- WORKBOOK Hairstyling & Aesthetics Ms. Navas Rev: May 2011 Name:
THIS PAGE IS INTENTIONALLY BLANK Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 2
Table of Contents The Psychology of Makeup... 6 Activity: Face Shadowing... 8 Eyes... 9 Small eyes:... 9 Prominent eyes:... 9 Round eyes:... 10 Deep-set eyes:... 10 Oriental eyes:... 10 Almond eyes:... 10 Close-set eyes:... 10 Wide-set eyes:... 10 Makeup Tools... 12 Makeup Tips - Advice and Articles... 15 Foundation... 15 Choosing foundation type... 15 Types of Foundations... 15 HOW TO APPLY FOUNDATION... 16 HOW TO BUY FOUNDATION... 16 Choose Best Makeup Concealer... 18 HOW TO APPLY CONCEALERS... 19 Powder Makeup - Tips on how to apply powder... 19 How to Apply Blush... 19 Tips for applying blusher... 20 Powder Blush... 20 Cream Blusher... 20 Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 3
Colour Choice for Blusher... 21 Mascara Application and applying makeup... 21 Mascara... 21 How to Apply Mascara... 21 Tips for applying eye mascara... 21 Selection of eyeliner shades... 22 How to remove eye mascara... 22 Eyeliner... 23 Straight Eye Liner:... 23 How to Apply Eye shadow, Easy steps for Applying Eyeshadows and Application Tips... 24 How to Apply Eyeshadow... 24 Applying Eyeshadow Tip submitted by Pav... 24 Eye Shadow Kit and Colour Choice... 24 Powder and Cream Eyeshadows... 25 Stick Shadows and Liquid Eye Shadow... 25 Lipstick Applying makeup tips - How to Apply Lipstick... 26 How to Apply Lipstick... 26 Makeup kit essentials for applying lipstick properly... 27 Lipstick Tips... 27 Makeup Tips... 33 General Guidelines... 35 SPECIAL OCCASION MAKEUP... 35 CORRECTIVE MAKEUP... 35 ANALYZING FEATURES AND FACE SHAPE... 35 WARM AND COOL COLORS... 35 Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 4
SELECTING MAKEUP COLOR... 36 COLOR FOR EYES... 36 CHEEK AND LIP COLOR... 36 HAIR COLOR and EYE COLOR... 36 COLOR SELECTION STEPS... 36 Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 5
The Psychology of Makeup The Psychology of Makeup Jake Surette Beauty may only be skin deep, but your face plays a huge role in the first impression you make. What's your kisser saying about you? Have you ever taken note of how people are reacting to your face when you are talking? Whether you are presenting in a business meeting or meeting your boyfriend's family, everything that's on your face is affecting everyone around you. Think about it: How do you react when looking at someone's brow's that are shaped like sperm? Tacky. How do you judge that woman in power who has a dark brown lip liner and a really light lipstick? Whore slept her way up. Poor things. In reality, they probably just haven't updated their makeup routine in 20 (plus) years. They probably have no idea why they're being judged so harshly and, perhaps, they are crying their mascara off in their pillows at night. Case in point: Three years ago, I was working for a major fashion house that has a cosmetic subside. I had to do a makeup event for Women in Business within the business district of Toronto. I was genuinely shocked to see how many women were emulating Dynasty's "Alexis" alone. This was not just your run of the mill, Melanie-Griffith-in-Working Girl moment. No. These were women of power. That said, let us review the psychology of how makeup, today, should be worn. Business presentation Eyes - Keep them soft. If you are doing a presentation - regardless of how large the group is - the focus must be on your lip. Lips - Focus, focus, focus. If you aren't a deep lip girl, make sure to - at the very least - have them lined and either use a medium toned lip colour or medium toned lip gloss. As your audience is listening to you, they will focus on your lip and get much more out of your presentation. Business audience Eyes - Now is the time to focus on your eyes. You want your presenter to know that you are taking everything in, so highlight the lid, intensify the crease and pile on the mascara. Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 6
Lips - Soft. A light lip gloss or sheer lipstick is the key. You're - hopefully - not talking out of turn in this presentation; you certainly don't want a focus on your mouth. Pleasure Eyes - It's always great to do up your eyes a la classy porn star. A deep smoky eye or colourful eye is fun. Lips - Gloss them up. Eyes - A casual weekend family gathering should have your makeup kept crisp and clean. A soft, lined eye with a pop of sheer colour on the lid and natural mascara is your best bet. Lips - Again, keep them soft. This is a guideline. All in all, stay true to your personality when it comes to how you make yourself up. Just be open to changing it up. Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 7
Activity: Face Shadowing Place the dark and light shadowing to give the illusion of the ideal face.
