INSPIRATION There are eras in the last century whose fashion and attitude we reflect upon and romanticize. The Roaring Twenties is definitely one of them. Through their adventurous spirit, the ladies of this period shaped the idea that anything and everything was possible and helped pave the way for woman s liberation. The most celebrated female model of the Twenties is The Flapper. The flapper had an undeniable and irresistible allure. She was a chic woman who celebrated her femininity and embraced what the world had to offer. She enjoyed the freedom of expression and made more daring choices in fashion. She cropped her hair short and wore bolder, more vibrant clothing designs. She rejoiced in her independence and beauty. In Senscience s newest collection the flapper phenomenon is revived. Here we pay tribute to the woman who started a fashion revolution and changed history. 2 3
CLARA DAISY COCO 4 5
CLARA Clara Bow was the first It Girl. She came to personify the Roaring Twenties and is often heralded as the first sex symbol. She was confident, determined and ambitious and quickly became the most sought after actress in Hollywood. In this look, we have updated the starlet s signature curls with a modern twist. Through soft perming techniques and emboldened color, we bring to life a classic cut line that can be kept equal on both sides or dramatically modernized using our scissor over comb techniques. Either way, you will become the It Girl of today. 6 7
C U T & C O L O R T E C H N I C A L S START BEFORE 01 Start by choosing the Zotos Perm which best suits your client s hair. With the pre-perm solution, damp the hair down. 02 Section from the crown to the front area and clip out of the way. 03 Choose the correct rod size for the volume and density of the hair you are working on. Place your first rod into the hair dropping it away from the root area as shown. 04 Continue down the head, stacking the rods until you reach the ear. At this stage the rod will now sit flush with the scalp. Complete through the back area. 05 View of first rod placements finished from top angle. 06 Release the crown and top hair. You will begin to spiral wind small sections in rows laying on top of the stacked perm area. 07 Continue to build this spiral shape throughout the hair until all the hair is completed. Proceed to damp down with your appropriate perm lotion and time as necessary. CUT 08 View from top. When perm has reached its optimum curl, follow instructions for rinsing and neutralizing to compete the process. NOTE: In our finished look with have gone for a very modern concept with a short side cut. If you want this look to be completed on both sides, then work ALL the hair into your permed shape. But, should you wish to follow the model image, leave hair out of perming that you want to cut short! 01 Once the perming service is complete, the cutting can begin. It is important to have the perm movement in place before we begin our cut so that we can work with the new texture and also soften the movement out. Start at the back of the nape from center to side. Take your first section and, working vertically, chose your length (allowing for the lift of the perm) and cut a straight line. 02 Continue to work up the head, shape lifting your graduation out as you go for ultimate body and lift. 03 As you pass the occipital bone, you will decrease the amount of lift to build the weight of your shape. Continue in this manner. Now bring the hair from the side and the front back into your original shape. 04 Continue until you run out of hair. Keep your sections evenly damp and with strong tension. Your perm will bounce back, but a firm hand will ensure your shape. 05 It is at this stage, if you have left an area for cropping short, that you will scissor over comb through this area. If you are keeping an even shape on both sides, cross check through. You are now ready for color. 8 9
T E C H N I C A L S NOTE: The permed area for Clara was colored using a demi permanent color range (i.luminate on this model). For the cropped area we used i.color. COLOR COLOR FORMULA: Formula 1: 5M i.luminate Formula 2: 7NC i.color with 20 volume 01 Massage Senscience Curl Activate energizing creme through the hair. Hair is now ready for drying. 02 Diffuse the hair, moving the head at an angle to allow the hair to sit away from the head. Let the hair sit in the diffuser rather than scrunching; this will encourage the waves to form in the top spiraled area. 03 If you are taking an area shorter, remember that you will have the options into the front fringe area. It can remain long and heavy or, keeping the hair evenly damp, you can slide cut from your shortest point down to the side of your longest point to release more of the curl. 10 11
DAISY The Daisy is a fun and eye catching way to dress up long hair while celebrating the flapper. Flappers loved using their feminine charms and standing out in a crowd. In this look, we use the natural hair as a head band while knotting the rest of the hair for abundant curl and volume. This design is bound to make waves and get people talking about what a style setter and risk taker you are. 12 13
