Hair Coloring Hair Dyeing

Review Article RGUHS J Med Sciences, Vol 8(1), 13-17, January 2018 ISSN (Print) : 2231-1947 DOI: 10.26463/rjms/2018/v8/i1/121003 Hair Coloring Hair Dyeing K. Hanumanthayya 1, G. Balasubrahmanyam 2, Menakaa Mohan 3, Sunitha Mohan 3 and N. Nikhil 3 1 Professor and Head, Department of Dermatology, Vydehi Institute of Medical Sciences & Research Centre, Bangalore 560066, Karnataka, India; kelojihan123@rediffmail.com 2 Assistant Professor, Department of Dermatology, Vydehi Institute of Medical Sciences & Research Centre, Bangalore 560066, Karnataka, India 3 Junior Residents, Department of Dermatology, Vydehi Institute of Medical Sciences & Research Centre, Bangalore 560066, Karnataka, India Abstract History of the coloring of the gray hairs can be traced back to Sumerians and Pharaohs 2000 BC. Women in the past used hair colors to hide their gray hairs. Today men are also applying hair color to hide their gray hairs and younger people color their hair as a fashion. The discovery of paraphenylenediamine and better understanding of chemistry of hair dyes have resulted in safe and customer friendly products. Now men and women can apply the hair dyes in their own home in just one easy step 30-45 minutes. Keywords: Hair, Hair Dye, PPD, Hydrogen Peroxide Introduction The scalp has the most striking feature for every person. For a long time, hair has been considered more than just a biological feature, and is more often center of beautification. For women, hair is an ornament that has transformed their beauty at higher level. Black hair symbolizes the younger age, youthfulness, energy and active life. As we grow older, hair turns gray and silver white. Graying becomes visible when 20% of black hair turns gray. Hence gray hair and white hair symbolizes the old age, sluggish and inactive life. Today everyone wants to look younger, energetic, enthusiastic and visually appealing to other people. Hence they hide gray hair by applying color to the hair and this process is called Hair coloring Hair dyeing. Hair coloring is more for cosmetic reason and to hide their gray hairs by people. Often, younger people color their hair as a fashion. Hair coloring was done earlier by hair dressers at saloon. Today hair coloring is very simple, user friendly and can be done at their house in 30-40 minutes. History of Hair Coloring Human s use of hair dye traces back to the beginning of civilization. The extraordinary history of hair color can be traced back to Sumerians who lived in 2000 BC. Nobel Sumerians used to color their gray hairs with golden dye, using silver or gold combs. Ancient Egyptians, Romans, and Greeks began to use hair color regularly which was made from plant and animal extracts. Egyptian women in 1500 BC, colored their hair using henna plant extracts. The Romans believed that hair dyeing and coloring was a symbol of woman s eroticism, and highlighted her gracefulness and elegancy. By 27 BC, hair dye became a much accepted trend, and both men and women in Rome used color hair as a way of enhancing their looks and appearance. Roman Empire insisted prostitutes to color their hair yellow or to wear yellow colored wig to indicate their profession. Prostitutes were coloring their hair with ashes of burnt plants, flowers and nuts to achieve a yellow hue. Hair dyes were made using henna (Lawsonia inermis), indigo, Cassia obovata, senna, turmeric, amla, crushed nut Author for Correspondence : K. Hanumanthayya Professor and Head, Department of Dermatology, Vydehi Institute of Medical Sciences & Research Centre, Bangalore 560066, Karnataka, India; kelojihan123@rediffmail.com

shells, berries, and vinegar [4]. Red hair dye was prepared by fermenting leeches in vinegar for two months. This mixture was applied on the hair and then exposed to the sun for hours to get red hue. Eighteen Books on the Secrets of Art and Nature published in 1661 explained various methods of coloring hair black, gold, green, red, yellow, and white. In 1860s, hydrogen peroxide was a common option for hair bleaching. With time, this came to be known as blond dye, until the 1930s. Hydrogen peroxide was used along with other ingredients such as ammonia and soap powder. This combination damaged the hair, and burnt the scalp. Soon this combination became less popular. Hair coloring and dying took a major leap when paraphenylenediamine (PPD) was discovered by August Wilhelm in 1863. This was the magic substance that was used in creating the first synthetic dye. PPD along with Hydrogen peroxide, which was a gentler option for hair bleaching, together led to a major invention. The invention of this synthetic dye PPD resulted in further research and development in