Eyes Eyes are the focal point of the face. This means that eye make-up mistakes are very noticeable, so be sure that your techniques and colors are the most flattering to the eye shape and color. The lighter iris, the lighter your touch should be when applying color. The trick is to draw the attention to the eyes, not the make-up. Use color, intensity, and texture to create illusions of depth and size, perhaps changing the eye shape altogether! Again, remember the principle of light and dark. Small eyes: Light and shine.bring forth and plump Dark and matte shades.push back and shrink Lengthen them by applying a soft eye pencil to the outer third of the bottom lid extending outward. Use a short stroke to join this line to the upper lash line, and then smudge. Use light colors and iridescent shadows on the lid for an eye-opening effect. Highlight with a frosted shadow under the brow for evening sparkle. Curl the lashes before applying mascara to open eyes even more. Try lining the inside of the lower lid with a soft white pencil to really open them. Prominent eyes: Use a matte shadow on the lid and blend it into the crease. Apply a darker shade to the outer half of the lid, right over the first shade, and blend so that the gradation looks natural. Line the outer half of the eye with a soft eye pencil and smudge, drawing the line outward on both top and bottom. Highlight under the brow with a light or frosted shade. For a sultry look, line the inner rim of the eye with a soft eye pencil. Grey, navy, plum, and black are excellent depending on the eye color, but there are many more. Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 9
Round eyes: Elongate the eyes by concentrating the deepest shades of the outer portion of the lid, extending them to a soft point. Lengthen the eyes even more by outlining the outer third of both top and bottom with a soft eye pencil, having the point meet beyond the outer corner of the eye. Smudge for a softer effect. Narrow the eyes by lining the inner rim with a soft eye pencil. Deep-set eyes: Use light or frosted shades on the lid. Apply a darker shade above the crease to recess this area. Try a little shadow or eye pencil on the outer half of the bottom lid to balance the depth of the eyes. Oriental eyes: Divide the area beneath the brow in half vertically. Use a lighter shade on the inner half, and a darker shade on the outer half, and blend together. Apply a highlighter under brown and blend. Almond eyes: Unless the eyes are too close or too far apart, you don t have to worry about corrective techniques. Choose colors that complement the iris and be sure brows are groomed so that shadow application is easier. If the eyes are either close-set or wide-set, consider the following: Close-set eyes: Keep all medium to dark colors on the outer half of the eye. This will draw attention outward and the eyes will seem farther apart. Check the eyebrow section to see if the brows are properly shaped to maximize the space between the eyes. Wide-set eyes: Extend the shadows to the inner corner of the eye and blend inward toward the bridge of the nose to minimize the space. Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 10
Make sure the brows are shaped correctly, also. EYEBROWS The eyebrow is the frame for the eye. The ideal shape can be drawn in three lines. Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 11
Makeup Tools 1 Eyelash Curlers 2 Angled brush - for lines and brows 3 Natural foundation sponge 4 Eyelash Comb - to separate lashes 5 Liner brush - for eyeliner 6 Foam blender - to soften pencil liner 7 Brush blender - to soften eyeshadow 8 Blush/contour brush 9 Tweezers -for all unwanted hair! 10 Dust-away brush - for under eyes 11 Eyeshadow brush - on top eyelids 12 Sharp scissors 13 Latex sponge - cream foundation 14 Lip brush - for even coverage 15 Hair clips 16 Foundation brush - for liquid foundation Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 12
This short list of the best makeup brushes meet the daily makeup application needs that most of us have, with maximum application efficiency and maximum results. The best makeup brushes qualities also include soft but firm bristle hair, no loose hairs. they are in size proportion to the facial zone and task performed, and they have edges and shapes that reflect their function. The best makeup brushes will last a long time when washed regularly with mild shampoo. 1. Concealer Brush: Look for square head to tapered corners, ideal for blending (under eye -square; blemishes-tapered). Long handle, good weight, great for application precision. 2. Foundation Brush: Look for fairly large wide, tapered flat head, ideal for liquid or cream foundations. 3. Large Powder Brush: Look for large, full, rounded brush (dome shape), ideal for loose powder, can also be used for compacts with pressed powder, and loose beads. It can also be use to brush off excess powder. 4. Blusher Brush: Look for full, large head with slight tapering (not as large as powder brush) designed for even distribution and natural looking definition across the cheeks and cheekbone. 5. Eyeshadow Brush: Look for square head, medium to large sized (just under 1/2 an inch width), with slight taper at corners, flat, a bristle head that is firm but soft for the delicate eye area. This brush is designed for sweeping color across eye lids and blending. By using its edge, it can be used for defining eyelid crease. 6. Slanted Brush: Look for a small, narrow, angled, flat brush head with soft but firm bristles. This brush is designed for application of fine lines such as close to your lash line, blending and softening color edges. It also is used for applying powder to brows. Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 13
