active Let s talk actives. beauty issue 3
Intro Sustainable consumption is something consumers have been paying close attention to in recent years. Inevitably beauty brands must follow the rhythm of consumers and are forced to prove their environmental credentials and demonstrate they can be trusted with the future of the planet. Amongst those demanding sustainability, Millennials seem to have the loudest voice. This group was brought up in the age of global warming and they understand very clearly what negligent consumption can do to the environment. Since Millennials are the largest living generation with increasing purchasing power, sustainable product offerings are now a requirement if brands hope to thrive in the future. At Gattefossé, we challenge ourselves each year to enlarge our sustainable ingredient portfolio, in order to help beauty brands create innovative yet sustainable cosmetics. Issue 3 of Active Beauty is all about sustainability. The next few pages will reveal eco-age fighting, food inspired, and less is more ingredients. 1)
In this issue: Eco age-fighters p. 5 Foodie beauty p. 11 Less is MORE p. 19 Formulation Corner p. 27 2)
Addressing Consumer s Desire.. 55% of all female shoppers read ingredient labels prior to purchase 1 62% of millennial women read ingredient labels prior to purchase 1 57% of consumers say fresh, natural, and/ or organic ingredients are influential purchase drivers 2 of consumers say they are willing to pay more 66% for sustainable brands 2 73% of millennials believe it is important to choose natural beauty products 1 15% of women who shop for beauty aids in mass drug, specialty drug, grocery stores or department stores are unsatisfied by the selection of all-natural products 1
..For A More Sustainable Future 1998 is the year Paul Anastas and John Warner developed the 12 Principles of Green Chemistry a revolutionary philosophy that seeks to place more focus on environmental impacts of all chemistries, including cosmetic chemistry 3 2004 is the year RSPO was established to promote the production and use of sustainable palm oil for People, Plant and Prosperity 4 2015 Gattefossé obtained the exclusive right to develop and commercialize breakthrough actives using NaDES (Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents) technology 2010 Gattefossé became a member of RSPO, to support conscientious and responsible palm oil producers and cooperatives 2017 Gattefossé launched Gatuline Link n Lift, the first active based on NaDES extraction technology
Eco-age fighters active beauty 5) Since the dawn of time, nature has found ways to adapt to many challenges. For example, a single horse chestnut tree can thrive for over 300 years, even in tough environmental conditions. 5 The ability of many naturally occurring species to adapt makes them an interesting source of inspiration for cosmetic ingredients. Coincidentally, flowers from horse chestnut trees were used to develop Gattefossé s newest award winning active, Gatuline Link n Lift. Despite all the natural inspiration that surrounds us, ingredient chemistry has been predominately focused on creating new compounds, which are not always naturefriendly. Recently, the negative environmental impact of certain ingredients has come to light and consumers have begun asking for greener alternatives. They are demanding products that are free from, naturally derived and even organic certified. These greener alternatives must still be as desirable and effective as their synthetic counterparts. The next few pages will reveal powerful age fighting ingredients that can be used to create greener anti-aging products. >
Gatuline Link n Lift INCI: Fructose (and) Glycerin (and) Water (and) Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Extract ORIGIN: organic horse chestnut flowers from Ardèche, France USE LEVEL: 2% CLAIMS: significantly reduces eye contour wrinkles Gatuline Link n Lift is an ECOCERT/COSMOS organic active obtained from horse chestnut flowers which were extracted using NaDES (Natural Deep Eutectic Solvent) technology. NaDES is a novel solvent system, adopted by Gattefossé to create high-performance sustainable ingredients with a positive environmental impact. Gatuline Link n Lift was developed to treat the eye contour area, in particular the crow s feet, under-eye, and tear trough wrinkles. The active restores fibroblast dynamism and acts on the dermal-epidermal junction to reconnect the epidermis to the dermis. A double blind study versus placebo confirms visible eye contour improvement after 2 weeks of treatment, using just 2% of the active. The wrinkles are visibly reduced and the area around eyes is significantly smoother.
High-performance sustainable active The graph below is a comparison of traditional vs. NaDES solvents. The assay measures collagen IV synthesis in fibroblasts cultures. Gatuline n Lift proves to be superior to traditional solvents. Eco-age fighters Visible results on the eye contour 8)
Gatuline Expression AF INCI: Propanediol (and) Water (and) Acmella Oleracea Extract ORIGIN: Acmella oleracea from Madagascar USE LEVEL: 2-5% CLAIMS: erases expression lines, natural alternative to injections Gatuline Expression AF comes from the Acmella Oleracea flower which is native to Madagascar. The small yellow flower is traditionally used as a spice and shows natural anesthetic and antifungal properties. Using a controlled process a key alkylamide, Spilanthol, is extracted from the flower. To minimize impact on the planet Spilanthol and the other active molecules are stabilized in a propanediol solvent made from natural origin. Gatuline Expression AF is a plant-based alternative to plastic surgery that efficiently smooths expression lines. Studies prove it delivers immediate, effective, and reversible myorelaxing activity. The active has confirmed efficacy on the lip contour area including barcode wrinkles, bitterness folds, and the cupids bow. Visible improvements can be seen in the lip contour area as early as 14 days.
