The Hair Stylist s Reference Statement of Attainment Hair & Make-up Stylist Student name: Class group: Facilitator/s: Product code 5616
Retro Dames Retro Dames Retro Dames Statement of Attainment Hair and Make-up Stylist. The Hair Stylist s Reference. Page 3 of 56.
Table of contents Acknowledgements... 6 Course/resource developers and contributors... 6 Copyright notice... 6 Introduction... 7 Statement of Attainment: Hair & Make-up Stylist... 7 Statement of Attainment purpose... 7 The Hair Stylist s Reference... 7 How do I use this reference?... 7 Hairdressing units... 7 About the unit selection... 8 Reference topics... 8 Customer care and safety for stylists... 8 The essential Hair Stylist s toolbox... 9 Key considerations for successful hair design... 10 Design elements... 10 Design principles... 10 Ornamentation... 10 Face shapes... 10 Dry hair to shape... 12 Tools and techniques for drying hair to shape... 12 Key techniques to support successful hair styling... 13 Hair preparation... 13 Techniques: Support tips and tricks... 13 Back combing/brushing, clever pinning and padding... 14 The perfect pony tail... 15 Statement of Attainment Hair and Make-up Stylist. The Hair Stylist s Reference. Page 4 of 56.
The Hair Stylist s essential design components... 17 Braiding... 17 Look, learn and do: Two (2) strand overlap braid... 18 Look, learn and do: Three (3) strand overbraid... 20 Look, learn and do: Three (3) strand underbraid... 22 Look, learn and do: Fishtail (herringbone)... 24 Look, learn and do: Rope twist... 25 Look, learn and do: Corn rows (tradititonal)... 26 Look, learn and do: Corn rows (corn row effect)... 27 Key components of classic hair designs... 28 Look, learn and do: Loops, rolls and barrel curls... 29 Look, learn and do: Quiffs (a simple, effective quiffed look!)... 30 Look, learn and do: Twists... 31 Look, learn and do: Knots and pretzels... 32 Look, learn and do: Basket weaving... 33 Look, learn and do: Textured finishes waves, spikes and tousled ends... 34 The Hair Stylist s Reference: Putting it all together... 35 Classical design... 35 Look, learn and do: Traditional French roll... 36 Look, learn and do: Classic Beehive... 38 Look, learn and do: Victory roll... 41 Look, learn and do: Classic Chignon... 44 Creative design: Combining techniques... 48 Look, learn and do: Fusion Braids and pretzels... 49 Look, learn and do: Fusion Victory roll and loops... 51 Look, learn and do: Fusion Rope twist with chignon... 53 Statement of Attainment Hair and Make-up Stylist. The Hair Stylist s Reference. Page 5 of 56.
The essential Hair Stylist s toolbox Below is a list and picture reference of the essential items that our experts recommend you keep in your Hair Stylist s Toolbox. A range of clips and a selection of quality pins and elastics to secure and support your designs. Combs for detangling, sectioning, back combing and lifting and a latch hook etc. A range of brushes for blow drying hair to shape and dressing the hair into desired shapes/styles. Hot rollers, tongs, straighteners and crimpers, hair padding, extensions, wefts. Styling and finishing products and castor oil to support, smooth and polish designs. Seek further information through independent research and discussion with your class facilitator. Statement of Attainment Hair and Make-up Stylist. The Hair Stylist s Reference. Page 9 of 56.
Key considerations for successful hair design Key considerations when creating a hair design include: creating designs that reflect the design principles and elements; are balanced and correctly scaled for the client s overall physical (body) proportions including hair ornamentation that complements the design and the occasion (where desired) ensuring the design complements the client s face shape; their physical proportions; their personality; the occasion; and their overall wishes and requirements of the finished design Design elements Elements of design include: straight or curved lines, shape, direction, size, texture and colour. Design principles Principles of design include: balance, gradation, repetition, contrast, harmony, dominance and unity. Ornamentation Ornamentation may include but is not limited to: flowers, headbands, clips, crystals, netting, ribbons, veils and tiaras; any decorative piece that enhances the design and creates interest. Ornamentation featured throughout this resource created by Head Designer Kylie, from Zara Madison Designs. Face shapes The overall aim in any design is creating the illusion of the perfect face shape for your client; for female clients that is considered to be oval. Statement of Attainment Hair and Make-up Stylist. The Hair Stylist s Reference. Page 10 of 56.