7. Lip Brush: Look for a small, narrow, flat tapered edge brush. Designed for blending lip liner and lipstick applications. Great for blending lipstick colors too ( I always seem to wear two shades to get the color I want.). 8. Eyebrow/ Eyelash Brush: The easiest least expensive of the brushes... Clean an old, soft bristle tooth brush or mascara wand well, with warm soapy water. This brow brush is perfect for shaping the brows, separating eyelashes and removing and mascara clumps or debris. You can also set your eyebrows with hair spray or gel by applying the substance to the wand/ brush and combing through and shaping eyebrows (of course clean bristles afterwards). Brush Sets: This is a convenient way to go if you know the essential best makeup brushes...why? It saves you a little leg work in tracking down brush styles, and you will generally benefit from a price break when you buy in multiples. The Best Makeup Brushes Plus One Of The Most Essential Makeup Tools: The Eyelash Curler... an eyelash curler, is a "must have" makeup tool, it can work wonders in presenting a wider eyed look to your eyes. Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 14
Makeup is an art and applying makeup tips in a tricky way is another thing. Professionally done makeup enhances the appeal and gives you an added dignity in society which helps you regain self-confidence. Makeup should be an extension of what makes you, not something that makes you into someone else. Even the most expensive make up in the world would not look particularly great if it is applied carelessly and using your fingertips. The make-up includes number of things like you should know about make up tools like foundation, concealer, eyeshadow, eyeliners and their correct application for perfect look. Before the start of make-up you should choose well lighted area. All make up tools and products you need should be besides you. There are women who are not beautiful, but since they know the art of carrying themselves, they are the center of attraction despite their ordinary looks. Makeup Tips - Advice and Articles Foundation Many women avoid wearing foundation because they are scared of an unnatural mask-like effect. The foundation market today is saturated with many types and brands of foundations. Foundation is the cosmetic product that women pay the most attention to. And remember, foundation is one of those products you wear every day, so making the right investment at the beginning will pay off. There are two keys to applying foundation - the first is to choose the perfect foundation shade and the second is to pick the right formulation for your skin. Choosing foundation type The reason for applying foundation is to get a smooth and even finish to your skin. Liquid foundation is most commonly used because it is easy to apply. However, compact foundations are excellent alternatives as they give an even finish, which doesn't have to be set with powder. Types of Foundations Tinted Moisturizers - These are a a cross between a moisturizer and a foundation, as they will soothe your skin while giving a little coverage. They are ideal for young or clear skins. Unlike other foundations, you can blend tinted moisturizers on with your fingertips. Liquid Foundations - These suit all but the driest skins. If you have oily skin, look for an oil-free liquid foundation to cover affected areas without aggravating them. Cream Foundations - These are thick, rich and moisturizing, making them ideal for dry or mature skins. They have a fairy heavy texture, so blend them well into your skin with a damp cosmetic sponge. Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 15
Mousse Foundation - Again these are quite moisturizing and ideal for drier skins. To apply, dab a little onto the back of your hand, then dot onto your skin with a sponge. Compact Foundation - These are all-in-one formulations, which already contain powder. They come in a compact, usually with their own sponge for application. Stick Foundation - These are the original foundation, dating back to the early days of hollywood. They are best confined for use on badly blemished skin. HOW TO APPLY FOUNDATION Foundation is always applied downwards, to minimize the impact of facial hair. Take out a small blob of foundation on the palm of your hand. As foundation dries up fast, dot foundation section by section on the face. Start by dotting on the forehead and blend well with a damp sponge on fingers before moving on. Now do it on your cheeks, then chin, nose and upper neck. You may dilute the foundation by adding some astringent, toner or even water to make it sheer enough to let your skin show through. It looks more natural if applied like this. HOW TO BUY FOUNDATION Test foundation on the inside of the forearm-skin tone is closest to neck colour there, because it's protected from UV damage. Makeup should blend with the skin colour of the neck, not the face. If any doubt then buy one shade lighter than your facial skin tone. Don't make up your mind instantly. It takes about a minute for colour to dry and interact with the chemicals in your skin. The red pigments develop first so it will appear the pinkest at the beginning. Then go to the nearest source of natural light. (Even the most flattering uplift cosmetics hall tends to have colour-distorting fluorescent lighting.) If you have chosen the right colour, it will disappear into the skin. Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 16
Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 17
Concealer The next step in make-up is the application of concealer (smooth-skin essentials). See great results with the use of best concealers for acne scars and blemishes. Choose Best Makeup Concealer Concealer come in shades to match every skin tone. Choose a makeup concealer that is lightweight yet creamy. A stick concealer provides direct on-the-spot application. A quality concealer is texture-free, virtually invisible and vitamin-enriched. The best concealer will brighten and lighten dark areas, erase spots and even out skin tones. Quality concealer make skin flaw-free. Most concealer, including under eye concealer, can be used under foundation or on their own. Find a concealer that is water-resistant, fragrance-free and non-comedogenic. Use of Under-Eye Concealer: Concealer is applied to cover dark circles around the eyes, thereby greatly enhancing the appearance of the face. They are matched to the skin tone and are applied before using the harmony foundation. Concealer comes in shades to match every skin tone. Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 18