hair colors. In 1932, a New York chemist Lawrence Gelb, created a hair dye that would actually penetrate the shaft of the hair without harming the shaft of hair. Today women could lighten, color, shampoo, and condition their hair in just one easy step, in 30-45 minutes [1]. Anatomy of Hair Healthy hair is pigmented, smooth, glossy, flexible and also strong. The healthy hair withstands shearing forces. The hair which is visible to eyes on the scalp is called hair shaft. The part of the hair which is inside the skin is called hair root. The shaft is the hard filamentous part that extends above the skin surface. The glossiness of hair depends upon the smooth layering of the cuticle and the strength depends on the integrity of the cortex. The cortex is made up of 15% hard keratin (skin contains 2% keratin). The healthy hair surface has a ph of 4.5 to 5.5. This acidic ph helps to keep cells of the cuticle closely opposed to the cortex. A cross section the hair shaft may be divided into three zones. They are 1) Cuticle 2) Cortex 3) Medulla (Figure 1). The cuticle consists of 6-8 layers of flat, thick, colorless closely adherent cells laid out overlapping one another as roof shingles. The individual cuticular cells are made up of proteins, lipids and polysaccharides. The cuticular cells closely overlap on one another; only one-sixth of each surface is exposed. The open ends of the overlapping cuticular cells are directed away from the scalp, toward the growing tip. The cuticular cells are hydrophobic and provide first line defense against water and other environmental harsh chemicals. An intact well organized cuticle protects the hair and directs the water to run along the shaft from scalp downwards. The function of cuticle is like that of stratum corneum of the epidermis, barrier function [2]. The cortex lies immediately beneath the cuticle and forms the major component of human hair. Cortex consists of fusiform spindles cells of 100 microns long, arranged longitudinally. Each spindle cell has keratin bundles within a cysteine rich matrix. Disulfide bonds between the cysteine residues within the cortex are strongest and structurally the most important bonds that hold the keratin protein together. Disulfide bonds are responsible for the shape of the hair. The cortex contains keratin bundles in cell structure along with hair coloring material called melanin. All natural color of hair is due to melanin granules present in colorless keratin bundles. There are two types of melanin called 1) Eumelanin and 2) Pheomelanin. In India eumelanin is the dominant pigment present in hairs and gives black color to the hairs. Pheomelanin is dominant color in Europeans and gives red hair. As the person grows older, melanin production decreases and stops. The hair shaft with no melanin loses its natural color and turns gray - to - white color of old age. The medulla is an open area at the fiber s center. It contains specialized cells rich in glycogen and citrulline. In between these cells air spaces are present and are called fauces. Medulla is present in the thick hairs only, as the person grows older, slowly medulla disappears. The structure of healthy hair is perfectly designed and outermost layer is smooth and well protected. It dries quickly when wet and resists diffusion of water into the cortex. This maintains the structural integrity of the hair [3]. Hair dye or hair color is a chemical substance that is used to change the color of hair. Hair dye is used mostly to hide gray hair by elderly people. Young people apply hair dye to change their hair color as a fashion [4,5]. Chemistry of Hair Dye Figure 1. Healthy shaft with normal cuticle, cortex and medulla. 14 Vol 8(1), January 2018 www.rjms.in Modification of the hair color can be achieved by two RGUHS J Med Sciences

methods. They are removal of existing melanin pigment from hair called bleaching and addition of artificial pigment via application of a hair dye. In the 1860s, hydrogen peroxide was used for bleaching hairs. Hydrogen peroxide was oxidizing melanin pigment and lighten the intensity of black color; the hairs were becoming light colored. Hence it was called blond dye. In 1907, Eugene Schuler, a French chemist, developed an innovative hair color formula and called it Aureole. This name was later changed to L Oreal. L Oreal became very famous with Parisian hairdressers and soon it became household product, and women started applying hair dye in their home. The hair colors can be classified into 4 types. 