and half-on the bottom parting Off base 1x, 1½x, 2x Tool sits completely off the bottom parting Underdirected 1½x, 2x Tool sits in the lower portion of the base, but not on or below the parting Overdirected (Volume base) 1½x, 2x Tool sits in the upper portion of the base, but not on or above the parting 272

smartnotes 10 10.1 THEORY PAGE 331 STRAIGHT INDENTATION TOOL POSITION Position of tool and size of base influence amount of hollow space or flatness TOOL POSITION BASE SIZE PROJECTION ANGLE DESCRIPTION EFFECT On base (Full base) 1x Tool sits completely on its base, rolled in an upward direction Half-off base (Half base) 1x, 1½x, 2x Tool sits half on and half off its base, rolled in an upward direction Off base 1x, 1½x, 2x Tool sits completely off its base, rolled in an upward direction Underdirected 1½x, 2x Tool sits within the base close to the bottom of the parting, rolled in an upward direction Notice that the tool positions in the chart above are arranged from easiest to most complex. Which of these tool positions do you think you will use most often? CURVATURE VOLUME AND INDENTATION BASE CONTROL Used to create 3-dimensional forms CURVATURE VOLUME CURVATURE INDENTATION BASE SIZES COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS 273

smartnotes 10.1 THEORY PAGES 332-333 CURVATURE VOLUME TOOL POSITION TOOL POSITION BASE SIZE PROJECTION ANGLE LABEL THE ILLUSTRATION On base 1x 45 above center Underdirected 1½x, 2x 90 from center Half-off base 1x, 1½x, 2x 90 from center Off base 1x, 1½x, 2x 45 below center CURVATURE INDENTATION TOOL POSITION Tool position changes when setting curvature indentation; base controls are the same curvature pincurls CURVATURE PINCURLS Curved partings are used for setting pincurls within curvature shapes; base controls are the same as for rollers CURVATURE VOLUME AND INDENTATION AIR FORMING Air forming volume and indentation are controlled by three factors: 1. 2. HELPFUL HINT In summary, base size and tool position determine the amount of volume or indentation in a hair design. 3. 274

smartnotes FINISHING 10.1 THEORY Also referred to as ; steps are similar for rollers, pincurls or thermal designing 10 PAGES 333-334 FINISHING CHECKLIST Address blending Create support Add volume Define form Add finishing touches FIVE STEPS FOR FINISHING Briefly describe the purpose of each step of the finishing phase of hair design. 1 RELAX 2 DRY MOLD 3 BACKBRUSH/BACKCOMB (OPTIONAL) 4 DEFINE THE FORM 5 DETAIL COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS 275

smartnotes WET DESIGN 10.2 WET DESIGN TECHNIQUES PAGES 340-341 Wet hair refers to the area of hair designing in which the hair is manipulated into the desired shapes and movements while wet and then allowed to dry FINGERWAVES Art of shaping and hair into graceful FINGERWAVING Basic tools:,, Created by molding two complete alternating are joined by a shapes that Pinching or pushing the ridge will create overdirection of the wave and is not recommended. Fingerwaves with low ridges are known as shadow waves. PINCURLS Pincurls are used primarily to create temporary effects or specialized closeness and allow a wide range of movement; not recommended for tightly curled hair COMPONENTS OF A PINCURL PINCURL BASE PINCURL STEM (ARC) PINCURL CIRCLE LABEL THE COMPONENTS OF A PINCURL HELPFUL HINT If pincurls are not smooth, the resulting curl or wave will not be smooth. 276

