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Uta Werlich Susanne Germann INRŌ Japanese Belt Ornaments The Trumpf Collection 432 pp., 22 x 29.5 cm, 571 colour ills., 140 signatures represented. Hardcover. English and German. 98 [D] US$ 170 90 ISBN: 978-3-89790-444-6 Japanese culture on a silken thread Inrô small multipartite receptacles for seals and medicaments that were attached to a sash or belt with a toggle (netsuke) came into use in the sixteenth century and remained a notable accessory of Japanese menswear until the end of the nineteenth century. Thus over several centuries the ornately decorated containers attested to their cultivated owner s wealth and taste. The landscapes, animals and plants depicted on the inrô illustrate the progression of the months and the changing face of nature. They corresponded to the great seasonal festivities and recollected flower viewings in spring or mild moon-lit nights in autumn. Frequently they were also used to express good wishes. Furthermore, fi gurative scenes indicated historical events, works of literature and poetry, and the world of myths and legends. The varied scenes were predominantly applied as sprinkle pictures (maki-e), a lacquering technique typical of Japan whereby powdered metal or particles thereof, usually gold or silver, were sprinkled onto a lacquered ground while it Have you seen our online press portal? There you will find the printable covers, images and press releases of our new publications available for download. You can also leaf through our books on our website. We look forward to your visit. www.arnoldsche.com/en/press was still wet. Carefully and lovingly worked in detail, inrô enjoy great popularity among collectors to this day. All 253 inrô at the Linden-Museum Stuttgart hail mostly from the Trumpf Collection and are fully reproduced, described and documented over the 432 pages of this magnifi cent catalogue. Following the inventory catalogue of the Trumpfs signifi cant netsuke collection, published in 2000 (meanwhile out of print), a further, extensively annotated standard work on Japanese belt decoration is now available. The symbolic, often narrative decoration of the inrô imparts valuable insights into Japanese culture. With a dazzling array of representations including landscapes, animals, plants and figurative scenes executed in a variety of lacquering techniques, they have enchanted viewers to the present day, bringing Japanese culture and mythology alive in miniature before their eyes. For more information or free review copies, please do not hesitate to contact Winfried Stürzl arnoldsche ART PUBLISHERS Olgastraße 137, D-70180 Stuttgart Tel. +49 (0)711 64 56 18-14 Fax -79 presse@arnoldsche.com www. arnoldsche.com 1

CONTENTS THE TRUMPF COLLECTION 6 Acknowledgements 7 Inés de Castro Foreword 9 Nicola Leibinger-Kammüller Preface 12 Uta Werlich Inrō Jewellery Accessory, Treasure and Elegant Pastime 21 Complete Catalogue 404 Signatures 412 Glossary of Terms and Names 431 Bibliography SMALL-SCALE EXHIBITION Inro - Japanese Belt Ornaments The Anna and Christian Trumpf Collection Linden-Museum Stuttgart, until 29 January 2017 This small-scale exhibition presents a selection of the Linden Museum's extensive inrô collection from the East Asia Department together with a large array of netsuke. The inrô from the Trumpf Collection were acquired in the 1950s and 1960s and vividly demonstrate the diversity of Japanese lacquerwork. Alongside numerous maki-e works there are also unusual pieces, such as an inrô featuring the decoration of a horse, executed with different inlays and a special surface texture (Cat. No. 201). Another piece (Cat. No. 33), executed in togidashi, bears the signatures of two master lacquerers (Shunshô und Kahei). Furthermore, examples of the range of materials aside from lacquer used in making these sashheld containers are also represented in the collection. Taken as a whole, the Trumpf Collection is eminently suited to revealing the fascinating world of inrô. In 1966, with the Collection Trust, which also includes an exceptional inventory of netsuke, further lacquerworks and tsuba, Christian Trumpf laid the foundation for the present-day East Asia Department of the Linden-Museum Stuttgart. ABOUT THE AUTHORS Dr Uta Werlich studied Sinology, ethnology and comparative literature in Bonn, Berlin and Taiwan. She has worked as an academic assistant at the Museum für Völkerkunde Hamburg and as a curator for East and Central Asia at the Museum der Kulturen Basel. Since 2006 she has led the East Asia Department at the Linden-Museum Stuttgart. Her research interests lie in technical ethnology and issues regarding material culture, in particular here the fields of textiles and East Asian lacquer. Dr Susanne Germann studied textile design (Dipl. Textilgestalter) at the Staatliche Akademie der Bildenden Künste Stuttgart and Japanology, art history and sociology (Dr. phil.) at the universities in Bonn and Tübingen and at Keiô University in Tokyo. Since training at the Linden-Museum Stuttgart, where she carried out preparatory work for the inventory catalogue of netsuke from the Trumpf Collection and contributed to the subsequent exhibition, she now works as a freelance author and curator of the history of Japanese art, culture and science. www. arnoldsche.com 2

