Merging Technology with Intelligent IngredIenTs by rhonda Allison The saying, We ve come a long way baby has never been more apropos than it is now in the aesthetics industry. With the onset of consumer demand for more, more, more, there have been incredible strides in the field of rejuvenation. Long gone are the days of the simple facial cleanse, mask and moisturize today s clients want results. We have at our disposal everything from cosmeceutical enzymes and acids to a bevy of modalities using various technologies. Skin care professionals from spas and medical spas to clinical offices are using these technologies microdermabrasion, intense pulse light (IPL), laser, LED light therapy, radio frequency, needling and learning that combining them with peel treatments and highquality skin care products enhances the results as well as the recovery time. Because of this, the practice is also proving to be a savvy way to attract more clients. How do peels and skin care products enhance these technologies? Which make the biggest impact? How do you merge these technologies safely and effectively? 100 DERMASCOPE August 2012
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catalyzing change From the use of intelligent ingredients and advanced technologies, we are more equipped to transform the skin and provide clients the changes they desire. Technologies support the delivery and absorption of high-end ingredients more rapidly and effectively to the skin. In many cases, what used to take numerous treatments now might be cut in half. On the same token, certain ingredients and pre- and post-treatments will speed the recovery time and enhance the results of technologically advanced treatments. Nourishing and skin-fortifying formulas also aid in preventing any negative side effects of certain procedures like hyperpigmentation or excess inflammation. Today s market is highly competitive. Skin care professionals must be prepared to meet demands as well as differentiate themselves from the competition. Being able to deliver results more effectively and efficiently will keep clients coming back. The Art of the Peel Acids and enzymes I consider acid peeling more than just a science; it is an art form. As such, learning an art evolves with understanding and experience. Before you begin coupling peel treatments with other technologies, you must first be properly trained in administering peels, have an understanding of the various acid formulas and modalities available, and know how to read and understand skin. Chances are you have worked with, or at least heard of, many of the acids and enzymes for aesthetic use. These include AHAs, azelaic, salicylic, retinol, TCA, and resorcinol. When it comes to determining peeling depth, the duration, Fitzpatrick classification and technique will play a role, but the peeling agent used is one of the most important factors. There is an art to preparing acid formulations that requires a very specific understanding of acids. AHAs naturally occurring, nontoxic organic acids; the most commonly used include glycolic (from sugar cane) and lactic (from milk); Others include malic (apples), tartaric (grapes) and citric (citrus) acid. created by oxygenating oleic acid, an unsaturated fatty acid found in milk fats; this is used as a lightening, lifting and antibacterial agent. a beta-hydroxy acid extracted from wintergreen and birch; it is a relatively safe, low-risk acid, as it is self-neutralizing and produces a drying and lifting effect. Repeated applications in highstrength doses can result in systemic toxicity. a vitamin A derivative that converts to retinoic acid and is a DNA regulator; it assists in the synthesis of collagen, aids in the formation of blood vessels and encourages healthy cell formation. will penetrate only if it used in an aqueous base; it is nontoxic, self-neutralizing and keratolytic, and is very effective in low strengths. It can be used alone or in tandem with other acids. Jessner and red wine vinegar acid (acetic acid) also fall under the aesthetic-use category. Jessner is a combination of lower-strength acids (salicylic, resorcinol and lactic, all at 14 percent), which synergize to produce an efficient exfoliating 102 DERMASCOPE August 2012
agent with less risk. Red wine vinegar (acetic acid) is an all-natural acid with high antioxidant content. The theory (though not proven) is it produces exfoliation with less free-radical damage, and thus causes less injury to the skin. Often pre-treating the skin with an AHA, melanin suppressant or light peel (prior to rendering one of the technologically advanced treatments) will enhance the results. Of course it depends on the level of the treatment. For instance, if it is a fairly deep laser treatment, you will want to wait several months before giving a peel treatment. To Peel or not to Peel When it comes to skin rejuvenation, typically several treatments are needed depending on the severity of the skin damage before results are seen. However by layering technology with acids and enzymes, treatment frequency may often be cut in half. For instance, enzymes and acids used prior to a microdermabrasion treatment will aid in loosening the cells of the stratum corneum to complete the lifting process, and more effectively smooth and polish the skin. On the same token, the advantage to using an acid or enzyme after microdermabrasion is that it increases the penetration and prompts the formula to work harder to bring about more rejuvenation. As the skin care professional, it is up to you to assess and determine what is best for your client s skin. When it comes to layering or merging technologies, the most important thing to remember is you do not want to bring the skin to pinpoint bleeding or break the skin. If this occurs, acids or enzymes should not be used after. Layering is an advanced technique and requires proper training and knowing the potential implications of each step. When done appropriately, the results and overall effects are considerably noticeable. There are a few dos and don ts of skin peeling and layering to be aware of however: Do undergo appropriate training this is very important; Do a complete