HOW TO APPLY CONCEALERS 1. In applying concealers, using the right makeup techniques is important. Concealers are of a denser composition than regular foundations and are generally available in sticks, tubes, pots, and creams. Concealers can be used to cover blemishes, dark spots, ruddy areas, marks, veins, freckles or under eye circles. 2. Your concealer should be one shade lighter than your foundation (and only in extreme cases should you use a concealer two shades lighter). 3. Using a concealer that is too light or too pink will give the appearance of `owl eyes'. In other words, it will emphasize the dark area instead of concealing it. 4. Apply concealer with a small fine tipped brush for an accurate application. As with any other application, blending is the key. 5. Always set your concealer with a sheer, translucent powder to prevent creasing. Powder Makeup - Tips on how to apply powder It is used to set makeup and hold it in place. Learn here about uses of makeup powders, choosing powders and tips on applying makeup powder. Also read advice on Face Powder. Applying blush - How to Apply Blusher Blusher is a subtle ingredient of make-up and brings a blush and glow to face. We show you how to apply blusher and highlight your best features. Give your complexion a bloom of colour with this indispensable beauty aid - blush. Apply foundation, eye color and lipstick and then apply blusher as Blush should be your last makeup step. Nothing brings a dull, drowsy face to life faster than a quick sweep of blush. "You put blush on, and you look instantly prettier, fresher and less tired," says makeup guru Bobbi Brown. Decide the color of blush you want to apply on your cheeks. Read useful advice from makeup professional on how to apply blusher. How to Apply Blush First choose the color that resembles the natural glow of your cheeks after you exercise. Determine your face shape: are you oval, heart, round, long or square? Knowing this helps you determine where it's best to apply the blush. Complete the application of foundation, powder and all eye makeup before applying blush. Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 19
Put the blush on your brush, tapping off any excess or put a dab of gel on your fingers. Look in the mirror and smile Sweep color in an arc following the line of your cheekbone up from the apple of your cheek to your hairline. Keep color light & blended. Blend a little blush down your cheek for a little more natural, less dramatic look. Tips for applying blusher For a sun-kissed sheen: dab a small bit of bronzer powder on your forehead, chin & nose. Make sure it doesn't look like a stripe. Make sure to blend makeup into your jawline and hairline so it looks more natural. Also try using a brush instead of those square sponge things or your face will look to cakey. never mix blusher powder with other makeup creams a color that is close to or lighter than your lipstick will work best use apricot shades on pale skin and dusty roses on darker skin if your skin is oily, a powder brush will last longer always dip the brush quickly and flick your wrist to stroke the cheek lightly never apply blusher on the nose for corrective purposes never apply too much blusher otherwise your face will look as a mask dab a little shimmery blush on the highest point of your cheekbone nearest your eye to create a more distinct look Powder Blush This should be applied over the top of your foundation and face powder. To apply powder blusher, dust over the compact with a large soft brush. If you have taken too much onto your brush, tap the handle on the back of your hand to remove the excess. It is better to waste a little than applying too much! Cream Blusher Cream blusher is applied with your fingertips, after foundation, but before face powder. To apply, dab a few dots over your cheeks, from the plump part up towards your cheekbone. Using your fingertips, blend well. Build up the effect gradually, adding more blusher to create just the look you want. Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 20
Colour Choice for Blusher There is always a kaleidoscope of blusher shades to choose from. However, as a general rule, it is best to opt for a shade that tones well with your skin colouring and co-ordinates with the rest of your skin colouring and makeup. Mascara Application and applying makeup Mascara Mascara should be applied before an eye shadow. Professional tips on mascara application, colors, for highlighting your b Mascara adds a flattering fringe to your eyes - particularly if your lashes are fair. Applying Mascara is the final step in eye makeup. Mascara is applied on the eye lashes to beautify them. Different formulas and application of mascara can enhance your lashes in different ways. To make the eyes alluring, the use of the right eye makeup product using the correct technique is very important. For eyepopping appeal to this focal point of the face, the basic idea is to use complementary colors. Mascara adds volume and length to the lashes and make your eyes appear brighter and more beautiful. How to Apply Mascara Start by applying mascara to your upper lashes first. Brush them downwards to start with, then brush your lashes upwards from underneath. Use a tiny zig-zag movement to prevent mascara from clogging on your lashes. Next, use the tip of the mascara wand to brush your lower lashes, using a gentle side to side technique. Take care to keep your hand steady whilst you are applying the mascara and not to blink while the mascara is still wet. Comb through your lashes with an eyelash comb to remove any excess the wand has left behind. Tips for applying eye mascara Select a suitable color. If you have blond or red lashes then go for brown mascara. Darker-lashed women can consider brown for a casual look, and black or brown-black for more pronounced or dramatic lashes. Before applying mascara curl the lashes to widen the eyes. Prior to your mascara, Curl your lashes with an eyelash curler and apply all other eye makeup. Begin with the underside of your upper eye lashes and then moving the brush slowly upward toward the tips of your lashes. Wait for a minute for them to dry, and similarly apply a second coat. Let the first coat dry completely, then apply the second coat. Two thin coats look more natural than one thick coat. Finally brush with a clean dry brush, to separate the lashes. Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 21