Reversible muscle relaxing activity The myorelaxant activity of Gatuline Expression AF was first tested in a model reproducing muscle contractions (nerve muscle co-culture). The active showed efficient and reversible muscle relaxing activity from 0.6%. Eco-age fighters Visibly smooths expression lines 10)
Foodie beauty active beauty Beauty and health are becoming more interconnected as consumers are seeking optimum wellness both inside and out. The overall trend toward well-being includes proper nutrition, exercise and clean beauty products. The concept of clean was adopted from the nutrition industry and is used to describe eating a natural diet rich in things that are unprocessed and come from the earth. Ingredients such as coconut, acai, and kale have proven to be good for the body and also good for the skin. processes that help bring out the natural goodness of fruits and vegetables. The Original Extracts, Fruit Secrets, and Fresh Cells lines each have unique extraction methods which entice different components out of the plant. These ingredients are rich in essential nutrients that bring moisturizing, nourishing, and anti-aging benefits to the skin. The following pages give more details about our 3 foodie beauty product lines. > 11) At Gattefossé we have used our knowledge of plant extraction to create several unique green chemistry
Original Extracts Foodie beauty Original Extracts are living waters obtained from fruits and plants. They contain a well-balanced content of trace elements, mineral salts and essential oils. These waters can act as co-actives or substitute the water in formulations. Original Extracts Bio are 100% organic and are ideal for organic certified cosmetics. 14 waters sourced from plants all around the globe 100% Natural 100% Organic Apple Ginger Cherry Bio Bamboo Rice Cranberry Bio Grape Kiwi Grape Bio Grapefruit Lotus Orange Bio Orange Lemon Bio INCI: Latin Name (English Name) Fruit Water USE LEVEL: Up to 100% CLAIMS: Apple: anti-aging, energizing Cherry Bio: anti-aging, revitalizing Ginger and Rice: protective, anti-aging Kiwi: skin lightening and moisturizing Lemon Bio: skin lightening Lotus: protective, anti-aging, soothing 14)
Fruit Secrets Foodie beauty Fruit Secrets is a range of concentrated fruit juices offering several benefits to natural cosmetics. They provide the skin with its daily dose of natural substances such as trace elements, amino acids and vitamins. In order to benefit from these properties, Gattefossé has concentrated several specially selected fruits, to feed the skin with essential nutrition. INCI: Latin Name (English Name) Fruit Extract USE LEVEL: 0.5-10% CLAIMS: Acerola: rich in anti-aging vitamin C Apple: contains exfoliating fruit acids and protective polyphenols Lemon: contains cleansing and seboregulating citric acid and citroflavonoids Orange: a cocktail of beneficial vitamins, especially vitamin C Papaya: a natural and gentle peeling agent
Fresh Cells Foodie beauty Fresh Cells are cellular suspensions of whole, fresh fruit cells, gathered in a protective medium that preserves their nutrients, vitamins, and trace elements in a natural microcapsule. Fresh Cells are obtained by a gentle enzymatic extraction process which separates the cells while protecting the molecular content of each cell. When the individual Fresh Cells come in contact with the skin, they degrade due to enzymes in the epidermis, releasing their precious content on to the skin. INCI: Water (and) Latin Name (English Name) Fruit Extract USE LEVEL: 5% CLAIMS: Carrot, Kiwi and Pumpkin: protection (anti-oxidant potential) Mango: skin complexion and moisturization (anti-tyrosinase and anti-hyaluronidase activities) Strawberry: moisturization (anti-hyaluronidase activity) 18)
Less is MORE active beauty Using less now will inevitably lead to more resources at your disposal in the future. This minimalist concept is beginning to catch on in the beauty industry. Less ingredients means less of an impact on the earth and it also means lower cost cosmetic formulations. One organization focusing on less is RSPO (the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil). With palm oil being one of the most versatile and widely used oils in many industries (including cosmetics), using less of it is a challenge. Currently, an area the equivalent size of 300 football fields of rainforest is cleared each hour in Indonesia to make way for new palm oil plantations. 6 This degree of deforestation will have massive impact on the climate and wildlife. As a result, Gattefossé joined RSPO in 2010 to help reverse this palm oil problem. Within our product line we have many ingredients developed using sustainable palm oil derivatives. In addition to promoting sustainable palm oil we offer many ingredients with both functional and clinical benefits. The following multi-use offerings will help you achieve more from your formulations, while using less ingredients.> 19)