skin assessment and skin history on the client; Do perform a patch test at least 48 hours before treatment; Do know the parameters of your microdermabrasion machine or other technology, as not all modalities are meant to comingle; Do send clients home with care instructions; Do take before-and-after photos to track progress; Do manage expectations prior to starting a program; Never perform a peel on the first visit; Never perform a peel on a client using Retin-A or taking Accutane; Never conduct a peel if a client has received Botox or another injectable procedure that day; and Never apply an acid or enzyme if the skin is bleeding. Parlaying Intelligent Technologies and Ingredients Which skin care ingredients and advanced technologies work well together? This will of course vary depending on client s skin and the desired results you want to achieve, but typically pairing modalities with ingredients or products that purport similar results will enhance the outcome. With nearly one million microdermabrasion procedures performed last year, it is one of the most popular and frequently used modalities for skin rejuvenation. Its effects can be enhanced using ingredients that aim to lighten and gently retexturize and 104 DERMASCOPE August 2012
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One of the most popular procedures for healing and repair is combining LED (light emitting diodes) light therapy with a treatment to nourish and recharge the skin. The light intensifies the nutrients or corrective elements in the product to return skin to its youthful state. When used with certain acid formulations, it will boost the firming and toning benefits of LED, as well as enhance the cell turnover process. LED also supports the hydrating properties of certain ingredients like amino acids, hyaluronic acid, peptides and tocopherols, and can heal the skin from the inside out. Technologies like microcurrent are also much more effective when ingredients that gently retexturize are used one to two weeks before the procedure. Since microcurrent helps lift and tighten, ingredients like peptides will enhance the firming of the skin, creating a stronger effect from the microcurrent technology. regenerate the skin like L-arginine and L-mandelic acid. The same holds true for epidermal leveling (also known as dermaplaning). The treatment may also be intensified with combination of L-lactic acid, salicylic acid, papain enzyme, and acid enzyme blends, which will further exfoliate keratin and support tissue regeneration. Using it in combination with microdermabrasion or epidermal leveling will leave skin smooth, polished and rejuvenated. After any resurfacing procedure, a complex of antioxidants; essential vitamins B, C, D and K; along with potent building and fortifying extracts like growth factors will nourish, soothe, hydrate and strengthen the skin. Epidermal leveling is also great for clients using aggressive topicals like retinols, glycolic acid and high-strength salicylic acid. It accelerates the exfoliation of dead skin and cell turnover. Galvanic is used for applying treatment gels and enhancing circulation. Since chemical changes occur when the current passes through certain solutions, its main function during a facial is to introduce water-soluble products to the skin. During corrective facials, Galvanic may be used during the nourishment application, or at the end if you are using it with a finishing application such as growth factors or moisturizing ingredients. This procedure is not recommended For IPL (intense pulse light), Fraxel or Pixel laser procedures, when enzymes or light peels are applied as pretreatments, skin lightening and resurfacing are enhanced and the skin will also recover much quicker. Following a laser procedure, a post-care system focused of hydration, protection and nourishment can also accelerate the healing process tremendously. Non-irritating omega-6 essential fatty acids provide nutritional and moisturizing benefits, as well as hinder the growth of bacteria and help increase skin thickness. Other ingredients like resveratrol, vitamin C and E will provide antioxidant support. Thermus thermophilus ferment, apple stem cell and other deep-sea algae extracts also aid in preventing pigmentation, which can be one side effect of laser. 106 DERMASCOPE August 2012
during peel treatments, but does work well with nourishing ingredients such as peptides, vitamin C, growth factors, hyaluronic acid, and D-boldine a powerful antioxidant. The Power of Intelligent Ingredients: While matching the right formulas with the right procedure will impact results, so too will the quality of the formulation. Today, the idea of intelligent skin care has become an important issue in the treatment room. This represents the merging of timetested, proven ingredients and scientific advancements to produce higher quality, results-oriented cosmeceutical formulas. On that note, ingredient purity will also impact a product s efficacy significantly. A few intelligent skin care ingredients include organic stem cells, which are extracted from plant and apple stem cells and have the ability to promote longevity in human cells; newgeneration peptides, including one from Matrixyl called Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38; thermus thermophilus ferment; retinol; epidermal growth factor (EGF); and resveratrol, to name a few. Also be sure to select products that are free of dyes and fragrances, which can often have a negative effect on the skin. Using technologies in the treatment room without the support of good skin care is like an artist trying to paint without paint. It is only half the picture. Skin care finishes the canvas and reveals youth, radiance and glow. In this everchanging market skin care professionals cannot afford to be without paint or their brushes! Rhonda Allison, a pioneer in the skin care industry, is the founder and CEO of Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals and RAW Skin Care for Men. She is also an author and internationally known speaker with more than 30 years aesthetic experience. www.rhondaallison. com and www.rawmethod.com August 2012 DERMASCOPE 107