EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW WITH MICHAEL WAINWRIGHT B&O PLAY PARTNER WITH YSL KELLY HOPPEN MBE ON AFFORDABLE LUXURY NOBU ATLANTA TO OPEN CAROLINE NEVILLE TALKS BEAUTY BRAND ACQUISITION MONICA VINADER OPENS NEW LONDON STORE JONATHAN SIBONI DEFINES DATA AS THE NEW KNOWLEDGE 202 luxury briefing
CONTENTS Features 4 Insight Sir Eric Peacock talks to MICHAEL WAINWRIGHT, Managing Director of Boodles, about the British jewellery brand s humble beginnings and its dazzling future. 14 Industry Reports 10 Jewellery + Watches 13 Design + Interiors 18 Hospitality 20 Travel + Aviation 28 Food + Drink Regulars 2 Events Calendar 32 Luxury Retail Property News New York & London 34 Brand Matters Georgia Fendley 35 Q&A JUSTIN PACKSHAW, entrepreneur, philanthropist, adventurer and Chief Executive Officer of De Roemer Luxury Focus Harriet Hirschler meets award-winning interior designer, KELLY HOPPEN MBE to talk about her latest affordable luxury venture and her iconic style. 22 Limited Editions French interior design house, Liaigre is moving in a new direction under the leadership of its recently appointed President CHRISTOPHE CAILLAUD, discovers Sophie Cecil. Columns 11 Post-Luxury LUCIA VAN DER POST discusses why the smart brands in luxury put their craftspeople first. 12 Beauty Insight CAROLINE NEVILLE, President of CEW in the UK, shares her insights on the latest brand acquisitions in the beauty industry. 21 Wealth Report ELEESA DADIANI, Founder of Dadiani Fine Art and Dadiani Syndicate, explains how the cryptocurrency is affording new opportunities. 27 Luxury Futures Founder of Luxurynsight, JONATHAN SIBONI, and Co-Founder and Artistic Director of centdegrés, ELIE PAPIERNIK, discuss the creative side of data. 30 Digital Thinker Alistair Crane meets JOSEPH MCKENZIE, Chief Executive Officer and Co-Founder of pre-owned luxury goods platform Xupes. 1
Issue 202 Luxury Briefing CONTRIBUTORS luxury briefing Caroline Neville Caroline Neville is the founder and Chairwoman of Neville McCarthy. She is a highly respected leader in the communications industry, with more than 60 years experience, and is also President of the UK beauty industry s leading business organisation, Cosmetic Executive Women (UK). Ms Neville is a Freeman of the City of London and a member of the Worshipful Company of Framework Knitters. Her experience covers dozens of marquee brands in fashion, travel, beauty, luxury goods and accessories. Faith Hope Consolo Revered worldwide as the Queen of Retail, Faith Hope Consolo s prognostications on shopping and consumption are heeded by world-class designers, mass retailers, start-up boutiques, property owners and municipalities all around the world. Faith has her finger on the pulse of the retail scene in New York, and the world s greatest shopping centres and high streets. Alistair Crane Alistair Crane is Chief Executive Officer (CEO) of Hero, the industry-leading, mobile-first technology powering live shopping for retailers. Prior to Hero, Alistair launched Grapple as CEO and Co-Founder in 2009, and grew the business from a start-up to a success story, securing a successful exit in September 2013 to Monitise Plc. He joined Monitise Plc as European President before progressing to Chief Sales Officer to run the US operation. Georgia Fendley Georgia Fendley has spent a career immersed in luxury brands as a designer, art director, brand strategist, branding agency owner, industry mentor and, of course, savvy consumer. As Brand Director of Mulberry (2008-2012), Georgia helped to steer the company through its greatest period of financial and geographical growth. She is now Founder and Creative Director of Construct and Co-Founder of Hill & Friends. Sir Eric Peacock Leading companies since 2010, Sir Eric Peacock has wide-ranging experience in financial services, consumer goods and industry supply chain, and he is an active board member for numerous enterprises. Eric has grown, sold and acquired businesses, reflecting his deep-rooted interests in people development, culture and engagement. Jonathan Siboni Lucia van der Post Lucia van der Post has dispensed advice on style and living for more than three decades. She is best known for her work at the Financial Times, where she launched How To Spend It magazine, and is still an associate