smartnotes 10 10.2 WET DESIGN TECHNIQUES PAGES 342-345 BASE SHAPES FOR PINCURLS Primary reason for using various base shapes when working with pincurls is to avoid in finished hair design THREE COMMON PINCURL BASE SHAPES 1. 2. 3. BASE CONTROL FOR PINCURLS The sizes of pincurl bases are usually related to the diameter of the circle which, in turn, determines the resulting wave or curl BASE CONTROL POSITION EFFECT On-base pincurl (Full base) Half-off base pincurl (Half stem) Off-base pincurl (Full stem) Underdirected Entire circle of curl positioned on base Half of circle is positioned below the base Stem and circle are positioned below the base Circle sits on the lower portion of base Overdirected (Volume base) Circle sits in upper portion of the base STRAIGHT PINCURLS 3 TYPES OF CURVATURE PINCURLS FLAT VOLUME INDENTATION Base, stem and circle are flat Used for Also known as or sculpted curls Base and stem are Circle turns under Create and height indentation Base is Stem (arc) and circle are lifted Create hollow and flare COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS 277

smartnotes PINCURLS: HALF-CIRCLE AND HALF-OVAL 10.2 WET DESIGN TECHNIQUES CURL WITHIN HALF-CIRCLE CURL WITHIN HALF-OVAL PAGES 345-347 SKIP WAVES Skip waves are composed of two alternating oblongs connected by a ridge; one oblong is molded and one is set 1 FIRST: Oblong is molded (skipped) 2 NEXT: Oblong is set with pincurls or rollers 3 FINALLY: Achieves wide, deep flowing waves RIDGE CURL An example of a skip wave is a wave pattern that combines fingerwaves and flat pincurls ROLLERS 2 REASONS FOR ROLLERS Used to set hair and can achieve many of the same effects achieved with pincurls 1. 2. ROLLER DIAMETER Chosen according to desired curl pattern ROLLERS IN STRAIGHT SHAPES Cylindrical rollers are usually used within straight shapes such as rectangles and triangles RECTANGLE TRIANGLE Rectangle: Use rollers of length Triangle: Use rollers that progress from to or maybe use a bricklay pattern 278

smartnotes 10 10.2 WET DESIGN TECHNIQUES PAGES 347-348 ROLLERS IN CURVATURE SHAPES Curvature shapes use cone-shaped rollers Also known as conical or rollers CURVATURE SHAPES POSITION TO ACHIEVE APPLIED USING Fringe area and/or sides Curvature volume that directs equal amounts of hair off the face and on the face, with equal radial lines Equal length rollers positioned one diameter away from a single point of origin Fringe area and/or sides Larger curls that extend the curvature direction from the circle or half-circle while maintaining equal radial lines Inner and Outer Technique Inner circle set as a normal half-circle Outer circle set using the inner circle point of origin Rollers are positioned within their base, versus one diameter away from the point of origin for the inner circle Fringe area and/or sides Curvature volume that directs hair with unequal radial lines Unequal length rollers positioned one diameter away from a single point of origin Top front or sides of the head Curvature movement that travels toward the back Indirect Technique Each roller set from its own point of origin that is established at the front bottom corner of the previously set roller Rollers positioned one diameter away from their point of origin Anywhere on the head in any direction A strong wave pattern Rollers positioned diagonally and set from multiple points of origin Volume oblongs begin at the convex end Indentation oblongs begin at the concave end COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS 279

smartnotes THERMAL DESIGNING 10.3 THERMAL DESIGN TECHNIQUES Thermal designing is the technique of drying and/or designing hair by using a PAGES 351-354 hand-held dryer while simultaneously using your fingers, a variety of brushes, pressing comb and/or a thermal curling iron HOW THERMAL DESIGN WORKS HELPFUL HINT Hair needs to cool completely prior to brushing or combing. 1. Hydrogen bonds are by the of thermal service 2. Protein chains shift and accept new 3. Heat is removed and hair cools 4. Bonds are AIR FORMING AIR FORMING GUIDELINES Also called Use heat-protective styling lotion Remove approximately 90% of water before thermal designing Dry on high setting; design on medium setting; set on cool setting Direct airflow in the direction of cuticle scales Keep dryer 3" to 5" (7.5 cm to 12.5 cm) from hair Use caution with damaged and bleached hair Select three air-forming guidelines from above and discuss with a classmate why each of them is important. ROUND BRUSH AIR FORMING Dries hair of the hair as you change form, direction and texture Diameter chosen influences pattern FINGER STYLING SCRUNCHING 280