Emulium Mellifera MB INCI: Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (and) Cetyl Alcohol USE LEVEL: 2-4% u u u COSMOS approved NPA certified Certified RSPO Mass Balance 1 Ingredient, 8 Benefits 1. natural, PEG-free emulsifier 2. creates light, breathable textures 3. auto-adapts to climate 4. shields against urban pollutants 5. provides long term moisturization 6. soothes and protects sensitive skin 7. visibly improves skin s appearance 21)
Flexible & multifunctional emulsifer Less is MORE Emulium Mellifera MB is created from natural ingredients using green chemistry. It was produced by a patented wax technology which transforms and functionalizes natural waxes. Besides using green chemistry, the polyglycerol unit within the ingredient is derived from RSPO certified Mass Balance palm oil. The end product is a sustainable emulsifier with sensory benefits and active properties. Emulium Mellifera MB delivers formulations with light and delightful textures. Since it has no impact on viscosity it can be used to create sprayable formulations and even rich butters. In addition to stabilization and sensory the ingredient creates auto-adapting formulations, shields against pollutants, provides moisturization, soothes sensitivity and improves skin s appearance. 22)
ts Acticire MB SENSORIAL creates soft, smooth formulations COMPATIBILIZING allows water into anhydrous formulations ACTIVE brings durable moisturization and comfort INCI: Jojoba Esters and Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax and Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax and Polyglycerin-3 ORIGIN: Jojoba, mimosa, and sunflower wax USE LEVEL: 1-5% u u COSMOS approved Certified RSPO Mass Balance 23)
Creates innovative formulations Less is MORE Acticire MB is a 100% natural texturizing agent based on a complex of jojoba, mimosa and sunflower waxes. Thanks to a patented technology, these 3 vegetable waxes are functionalized to bring sensorial and functional advantages. Acticire MB is a vegetable butter which brings a soft, smooth texture to formulations. Due to the presence of vegetable polyglycerol, it can also be used to incorporate up to 15% water into anhydrous formulations. In addition to its functional benefits, clinical studies prove Acticire MB restores skin s moisturizaiton and improves skin quality. 24)
Mala Kîte and Natural colorant Skin protectant INCI: Water (and) Malachite Extract ORIGIN: precious malachite stone originating from Central Africa USE LEVEL: 1-5% u u Naturally sourced Preservative-free 25)
Boosts skin s defenses Mala Kîte boosts glutathione reductase activity. Glutathione reductase helps regenerate the skin s natural antioxidant pool. Less is MORE Gives stable and natural blue color Mala Kîte at 0, 1, 2 and 4% in water Mala Kîte is proof that plants are not the only source of natural actives. Sourced from Central Africa, it is a copper complex extracted from the precious malachite stone. The stone has been used for thousands of years as a colorant and skin treatment. Inspired by its historical uses, Gattefossé has proven Mala Kîte protects the skin and adds natural color to formulations. Mala Kîte brings 2 benefits from a single ingredient. It detoxifies damaging free radicals while boosting skin s own natural defenses. It also brings a spectacular blue lagoon color to formulations, which is light stable. 26)
Formulation Corner active beauty Developing formulations that are both innovative and sustainable can be quite challenging. Luckily Gattefossé s 4 applications labs (France, India, China, and USA) take both formulating and sustainability very seriously. If you are seeking ideas for your next earth friendly skin care product the next 6 formulations are sure to be a source of inspiration.
