WORLD UNIVERSITY OF THE BANGLADESH

WORLD UNIVERSITY OF THE BANGLADESH STUDY ON TIME VARIATION FOR PRODUCTION OF DIFFERENT GARMENTS ITEMS A thesis submitted to the world University of Bangladesh in partial fulfillment the requirement for award of the degree of the Bachelor Science of the Textile Engineering Under the supervision of Engr. Elias Khalil Lecturer & Co-ordinator Department of the textile Engineering Submitted By Md. Rakibul Islam Khan Mahibur rahman Md. Al-Amin Department of the Textile Engineering World University of Bangladesh Submission Date:14/08/2015

Approval The thesis entitled the Study on Time Variation for Production OF Different Garments Items prepared submitted by Md. Rakibul Islam, Khan Mahibur Rahman and Md. Al- Amin to fulfillment for the degree Bachelor of Science in the Textile Engineering. Approved and Acceptance by,.. Engr. Elias Khalil

Declaration We hereby declare that, this project has been done by us under the supervision Engr. Elias Khalil, Lecturer and coordinator, Department of the Textile Engineering, World University of Bangladesh. We also declare that neither this project not any part of this project has been submitted elsewhere for award of degree. Supervision by, Engr. Elias Khalil Department of the Textile Engineering World University of Bangladesh Submitted by, Serial no Name ID 01 Md. Rakibul Islam WUB-08/11/12/364 02 Khan Mahibur Rahman WUB-08/12/15/419 03 Md. Al-Amin WUB-08/12/15/421 Page 3

Acknowledgement At first our gratefulness goes to Almighty Allah to give us strength and ability to complete the Industrial training and this report. May your name be exalted, honored and glorified. Industrial Attachment Course is an academic function of the World University of Bangladesh. We would to like express our deepest appreciation to all those who provide the possibility and help to complete this thesis. Foremost, we would like to express our sincere gratitude to Professor Dr. Mannan Choudhory, Honorable vice-chancellor, World University of Bangladesh. We would like to thanks to Engr. Md. Solaiman, Head of the department, Department of The Textile Engineering. We are highly delighted to express our regards & gratitude to our honorable teacher Lecturer & Coordinator Engr. Elias Khalil, World University of Bangladesh for providing us the chance to complete our Quality Control in the Apparel Industry in the Bangladesh. Special thanks to our supervising teacher Lecturer & coordinator Engr. Elias Khalil, Department of Textile Engineering to whom we are extremely indebted for his tremendous support and guidance throughout our training period, without whose help it would not have been possible to complete the training successfully. We also take the opportunity to express our sincerest gratitude to the Al-Muslim Group staff was the very vital in the completion of the project, their guidance and encouragement played a key role in the planning and completion of the project. Especially, we would like to sincere gratitude and appreciation to Md. Abdullah, M.D Al-Muslim Group for his enormous support.

Abstract The study on time variation for different garments item is based on calculation of standard minute value (SMV) of different garments by determining the manpower and machine allocation for particular target. An experimental investigation for the distribution of SMV for each and every operation requires for making a garment and provides a clear and detail concepts for determining line balancing, machine requirements, man power allocation, operational sequence of the manufacturing process for setting a definite target within a reasonable efficiency. This study is a detailed discussion and distribution of SMV of different garments item by work study which will assist to minimize the SMV for having a better synchronization with man, machine, materials and methods to achieve higher efficiency. A general overview over efficient productive method to make a T-shirt, a Pant, a Jacket is given in this paper. Page 5