Selection of eyeliner shades For women with blue eyes, eyeliners in brown and rose tones contrast the blue of the eyes, making them appear more vibrant. Green eyes, on the other hand, brighten up with violet shades that give a dramatic look for evenings or stage makeup and look great in photographs. A mocha shade is a subtle, everyday look for all eye colors but especially brown eyes, which also give a smoldering look when green and gold eyeliners are used. Neutral shades in eyeliners are charcoal, black, and chocolate, good for all eye colors, except those with small eyes would do well to avoid these, as they tend to make eyes appear smaller. Thus, it is preferable to restrict dark eyeliner colors to the crease of the eye and highlight the brow bone with a light shade. All eye shadows need to complement the eye and hair-color of the person and a bit of powder dusted on the eyelid prepares the eyeliner to set well and intensify the eyes. How to remove eye mascara Mascara must be removed very carefully to avoid damaging the delicate skin around the eyes. While removing the mascara from eyes always avoid the colour from going onto the delicate area below the bottom lashes and close your eyes. Roll a cotton bud dipped in a cosmetic cleanser over the lashes, taking the mascara down onto the tissue. Repeat this till all the mascara is gone. Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 22
Eyeliner Eyeliner is probably one of makeup artist s most valuable tools. When used correctly you can define, enhance, brighten and open up the eye. Eyeliner can be subtle, soft, dramatic or glamorous. A makeup artist can turn a daytime look into an evening look with a quick, skillful application of dramatic eyeliner. Eyeliner can also be used for corrective purposes such as making wide-set eyes appear closer, opening up small eyes and many other illusions can be created with the correct use of eyeliner. Straight Eye Liner: This eyeliner is a subtle look that follows the curve of the upper lash line. The eyeliner is as close to the lash line as possible and should look as though it is "hugging" the lashes. The line must be as smooth and fluid as possible, and should not have any jagged lines or bumps. This (as well as most other applications) is best done with fluid, consistent strokes. It is best to keep the number of strokes to a minimum, the fewer strokes the better, with most applications being done in only two strokes. This is probably the most commonly used eye liner application, as it is great for a daytime look. Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 23
Eye Shadows Great care is needed when applying eyeshadow. Treat yourself with tips on how to apply eyeshadow, choosing best colors and make your eyes look fantastic. How to Apply Eye shadow, Easy steps for Applying Eyeshadows and Application Tips Eyeshadows are certainly eye catching on the entire face. It is like fun to experiment with eye shadows, eye liners, pencils, paints,and powders but most women just want to know what is right for them. Always choose neutral colours for eyeshadow to subtly enhance your looks, or play with kaleidoscope of different shades to contrast with and dramatize your colouring. For those wishing to make their eyes the focal point of attention, eye shadows, eyebrow gels, eyeliners in the right style can do the trick. Follow below given steps on how to apply eye shadow. How to Apply Eyeshadow 1. The first rule when applying eye shadow is to blend it well so there are no harsh edges. Put the very light shade (high lighter) on the space beneath the brows up to the crease of the eye lid. 2. Apply the medium shade on the upper eyelid only. Use a lighter shade under the browbone to highlight the eyes. 3. And the darkest shade on the crease of the eyelid that is the place almost in the middle of the total eye area-above the lashes and beneath the brows. Blend both the colors well. 4. With the tip of a fine brush, apply a little shadow beneath the eyes, along the lower lash line. Smudge it lightly to give your eyes a subtle, glamorous look. Applying Eyeshadow Tip submitted by Pav Purple eyeshadows tend to look stunning on brown eyes as does green on hazel eyes, gold on green eyes, and for blue eyes use a blue eyeshadow in a lighter shade than your eye colour. Eye Shadow Kit and Colour Choice Your eye shadow kit may contain 3 shadowsa very light shade (vanilla, very pale pink, beige, silver grey etc) which is the high lighter and which gives a light shimmer on the brow bone and highlights it. The box has two more shades of the same color. Light base Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 24
