Active Beauty PrimalHyal Gold Oil soluble hyaluronic acid Crafted by white technology
Focus on the product Skin and hydration 64% of our skin is made of water. This water content is constantly maintained in our skin by means of specific macro molecules, hyaluronic acid (HA) being the major one. Skin dehydration is one of the first signs of ageing, as it causes skin barrier functions and hyaluronic acid content to decrease, preventing water from being captured deep down in the skin and also enabling water to evaporate at the surface. Skin hydration is also well known to be negatively affected by many other parameters including detergents, UV and pollution, which all decrease the skin barrier and its hyaluronic acid content. It is for these very reasons that the #1 benefit expected by consumers from a cosmetic product worldwide is hydration, with a rising demand for even greater performance and long-lasting properties. Hyaluronic acid: the #1 hydration molecule Our body contains an average of 15 grams of hyaluronic acid, which is found naturally in every cell in the body, in our: scalp, hair, eyes, skin and even lips tissue. Due to its chemical nature, hyaluronic acid can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water from 5 to 12 hours. In each body location, it serves a different function which is correlated to its molecular size: high molecular HA has more of a water retention function, while smaller molecular weight enhances biological activities. The physiological roles in skin includes: Moisturising and holding water Maintaining skin viscoelasticity Holding water for NMF molecules and favouring NMF production Improving cell multiplication and mobility by transportation of nutrients This natural water reservoir and highly hydrating molecule is extremely water soluble, but as a consequence can not be included in oil base formula nor in dry products such as compressed powders. PrimalHyal Gold: beyond hyaluronic acid Being one of the world leader in premium quality hyaluronic acid production, Active Beauty experts have designed a new generation of highly hydrated hyaluronic acid which for the very first time can be formulated in oil and powders. Produced by means of sustainable manufacturing processes (biofermentation) using only natural raw materials, a specific molecular weight HA (<50 kda) is incorporated into a micro emulsion to create PrimalHyal Gold. This new generation of hyaluronic acid allows us to break the previous limits of formulation by enabling it to be used in oily formulas. Wheat Glucose Lactic bacteria Wheat Bio-ethanol Sugarbeet Fermentation Purification Precipitation Low Molecular Weight HA PrimalHyal Gold will enable the activity of HA in all kind of formulations from fully oil based to press powder. Let your imagination run wild!
Efficacy Skin penetration of PrimalHyal Gold HA molecules Ex vivo skin penetration tests by Raman spectroscopy were used to analyse the skin penetration of the the low molecular weight HA (<50kDa) molecules used to manufacture PrimalHyal Gold. Skin explants from a 44 year old woman were treated with 300µL of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid used to manufacture PrimalHyal Gold, at 1% then incubated 8h at 32 C. Representation of the permeation and localisation of LMW HA (20-50 kda HA) The explants were then frozen at -20 C and cut lengthways. The presence at different depths of the specific low molecular weight HA markers are determined by Raman spectroscopy. Results: The specific Raman markers show low molecular weight HA is able to penetrate the skin up to 120 µm. This test demonstrated the ability of hyaluronic acid contained in PrimalHyal Gold to penetrate the skin deep down up to the dermis layer, thereby enabling it to deliver the known activity of this molecular size: TransEpidermal Water Loss prevention Water holding in the dermis Improvement of the skin biomechanical properties.