1) Temporary hair color, 2) Permanent hair color, 3) Semi-Permanent, 4) Demi-Permanent 1. Temporary Hair Color The pigment molecules are large and cannot penetrate the outer cuticle layer. The color particles remain adsorbed (closely adherent) to the hair shaft and are easily removed with 1 or 2 shampooing (Figure 2). Dye molecules only coat the hairs, it is physical action. The dye molecules do not penetrate the hair shaft; hence there is no chemical action. There is no damage to the hair. These are the least hazardous of all dyes. Vegetable dyes like Henna is very popular dye and is used throughout the World. Henna coats the shaft of hair and increases the thickness of hair shaft. Repeated application of henna improves the hair shaft and do not damage the hair. Henna is obtained from shrubs found in North Africa and the Middle East: Lawsonia alba, L. spinosa and L. intermis. Figure 2: The temporary hair dye has colored only the cuticle of hair shaft; molecular size is bigger, not entered cortex, hair shaft is healthy. The henna dye is obtained from dried leaves. The active principle is an acidic naphthoquinone (Lawsone). Traditionally, henna is applied as thick paste pack, which is left in situ for 20-30 minutes, then washed. The effect of henna dye last for up to 10 weeks. This process is non-toxic but messy. Similarly extracts of flowers, leaves, fruits and walnut are used to color the hairs. Food grade dyes are also used. Henna powder is mixed with indigo leaves and other ingredients. 2. Permanent Hair Color The most popular dye products give permanent hair color. They are easily available, user friendly, range of colors and they color the hairs for 2-3 months. They are also called synthetic organic dyes and oxidative dyes. Permanent hair coloring dyes consist of three components. They are a) Primary intermediates and couplers, coloring agent, b) Oxidants (Hydrogen peroxide) and c) An alkali usually ammonia. The modern permanent dyes consist of Paraphenylenediamine (PPD or similar Para compounds like para-toluenedimine, and para-aminophenol) as primary intermediates and Resorcinol as couplers. Hydrogen peroxide oxidizes colorless Paraphenylenediamine dye to colorful chemical and also lightens melanin. Ammonia causes cuticle to swell and rise from cortex and also creates few openings, through these openings oxidized PPD dye enters cuticular layer and reach cortical cells. Once oxidized PPD dye accumulates in cortical cells, and it gives color to hair shaft. Once the PPD dye has entered the cortical cells, it cannot be dislodged from the hairs even 15-20 times washes with shampoo. Hence PPD dye is called Permanent hair dye. Alkaline ammonia action continues to act on hair, swelling and rising of cuticle cells continues, hence it is to be neutralized by acidic rinse or to be washed by shampoo, then only ammonia action stops. If ammonia action is not neutralized, hair damage continues and hair becomes brittle and dry. Everyday 0.1 mm hair grows, on 10 th day, 1 mm hair grows, and this newly grown hair will not have this new pigment. Hence permanent hair dye is to be applied once in 2 or 3 months. The newly growing hair from root will be devoid of color; hence touch-up of dye to roots is required to have satisfactory color. 3. Semi-Permanent Hair Dyes- Semi-permanent hair dyes coat the hair shaft rather than penetrate. They do not change melanin. Heat is used to deepen the color penetration rather than the use of chemicals like ammonia and hydrogen peroxide. The color lasts for 4-6 weeks (6-12 shampoo wash). They do not harm the hair as Permanent hair dye harms the hair (Figure 3). These are water soluble, non-ionic, low molecular mixture of pre-formed dyes. They are usually anthraquinone, aromatic amines or aminonitrobenzenes, and may other dyes to give the required shade. The product Vol 8(1), January 2018 www.rjms.in RGUHS J Med Sciences 15

is applied to shampoed and towel dried hair, left on for 20 minutes and rinsed off. A conditioner can be used after shampooing the hair, and then dye can be applied. before one buys a product, and follow the instructions of manufacturer. It is necessary to use products from trusted brands that do not use many harmful chemicals. It may cost some extra money. It is necessary always to color hair in well lit and well ventilated areas only. Hair Dyes Available in Market Figure 3: Semi permanent dye has entered the cuticle and stained the hair cortex; molecular size of the stain is smaller, negligible damage to hair shaft. Fig.4 Ammonia has opened cuticular cells and allowed hydrogen peroxide 4. Demi-Permanent Hair Dye- Demi-permanent hair dye falls between the semi-permanent and permanent dye process. It uses a catalyst such as a 2% mild peroxide developer with a non-ammonia alkali to swell the cuticle, allow dye molecules to penetrate into the cortex and deposit color inside the hair