editor. Lucia also writes on luxury travel for a wide range of other publications. Keith Wilson Keith Wilson is one of the founding directors of Wilson McHardy, a real-estate boutique agency providing investment, development and leasing advice to key clients in the luxury market. Responsible for many headline projects in London, Keith has provided strategic advice for the Grosvenor Estate, Dunhill, Chanel, Richemont and Groupe Arnault, among others. Jonathan founded Luxurynsight in 2011 as the first data intelligence platform focused on the luxury industry. Together with an advisory board from LVMH, Richemont, Hermès, Chanel and L Oréal, among others, Luxurynsight has developed unique technologies to provide brands with the world s largest data and insights platform on the luxury business. FMS Global Media Editorial: Sophie Cecil, Imogen Smith, Harriet Linder Design: Katie Smith, Lauren Robertson Subscription Manager: information@luxury-briefing.com 3
Luxury Briefing Issue 202 Retail Property NEW YORK On Madison Avenue, famed Bulgari raised the curtain US leather goods company on its most important store, Ghurka launched its flagship Fifth Avenue on the south-west boutique at 69th Street, number corner at 57th Street. Kate Spade 831. The British designer and has opened the doors of its outerwear apparel brand newest location in Rockefeller Mackintosh has finally opened Plaza at 49th Street, offering a its first stateside shop, mixing selection of exclusives designed modern technology with specifically for this site. traditional techniques to create On the Upper East Side, the ultimate Mac at 833 Madison cult fashion brand, AYR has Avenue. Fashionphile, the most secured its fourth location; trusted source in the secondary a short-term boutique at market for luxury handbags, 958 Lexington Avenue. came to 958 Madison Avenue. Old Navy is heading to the Menswear brand The Tie Bar base of an upcoming 18-story went from pop-up store to permanent at 400 Madison Avenue. condominium on East 86th Street and Lexington Avenue. Volez, Voguez, Voyagez, Louis Vuitton s landmark exhibition Iconic clothing and Ulta Beauty opened the eagerly accessories retailer Paul Stuart anticipated temple of beauty at 276 Lafayette Street. Union Square store to has unveiled its revamped at 188 East 86th Street. French-Japanese record 830 Broadway between New York store at 45th Street In Herald Square, label and fashion imprint, East 12th and East 13th Streets. with a new first floor and Target Herald Square, Maison Kitsuné is now Giorgio Armani Beauty is mezzanine featuring an just west of the 34th Street at 248 Lafayette Street. bringing its pop-up Armani Box expanded shoe department, and Broadway intersection, Santino LoConte brought Reign, concept to 490 Broadway. a dedicated women s boutique 112 West 34th Street, had an his new multi-brand menswear In the Financial District, shearling and the newest location of the over-the-top opening. This is shop to 807 Washington Street, brand UGG is heading downtown renowned New York City men s one of Target s small-format featuring a wide variety of to Westfield World Trade Center, hairdresser Fleischman Salon. stores with 50,000 sq ft of space, Japanese, Italian, American and 185 Greenwich Street. On Fifth Avenue, iconic and it is the company s third other European brands, including menswear brand Corneliani store in Manhattan and 17th Balmain, Hender Scheme, IRO, NYC IS A POP-UP PARADISE launched its exclusive in New York City. Juun.J, Mykita x Maison Margiela, High-end technical apparel brand made-to-measure service at In Soho, Gucci is to take up Our Legacy, Public School, Aether Apparel is offering a Saks Fifth Avenue s flagship. 10,700 square feet of ground-floor Rick Owens, Suicoke, unique retail experience at Peach & Lily has expanded block through retail space at Tim Coppens and Undercover. its fifth location, 1082 Madison into Bergdorf Goodman, 745 Fifth 375 West Broadway. Rebag.com, Brett Johnson s luxury Avenue. Rigby & Peller, Avenue, bringing five South Korean a seller and re-seller of luxury Italian-made menswear is at lingerie stylists from London, beauty lines to the shop. accessories, will officially 109 Mercer Street. Ricky s NYC, at 1051 Third Avenue. launch its first concept beauty outpost is to relocate its Mansur Gavriel s millennial store at 390 West Broadway. pink dream is celebrating the Athletic and footwear brand Asics holidays at 620 Madison Avenue. will have its new Asics Tiger store Glow Recipe is coming to Faith Hope Consolo, Chairperson of the Retail Group Douglas Elliman Real Estate Tel: 001 212 418 2020 E: fconsolo@elliman.com 32
