Issue 87 August issue 2016 MOTIFS & TEMPLATES PRINT OUT & KEEP Use these guides to get started today MAXI DRESS By Melissa Mora On page 18 of Sew Magazine August Issue When printing from Acrobat, be sure to select to print Actual Size, instead of Fit to Page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 ACEVILLE PUBLICATIONS LTD All projects, templates and patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes.
Page 2-13 Title: Maxi dress Designer: Melissa Mora Magazine page: 18 GETTING THE PERFECT FIT If making the dress for a woman, take the following measurements; High Bust, Bust/Chest, Waist, and Neck to Waist. For a child, measure Bust/Chest, Waist, and Neck to Waist. Compare with the charts below to find the right size. If the measurements don't fall in line with one particular dress size, remember that sizes are just a starting point and that you can customise the fit to suit the wearer. Follow these guidelines to choose your starting size: For girls, go with the bigger of the waist or bust/chest size. For women, if the high bust and waist measurements fall within the same dress size, go with that size. If they do not, go with the larger of the two to suit your size. A full bust or small bust adjustment will need to be done to alter the bodice so that the bust will fit perfectly. DRESS MEASUREMENT GUIDE FOR WOMEN Dress size High Bust Bust/ Chest Waist Neck to Waist 0 78.7cm 81.3cm 66cm 36.8cm 2 81.3cm 83.8cm 68.6cm 38.1cm 4 83.8cm 86.4cm 71.1cm 38.7cm 6 86.4cm 88.9cm 73.7cm 39.4cm 8 88.9cm 91.4cm 76.2cm 40cm 10 91.4cm 94cm 78.7cm 40.6cm 12 94cm 96.5cm 81.3cm 41.3cm 14 99.1cm 101.6cm 86.4cm 41.9cm 16 101.6cm 106.7cm 91.4cm 42.5cm 18 106.7cm 111.8cm 96.5cm 43.2cm 20 109.2cm 116.8cm 101.6cm 43.8cm 22 114.3cm 121.9cm 106.7cm 44.5cm DRESS MEASUREMENT GUIDE FOR GIRLS Dress size Bust/Chest Waist Neck to Waist 2T 50.8cm 48.3cm 22.9cm 3T 53.3cm 50.8cm 24.1cm 4T 55.9cm 53.3cm 25.4cm 5 58.4cm 55.9cm 26.7cm 6 61cm 58.4cm 27.9cm 8 66cm 61cm 30.5cm 10 71.1cm 63.5cm 33cm 12 76.2cm 66cm 35.6cm
SKIRT MEASUREMENT GUIDE FOR WOMEN All measurements listed include the seam allowance and 2.6cm to hem Dress size Knee length Maxi length 0 57.2cm 95.3cm 2 58.4cm 96.5cm 4 59.7cm 97.8cm 6 61cm 99.1cm 8 62.2cm 100.3cm 10 63.5cm 101.6cm 12 64.8cm 102.9cm 14 66cm 104.1cm 16 67.3cm 105.4cm 18 67.9cm 106cm 20 68.6cm 106.7cm 22 69.2cm 107.3cm SKIRT MEASUREMENT GUIDE FOR GIRLS All measurements listed include the seam allowance and 2.6cm to hem Dress size Knee length Maxi length 2T 30.5cm 50.8cm 3T 33cm 55.9cm 4T 39.4cm 62.2cm 5 41.9cm 64.8cm 6 45.7cm 71.1cm 8 48.3cm 77.5cm 10 50.8cm 85.1cm 12 53.3cm 90.2cm MAXI DRESS FABRIC AMOUNTS Dress size 111.8cm/114.3cm or 147.3cm/152.4cm 0 3.4m 3.4m 2 3.4m 3.4m 4 3.4m 3.4m 6 3.4m 3.4m 8 3.4m 3.4m 10 3.4m 3.4m 12 3.4m 3.4m 14 4.6m 3.4m 16 4.6m 3.4m 18 4.6m 3.4m 20 4.6m 3.4m 22 4.6m 3.4m
NOTES Fabric amounts listed include enough for lining in the same fabric. Recalculate if using different material for lining. BODICE ADJUSTMENTS First adjust for the length. If your neck to waist measurement differs from that listed for the dress size chosen from the chart, you will need to lengthen or shorten the bodice. Cut the tracing on the Lengthen/Shorten line. For a longer bodice, spread the pattern apart the length you need, add paper into the gap and tape. For a shorter bodice, overlap the pattern pieces and tape. Blend the side seam. Adjusting the bust If your high bust measurement puts you in a smaller starting size then your bust measurement, you'll need to do a full bust adjustment. If it puts you in a larger size, you'll need to do a small bust adjustment. Full bust and small bust adjustments start the same: Draw a line to extend the centre line of the waist dart straight up toward the shoulder. Draw a line 1 from the bust point to the square mark on the armhole curve. Draw a line connecting the centre line of the bust dart with the bust point. Cut on the centre line of the waist dart up to the bust point, then continue on the line toward the 2 armhole. Do not cut all the way through the armhole, just close enough to create a hinge in the pattern that allows you to move the dart without changing the length of the armhole. Cut through the centre line of the bust dart almost to the bust point, creating another hinge in the 3 pattern. Now proceed for making either a full bust or small bust adjustment. Full bust adjustment Using the pattern hinge from the armhole, move the side seam out until you have made the gap at 1 bust point level equal to half the required extra bust width. For example, if your bust measurement is 5.1cm larger than the base size, you want the gap to be 2.6cm here. Add paper under the gap and tape down. Move the bust dart hinge so that the side seam is straight down again. This will make the left side of 2 the pattern longer than the centre front. Add paper under the bust dart and tape. Add paper to the centre front of the pattern so that the waist line is once again level. Redraw the 3 bust point at the same level as it was before the adjustment, in the centre of the added paper. Measure 1.3cm away from the bust point, lining your ruler up with the centre of the bust dart. For 4 each additional 2.6cm beyond the first that you spread the gap, measure another 1.3cm away from the bust point. For example, if you added a 5.1cm adjustment, measure 1.3cm + 1.3cm = 2.6cm away from the bust point. This is where the new bust dart will end. Make a mark, then connect this to the original dart legs at the side seams. Measure your dart legs and make sure they are the same length. If not, adjust your dart point up or down to make the legs the same length. Redraw the waist dart so that it still ends at the same level, centred between the ends of the dart 5 legs. It should point directly at your new bust point. Small bust adjustment Using the pattern hinge from the armhole, move the side seam in until you have overlapped the 1 pattern at bust point level equal to half the required less bust width. For example, if your bust measurement is 2.6cm less than the base size, you want to overlap 1.3cm here. Tape the pattern. Move the bust dart hinge so that the side seam is straight again. This will make the left side of the 2 pattern shorter than the centre front of the pattern. Cut the pattern at the centre front so that the waist line is once again level. Redraw the bust point at the same level as it was before the adjustment, using the line drawn up toward the shoulder as a guide to centre it. Measure 1.3cm away from the bust point, lining your ruler up with the centre of the bust dart. This 3 is where your new bust dart will end. Make a mark, then connect this to the original dart legs at the side seams. Measure your dart legs and make sure they are the same length. If not, adjust your dart point up or down to make the legs the same length. Redraw the waist dart so that it still ends at the same level and points directly at your new 4 bust point.
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