smartnotes 10 HAIR PRESSING HAIR PRESSING STEPS 10.3 THERMAL DESIGN TECHNIQUES Hair pressing is a form of temporarily straightening curly and tightly curled hair; also known as 1. Shampoo and PAGES 354-355 2. Air form dry with to reduce natural curl pattern 3. Apply protective or 4. Use hot pressing comb or silking iron on sections of hair to further straighten the curl HAIR PRESSING CONSIDERATIONS Analyzing the type and condition of the hair is important because pressing can require longer periods of heat; avoid pressing chemically treated hair FINE TEXTURE MEDIUM TEXTURE COARSE TEXTURE OR TIGHTLY CURLED Must be treated gently Least difficult to press Can be resistant Less pressure to avoid breakage and Requires no particular precautions Can tolerate and pressure heat PRESSING COMB Tool used to apply heat and tension to temporarily straighten tightly curled hair; use on dry hair TWO TYPES OF PRESSING COMBS 1. 2. PRESSING COMB ACTION Heated of comb is pressed against hair HELPFUL HINT Stove-heated thermal irons need to be checked for temperature by testing on a piece of white paper towel; if paper scorches after 5 seconds need to cool iron. SOFT PRESS: Pressing hair once with less pressure and heat HARD OR DOUBLE PRESS: Pressing the hair twice with more pressure and heat COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS 281

smartnotes THERMAL IRONS 10.3 THERMAL DESIGN TECHNIQUES Thermal irons are used to create complete designs and to impact patterns on dry hair PAGES 355-358 TYPES OF THERMAL IRONS Name 4 types of thermal irons: iron iron iron iron MARCEL GRATEAU Introduced first thermal iron in 1875; some of the most frequently used irons are called marcel curling irons THERMAL CURLING Process of adding curl texture to the hair by applying hair from either an electric or stove-heated curling iron to Label the parts of a curling iron: Rod Shell handle Barrel, or rod Groove, or shell ELECTRIC CURLING IRON Contains heating element controlled by thermostat that maintains temperature CURLING IRON TECHNIQUES Various texture patterns can be achieved by varying position of iron along the hair BASE TO ENDS ENDS TO BASE 282

smartnotes 10 CURLING IRON TECHNIQUES (CONT D) 10.3 THERMAL DESIGN TECHNIQUES PAGES 358-359 ENDS MARCEL SPIRAL SPECIAL-EFFECTS THERMAL IRONS Allow you to create texture other than traditional curvilinear, curled textures STRAIGHTENING/FLAT IRON CRIMPING IRON UNDULATING IRON Parts: Function: Parts: Function: Parts: Function: THERMAL IRON CONSIDERATIONS CLEANING HEAT COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS 283

smartnotes LONG ANALYSIS BASIC LEVELS OF OBSERVATION 10.4 LONG HAIR DESIGN THEORY PAGES 361-366 Long hair designs are composed with attention to the elements of form, texture and color, and are 3-dimensional BASIC = and DETAIL = ABSTRACT = FORM OR SHAPE Placement of mass, or Focal Point: within the design TEXTURE Unactivated (smooth) and activated (patterned) Loops = texture Tightly formed twists = texture DIRECTION Established by position of or HELPFUL HINT Directions within the form can be identified as clockwise, counterclockwise, vertical, horizontal and/or diagonal; can lead your eye rhythmically throughout the design. CLIENT CONSIDERATIONS Considerations to keep in mind as you communicate and work with your client With a classmate or partner, discuss why the following considerations are important to a successful long hair design. 1. Facial features 2. Body structure 3. Hair length, density and texture 4. Occasion 5. Wardrobe 6. Impression PROPORTION & BALANCE Proportional relationship between size, shape, texture and color should be considered in a well-balanced long hair design. 284