shadows in pale pink, yellow, cream or beige look good on small eyes; spread over the entire lid with a touch of dark shadow in the outer corners, these accent the eyes. Apart from colour, there is a choice of forms of the eye shadows. You can choose from pressed powders, pencils, sticks, gels, crayons and creams. Pressed powders are still the most popular form of shadows, because they are the easiest to apply and control. These are available in pearly and matt textures. The effect is not long lasting, but if you apply them with a wet brush, you can get a deeper effect and increase the staying qualities of the colour. Powder and Cream Eyeshadows Powder Eyeshadow: This is the most popular type. These come in pressed cakes of powder either with a small brush or a sponge applicator. You can build up their density from barely there to dramatic. Apply using a damp brush or sponge if you want a deep colour for an evening look. Cream Shadows: These are oil based and come in little pots or compacts. They are applied either with a brush or your fingertips. They are a good choice for dry skins that need extra moisturizing. Stick Shadows and Liquid Eye Shadow Wax based, you smooth these onto your eyelids from the stick. Ensure they have a creamy texture before you buy them, so they would not drag at your skin. Usually Liquid eyeshadow come in a slim bottle with a sponge applicator. Look for the cream-to-powder ones that smooth on as a liquid and blend to a velvety powder finish. Picking Your Eye shadow Colors Eye shadow colors matched with skin tone, eye color and hair color is what makeup experts recommend and neutral looks good on everyone. The first step towards applying any eye makeup is to pat some powder onto the eyelids to matte them and keep the powder eye shadow from creasing. If using cream eye shadow, this can be skipped as creams will clump and clog with the dry powder. Eye shadows need to coordinate with eyes and hair, not than clothes. Browns, lavenders are best for blue-eyed, blonde haired women as well as light brown eyed-ladies. Smoky grays, bronzed pinks and silver toned peaches look good on women with green or black eyes. Eyeshadows Makeup Tip Suggested by Visitors Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 25
Try applying an eyeshadow that matches your skin tone. Apply to the lid all the way up to the eyebrow. Then apply a walnut colored eyeliner on the top lid, then smudge. Put on a dark brown mascara. You will look sophisticated, but very natural. NEVER wear red eyeshadow if you are a blue-eyed blonde. It seriously makes you look like da devil. Or the American flag which is worse. By Edward Lipstick Applying makeup tips - How to Apply Lipstick Lipstick has been around for about 5000 years! It is the earliest and quickest way to give your face a focus and create an instant splash of colour. To apply lipstick properly, it is important to have the right tools handy for the best application of lip makeup and get the setting right, in sync with the occasion. The first step is to choose the best shade of lipstick according to the skin tone. Like the colors of rainbow, there are shades of virtually every color when it comes to coloring your lips. With a lighter complexion, the lipstick is used more to subjugate your skin tone. Lighter shades make a fair complexion seems paler and dull. Go for bright colors and avoid light pinks. How to Apply Lipstick Ensure your lips are soft and supple by smoothing over moisturizer before you start applying Lipstick. Prime your lips by smoothing them with foundation, using a makeup sponge so you reach every tiny crevice on the surface. Dust over the top of the foundation with a light dusting of your usual face powder, to help you rlipstick stay put for longer. Rest your elbow on a firm surface and carefully dwar an outline using a lip pencil. So it does not drag you skin, it may help to warm it slightly in your palm. Start by defining the cupid's bow on the upper lip. Finish by completing the edges of the outline to the upper lip. Use a lipbrush to fill in the outline with lipstick, ensuring you reach into every tiny crevice on the surface. Open your mouth to brush the colour into the corners of your lips. You will help your lipstick last longer if you blot over the surface with a tissue. It will also give an attractive, semi-matte finish to your lips. Reapply to help a longer lasting finish. Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 26
Makeup kit essentials for applying lipstick properly The essential items for applying lipstick properly is having the right shade of lipstick handy with a lip brush, lip base/balm, lip liner and gloss, depending on individual taste. A lip liner defines the lips and prevents lip color from bleeding, giving it durability. They are available in pencil form and should be matched with the shade of lipstick used. Gentle brushing around the lips with a soft toothbrush helps to exfoliate dead cells around the mouth area and give a clear, defined shape to the lip line. Applying a touch of foundation/lip base onto the lips helps lipstick stay on longer and a neutral or lipstick matched liner used to outline the lips after this. The lip liner must be started from the center of the upper lip, drawn into a line towards each corner and follow the edge of the natural lip line. The color can be filled over the lips with a lip brush in slow, deliberate strokes and lipstick that has a formulation for transfer-resistant color stays for a longer time. If the lip pencil is chilled in the fridge for a few minutes before application, it glides on smoothly and the outlining of the lips is easier. Lip conditioners used in lipsticks give it longer staying powder and are ideal for party wear or all daywear too, while keeping the lips moist and nourished for hours. After the first application is over, the lips must be stretched and the liner repeated lightly again, blotted with a tissue and lip color re-applied with a lip brush for a no-budge, nosmudge, luscious lip wear. Making the mouth round as an 'o' prevents lip color from spreading onto the teeth. Liners and gloss are best avoided for a lip that is too full, but just a hint of lacquer brings a glow to the face. Lipstick Tips Go over your lipstick with an ice cube for lasting results. When applying lip gloss, or lipstick, apply lip balm or chapstick first. Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 27
To make lips pink take lip balm and brush with softly to your lips. Lipstick Lipstick is the final stage of your makeup application. Apply these tips to make your lips kissable! Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 28
Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 29
Activity: Corrective Lip Treatment Use colored pencils on the diagrams to illustrate how lipstick can be applied to create the illusion of more balanced and proportioned lips. Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 30
How to Apply Red Lipstick: A Personalized Guide to Wearing the Red Lip Color Trend Latoya Perkins The key to looking chic and sexy wearing red lipstick is choosing the right product and shade, and applying it properly. Here's how. Open up any fashion magazine this fall, and odds are you'll see more than one model or celebrity sporting a sumptuous red pout (and the attitude to match). Think of current 'It' girls such as Christina Aguilera, Dita Von Teese, and Scarlett Johannsen - many who take their cue from old Hollywood glamour Queens such as Rita Hayworth, Vivien Leigh, and Veronica Lake. The common denominator between these ladies is self-confidence - to sport this bold look, the wearer must be comfortable being the centre of attention. The red lip is an ubiquitous trend that typically carries through each season, yet fall is undoubtedly when this lip look is most fitting. We're surrounded by rusty hues of orange, yellow, brown and red, and our wardrobes reflect the richness of the season, draping us in luxurious fabrics such as velvet, suede, wool, and lace. Painting on a sexy red lip is the ultimate finish to this season's opulence. Unfortunately, for many of us the red lip can be the most daring and daunting look to pull off. Here, we'll outline how to sport a notice-me pucker with style and ease. Texture Many women avoid trying a red lip because they feel it can look too brash, but depending on the application and texture of the product, lips can be as subtle or as intense as you're comfortable with. This season, almost anything goes as far as texture, with the exception of a high-gloss finish, as it can look too garish with an already stand-out mouth. As a rule, a blue-based red is flattering on most complexions and will make your eyes sparkle, teeth look whiter, and skin more luminous-looking. Application Another important consideration is the application. If full-on colour makes you nervous, apply lipstick with your finger, patting it on the center of the lip and working outward to create a stained look, which is wearable anywhere. For more intensity, first choose a lip liner that either matches the desired lipstick or is a shade darker than your natural lip colour. After tracing the lip line, smudge the line slightly with a Q- tip or your fingertip to make it less rigid. Apply lip colour with a lip brush, sweeping on just enough to lay Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 31
a foundation of colour. Blot lips with a tissue and apply a second coat, painting colour on carefully. This gives lips dimension and makes lip colour last. Finish the look with a dab of pearlized highlighter in either the centre of the bottom lip, or just above the bow of the upper lip, which accentuates the mouth. Tone Wearing the right shade for your skintone is crucial in choosing a red lip colour - as a rule, a blue-based red is flattering on most complexions and will make your eyes sparkle, teeth look whiter, and skin more luminous-looking. In particular, reds with a blue undertone look great on fair skin or that which has a cooler undertone. If skin is ruddy, aim for a lip colour that has violet or fuchsia in it. For olive or darker skin, orange-, golden-, or brown-based reds work best, although on very dark skin a cool blue fuchsia-red can look beautiful. The following are some handy shade suggestions: For fair skin, Cover Girl Continuous Colour Lipstick in Really Red, or Chanel Lover Rouge Allure Luminous Satin Lip Colour. For medium skintones, Clinique Long Last Soft Shine Lipstick in Red Red Red, or Estee Lauder Pure Colour Long Lasting Lipstick in Red Attitude both look great. Olive or dark skin tones look beautiful in shades like Lancôme Rouge Absolut Crème in Merlot (my personal favorite) or Maybelline Moisture Extreme Lipstick in Crushed Cranberry. At this point you may be thinking: What do I do with the rest of my makeup? How should I wear my hair? When should I wear red lipstick, and when is it most appropriate? As with any makeup look, balance is key. Keep the lip the focus of the face by wearing only a sheer wash of champagne-coloured shadow on lids and a soft application of rosy blush to the apples of cheeks. For added drama, brush on several coats of mascara to lashes. Hair pulled loosely back into a chignon or bun at the nape of the neck looks polished; for a more glamorous look, try wearing soft retro curls or waves reminiscent of Marilyn Munroe. As far as appropriateness goes, the red lip has been around so long it's almost a neutral. For day or for a more casual look, choose a moist, creamy formula and try not to apply it too precisely, which can look too extreme during the day. At night or for more formal affairs, try a lipstick with a matte consistency, which will up the intensity, and apply carefully all over lips. Ultimately, the choice is up to you - whatever you're most comfortable with is what will look best, because you'll wear it with confidence. Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 32
