Issue #38 November 18 th 2015 Giuliana Storino, Tessuto stellare (Stellar fabric), soil deposited on paper, 35x25 cm, 2014 The winner of the Vanni's competition Works will be displayed on November 19th in the Turin space of the brand pg. 3 Reinterpretation of "Il bacio" (Francesco Hayez) by Chris Rellas #Guccigram's art pg. 5 Colour as the key to success Exclusive interview with Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director of Pantone pg. 2
Colour as the key to success Pantone, the highest authority on colour, tells its story to WMIDO through the words of its Executive Director, Leatrice Eiseman. How does the Color of the Year come to be? The color of the year selection requires careful consideration and, to arrive at the selection, Pantone quite literally combs the world looking for color influences. This can include the fashion and entertainment industries including films that are in production, the world of art, popular travel destinations and other socio-economic conditions. Influences may also stem from technology, the availability of new textures and effects that impact color, and even upcoming sports events that capture worldwide attention. When do you start working on the colours trends? Led by me, we have of a team of global color experts that are involved in the trend forecasting process, which begins over 24 months prior. We start looking for clues early in the year before, but it is about four months prior to the announcement when we start our discussions and review the research that has been gathered by the Pantone team. Where and how should decisions about color palette occur in the design process? Color palettes should be one of the first considerations in making choices in product development. But a time frame has also be determined by the amount of lead time is necessary in creating a product. Some products take longer to produce than others, however, color should a prime consideration early on in the process as it is so critical to the success of a product. Which industry fields are more influenced by your choises/trends indications? Certainly fashion and cosmetics are heavily influenced, however, there is hardly an industry today that is not impacted by color. Products for home furnishings and/ or the ambiance created is heavily influenced by color and the most everyday products, such as housewares must stay on top of trends so they can be competitive and relevant in their markets. Even products such as headphones or other electronic and/or digital equipment is appearing in more color, so it behooves all industries to stay apprised of how to use color effectively. At Pantone, we are very conscious of the impact that color has and we use it very thoughtfully whenever we consult on color, no matter what the industry might be. world weekly wonders WMIDO 2
Vanni s commitment to art continues From 5 through 8 November 2015, works by the winners and finalists of the international Autofocus competition sponsored by Vanni were displayed during The Others, the event dedicated to emerging art and research and staged in the ex Le Nuove prison, Turin. This year the brand offered again the Autofocus per la fotografia (Autofocus for photography) award for the project displayed in The Others that best captures the complexity of visual communication. The main event will take place on 19 November with the inauguration of the solo exhibition by Giuliana Storino (prize for the exhibition project) and the presentation of Francesca Arri s site-specific performance in the Vanni space in Turin. Francesa Arri, La danza della locusta (The dance of the locust), performance, 2014 Claudio Gottardi honored with the Ace Leadership Award 2015 Italia Independent hops into the saddle with Ducati Italia Independent and Ducati Motor Holdings have signed a three-year agreement for the joint development of products in their respective sectors of excellence. The subject of the partnership is Scrambler, the brand created to interpret the values of the iconic motorbike of the '70s that was created in the United States and immediately met with international fame. To celebrate this agreement and identify future products, a special logo was designed that symbolises the union of the two diverse spirits that have inspired the project. The product developed under the agreement will be unveiled in Miami in December during an event staged as part of Art Basel. The results of the Sight Tour 2015 From left: Joelle Grunberg, Ceo Lacoste North America - Rob Lynch, Member of the VSP Council - Ivanka Trump, Real Estate Developer and Entrepreneur - Claudio Gottardi - Ulrich Grimm, Creative Director Calvin Klein At the 19th annual Accessories Council Excellence Awards (ACE Awards) Claudio Gottardi, President and Ceo of Marchon Eyewear, received the Ace Leadership Award 2015. Additional honorees included: Ivanka Trump with the Breakthrough Award, John Varvatos with the Designer of the Year Award, and Taraji P. Henson with the Influencer Award for the hit TV show Empire. Honorees were selected for making significant contributions to furthering the awareness and use of accessories and were nominated and voted upon by their peers in the accessory industry, retailers, the Accessories Council Board of Directors and the fashion press. The Sight Tour, an awareness-raising initiative promoted in Italy with the aid of Assogruppi Ottica, Federottica and Vision+Onlus and supported by Mido, took place in October. It stretched over 19 days with eight stops covering Puglia, Basilicata, Campania and Sicily and 2,058 people tested. Data collected on the local market are cause of concern: more than 60% of the population is not regularly tested or present symptoms that could suggest problems requiring urgent clinical analysis. The Sight Tour confirmed these data: indeed, more than 100 of the total examined people presented potential signs of eye-related pathologies requiring urgent specialist attention. world weekly wonders WMIDO 3