Oval: Considered to be the perfect face shape. Aim: Any hairstyle will suit and complement this face shape. Consideration of the client s overall porportions and their profile will however still impact the design. Square: Equal width across the forehead and jawline; defined corners Aim: Create softness with wave and curl to lessen angular appearance. Add height and length to extend the length of the face. Fringes should be soft and assymetric. Oblong/rectangle: Longer, narrow face shape; a lengthened square shape Aim: Reduce height and length to shorten the face. Create width at the sides of the face. Soften with circular shapes, waves & curls. Fringes should be soft & assymetric. Round: Fuller, rounded face with equal width at forehead and cheeks. Aim: Create height and length to lenthen the face. Reduce width at the sides of the face. Straighter lines, and less volume is more complementary. Pear: Narrow at the forehead/temples; wider cheeks and jawline Aim: Create width at the temples and disuguise narrow forehead with fringe or hair swept acrosss assymetrically. Reduce width at the jawline. Diamond: Narrow at forehead, cheeks and jawline; width across the cheekbones Aim: Create width and volume at the temples and jawline to balance the strong cheekbone. Soften with circular shapes, waves & curls. Heart / inverted triangle: Width and height at forehead; narrow cheeks and jawline Aim: Reduce height at the top of head to minimise the forehead size. Soften with a fringe. Add weight to the jawline and circular shapes to soften. Seek further information through independent research and discussion with your class facilitator. Statement of Attainment Hair and Make-up Stylist. The Hair Stylist s Reference. Page 11 of 56.
Dry hair to shape The starting point for many designs is the inital drying and shaping of the hair. It is this critical step that ensures the hair is prepared to take the required shaping, setting and styling etc. to create an enduring, polished finish style. The key points to remember when drying hair to shape are: hair must be thoroughly wet through to remove any existing shape before commencing drying into the new shape; and thoroughly dry to retain the new shape hair hydrogen bonds are affected during wetting down and blow drying; they are strecthed out of their usual position to create a new shape which is only locked in when the hair is thoroughly dried hair undergoes tranformation in shape which is determined by the wetting and drying of the hair in the first step; then the heating and cooling of the hair in the second step new shape/s in the hair must be allowed to cool down before any further brushing or combing, otherwise the effect will be lost and the hair will drop out of the style. Tools and techniques for drying hair to shape Various tools and techniques can be used to dry hair to shape. They include but are not limited to flatter type brushes are used to smooth the hair to reduce/remove volume eg. Denman, vent, flat cushion or paddle brushes (unactivated texture) round brushes of various sizes create curl, waves, volume and movement (activated texture) blowdryers, diffusers and brushes can be used together to create styles of both texturessetting rollers, pin curls and moulding shape the hair while wall/hood dryers and heat lamps can be used to dry and set the shapes when used correctly, styling aids suitable to the purpose help to create the shapes desired and lock in the foundations of the finished style; finishing products dress the hair, provide a polished finish and enduring hold. Seek further information through independent research and discussion with your class facilitator. Statement of Attainment Hair and Make-up Stylist. The Hair Stylist s Reference. Page 12 of 56.