smartnotes 10 LONG ING 10.4 LONG HAIR DESIGN THEORY Follow a step-by-step procedure to ensure control of the form as it is being created: PAGES 366-369 1 DISTRIBUTE Defines overall the long hair service of design; performed throughout 2 SECTION Used for the purpose of no ponytails ; can use ponytails or 3 PART Used to hair and in larger sections for control; important in achieving smooth clean lines 4 APPLY Use twists, knots, overlap, braids, loops or rolls; determines whether texture is smooth or BACKCOMBING/BACKBRUSHING SECURING THE DESIGN 5 DETAIL Includes personalizing the form and COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS 285

smartnotes LONG HAIR TECHNIQUES 10.5 LONG HAIR DESIGN TECHNIQUES PAGES 373-378 Identify the long hair design technique with its picture and description: Braids Knots Loops Overlaps Rolls Twists Hair wrapped or wound within itself; can be cylindrical or conical One, two or three strands of hair intertwined and/or rotated to form a rope-like appearance Folding, bending or encircling of hair strands, which are secured in a curvature shape Interlacing or tying together of a strand or strands of hair Two strands crossed to the opposite side, in a downward or upward direction, to create a crisscrossed effect Crossing or weaving of three or more strands of hair 286

10 HOW DID YOU DO THAT? In the space provided below, describe the components used to create each design. YOU BE THE JUDGE Using your judgment skills, offer comments on the following statements. Share and discuss with a classmate the reasons that led to your choices. 1. What is the MOST POPULAR hair design worn today? Why is it so popular? 2. What is the MOST DIFFICULT hair design for you to create? Why is it so difficult? 3. What is the EASIEST hair design for you to create? Why is it the easiest? 4. Which hair design service do you feel will be the most FINANCIALLY rewarding for you? Why will it be financially rewarding? 3 4 5 6 7 COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS 287

IT S YOUR TURN Using the 7 facial shapes provided, sketch a design that best suits each shape. Colored pencils allow you to add color to your creation. Remember your fundamentals of hair designing. Form and Shape Air Forming Direction Wet Design Molding Texture Distribution Sectioning Thermal Design 3 4 5 6 7 288

10 SKILLS BOOSTER Soon you will be putting the fundamentals just learned into action by practicing the related procedures located in A Designer s Approach program. As you review the ideas presented in this chapter consider the following points as a way of boosting your skills. 1. Visualize success: If you could change a celebrity s hair design, which celebrity would you choose and how would you change the design? 2. Practice dealing with clients personally: Next to each of the technical terms, list words you would use to describe these terms to your client. Volume Indentation Lift Scrunching 3. Set a goal for excellence: How long will it take you to perform your first thermal design? TALKING POINTS Your next challenge is to be ready to talk about some of the important ideas in this chapter. Follow the directions listed next to each box. Then practice talking about your ideas with others. Describe an invention that you have just created to use when designing hair. Create a promotional ad for bridal parties regarding hair design. 3 4 5 6 7 Create a promotional ad inviting prom attendees to visit the salon for the most current prom designs. COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS 289

THE CHALLENGE Now it s time to see how well you know your new material. First answer these questions. Then use the Memory Box that follows to check yourself. 1. What are three primary considerations in analyzing a hair design? 2. Name two types of distribution. 3. Define the following parts of a pincurl. Base: Stem: Circle (arc): 4. Base sizes are determined by the size of the tool being used. What are the most commonly used base sizes? 5. TRUE FALSE An on-base, straight volume tool position will give more volume and will have a stronger base strength than a half-off base straight volume tool position. 6. In what area of hair designing is the hair manipulated into the desired shapes and movements while hair is wet and then allowed to dry? 7. The technique of drying and/or designing hair by using a hand-held dryer while simultaneously using your fingers, a variety of brushes, pressing comb and/or a thermal curling iron is known as. 8. Describe how to clean styling residue from a thermal iron? 9. TRUE FALSE The position of volume within a long hair design becomes the focal point. 10. Name three techniques used in long hair design? 3 4 5 6 7 290