Issue 202 Luxury Briefing LONDON Fifth Avenue at Henri Bendel as the brand s third bricks-andmortar retail space. The space will serve as the official launch of its Wayskin Skin Analyzer tool. Tiffany & Co is opening two concept boutiques, one in Grand Central Terminal and the other in the Rockefeller Center. FAO Schwarz, one of the most iconic toy brands, is back at Bergdorf Goodman. Premium men s underwear brand Tommy John is partnering While the principal landlord in the area has held back leasing spaces within the immediate vicinity of the new Chanel boutique, many are now being taken up in anticipation of other openings As the new West End Company sponsored street-scaping works continue on Bond Street, visitors can look forward to a wave of openings during late 2017 and throughout 2018. On Old Bond Street, Dolce & Gabbana (6/8) will have reopened in time for this publication, extending the store to almost 10,000 sq ft. On New Bond Street, Alaïa (139) will make its welcome, if not unexpected, opening on Bond transactions. Jim Thompson, the brand established by US businessman as the Thai Silk Company in Bangkok in 1948, have decided not to lease space in Brompton Cross and it s a similar fate for Dean & Deluca in Mount Street. Following the appointment of the new Global President of the NYC-based deli chain, Dean & Deluca has shifted its strategy into the US. On Sloane Street, Moncler has secured numbers 181/182, with Macy s Herald Square. Street for spring 2018, closely relocating from its store The Sharper Image has opened followed by Pomellato (31) in into the former Fendi site, its first retail space in nearly April/May 2018. Back on Old Bond which will now move across a decade in a two-level space at Street, Alexander McQueen (27) the road to 26/27 Sloane Street 4 Times Square. New York-based is announced as the Kering Group (formerly Marni). David Donahue is making its brand secure the former DKNY As Chanel plan the opening of first foray into the retail arena store, opening June 2018. 122 Draycott Avenue (10,000 sq ft) at Rothmans in Union Square. Chopard and Hublot are other brands considering securing Unique Spanish jewellery about to take possession of space with a London SW address designer UNOde50 continues their new boutiques at 13 and will no doubt extend the scope its international expansion 14 New Bond Street, respectively, into Brompton Cross. While the with a new store at 123 Prince directly opposite Asprey. principal landlord in the area has Street. Italian made-to-measure The New Bond Street launch held back leasing spaces within sportswear menswear label dates for Delvaux (47/48), the immediate vicinity of the new Stòffa will temporarily sit at Givenchy (168) and Tasaki (170) Chanel boutique, many are now 251 Elizabeth Street. Bershka, are still to be confirmed. being taken up in anticipation the Inditex Group s youth Patiently awaited is the identity of other openings, including brand, is heading to the US for of the LVMH Group brands Daylesford, Sophia Webster the first time, at 580 Broadway. selected for 39 and 41 New Bond and Golden Goose. Sophia Webster is set to Street, although the smart money Rentals and key money open Webster Wonderland at is now on Loewe and Céline premiums remain at the highest 79 Greene Street. Valentino after these large stores have been in Bond Street, but beyond the VLTN has a temporary spot occupied by Louis Vuitton as main thoroughfare are a number at 121 Spring Street. And the the Maison opposite Chanel of interesting opportunities landmark exhibition Volez, and Dior is refurbished. available, some at unprecedented Voguez, Voyagez Louis Vuitton, Unfortunately, other landlords low-key money premium levels or which traces the luxury brand s have been less successful in with the benefit of a significant history, is now at 86 Trinity Place. converting proposed leasing rent-free period. Keith Wilson, Wilson McHardy Tel: +44 (0) 207 439 1666 E: keith@wilsonmchardy.com 33