STABLE FORMULATION OF FACIAL CLEANSER BASED ON VIRGIN COCONUT OIL NOR SHALEHA BINTI KUNYA ALABI

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i STABLE FORMULATION OF FACIAL CLEANSER BASED ON VIRGIN COCONUT OIL NOR SHALEHA BINTI KUNYA ALABI A final year research thesis submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the award of the degree of Bachelor of Chemical Engineering (Bioprocess) Faculty of Chemical and Natural Resource Engineering Universiti Teknologi Malaysia JUNE, 2013

vi ABSTRACT This study was conducted to determine the stability of facial cleanser based on virgin coconut oil. The parameters evaluated were the ph, viscosity, sensory score, transepidermal water loss, elasticity and moisture of the skin. The results of the stability test indicated samples containing virgin coconut oil extract are stable in the normal ph. The results for the sensory test showed that sample with the highest percentage of virgin coconut oil extract is the most acceptable due to its pleasant odour, moistness, smoothness and also colour. For the skin test, the sample with high virgin coconut oil result in the highest skin moisturizing effect and elasticity. The results indicate there was an increased in the skin barrier s moisture content and skin elasticity. The ph of the skin are also in the range of normal physiological skin condition (4.5-5.5)...

vii ABSTRAK Kajian ini dijalankan untuk menentukan kestabilan pencuci muka berasaskan minyak kelapa dara. Parameter dinilai adalah ph, kelikatan, skor deria, kehilangan air transepidermis, keanjalan dan kelembapan kulit. Keputusan ujian kestabilan menunjukkan sampel yang mengandungi ekstrak dara minyak kelapa adalah stabil pada ph yang normal. Keputusan bagi ujian deria menunjukkan sampel yang mempunyai peratusan tinggi dara ekstrak minyak kelapa adalah yang paling boleh diterima kerana bau yang menyenangkan, moistness, kelancaran dan juga warna. Untuk ujian kulit, sampel yang tinggi kelapa dara hasil minyak di tertinggi kesan pelembab kulit dan keanjalan. Hasil kajian menunjukkan terdapat telah peningkatan dalam kandungan kelembapan halangan kulit dan keanjalan kulit. PH kulit juga dalam julat normal keadaan kulit fisiologi (4.5-5.5)..

viii TABLE OF CONTENTS CHAPTER TITLE PAGE TITLE PAGE i ACKNOWLEDGEMENT Ii ABSTRACT iii ABSTRAK iv TABLE OF CONTENTS v LIST OF TABLE viii LIST OF FIGURE xiii LIST OF ABBREVIATION xiv 1 INTRODUCTION 1.1Background of Study 1 1.2 Problem Statement 3 1.3 Objective 4 1.4 Scope of Study 4

ix 2 LITERATURE REVIEW 2.1 Virgin Coconut Oil 5 2.2 Facial cleanser extract of virgin coconut oil overview 6 2.2.1 Ingredients 6 2.3 Analysis of Facial cleanser of Virgin Coconut Oil 14 2.3.1 Skin Test 14 2.3.2 Sensory Test 14 3 METHODOLOGY 3.1 Cream Formulation 16 3.2 Preliminary Phases 17 3.2.1 Determination of the Range of factors 17 3.2.2 Design of Experiments (DOE) 17 3.3 Experimental Procedure 19 3.4 Method for Sample Analysis 24 3.4.1 Stability Testing 24 3.4.2 Sensory Test 25 3.4.3 Skin Test 26 3.5 Data Analysis 27 3.5.1 Optimization 27 3.5.2 Verification 27 4 RESULT 4.1 Plant-Derive Formulation 28 4.1.1 Preliminary Test 31 4.2 Analysis of Variance (ANOVA) 33 4.3 The Optimization Experiment 39 4.3 Verification Phase 42

x 4.4 Sensory Evaluation Test 43 4.5 Stability Tests 49 4.6 Skin Test 56 5 CONCLUSION 64 REFERENCES 67 APPENDICES 71

67 REFERENCES A. Shai, H.I. Maibach, R. Baran, Handbook of cosmetic skin care, Martin Dunitz, London, 2001. Asian and Pacific Coconut Community (APCC). Internet: Standard for Virgin Coconut Oil (2003). Download from http://www.apccsec.org/document/vco- STANDARDS/ on 23/12/2012. Baran, R. and Maibach, H. Textbook if cosmetics dermatology, second edition. Martin Dunitz Ltd. Benett W. (1983). Benett s Cosmetic Formulary, II Edition Chemical Publishing Company, New York, pages 90-100. Bergsson, G., Arnfinnsson, J., Karlsson, S. S. M., SteingrioMsson, O., & Thormar, H. (1998). In vitro inactivation of Chlamydia trachomatis by fatty acids and monoglycerides. Antimicrobial Agents and Chemotherapy, 42(9), 2290 2294. "Bubbles, Bubbles, Everywhere, But Not a Drop to Drink". The Lipid Chronicles. Retrieved 08/01/2012. Bureau of Product Standards (BPS). (2004). Philippine National Standards: Virgin coconut oil. Philippines: Department of Trade and Industry.

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69 Lawless, H. T., & Heymann, H. (1999). Sensory evaluation of food. Gaithersburg, MD: Aspen Publishers. L. Iida (1992). Recent trend of development of lipstick viewed from the point of touch and make-up effect, Fragrance J., 20, 22-28. Lissant, K.J., (1974). Emulsion and emulsion technology edited by Kenneth J.LissNT. New York:Marcel Dekker. Miller, D.J., Henning, T., Grunbien, W. (2001). Phase inversion of w/o emulsion by adding hydrophilic surfactant-a technique for making cosmetics products. Colloid and Surfaces. A: Physicochemical and Engineering Aspect 183-185, 681-688. Nevin, KG., Rajamohan, T. Effect of topical application of virgin coconut oil on skin components and antioxidant status during dermal wound healing in young rats. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology. 2010;23(6):290-7. Epub 2010 Jun 3. Proksch, E., Holst, R.F., Jensen, J.M. (2006). Skin barrier function, epidermal proliferation and differentiation in Eczema. Journal of Dermatologist Sience. 43:159-169. Ramalho, A., Silva, C.L., Pais, A.A.C.C and Sousa, J.J.S. (2007). In vitro friction study of human skin: Influence of moisturizer on Different anatomical sites. Wear. Rosenthal, A., Pyle, D. L., & Niranjan, K. (1996). Aqueous and enzymatic processes for edible oil extraction. Enzyme and Microbial Technology, 19, 402e420 Woodroof JG (1979) Coconuts: production, processing, products, 2nd edn. AVI, Westport Wortel, V.A.L., & Wiechers, J.W(2000). Skin Sensory Performance of Individual Personal care ingredients and marketed Personal care Products. Food Quality Preference. 11:121-112.