10 MEMORY BOX Look up each answer on the corresponding page in the Cosmetology Fundamentals coursebook. Check GOT IT for all correct answers and NOT YET for all incorrect responses. Record all of your correct responses in the I KNOW column. After correcting incorrect answers, record all of your corrected responses in the I NEED TO STUDY column. That way you know exactly what to review before continuing in this study guide. KNOW CHART 1 PAGE 315 GOT IT NOT YET I KNOW I NEED TO STUDY 2 PAGE 324 3 PAGE 329 4 PAGE 330 5 PAGE 330 6 PAGE 340 7 PAGE 351 8 PAGE 359 9 PAGE 363 10 PAGE 373 SHOW YOU KNOW Sketch hair designs from the following decades. Two have been done for you. Explain your sketches. 1900s 1920s 1930s 1940s 1950s 1960s 1970s 1980s 1990s The Future! 3 4 5 6 7 COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS 291

KNOWLEDGE GRID Start at the top of the Knowledge Grid and work your way down, answering each question to check your understanding of Chapter 10, Hair Design. The questions found here will help you deepen your understanding, build self-confidence and increase your awareness of different ways of thinking about a subject. KNOW List the procedural steps for wet setting. COMPREHEND Explain the purpose of scaling within a wet set design. APPLY Draw and label the straight shapes used in hair design. ANALYZE Compare the effect of on-base and off-base tool positions for straight volume base control. SYNTHESIZE Create a promotional ad for the upcoming prom season that advertises your specialty in long hair design. EVALUATE In your own words explain why the three levels of basic observation are so important in hair designing. 3 4 5 6 7 292

10 A CLASS ACT Now that you have completed your work in Hair Design, it s time to demonstrate your creative talents in a class competition. Each member of the class will create an entry for Best Hair Design. Students will plan, sketch, demonstrate and explain their creations. Remember: Before starting you must sketch the design, list key features to be explained and name your creation! DESIGN NAME SKETCH KEY FEATURES All designs will be judged for: 8 9 10 POINTS DESIGN TECHNIQUE EXPLANATION TOTAL POINTS 3 4 5 6 7 COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS 293

BRAIN CONDITIONER Multiple choice. Circle the correct answer. 1. Three levels of observation used to analyze a hair design are basic, detail and: a. abstract b. texture c. detail d. form 2. Which of the following tools consists of two flat plates that are heated and used to straighten and silk the hair? a. flat iron b. pressing comb c. crimping iron d. molding comb 3. Which type of comb is generally used for backcombing and smoothing the surface of the hair? a. molding b. Master Sketcher c. fine-tooth tail d. hot comb 4. The direction the hair is combed or dispersed over the curve of the head is known as: a. scale b. distribution c. mold d. part 5. The process of combing wet hair into the desired position is referred to as molding or: a. scaling b. parting c. shaping d. setting 6. The point of origin is the place where: a. curl ends b. motion ends c. motion begins d. design ends 7. Which type of distribution refers to straight or curved lines that originate from many points of origin and travel at an equal distance from one another? a. curved b. radial c. parallel d. triangle 8. When using radial distribution the hair is distributed from : a. one point of origin b. parallel points of origin c. no point of origin d. multiple points of origin 9. Carving out shapes in the proper predetermined size and proportion is known as: a. scaling b. molding c. distribution d. parting 10. Horizontal partings are generally used within what shape? a. rectangle b. trapezoid c. circle d. oblong 11. An example of a straight shape used in sectioning the hair is a(n): a. triangle b. oblong c. oval d. circle 12. Lines that subdivide shapes or sections to help distribute and control the hair are called: a. roller lengths b. forms c. partings d. bases 13. What is the area between straight or curved partings within a shape, or the section of hair on which the roller, thermal iron or round brush is placed? a. base b. stem c. circle d. arc 294