S T Y L I N G T E C H N I C A L S START BEFORE 01 Begin by sectioning off both sides of the front hair form the temple down. Using a light combination of Thermal Design and Moisturizing Mist, begin to twist sections of the remaining hair until it bends back on itself to create a knot. Wrap this hair around its own base and continue throughout the head. 02 When all the sections are complete, put under a dryer for about 20 minutes with heat. Once this time has passed allow the hair to cool as you move back to the front remaining sections. 03 Remaining front areas. 04 With a light mist of the Thermal Design spray, smooth the two side areas with your Flat Iron. 05 Bring the two sides together in the middle of the forehead and secure. With a small elastic, pull down to hold a firm shape. 06 Now place a knot in the loose hair. 07 Pull this close and tight against the elastic. 08 Repeat this twice more. 09 Hold the knotted shape in place by splitting the two strands into three and braid the hair tight. 10 Braid hair down and then use a small clear elastic to finish the shape, allowing enough hair to remain out of the braid to fan out into a feather. 11 Take the hair and pass it through the elasticated area and back to the front. 12 Shows hair coming back through to front. 13 Now wrap the braid around the knot to the inside of the shape. 14 Secure shape with a bobby pin, allowing the plum of hair to stand off to the side. Now you can begin to unravel your knots. Rake them through with your fingers to keep a soft full shape, spraying with Designer flexible shaping spray as you go. Finish with Silk Finish and a light dusting of Brilliant Defense. 14 15
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COCO A style icon and one of the most influential women to come out of the Jazz Age, Coco Chanel paved the way for today s Haute Couture styles with her modernist thinking. We pay homage to her simplistic and practical designs in this look. Layers of strong outer shape and color come together in this new classic. Bold lines blend effortlessly with the texture, allowing the subtle flecks of violet to push through the layers and creating more striking dimension. 18 19
C U T & C O L O R T E C H N I C A L S CUT COLOR FORMULA: Formula 1: Active Lift and 20 Volume to pre-lighten Formula 2: 4CC i.color with 10 volume Formula 3: 3N i.color with 10 volume COLOR BEFORE 01 Once you have shampooed the hair with the appropriate Senscience shampoo, you are ready to begin your cut. Working through the center of the back, you will begin by choosing you length for your layer at the crown area. Remember that your initial length will determine the length for the rest of the cut. TIP Lift the hair at your chosen length and then follow it down to the nape with your figure before you cut. This way you can see what your end length will be. 02 Now that you have made your initial cut, follow down cutting at a 90 degree angle with the head shape. 01 Begin your color application by prelightening. In the fringe area place 3 to 4 foils back to back (according the density of color you wish to see). 02 Moving back to your original cutting position, place a foil vertically along your layers. Now pivoting in a pie shaped manner off of this original foil, place slices of lightener around the head shape spreading out from the crown. 03 Continue your line down until you reach the nape. Then, working with a traveling guide, continue across the back of the first side. Remember to cross check constantly as you work your sections towards the ear. On completion of the first quadrant in the back, repeat on the opposite side. You will now have a layered shape with a rounded edge. 04 Now that the back is complete you will move into the side area. Continue your layers through the sides which will complete the rounded outer shape to your cut. 05 When both sides are complete, move into the top area. Now connect the crown layer with the front area again, working with the head shape to take away any excess bulk. 06 Follow this through to the front of the hair line, rounding the shape out towards the face. You now have 75% of your cut finished and can dry off the hair to make it ready for your color application. 03 Here you can see the completed foil pattern. We have lifted them so you can see the pattern but they will lay flat once this is complete. Allow the lightener to lift to around a Level 8 gold. This will vary according to the base level of your client. 04 Once foils have lifted to correct level, shampoo and blow dry ready to receive the color. Now repeating your pattern, place 4VV formula into the foiled areas. Once complete, apply your base color to all remaining hair, timing for 35 minutes. 20 21
T E C H N I C A L S CUT 01 Once your color has been washed off, blow dry the hair using Smooth Gelee and a True Hue bead to create a soft smooth shape. Through the longer areas and where necessary, use Thermal Design spray and a flat iron vertically to finish the smoothing process. Now choosing your angle to move back from the face, hold your comb gently along the shape you are about to cut. Cut a line into the base of your haircut. 02 Follow this shape back to the nape. Repeat on opposite side. 03 Moving into the top area, separate a strong fringe area, allowing the rest of the hair to fall off to the side. Now lifting the hair with your comb, determine the length you wish your fringe to fall at and then cut into the fringe to create an unstructured line. 03 From the side area, move your scissors from the longest point at the cheek area and cut up towards your fringe, clearing any excess hair. This will help to strengthen the shape and open up the face shape. 04 With the remaining weight on the top area, clip into the hair and loosen the weight, allowing soft areas to fall over the top of your fringe. Cross check shape for detail, finish with Senscience products of your choice. 22 23
CLARA DAISY COCO 24 25
N O T E S N O T E S 26 27
senscience.com Senscience Intl., Dist. Division ZII, Darien, CT 06820 Printed in Canada HAIR: Martin Hillier COLOR: Kelly Baumgarner, Debbie Goodridge MAKEUP: Steven Carty PHOTOGRAPHER: Devin Karringten FOCUS PULLER: Trevor Butt Shot with RED Camera 01574