Makeup Tips Makeup Tip 1) Sweep a little loose powder under your eyes when applying dark shades of eye shadow to catch any falling specks and prevent them from staining your skin. Makeup Tip 2) Make your lips look larger by wearing a bright, light lipstick. Or make the appear small by wearing dark and more muted colours. Makeup Tip 3) If you do not have a specialized contouring product for cheeks, simply use an ordinary face powder a couple of shades darker than your usual one to slim down the cheeks. Makeup Tip 4) Add a drop of witch hazel available in all good pharmacies to turn ordinary foundation into a medicated one, it will work wonders on oily skin which is prone to acne and pimples. Makeup Tip 5) Mascara your lashes before applying false ones to help them stick properly. Makeup Tip 6) If you look tired then blend a little concealer just away from the outer corner of your eye - it makes you look as though you had a good night's sleep. Makeup Tip 7) If you have not got time for a full make-up, but want to look great, paint on a bright red lipstick - its is happy, glamorous color which immediately brightens your face. Makeup Tip 8) Never apply makeup before blow drying your hair - the heat from the dryer can make you perspire and cause your makeup to smudge. Makeup Tip 9) The colour of powder eyeshadow can be made to look more intense by dipping your eyeshadow brush in water first. Makeup Tip 10) Keep eye lashes smooth and supple by brushing them with petroleum jelly before going to bed at night. Makeup Tip 11) Apply cream blusher in light downward movements to prevent it from creasing in specks of colour from catching in the fine hairs on your face. Makeup Tip 12) If mascara tends to clog on your lower lashes then try using a small thin brush to paint colour on to individual lashes. Makeup Tip 13) Make sure you give moisturizer Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 33
time to sink in before you start applying your makeup as it will help your makeup go on more easily. Makeup Tip 14) If your eye liner is too hard and drags your skin, hold it next to a lighter bulb for a few seconds before applying. Makeup Tip 15) Lip gloss can look sophisticated if you just apply a dot in the center of your lower lip. Makeup Tip 16) If you are unsure where to apply blusher, gently pinch your cheeks. If you like the effect, apply blusher in the same area - it will look wonderfully natural! it out. Makeup Tip 17) To prevent lipstick from getting on your teeth, try this tips - after putting it on, put your finger in the mouth, purse your lips and pull Makeup Tip 18) Women who wear glasses need to take special advice on makeup. If you are near-sighted, your glasses will make your eyes look smaller. So, go for brighter eyeshadows and lots of mascara to ensure they do not disappear. Makeup Tip 19) A little foundation lightly rubbed through your eyebrows and brushed through with an old toothbrush will instantly lighten them. Makeup Tip 20) For long lasting blush on sunny days or hot nights, apply both cream and powder blusher. Apply the cream formulation first, set with translucent powder then dust with a little powder blush. Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 34
General Guidelines SPECIAL OCCASION MAKEUP Choose striking contour eyes. Choose dramatic smoky eyes. Add darker, lighter, or shimmery color to the cheeks. Apply liner color to the lips; fill in with pencil and blot. Apply gloss to the center of the lips with a lip brush or applicator. CORRECTIVE MAKEUP Facial features can be accented with proper highlighting, subdued with correct shadowing or shading, and balanced with the proper hairstyle. A basic rule is that highlighting emphasizes a feature, whereas shadowing minimizes it. ANALYZING FEATURES AND FACE SHAPE The basic rule of makeup application is to emphasize the client s attractive features while minimizing features that are less appealing. The goal is to enhance the client s individuality, not to remake her image according to some ideal standard. WARM AND COOL COLORS Warm colors range from yellow and gold through oranges, redoranges, most reds, and some yellow-greens. Cool colors are dominated by the blues, greens, violets, and blue-reds. Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 35
SELECTING MAKEUP COLOR Consider skin, eye, and hair color. Decide if the skin is light, medium, or dark. Light skin color Use light colors for a natural look and dark colors for a dramatic look. Medium skin color Medium tones will create more of a understated look. Light or dark tones will provide more contrast and appear bolder. Dark skin color Dark colors will be subtle; medium or light will be striking and vivid. COLOR FOR EYES Neutrals are always the safest choice Complementary colors are determined thus: Blue eyes Orange: Choices include gold, warm orange-browns like peach and copper, red-browns like mauve and plum, and neutrals like taupe or camel. Green eyes Red: Choices include brown-based reds, red-orange, red-violet, and violet; coppers, rusts, pinks, plums, mauve, and purples. Brown eyes neutral and can wear any contrasting colors such as greens, blues, grays, and silvers. CHEEK AND LIP COLOR Coordinate in the same color family as the eye makeup. HAIR COLOR and EYE COLOR Hair color needs to be taken into account when determining eye makeup color. COLOR SELECTION STEPS Determine skin level: light, medium, or dark. Determine eye color: blue, green, brown, etc. Determine skin undertone: warm, cool, or neutral. Determine complementary colors. Determine hair color: warm or cool. Choose eye makeup colors based on complementary colors. Coordinate cheek and lip colors within same color family: warm, cool, or neutral. Apply makeup. Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 36
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS Wash your hands before and after every application. Properly drape client. Protect client from direct skin or hair contact with chair. Keep your fingernails smooth. Use only sanitized brushes and implements. Use a shaker-type container for loose powder. Pour all lotions from bottle containers. Use clean spatula to remove creams from jars. Never apply lip color directly from container to the client s lips. Use antiseptic on tweezed areas of the eyebrow to avoid infection. Discard all disposable items. Keep workstation sanitary, neat, and well organized. Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 37
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Activity: Adapted from Milady s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 42