10 14. What part of the curl determines the amount of movement of the curl? a. base b. stem c. circle d. shape 15. What determines the size of the circle of a curl? a. stem diameter b. base diameter c. tool diameter d. tool length 16. Which diameter size means the area between partings is exactly the same as the diameter of the roller? a. 1x b. 1½x c. 2x d. 2½x 17. An on-base tool position will result in the strongest base strength and the: a. maximum volume b. least strength c. smallest diameter d. least volume 18. Which of the following tool positions will result in the least volume and the least base strength? a. on base b. half-off base c. off base d. underdirected 19. The tool sits in the lower portion of the base, but not on or below the parting in which of the following tool positions? a. on base b. half-off base c. overdirected d. underdirected 20. What phase of hair design is also known as the comb-out? a. setting b. applying c. air forming d. finishing 21. Using a cushion brush to brush all the way to the scalp to integrate the bases is called: a. relaxing b. indentation c. sectioning d. detailing 22. Backbrushing is used to: a. decrease height b. decrease volume c. increase height d. loosen the design 23. To avoid smoke or burning during a hair pressing service use: a. more pressure b. less pressure c. more pressing oil d. less pressing oil 24. Where is a nonflammable comb positioned when performing a thermal design? a. underneath iron b. on top of barrel c. on top of shell handle d. under shell handle 25. What is created by two complete oblong shapes that are joined and connected by a ridge? a. a pincurl b. a flat pincurl c. a skip wave d. a fingerwave 26. Which of the following procedures is NOT a part of wet design? a. fingerwaves b. skip waves c. loops d. pincurls 27. The width and strength of a wave are determined by the size of what part of the pincurl? a. base b. arc c. circle d. stem 28. The beginning portion of the strand that demonstrates the direction of the curl is the: a. base b. circle c. stem d. ridge COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS 295

29. A closed circle will produce a: a. smaller and stronger wave c. larger and stronger wave b. larger and weaker wave d. weaker and larger wave 30. Alternating triangle base shapes helps to avoid: a. blending b. splits c. volume d. backend 31. Pincurls that produce lift or a strong curl effect, or when used in a series create a strong wave line are: a. on-base b. half-off base c. off base d. underdirected 32. Flat pincurls begin at which end of a shaping? a. convex b. concave c. closed d. lift 33. Which curls are large, stand-up pincurls that achieve a similar effect to hair wound around a roller, but result in less volume? a. barrel b. indentation c. flat d. fingerwave 34. Three common curvature pincurls are flat, volume and: a. indentation b. stand-up c. cascade d. barrel 35. Which type of pincurl is used to create hollow space or flare? a. indentation b. flat c. volume d. skip waves 36. Which of the following curls is another name for a flat curl? a. fingerwave b. volume c. sculpture d. indentation 37. Which of the following curls is used for adding fullness and height? a. volume b. flat c. carved d. indentation 38. A wave pattern that combines fingerwaves and flat pincurls is a: a. ridge curl b. skip wave c. connecting ridge d. volume wave 39. The technique of drying and/or designing hair by using a hand-held dryer while simultaneously using your fingers and a variety of tools is known as: a. wet design b. directional designing c. thermal designing d. form designing 40. The blow dryer attachment that fits on the nozzle and allows control of air flow to a small area is called: a. diffuser b. concentrator c. airflow control d. temperature control 41. Before brushing or combing the hair after a thermal procedure, make sure the hair is: a. moist b. cool c. warm d. shampooed 42. Pressing the hair twice with more pressure and heat during a hair pressing service is referred to as a: a. soft press b. curl press c. hard press d. stove press 296