Fedon doubles profit in the third quarter The Board of Directors of Giorgio Fedon & Figli has approved the Consolidated Interim Report as at 30 September 2015. Revenue was reported at 53.4 million euro, an increase of 14.3% compared to 30 September 2014, due to improvement in 3 business areas: OEM (optic area manufacturers), optic and leather goods wholesale and direct retail though the single-brand stores. Revenue from OEM clients that includes sales to eyewear manufacturers registered an increase of 12.7% due to new product lines and the acquisition of new clients in Italy and Spain. Wholesale revenue for optic stores and the leather goods distribution network grew by 11.3%. Of particular significance is the growth of turnover from direct retail (Fedon single-brand stores), equal to 28.3% on a likefor-like basis and 66.5% including sales derived from the new opening of the single-brand Fedon 1919 stores. The net result is equal to 1 million euro, more than double that as at 30 September 2014. Safilo results for the first nine months of 2015 In the first nine months of 2015, net sales for the Safilo Group grew by 10.6% at current exchange rate and at 1.0% at constant exchange rates compared to the same period for the previous year. Net sales in the third quarter grew by 9.0% at current exchange rates and 0.9% at constant exchange rates compared to the third quarter of 2014, confirming the very sound performance in Europe, North America and the new Middle East area. Results were less positive for the Asian and Brazilian markets. In the first nine months of 2015, gross profit grew by 6.8%, with a gross margin equal to 60.2% of revenue. In the third quarter, gross profit grew by 6.6%, with the gross margin decreasing to 58.8% of revenue, influenced by the negative impact of exchange rates. In the first nine months, Safilo recorded a Free Cash Flow of 66.8 million euro, reducing net debt below 100 million euro, to 97.1 million euro, for the first time. New CEO for Ottica Avanzi Changes in Italy for GrandVision, the group operating in 43 different countries with 5,800 stores and online services. In Italy it bought Ottica Avanzi in 1999 and the Randazzo Group, consisting of Optissimo and Corner Optique franchises, in December 2014. The new corporate structure sees Luca Sacilotto appointed as CEO of Avanzi Holding, the company that manages the four brands. Mr. Sacilotto, head of the Randazzo Group since 2008, will take on this new challenge by developing the brands success stories and helping the company pursue commercial balance. Christophe Reale, former CEO of Avanzi, has taken on the role of International Project Director. Callisto Fedon Luca Sacilotto Turn over design by Mario Milana Enrico Acciai CEO Gas Gianni Crespi CEO Basicnet Nathan Kerzner Vice President of Global Sales Randolph Engineering James Long Creative Director Iceberg Man Eric Shaughnessy Senior Vice President of Sales Eyeking Franco Spalla Vice President Basicnet Johnny Vu Event Sales Director for North America Rudy Project world weekly wonders WMIDO 4
Design, fashion & lifestyle The warmth of the sun #GucciGram: fashion meets art on Instagram #GucciGram is a virtual workshop where fashion meets art. Visit the website and the Instagram profile of the Tuscan maison to admire the most famous works of art interpreted by contemporary illustrators and artists. Amongst the images created as part of #GucciGram of special note are the collage works by Kalen Hollomon, Amalia Ulman, and the Spanish illustrator Ignasi Monreale. Then there is the reinterpretation of "Il bacio" (Francesco Hayez) by Chris Rellas in which a Gucci bag is inserted between the two lovers, whilst The Most Famous Artist collective has clothed the couple in Gucci jackets in the "American Gothic" painting by Grant Wood. Camilla Filippi reinterprets René Magritte Passione (passion) is the name of the new 2016 Spring/Summer collection by Mavì Taten. This season the natural fabrics that are typical of this brand have a special texture; they are treated under the sun using reed panels. Linen and cotton are left to burn in the sun to create the visionary design of Vittoria Formuso who developed the reed panels. With the changing of the seasons so changes the fabric exposure time: twenty days, then two months and finally three months under the sun. Ceramic is also brought to life through heat: a ceramic process that melts natural materials and elements was used to create the red hearts in the photo shoots. The art of origami Paul Smith designs a collection for Caran d'ache Caran d Ache has created a new 849 Paul Smith collection, in the original slim pack with 10 exclusive colours by the famous English designer. Paul Smith, who has used the 849 for many years, shares two important values with Caran d Ache: quality manufacture and modernity in design and choice of colours. To celebrate 100 years of Caran d Ache (1915-2015), the company has created 100 colours chosen from the palette of its fashion shows - and 10 of these will make 849 Paul Smith an original and highly cool gift item. The new 849 Paul Smith collection by Caran d Ache is available in specialist writing goods stores, newsagents and trend-setting points of sale. Ines Della Rovere offers a creative and fantastic approach inspired by the world of nature s colours and shapes. Flowers and leaves with intense, pure and delicate shades are expressed in geometrical shapes and origami. The collection features elegant footwear, just like perfect fruit caressed by a dewdrop, linked by the fil rouge of crystal. Ines Della Rovere is a brand developed from the genius of Valeria Lazzaroli to offer a vehicle to artisans and high-profile footwear workshops so that they can share their techniques and knowledge of materials. The brand is licenced to Sales Strategies, a company established to support the internationalisation of small and medium-sized, all-italian manufacturing businesses. Editorial Director: Francesco Gili MIDO Srl Unipersonale Via Petitti, 16-20149 Milano (Italy) Phone +39 02 32673673 P. Iva IT 07164050150 Cod. Fiscale e n. Iscr. Ufficio Imprese di Milano 07164050150 Cap. soc. 120.000,00 i.v. R.e.a. 1710133 Company subject to the direction and the coordination of Anfao - Associazione Nazionale Fabbricanti Articoli Ottici WMido is published in cooperation with Publicomm srl Via Quadrio 20/40-20154 Milano (Italy) P. Iva 02030290999 email: redazione@wmido.com world weekly wonders WMIDO 5