List of Content Name of content Page no 1. Chapter One- Introduction 8-8 1.1. Introduction 8 1.2. Aims & Objectives 8 2. Chapter Two- Literature View 10-11 2.1. Area of the study 10 2.2. History of the garments 10 2.3. SAM 10 2.4. SMV 11 2.5. Time Study 11 3. Chapter Three-Method of Calculation 13-15 3.1 Calculation of SAM or SMV through Time Study: 13 3.2 Formula for Production Estimation 14 4. SAM and SMV Calculation for Different Garments Item 17-29 4.1 Machine sequence of T-shirt manufacturing process 17 4.2 Process layout and line balancing of T-shirt 19 4.3 Formula of SMV and targeted production calculation for T-shirt 20 4.4 Result and discussion 21 4.5: Process lay out and Line Balancing for a Basic Pant: 24 4.6: Process lay out and Line Balancing for a Jacket: 27 5. Conclusion 30 6. References 31

Chapter One Introduction Page 7

1.1 Introduction In a garment industry there are several items of garments can be produce. There are two types of major item produces in Bangladeshi garments industries. One is woven garments and another is knitted garments. In woven items there are several style of shirt, pant, coat, jacket, short pants and denim items. On the other hand knitted items are T-shirts, sweater, polo shirts etc. A garments industry mainly machines are oriented to produce a garments within a short time by using less manpower. For different types of garments different time required to produce. And different men machine setup required. Now a days the slogan in garments production level is Less Time, Less Manpower and High Production. Depending upon this slogan Industrial Engineers set some parameters to make production rate higher. SAM and SMV is one of them which calculate out the mean time for produce a complete garment. Here on that thesis paper we are going to study about the time variation for producing different kind of garments item. 1.2 Aims and Objectives Studying on production time of a garments aims us to take a transparent idea about to estimating production plan for different styling and different items of garments. After calculate out the SAM (Standard Allowed Time) then we lead it to achieve targeted SMV. So our aim and objective is to Calculate SAM and SMV of different garments item so that we can balance our factory line setup and appropriate production planning for run different style of garments by our factory capacity to achieve maximum productivity and profitability. We can point it as following, Production study is used to calculate the actual production of a worker per hours. To calculate the actual production we have to see the total working minute in hour without lost time. To know target of a worker. To evaluate the finishing time of an item or product. Production study helps for planning to maintain the layout and line balancing of machine and product. For use as the basis for determining the unit cost of manufacture and the wage rate.

For use the basis for introducing a production control system. Chapter Two Literature view Page 9

2.1 Area of the study In this project we study about Time variation for different garments item production and we deeply focus on SAM & SMV for a garment. 2.2 History of the garments The study of the history of clothing and textiles traces the availability and use of textiles and other materials and the development of technology for the making of clothing over human history. The wearing of clothing is exclusively a human characteristic and is a feature of most human societies. It is not known when humans began wearing clothes but anthropologists believe that animal skins and vegetation were adapted into coverings as protection from cold, heat and rain, especially as humans migrated to new climates; and an alternative hypothesis is that covering may have been first used for other purposes, such as magic, decoration, cult, or prestige, and later found to be practical as well. Clothing and textiles have been important in human history and reflects the materials available to a civilization as well as the technologies that had been mastered. The social significance of the finished product reflects their culture. Textiles can be felt or spun fibers made into yarn and subsequently netted, looped, knit or woven to make fabrics, which appeared in the Middle East during the late stone age.[*] From ancient times to the present day, methods of textile production have continually evolved, and the choices of textiles available have influenced how people carried their possessions, clothed themselves, and decorated their surroundings. [*] Sources available for the study of clothing and textiles include material remains discovered via archaeology; representation of textiles and their manufacture in art; and documents concerning the manufacture, acquisition, use, and trade of fabrics, tools, and finished garments. Scholarship of textile history, especially its earlier stages, is part of material culture studies. 2.3 SAM: SAM is the time value arrived at for a task based on the average rate of output which qualified workers will naturally achieve without over exertion provided that they know and adhere to the specified method and provided that they are motivated to apply themselves to their work.