10 43. Checking the temperature by testing the tool on a piece of white paper towel is performed for: a. stove-heated thermal irons c. electric thermal irons b. pressing combs d. blow dryers 44. Which of the following long hair techniques consists of hair that is wrapped or wound within itself? a. loop b. roll c. twist d. overlap 45. Which of the following long hair techniques consists of an interlacing or tying together of a strand or strands of the hair? a. knot b. roll c. twist d. overlap FINAL REVIEW Check your answers as you did before. Place a check mark next to the page number for any incorrect answer. On the lines on the next page, jot down topics that you still need to review. 1. PAGE 315 2. PAGE 321 3. PAGE 322 4. PAGE 324 5. PAGE 324 6. PAGE 324 7. PAGE 324 8. PAGE 324 9. PAGE 325 10. PAGE 328 11. PAGE 325 12. PAGE 328 13. PAGE 329 14. PAGE 329 15. PAGE 329 16. PAGE 330 17. PAGE 330 18. PAGE 330 19. PAGE 330 20. PAGE 333 21. PAGE 333 22. PAGE 334 23. PAGE 354 24. PAGE 357 25. PAGE 341 26. PAGE 373 27. PAGE 341 28. PAGE 341 29. PAGE 341 30. PAGE 342 31. PAGE 342 32. PAGE 344 33. PAGE 343 COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS 297

34. PAGE 344 35. PAGE 345 36. PAGE 345 37. PAGE 345 38. PAGE 345 39. PAGE 351 40. PAGE 352 41. PAGE 353 42. PAGE 355 43. PAGE 355 44. PAGE 378 45. PAGE 374 Notes to Myself Experts tell us that it is important to summarize your feelings and reactions about what you are learning. Note especially things that surprised you, things you found difficult to learn, suggestions and ideas you received from friends that helped make learning this chapter easier and more enjoyable. MY REFLECTIONS ABOUT 298

Things to Do 10 REVIEW THEORY ANALYSIS TOOLS FOR ING SETTING BASE CONTROL FINISHING ESSENTIALS INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY SERVICE ESSENTIALS Form is the result of volume and indentation Texture expands the form or changes the direction of the hair Direction is identified by how hair moves away from the face Blow dryers, brushes, combs, rollers, clips and liquid tools Distribute, mold, scale, part and apply The size of the base in relation to the diameter of the tool, and the position of the tool in relation to the base Affects the amount of volume or closeness Relax, dry mold, backbrush/backcomb, define the form, detail A successful hair design service depends on: Organizing and selecting appropriate products, tools and equipment Practicing infection control and safety precautions Ensuring an exceptional guest experience: Connect, Consult, Create and Complete WET DESIGN TECHNIQUES FINGERWAVES PINCURLS SKIP WAVES ROLLERS Created by molding two complete alternating oblong shapes that are joined and connected by a ridge 7 Used to create temporary effects or specialized closeness Wave pattern that combines fingerwaves and flat pincurls Used to set the hair with tension for longer-lasting results COSMETOLOGY FUNDAMENTALS 299

REVIEW (CONT D) THERMAL DESIGN TECHNIQUES AIR FORMING HAIR PRESSING THERMAL IRONS Dries the hair quickly to change the form, direction and texture of the design Temporarily straightens curly and tightly curled hair A pressing oil is applied to the hair and then a hot pressing comb or silking iron is used to further straighten the curl Adds temporary curl texture to the hair Consists of four parts: rod handle, shell handle, barrel and groove LONG HAIR DESIGN ANALYSIS Placement of volume determines the form; texture is influenced by technique; and direction moves clockwise, counterclockwise, vertical, horizontal and/or diagonal LONG HAIR DESIGN THEORY CLIENT CONSIDERATIONS LONG ING LONG ESSENTIALS INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY LONG SERVICE ESSENTIALS Facial features, body structure, hair length, hair density and texture, occasion, wardrobe and impression Distribute, section, part, apply and detail See Hair Design Essentials on previous page LONG TECHNIQUES GROW WHAT YOU KNOW Discuss what you learned about each of these topics. TWISTS KNOTS OVERLAPS BRAIDS LOOPS ROLLS LONG PROCEDURE OVERVIEW One, two or three strands intertwined and/or rotated to form a rope-like appearance Interlacing or tying together of a strand or strands of hair Two strands crossed to opposite sides in a downward or upward direction to create a crisscrossed effect Crossing or weaving of three or more strands of hair Folding, bending or encircling of hair strands, which are then secured in a curvature shape Hair that is wrapped or wound within itself Distribute, section, part, apply and detail 300