01 (Cat. No. 156) Autumn Plants Four parts, external cord runners; red lacquer, gold hira maki-e, mitsuda-e in white, grey, blue and green; nashiji and fundame interior; silvered brass ojime 8.0 x 7.2 x 3.2 cm Latter half of the 18th century 02 (Cat. No. Cat. No. 194) Bird on a blossoming bough Three parts, external cord runners; black lacquer ground with okibirame, gold ground with kirigane, aogai, black, brown and gold relief lacquer, gold hira maki-e, horn painted in colour, silver lugs as cord runners; nashiji and fundame interior 4.7 x 4.5 x 1.9 cm Late 18th century 03 (Cat. No. Cat. No. 244) Bird on a wisteria panicle Drawer inrô, three parts with four drawers, external cord runners; black lacquer ground with nashiji, multi-tone gold hira maki-e and taka maki-e, mother-of-pearl; nashiji and fundame interior; rock-crystal ojime 8.5 x 6.7 x 2.8 cm 18th/ www. arnoldsche.com 3

04 (Cat. No. 187) Bowl with peaches Six parts, external cord runners; black lacquer ground, multi-tone gold and red taka maki-e, kirigane; nashiji and fundame interior; copper ojime with various applied metal designs; netsuke OA 19272 (TN 952) of wood with hira maki-e 7.6 x 6.0 x 2.6 cm Late 18th century 05 (Cat. No. 144) Chinese rose mallow blooms Three parts, external cord runners; black lacquer ground, red, gold, silver and dark brown togidashi; fundame interior; ivory ojime 5.8 x 6.3 x 2.8 cm 18th century 06 (Cat. No. 85) Hagoita Four parts, internal cord runners; black lacquer ground with nashiji, gold togidashi, gold hira maki-e, multitone gold, silver and polychrome taka maki-e, gold foil, kirigane; nashiji and fundame interior; silver ojime with black and marbleised lacquer; netsuke OA 18.884 (TN 213) made of shibuichi with gold, silver and shakudô inlay; capsule of red carved lacquer 8.0 x 6.5 x 1.9 cm www. arnoldsche.com 4

07 (Cat. No. 87) Horses by the water s edge Five parts, internal cord runners; black lacquer ground with nashiji, multi-tone gold and silver hira maki-e and taka maki-e, kirigane; nashiji and fundame interior; ivory ojime; ivory netsuke OA 18.619 (TN 227) 8.5 x 5.2 x 2.0 cm 08 (Cat. No. 288) Net with fish Two parts, external cord runners; tortoiseshell, rattan, gold and polychrome taka maki-e, aogai, pupils of the fi sh eyes made of metal granulation, silver lugs as cord runners; black lacquer and fundame interior; cloisonné ojime 7.1 x 6.8 x 2.8 cm First half of the 18th century 09 (Cat. No. 20) Nô dancer in the role of Kiyohime Five parts, internal cord runners; brown lacquer ground with nashiji, gold, silver and polychrome hira maki-e, kirigane, raden, aogai; nashiji and fundame interior; carnelian ojime; netsuke OA 19.304 (TN 149) of greygreen lacquer with gold hira maki-e and coral 8.8 x 5.1 x 1.8 cm www. arnoldsche.com 5

10 (Cat. No. 245) Octopus with anchor and fish basket Drawer inrô, two parts with fi ve drawers, internal cord runners; bamboo, applied decoration in bone, metal and wood; undecorated interior; ojime of carved fruit stone 8.0 x 4.9 x 1.9 cm 11 (Cat. No. 219) Phoenix Bird Tower Four parts, external cord runners; red lacquer ground, gold and black hira maki-e, aogai, kirigane; red and black lacquer interior; agate ojime; boxwood netsuke OA 19.364 (TN 997) 16.0 x 12.7 x 6.3 cm 12-1, 12-2 (Cat. No. 44) Shôki and oni (front and back) Five parts, external cord runners; brown lacquer ground, gold hira maki-e, gold and polychrome taka maki-e, kirigane, lead alloy and aogai; nashiji and fundame interior; yellow glass ojime; netsuke (OA 19.372) carved of staghorn 7.5 x 6.7 x 2.1 cm Early 18th century www. arnoldsche.com 6

13-1, 13-2 (Cat. No. 151) Sleeping herdsman and resting buffalo (front and back) Five parts, external cord runnters; gold ground, gold and polychrome togidashi; black lacquer and fundame interior; turquoise-coloured glass ojime; boxwood netsuke OA 19.180 (TN 902) 7.9 x 6.5 x 2.4 cm Late 18th/early 14 (Cat. No. 118) Snow-covered pine branches Four parts, external cord runners; stoneware with crackle glaze, underglaze and overglaze decoration; undecorated interior; stoneware ojime; netsuke OA 19.288 (TN 865) 7.9 x 6.8 x 2.3 cm Latter half of the 15 (Cat. No. 96) Stags Five parts, internal cord runners; blue-and-white porcelain; undecorated interior; gold lacquer ojime; netsuke OA 19.332 (TI 37) in blue-and-white porcelain 9.3 x 4.9 x 2.8 cm Mid- www. arnoldsche.com 7

16 (Cat. No. 135) White hunting falcon Six parts, external cord runners; black lacquer ground with nashiji, gold ground, gold, silver and red taka maki-e, raden; nashiji and fundame interior; agate ojime 9.3 x 5.0 x 3.2 cm 17 (Cat. No. 147) Yabukôji plant Four parts, internal cord runners; shitan nuri, multi-tone gold and polychrome taka maki-e, aogai, kirigane; nashiji and fundame interior; ojime of gold lacquer with ant decoration in black lacquer; netsuke OA 19.306 (TN 911) of shitan wood with gold hira maki-e and various kinds of inlay 7.6 x 7.6 x 2.5 cm Latter half of the www. arnoldsche.com 8