Baju Band North India, Uttar Pradesh, Lucknow, late 18 th century

Bangles...They wear on their arms, above the elbow, rich armlets two inches wide, enriched on the surface with stones, and having small bunches of pearls depending from them. At their wrists are very rich bracelets, or bands of pearls, which usually go round nine or twelve times... from Storia do Mogor by Niccolao Manucci, (1638 1717) This Italian traveller and writer, worked at the Moghul court and his first-hand knowledge led to his famously detailed written account Storia do Mogor, an extensive eye witness testimony of Moghul history and life. Infinitely varied in design, material and decoration, the bangle is one of the primary ornaments of traditional Indian jewellery and a significant indication to the wearer s marital status. Its endless diversity in shape and structure, inspired us to compose this publication, dedicated to this powerful ornament. 3

Baju Band North India, Uttar Pradesh, Lucknow, late 18 th century Rigid gold armlet (BAJU BAND) consisting of double hexagonal cylinders, complemented with pliable floral design hinges, kundan set with diamonds, at both ends. Both cylinders have MAKARA head finials, kundan set with diamonds on the top and along the sides against a SABZ ZAMIN (green) translucent enameled ground. 4 5

Naugari India, Rajasthan, mid 20 th century Pair of gold bracelets, NAUGARI, are ornamented with bunched hollow balls (GAJRE), rigidly fixed to the main body by threading a wire through their attached integral loops. This work is called MOTI KE GAJRE KAM; the effect of bunching is GUCHCHEDAR. 6 7

Baju Band India, Punjab, Lahore, 19 th century A gold BAJU BAND kundan set with foiled rock crystals, embellishes with carved and gold floral pattern. The reverse of the pendant is plain gold. 8 9

Baju Bands North India, circa 1900 A pair of gold, open worked BAJU BANDS, the front kundan set with the classic Hindu planetal gemstone arrangement NAVA RATNA, a central ruby, rounded by cat s eye, topaz, coral, hyacinth, sapphire, pearl, diamond and emerald. The reverse of each BAJU BAND is decorated with blue enamel on a green ground, depicting a floral design. 10 11

Naugari India, Rajasthan, early 20 th century The gold bracelet, NAUGARI, consists of nine half-cylindrical hinged sections, set with emeralds. 12 13

Baju Bands India, Bikaner, 19 th century Pair of gold armlets, BAJU BANDS, set with parab cut saphires. The reverse is decorated with multicolored enamel, depicting birds and flowers. 14 15

Kada India, Rajasthan, Jaipur, 18 th century Pair of gold enameled bangles, KADA, with two elephant-heads meeting face to face (HATHI-KA-KARA). Red enamel on the outside and the inside shows red birds and flowers on a white ground (SAFED CHALWAN). 16 17

Balai South India, Tamil Nadu, 20 th century A variety of plain gold bangles with different hammered patterns: points (GOKHRI), twisted rope (GATHI) and wish fulfilling vine (KALPALATA). 18 19

Churin North India, Rajasthan, Jaipur, early 20 th century A pair of gold bangles, CHURIN, of which the outer side is decorated with dark blue, Nil Zamin enamel, kundan set with white sapphire in gold collets, shaped like leaf and flower buds. The inside is decorated in a floral pattern with SAFED CHALWAN enamel, red and green enamel on a white ground. 20 21

Baju Bands North India, Rajasthan, Bikaner, circa 1900 Pair of gold armlets, BAJU BANDS, kundan set with irregular size flat cut diamonds. The reverse is enameled in the champlevé technique with red and blue flowers, green leaves forming arabesques with red, green, gold and blue enameled birds on a white opaque enamel ground, known as SAFED CHALWAN. 22 23

Kada India, Bikaner, 19 th century A pair of open worked gold KADA, bangles, kundan set with white and blue sapphires. The rim is decorated with a webbing of tight knitted pearls, MOTI JALI. These bangles are an example of one of many India wedding ornaments. 24 25