Springer Series in Fashion Business. Series editor Tsan-Ming Choi, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hung Hom, Hong Kong

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Springer Series in Fashion Business Series editor Tsan-Ming Choi, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hung Hom, Hong Kong

More information about this series at http://www.springer.com/series/15202

Jochen Strähle Editor Fashion & Music 123

Editor Jochen Strähle School of Textiles and Design Reutlingen University Reutlingen Germany ISSN 2366-8776 ISSN 2366-8784 (electronic) Springer Series in Fashion Business ISBN 978-981-10-5636-9 ISBN 978-981-10-5637-6 (ebook) DOI 10.1007/978-981-10-5637-6 Library of Congress Control Number: 2017945704 Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd. 2018 This work is subject to copyright. All rights are reserved by the Publisher, whether the whole or part of the material is concerned, specifically the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on microfilms or in any other physical way, and transmission or information storage and retrieval, electronic adaptation, computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed. The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this publication does not imply, even in the absence of a specific statement, that such names are exempt from the relevant protective laws and regulations and therefore free for general use. The publisher, the authors and the editors are safe to assume that the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication. Neither the publisher nor the authors or the editors give a warranty, express or implied, with respect to the material contained herein or for any errors or omissions that may have been made. The publisher remains neutral with regard to jurisdictional claims in published maps and institutional affiliations. Printed on acid-free paper This Springer imprint is published by Springer Nature The registered company is Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd. The registered company address is: 152 Beach Road, #21-01/04 Gateway East, Singapore 189721, Singapore

Acknowledgements I would like to thank all the authors involved in this project. Very special thanks to Mr. Deniz Koeksal for his support of the co-ordination of this book project. v

Contents 1 An Introductory Viewpoint to Fashion and Music... 1 Jochen Strähle 2 Fashion and Music: A Literature Review... 7 Jochen Strähle and Anna-Christina Kriegel 3 Music as Key-Influencer of Fashion Trends... 31 Jochen Strähle and Jennifer Rödel 4 Case Study: Grunge Music and Grunge Style.... 51 Jochen Strähle and Noemi Jahne-Warrior 5 In-Store Music in Fashion Stores... 71 Jochen Strähle and Ronja Hohls 6 Music in Fashion Communication... 93 Jochen Strähle and Mara Keibel 7 Co-design and Endorsement... 117 Jochen Strähle and Gabriele Strobl 8 Creating Differentiation by Style... 135 Jochen Strähle and Patricia Dürr 9 Merchandising in the Music Business... 159 Jochen Strähle and Charline Susan Jackson 10 Case Study: EMP... 177 Jochen Strähle and Myriam Töpfer 11 How Digital Changed the Music Industry... 201 Jochen Strähle and Lukas Köhneke vii

viii Contents 12 Crowdfunding: Learnings from the Music Business... 223 Jochen Strähle and Franziska Lang 13 Case Study: Marillion... 245 Jochen Strähle and Lena Bulling

List of Figures Fig. 2.1 Origin of consulted sources. Own illustration... 8 Fig. 2.2 Number of sources analysed per perspective of Fashion and Music. Own illustration... 9 Fig. 2.3 The usage of fashion brand names in rap songs. Own illustration based on Wilson (2015)... 11 Fig. 2.4 Costs per social media post. Own illustration adapted from Phelan (2016)... 16 Fig. 2.5 Classifying overview on Fashion and Music. Own illustration... 23 Fig. 5.1 Environmental psychology model.... 75 Fig. 5.2 Classic environmental model.... 76 Fig. 6.1 The limbic system adapted from Boeree (2002)... 97 Fig. 6.2 The emotional filter model adapted from Du Plessis (2005)... 99 Fig. 6.3 Touchpoints of sound branding, own illustration based on Groves (2008).... 102 Fig. 6.4 Elements of sound branding, own illustration based on Steiner (2009, p. 40).... 103 Fig. 6.5 Model of multisensory enhancement, own illustration based on Scheier and Held (2007, p. 82).... 105 Fig. 11.1 The digital vortex, own illustration adopted from Global Center for Digital Business Transformation... 203 Fig. 11.2 Revenue of the Global Music Industry until 2015. Own illustration based on the Global Music Report (IFPI 2016)... 205 Fig. 11.3 The governing mechanism of major labels in the music supply chain. Own illustration adopted from Graham et al. (2004)... 206 Fig. 11.4 Market share of music publishers worldwide. Own illustration based on Informa (2016)... 208 Fig. 12.1 Key actors in the process of Crowdfunding ( The Crowdfunding Model 2017).... 226 ix

List of Tables Table 5.1 Nonverbal response towards music... 85 Table 6.1 The 40 bits perception... 98 Table 12.1 Tier reward system of the Indie Rock Band The anatomy of Frank... 237 xi