Efficacy Instant and long lasting hydration benefits (ex vivo evaluation) Raman spectroscopy was used to measure the level of hydration before and after application of a lipstick, used as a reference oil based formula, containing 4% of PrimalHyal Gold. Lipstick PrimalHyal Gold Placebo Xyliance 2% 2% Preservative 0,4% 0,4% Caprylic/capric triglyceride 2% 2% Petrolatum QSP 100% QSP 100% Cetyl palmitate 12,4% 12,4% Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (BEMT) 3% 3% Mineral oil 6% 6% Ethylhexyl triazone 4% 4% Nyamplung Oil 2,5% 2,5% Kendi oil 6% 6% Softolive 2% 2% Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax 2% 2% Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Glyceryl Stearate 4% 4% Tocopheryl acetate 0,1% 0,1% Glycerin 8% 8% PrimalHyal Gold 4% - This study was conducted on human skin explants from a 35 year old woman donor. Area measurements below the νoh vibration band between 3100-3600 cm -1 were used to measure the water content of the Stratum Corneum (SC) after 30 min and 8 hours. The following markers were followed over time: Total skin water at 3100-3600 cm -1 Free skin water at 3420-3620 cm -1 Results: PrimalHyal Gold allows an instant and long term hydration of skin. It increases by +45% the amount of total water in lips and +50% of free water, whereas the placebo totally loses its efficacy after 8 hours. *p<0.05 Student s t-test
Formulation A new way of formulating HA in oils For the very first time, PrimalHyal Gold offers you the possibility to work with HA in oils Add PrimalHyal Gold Surfactants: Polysorbate 85 and Laureth-4 10-15% Surfactants: PEG-8 caprylic/capric glycerides 5% Esters / Vegetable oils Lipophilic actives and perfumes Water 2-4 % A rich set of new ideas to incorporate active HA PrimalHyal Gold allows you to combine care with pleasure while offering the possibility of an easy incorporation into many anhydrous make-up formulas! Unveil your eyes beauty Eyeshadow MICA 10% Talc, Hydrogenated Lecithin 14% Ricesilk 3% Talc, Hydrogenated Lecithin 24% CI 77891, Hydrogenated Lecithin 40% Dimethicone, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate 5% PrimalHyal Gold 4% Enhance your body Golden oil PrimalHyal Gold 5% Polysorbate 85 11% PEG-8 caprylic/capric glycerides 5% Kendi oil 5% Neopentanoate Isodecyl 71% Water 3%
Summary Technical information INCI: Origin: Preservation: Appearance: Solubility: Water (and) PEG-8 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides (and) Octyldodeceth-25 (and) Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Propylene Glycol (and) Decylene Glycol Biotechnology Phenoxyethanol, Decylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol Incolor to pale yellow liquid Oil soluble Dosage: 4-5% Processing: Compatibilities: Temperature <85 C Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Laureth-4, Polysorbate 85, Octyldodeceth-25, PEG-8 caprylic/capric glycerides Vegetable oil less than 10% such as Kendi oil, Karanja oil, Argan oil, Macadamia oil, Evening primrose oil Esters Softalia, Soothex, Megassane, Costalane, Ellagi-C Claims Claims: Applications: Long term hydration, make-up care, active HA, All anhydrous formulas, make-up, mascara, foundation, press powders, body oils, sun care, serums, lips products, blush, Givaudan Active Beauty Sales Offices Europe Givaudan France SAS 17-23 rue de la Voie des Bans FR-95100 Argenteuil (France) Givaudan UK Ltd Magna House 76-80 Church Street Staines, TW18 4XR (United Kingdom) North America Givaudan Fragrances Corp. 40 W - 57 th Street - Floor 17 NY 10019 - New York (United States) Asia Pacific Givaudan Singapore Pte Ltd 1 Pioneer Turn 627576 Singapore (Singapore) Givaudan Shanghai Ltd 298 Li Shi Zhen Road Pudong Zhang Jiang High Tech Park 201203 Shanghai (China) Latin America Givaudan do Brasil Ltda Av. Engº Billings - 2185, Edificio 31, 1ºAndar - Jaguaré 05321-010 São Paulo - SP (Brazil) global.cosmetic@givaudan.com The data in this document ( Data ): (i) has been prepared by Givaudan in accordance with Givaudan s internal protocols and procedures; (ii) is provided to Customer for its information and internal use only; (iii) is provided without warranty of any kind, including, without limitation, any implied warranty of accuracy, merchantability, fitness for particular purpose or non-infringement of third party intellectual property rights. In no event shall Givaudan be liable to Customer or any third party for any losses, indemnities or damages of any kind (including, without limitation, any and all direct, special, indirect, incidental, or consequential damages or lost profits or revenues) that may arise out of, or in connection with, the use of the Data by Customer. Customer is solely responsible for assessing the accuracy and reliability of the Data for its own purposes (including, without limitation, Customer s end-use applications), and assumes all risks and liabilities arising out of or in connection with the use of the Data. LEAFLET-PRIMALHYAL GOLD-06.17 www.givaudan.com