shaft (Figure 4). A neutral or slightly acid after-rinse or shampoo wash is used to stop the alkaline swelling reaction, allow the cuticle to close, and trap the color molecules inside. The mild chemical reaction does not lighten the melanin and hardly changes the hair structure [6-8]. Precaution Figure 4: Ammonia has opened cuticular cells and allowed hydrogen peroxide and permanent stain to enter the hair cortex, H2O2 has lightened the existing melanin pigment, permanent stain has combined with lightened melanin and produced color to the hair. Cuticular cells are damaged. Hair dye reactions are most commonly present as allergic contact dermatitis or irritant contact dermatitis. Less common side effects are Photoallergic dermatitis, dye induced depigmentation. Hair dyes change the texture of the hair shaft, making it coarse and dull. Uncommon reactions include lymphomatoid reaction, erythema multiforme, and anaphylaxis. In such a situation it is always necessary to conduct a patch test before one uses any coloring products. Small amount has to be applied on right forearm, volar aspect (front) or behind the ear lobule and watch for 48 hours for the signs of irritation or allergy. If no untoward effects develop, then only the coloring products can be used on the scalp. It is always necessary to read the ingredients list Today Indian market is full of hair coloring products. They range from Rs 15 to 200 to 2000 Rs. They are user friendly and entire process will be over by 30 to 45 minutes. They are safe also. Few of the popular brands in Indian market are L OREAL Paris Clairol Natural instincts GARNIER Olia Brilliant Matrix BBLUNT Naturint Revlon Godrej rich cream Dabur Vatica Schwarzkopf Nupur mehendi Shahnaz Husain Colorveda natural hair color Biotique Bio Henna fresh powder hair color Habib s Henna Wella Kolestrix Streax VLCC Ayurvedic henna Side Effects Nature s Essence natural hair color Burgundy Lush Henna coca burn Khadi natural henna Banjar s black henna Today the hair dyes available in India are good and if patch test is performed and then used, it is safe practice. Side effects are seen sometimes, if poor quality hair dye is used, not applied properly, over treating, and under treating. Allergic reactions, irritation to dye are noted. Repeated use of permanent hair dye may damage hairs [9]. The allergen in hair dye is PPD. The most common symptoms include itchy scalp, redness and swelling in the scalp, mild dandruff, swelling around the eyes and eyelids, and scaly skin around eyes, nose and face. Scalp skin may become irritable and will not allow combing the hairs. If patient is suffering from allergic skin problems or asthma, flare up of these lesions may happen. If caution is not taken while applying hair dye, hair dye may trickle into eye and conjunctivitis and keratoconjunctivitis may develop. The alkaline action of ammonia has to be neutralized immediately, otherwise hair damage will continue and hair 16 Vol 8(1), January 2018 www.rjms.in RGUHS J Med Sciences

will lose lustiness and silkiness, and may become rough and break. Laboratory experiments have proven that PPD can damage human DNA cells and cause cancer. But, small amount of PPD found in hair dyes is capable of causing cancer is not yet established [10]. Resorcinol is another chemical present in hair colors. It is an endocrine abnormality disrupting chemical that can increase the risk of breast cancer by disrupting the natural balance of hormones. References 1. Sherrow V. Encyclopedia of Hair: A Cultural History; Greenwood Press: Westport, CT, USA, 2006. 2. Wolfram LJ. Human hair: A unique physicochemical composite. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2003: 48:106 40. 3. Horvath AL. Solubility of structurally complicated materials: 3. Hair Sci World J. 2009; 9:255 71. 4. Feughelman M. Morphology and properties of hair. In, Hair and Hair Care; Johnson D H, Ed; Marcel Dekker: New York, NY, USA; 1977. 5. Madnani N and Khan K. Hair cosmetics. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol 2013; 79:654-67 6. Morel OJX and Christie RM. Current trends in the chemistry of permanent hair dying. Chem Rev. 2011; 111:2537 61. 7. Bouillon C and Wilkinson JD. The Science of Hair Care; Taylor & Francis: Boca Raton, FL USA; 2005. 8. David AR and de Berker. Hair Cosmetics. In: Rook s Textbook of Dermatology. Vol 3. 9 th edn. John Wiley; 2016. p. 71 89. 9. Handa S, Mahajan R and De D. Contact dermatitis to hair dye: An update. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2012; 78:583 90. 10. Shafer N, Shafer RW, Potential of carcinogenic effects of hair dyes. N Y State J Med. 1976; 76:394 6. Vol 8(1), January 2018 www.rjms.in RGUHS J Med Sciences 17