New Denim Embroideries Denim S/S 18 Vogue US Brands are incorporating imaginative, pictorial embroidery into denim for a theatrical direction, resulting in elaborate and expressive designs with a handcrafted, art-school aesthetic.
Analysis Vlone Fort Lonesome Decorative embroidery has been a huge trend for denim over the past few seasons, and shows no sign of slowing for S/S 18. As brands seek out more intricate looks, garment finishes provide progressive technology to match up with catwalk collections, with high-density looks appearing across mass-market sectors. Gucci, Stella McCartney and Dior drive the trend at catwalk level, providing new themes such as mystical creatures, psychic symbols and ornate dragons as updates to last season's large-scale animal motifs and statement looks. Independent maker Lot, Stock & Barrel has teamed up with mass-market online retailer asos.com to create special festival packages, which demonstrate the scalability of cool, niche artworks. Sitting in line with the overriding 1980s and 1990s trends, vintage-inspired looks evolve with a more contemporary spin that nods to the thrifted sportswear looks of brands such as Guess and Ralph Lauren. @ftlonesome @gucci
Mystical Creatures Fort Lonesome ASOS x Lot Stock & Barrel Gucci Fort Lonesome Animal graphics collide with a spiritual vibe in this new youth market direction for denim embroideries. Fierce forest creatures emerge as a key graphic direction, evolving from last season's tropical wildlife, tigers, and the overall trend for enlarged animals. Mystical wolves and other big cats combine with snakes and spiritual elements in central back placements.
Psychic Symbols Bliss & Mischief Fort Lonesome Elle Mexico In line with the season's mystical themes, designers explore spiritual imagery. Psychics, tarot card reading and Egyptian hieroglyphics emerge as a directional move-on from the more typical symbols seen in interpretations of this theme in past seasons. Illustrated characters are combined with psychic symbols such as water, doves, crosses and hands. @goodfornothingembroidery
Ornate Asian @lockhartembroidery Gucci @supremenewyork BODE Chinese dragons provide inspiration for directional labels such as Gucci and Supreme, layered on everything from jackets to shirts and as placements on jeans. Consider largescale motifs that take over the back of jackets and incorporate other imagery such as eyes or florals, which are cleverly weaved together. Layering embroideries over jacquard bases create a luxe look.
Placement Florals Bliss & Mischief Bliss & Mischief Gucci The season's exotic florals evolve for S/S 18 with a more subtle approach. Blooms are fixed with considered placements on elbows, side seams or sporadically on backs and jean hems. Motifs become more intricate, as garment finishes develop high-density embroideries that combine a mix of colour and decorative form. Saint Laurent
Picture Perfect @ftlonesome Fort Lonesome Bliss & Mischief A theme explored in WGSN's HumaNature forecast report sees stunning landscapes appear on denim assortments. This youthful trend is a key direction for S/S 18, and works well for casual transseasonal and festival looks. Motifs such as seascapes and mountains are depicted in a naive or abstract style, with electric hues evoking dream-like escapism. Denim Premiere Vision
Sheer Layers Maison Margiela Maison Margiela Bershka The trend for sheer and transparent layers drives designers to explore the concept in combination with embroidery. Organza and tulle panels are delicately layered with fine stitching in multicolour threads, and sometimes in combination with embellishments. Consider using this design on jean panels, as well as back panels and sleeves on jackets. Hanna Karlsson
Naive Stitch Gucci Kapital Dry Clean Only A crafty attitude is created with homespun stitch techniques such as cross-stitch and darning. Artistic florals and tigers are created using clever cross-stitching that combines a variety of colours in block patterns to create a glitchy appearance. Kapital uses a mix of base materials such as canvas, felt and dense embroideries to create a more eclectic look. Remi Relief
Hell Raiser ASOS x Lot Stock & Barrel @lotstockandbarrel asos.com A fun festival story sees brands look to ghoulish skeletons and fiery flames. Animated takes on skeletons gives them a playful feel that's more 1990s skater than heavy metal. Consider clever placements for flames that contour along seams of back panels and sleeve cuffs. WWD
Retro Logo South by Southwest ASAP Rocky x Guess Palace @balenciaga Brands add throwback style to embroideries, borrowing from the thrift style of the 1980s and 1990s logos. Guess dips into its archive while brands such as Palace and Balenciaga have their own parody takes on the trend. Vintage American sports logos in vibrant threads become popular among the youth market, as highlighted in the True Moto emerging trend report.
Storytelling Tokyo Hyein Seo Aleali May Last season's doodles evolve with a cleaner and more sophisticated look. Text develops into longer phrases, while short, snappy quotes are applied in ornate scrolls or block font styles. Consider clever placements along sleeves, on trouser cuffs, or in prominent positions on the chest. Gucci
The Remix Noah Ava Nirui Off-White A trend driven by experimental artists such as Ava Nirui and James Merry sees classic logos upcycled with decorative florals. Using the logo as a base, embroideries are cleverly placed on and around the font form. Ava Nirui playfully adapts the Champion logo into Christian Dior's iconic look, reflecting the current play between high fashion and street style. James Merry
Random Threads NSS Magazine @diesel Alexander McQueen An unfinished look emerges for S/S 18 denim. Designers take a haphazard approach, with naive stitching and loose threads applied in random ways. The look works best when vibrant threads are used over a dark base, with floating stitches adding texture. Per Götesson