Key techniques to support successful hair styling Appropriate hair preparation is essential to ensure that you begin your hair design with the best chance of a successful outcome. Some key considerations and techniques underpin all great hair styles. Failure to prepare the hair correctly, and with respect to the finished design will undermine the style s foundations ; and will result in more difficultly styling, finishing, and reduced hold in your hair styles. Hair preparation Hair preparation will include but is not limited to: client s hair being shampooed/conditioned as per hair type and stylist instructions e.g. day before setting or blow drying wet hair to shape to create volume, smoothness or movement as required using thermal equipment to create tousled curls, ringlets, crimps, or all over volume/movement selecting and applying styling products to assist in achieving the desired foundation strength for the design and finished results. Techniques: Support tips and tricks Techniques that will underpin most classic hair design creations will include but are not limited to: backcombing purposeful, controlled backcombing pushing hair fibres down to the root base to create lift, strength and a base to pin into (as opposed to teasing to texturise the ends) clever pinning using the correct pin for the job and using pins in combination (e.g. pinning in a criss-cross method {zig-zag} or parallel lines {rail road method}) to create structural support; and ensuring pins are concealed in the finished design using padding - to provide bulk and shape where required by the design or where the shapes is unachievable using the client s own hair perfect pony tails securing sections of the hairstyle ensuring a smooth finish on the hair as it moves into the secured area (the end of a tail comb can be used to smooth the hair by lifting and drawing the outer hair over the surface without creating further bubbles or lumps); and ensuring the band is well covered so it is hidden in the finished design. Statement of Attainment Hair and Make-up Stylist. The Hair Stylist s Reference. Page 13 of 56.
Back combing/brushing, clever pinning and padding Here is a collection of images showing some key techniques that underpin all successful hairstyling. Technique Image Backcombing or back brushing purposeful, controlled backcombing (with a comb) or back brushing (as shown) pushing hair fibres down to the root base to create lift, strength and a base to pin into (as opposed to teasing to texturise the ends) used to create volume, fullnes and support Clever pinning using the correct pin for the job; using pins in combination zig-zag or rail road method (as shown) create support ensure pins are concealed in the finished design Padding to provide bulk and shape where required by the design where the shapes is unachievable using the client s own hair may be purchased pre made or make your own using a ball of wool; or try a stocking filled with wadding or cotton Seek further information through independent research and discussion with your class facilitator. Statement of Attainment Hair and Make-up Stylist. The Hair Stylist s Reference. Page 14 of 56.
The perfect pony tail The pony tail creates a base for many hairstyles as well as being a popular and enduring style in itself. Below are the tips and tricks used by stylists to create the perfect pony tail; smooth, sleek and secure. Step Image One: Prepare the hair. Ensure the hair is smooth and sleek to begin the pony tail. This can be achieved by directionally blow drying the hair smooth using smoothing styling aids and finishing with a shine spray or the smallest drop of castor oil to provide weigthless smoothing and shine. Two: Position your hand where you intend the ponytail to sit while brushing the hair and smoothing the surface to remove bumps and fluffy areas. A flat backed bristle brush or cushion brush, with bristles close together will help you to achieve the best results. Three: Gather the hair into one hand and continue to direct into the position the pony tail will sit on the head. Ensure all of the hair is smooth coming into the pony tail from the hair line to the area where the pony tail will be secured. Four: Attach 2 (two) bobby pins to a hair elastic or rubber band. The pins and elastic should match the client s hair colour as closely as possible so it will blend into the hair and not be seen. Insert the first pin to secure the elastic to the hair at the base of the pony tail. Statement of Attainment Hair and Make-up Stylist. The Hair Stylist s Reference. Page 15 of 56.
Step Image Five: Next, pass the free end of the elastic around underneath the gathered hair and bring it back over the top of the mesh. Six: Repeat steps five and six. Passing the elastic around the mesh, over and under again and again until the elastic is firm around the gathered hair and holding the weight of the hair. Seven: Secure the elastic in the tightened position by passing the free bobby pin into the hair and across the first pin that was inserted into the pony. This will secure the band and ensure the pin doesn t slip out of the hair. Eight: Smooth the hair that makes the pony tail to finish. Tip: If the pony tail is the finished style, or there is a chance the band will be exposed in the finished design; cover the elastic with a piece of hair from the pony tail by wrapping it over the band and securing with a pin. Statement of Attainment Hair and Make-up Stylist. The Hair Stylist s Reference. Page 16 of 56.
The Hair Stylist s essential design components Braiding Look, learn and do: Two (2) strand overlap braid Look, learn and do: Three (3) strand overbraid Look, learn and do: Three (3) strand underbraid Look, learn and do: Fishtail (herringbone) Look, learn and do: Rope twist Look, learn and do: Corn rows (tradititonal and corn row effect) Statement of Attainment Hair and Make-up Stylist. The Hair Stylist s Reference. Page 17 of 56.