Bounce Butter 1835-6.14 A B C Emulium Delta MB 4.00 Undecane, Tetradecane 10.00 Preservative 1.00 Water 73.20 Glycerin 3.00 Carbomer 0.50 Butylene Glycol, Peg-240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether, Water 5.00 D Gatuline Link n Lift 2.00 E Parfum 0.30 F Water, Sodium Hydroxide 1.00 Emulium Delta MB is a sustainable grade emulsifier which gives a velvety soft after-feel to this butter. Gatuline Link n Lift smooths crows feet, under eye, and tear trough wrinkles restoring emotion to the face. 28)
Solid Oil 1878-1.27 Emulium Mellifera MB stabilizes this unique, transforming balm to oil texture. Gatuline Expression AF eliminates the appearance of expression lines, especially around the lips. Water 10.65 A Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate 0.30 Glycerin 31.50 Dicaprylyl Ether 35.20 Emulium Mellifera MB 6.00 Geleol 3.00 B Cetyl Alcohol 1.00 Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil 7.50 Cetyl Palmitate 2.50 Preservative 0.50 C Gatuline Expression AF 1.00 D Perfume 0.30 E Water, Red 4 0.55 29)
Feed Your Skin 1544-1.04 A B C Original Extract Lemon 32.26 Original Extract Apple 32.00 Vegetol Common Nettle 5.00 Glycerin 3.00 Cyclodextrin 0.30 Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.25 Emulfree CBG 3.00 Coco-Caprylate 8.00 MOD 2.00 Preservative D Water, Sodium Hydroxide qs E Perfume qs F qs Water, Blue 1 0.34 Water, Red 33 0.15 Water, Yellow 5 1.70 Fresh Cells Carrot PFE 5.00 Fresh Cells Kiwi PFE 5.00 Emulfree CBG is a PEGfree bi-gel system that creates a light and fresh texture with a quick-break effect. Original Extract Apple brings energy and Original Extract Lemon Bio targets uneven skin complexion. Fresh Cells Carrot PFE and Fresh Cells Kiwi PFE are anti-oxidants that are also rich in vitamins. 30)
Cherry Body Butter 1549-1.03 Apifil CG and Emulcire 61 WL 2659 CG create a soft stable butter with and melting sensation upon application. Original Extract Cherry Bio and Original Extract Cranberry Bio are 100% organic antiaging waters. Lipocire A SG and Acticire MB bring sustainable melting moisturization and comfort A B C Water 47.66 Original Extract Cherry Bio 5.00 Original Extract Cranberry Bio 5.00 Glycerin 7.00 Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7 2.50 Apifil CG 3.00 Emulcire 61 Wl 2659 CG 2.00 Lipocire A SG 3.00 Acticire MB 1.00 Geleol 0.50 Labrafac CC 6.00 MOD 5.00 DPPG CG 3.00 Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 4.00 Dimethicone 4.00 Preservative 1.00 Water, Sodium Hydroxide 0.03 Water, Red 4 0.16 D Parfum 0.15 31)
Yoga Serum 1532-1.12 Emulium Mellifera MB 1.50 Lipocire A SG 1.00 A Acticire MB 0.50 Dimethicone 2.50 B Water 48.10 Acrylates Copolymer 1.25 C Xanthan Gum 0.10 Glycerin 33.15 D Water, Sodium Hydroxide 0.80 Mala Kite 1.00 E Corn Starch Modified 9.00 Perfume 0.10 Perservative 1.00 Emulium Mellifera MB creates a delightful fluid texture with a naked after-feel. Sustaianble grade Lipocire A SG and Acticire MB bring moisturization and melting. Mala Kîte is a detoxifying agent that also gives its natural blue color to the formula. 32)
Soft Cotton 1659-1.11 Emulium Mellifera MB is an ECOCERT and COSMOS approved PEG-free emulsifier. Original Extract Lotus is a plant water with soothing benefits. Lipocire A SG is made from sustainable palm oil and gives guaranteed melting to all formulations. Water 46.73 A1 Original Extract Lotus 5.00 Potato Starch Modified 2.50 A2 Glycerin 5.00 Xanthan Gum 0.20 A3 Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate 0.30 Water 10.00 Emulium Mellifera MB 4.00 Cetearyl Alcohol 2.00 B Lipocire A SG 4.00 Squalane 5.00 Labrafac CC 9.00 MOD 4.00 C Water, Citric Acid 1.27 D Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate 1.00 33)
Sources 1 GCI, What Women Really Think About Natural Beauty, September 2016, available at http://www.gcimagazine.com/marketstrends/segments/natural/what-women-really-think-about-natural-beauty-395003821.html 2 Neilsen, The Sustainability Imperative New insights on Consumer Expectations, October 2015 3 ACS, History of Green Chemistry, available at https://www.acs.org/content/acs/ en/greenchemistry/what-is-green-chemistry/history-of-green-chemistry.html 4 RSPO, About us, available at http://www.rspo.org/about 5 Woodland Trust, Chestnut, horse (Aesculus hippocastanum), available at https:// www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/visiting-woods/trees-woods-and-wildlife/british-trees/common-non-native-trees/horse-chestnut/ 6 Say No To Palm OIl, What's the Issue, avalaible at http://www.saynotopalmoil. com/whats_the_issue
active Let s talk actives. beauty www.gattefosse.com/usa North America Headquarters Gattefossé USA 115 W Century Road - Plaza I Suite 340 Paramus, NJ 07652 USA +1 201 265 4800