Here SAM stands for Standard Allowed Minute. In garment industry, specifically in production SAM is used for measuring work. In the factory work study department (also know as Industrial Engineering department) measure and calculate SAM for sewing operation using standard calculation method. Read 'How to calculate SAM of the garment' SAM is used many ways directly and indirectly. Some of those are i. Factory as well as individual operator performance is measured by means of SAM ii. Labor cost and associated cost ratios are measured by SAM iii. Operators payroll and incentive amount is calculated based on earned SAM iv. Latest production scheduling systems like line balancing system and performance measuring systems use SAM as one of the primary parameters. An organized garment manufacturing company cannot think about managing and controlling shop floor without using SAM of the garment and individual operations. Even apparel buyers do negotiation of garment manufacturing price based on garment SAM. To derive most appropriate SAM value of a garment, factories use PTS based systems. Standard Time is also derived from time study method. 2.4 SMV: SMV means Standard Minute Value.It is a numerical value which is represented the standard time of a process or operation in a standard environment for standard worker. It will be calculated by the following formula (Stop-watch system): Standard Time = Basic Time + Allowance% There are many techniques which have been developed to establish standard minute Values, one such technique is Called Pro-SMV, Professional standard minute value, and this is a system based on MTM 2 developed by Methods Apparel consultancy India Pvt Limited. 2.5 Time Study: Time study is a method of measuring work for recording the times of performing a certain specific task or its elements carried out under specified conditions. An operator does same operation throughout the day. Time study help to define how much time is necessary for an operator to carry out the task in a defined rate of performance. Page 11

Chapter Three Method of Calculation

3.1 Calculation of SAM or SMV through Time Study: Step 1: Select one operation for which you want to calculate SAM. Step 2: Take one stop watch. Stand by side of the operator. Capture cycle time for that operation. (cycle time total time taken to do all works needed to complete one operation, i.e. time from pick up part of first piece to next pick up of the next piece) [9, 13] Do time study for consecutive five cycles. Discard if found abnormal or non value added time in any cycle. Calculate average of the 5 cycles. Time you got from time study is called cycle time 13]. Convert this cycle time into basic time by multiplying cycle time with operator performance rating. [Basic Time = Cycle Time X performance Rating] Step 3: Performance rating. Now you have to rate the operator at what performance level he was doing the job seeing his movement and work speed. Suppose that operator performance rating is 80%. Suppose cycle time is 0.59 minutes. Basic time = (0.59 X 80%) = 0.472 minutes. Step 4: Standard allowed minutes (SAM) = (Basic minute + Bundle allowances + machine and personal allowances). Add bundle allowances (10%) and machine and personal allowances (20%) to basic time [13]. Now you got Standard Minute value (SMV) or SAM. SAM= (0.472+0.0472 +0.0944) = 0.616 minutes. Similarly, for all the operation related to the above garments style standard allowed minute or SAM was calculated. The approximate value of SAM both for excluding and including nonproductive time are 18.86 min & 16.60 min respectively. Productive and nonproductive activities in each steps wherever found was identified for the above process for each style and the SMV or SAM in minutes were noted. Finally the ultimate SMV variation was calculated [13]. Results & discussion Table 2 shows the total SMV taken for each garment to complete the process of operation and the same table shows SMV segregation of productive and nonproductive activities. Page 13

Table 1: Variations of SMV for Non Productive (NP) Activities in Sewing Section for Different Styles. Style No. SMV (min) including NP Activities (A) SMV (min) excluding NP Activities (B) 84301 18.86 16.60 2.26 84302 17.50 14.70 2.80 84303 18.75 17.25 1.50 84304 19.50 17.60 1.90 80205 16.60 14.30 2.30 Variation of SMV due to non productive activities (A-B) = (C) Fig. 1 Style-wise SMV variations due to productive & nonproductive activities These nonproductive time are due to waiting, inattention of operators, no proper identification, zigzag movement due to inappropriate lay out, no proper planning, improper machine use, sharing of working instruments, absence of operators, workers fatigue, less experienced workers, poor machine performance, no standard operation followed by operator, Machine break down, imbalanced line (WIP control), continuous feeding to the line, quality problem, individual operator performance level, operators absenteeism, etc [11, 15]. Below table 3 shows the style-wise costs of productive and non productive activities in sewing section. As per the factory information, the unit CM costs for each garments in sewing section was taken into consideration to calculate the overall productive and non productive activities cost in terms of SMV, CM & production rate and consequent cost savings in ultimate factory expenditure. During the experimental observation, total productive and non productive times were identified separately and costs related to each time also calculated. Finally, cost savings for non productive activities time in terms of total time (both for including and excluding non productive time) required to finish the job were calculated. 3.2 Formula for Production Estimation:

Daily production = Total man minutes available in a day/sam X Average Line efficiency Total available man-minutes =Total no. of operators X Working hours in a day X 60%, [13] Suppose, SAM of the garment is 18.86 minutes, a line of 41 operators, works at 8 hours shift / day. Line works at average 60% efficiency. So, Total available man minutes = 41 X (8 X 60) = 19680 minutes Daily estimated production = 19680 /18.86 X 60% = 626 pieces/day (For SMV 18.86 min.) So, per hour production = 626/8 = 78 pieces/hour Again, daily estimated production = 19680 /16.60 X 60% = 712 pieces/day (For SMV 16.60 min.) So, per hour production = 712/8 = 89 pieces/hour From the above calculation it is easily observed that due to SMV variation for including and excluding NP activities, variation in daily estimated production is (712-626) = 86 pieces. And variation in hourly production is (89-78) = 11 pieces approximately Table 2: Style-Wise Production Rate Variation at Variable SMV Style No. SMV (min) including NP Activities (A) Output/ hour at 60% efficien cy SMV (min) excludi ng NP Activiti es (B) Output/ hour at 60% efficien cy Variati on in SMV (A-B) = (C) Variati on in output/ hour (D) 84301 18.86 78 16.60 89 2.26 11 84302 17.50 84 14.70 101 2.80 17 84303 18.75 79 17.25 86 1.50 07 84304 19.50 76 17.60 84 1.90 08 80205 16.60 89 14.30 104 2.30 15 Total 91.21 406 80.45 464 10.76 58 Avg. 18.24 81 16.09 93 2.15 12 Page 15

Chapter Four SAM & SMV CALCULATION FOR DIFFERENT GARMENTS ITEM

4.1 Machine sequence of T-shirt manufacturing process Number matching front to back part Shoulder joining (by over lock machine) Neck joint (by plain machine) Neck over locking (by over lock machine) Neck piping round the neck (by flat lock machine) Round neck edge tack (by plain machine) Back tap top stitch (by plain machine) Main label attaching (by plain machine) Sleeve hem (by flat lock machine) Sleeve Joint (by over lock machine) Page 17

Side Seam (by over lock machine) Care label joining (by plain machine) Side top stitch (by flat lock machine) Neck top stitch (by flat machine) Bottom hem (by flat lock machine) Inspection 4.2 Process layout and line balancing of T-shirt There are various types of operations, machines and stitches used for making a T-shirt which are enlisted to the given table consecutively with proper man power. This information will provide a complete idea to calculate the SMV for making a T-shirt. Table 3: Process layout and line balancing of T-shirt Sl No. 01. 02. Name of operation Machines Stitch Type Number matching front to back part Shoulder joining 03. Neck make Helper Man Power Operator - - 1 - Over lock Single needle lock stitch 04. Neck joint Over lock 05. Neck piping round the neck Flat lock Over edge Stitch - 1 Lock Stitch - 1 Over edge Stitch Chain / Flat bed Stitch - 1-1

06. 07. 08. Round neck edge tack Back tap top stitch Main label attaching Single needle lock stitch Single needle lock stitch Single needle lock stitch Lock Stitch - 1 Lock Stitch - 2 Lock Stitch - 1 09. Sleeve hem Flat lock Chain / Flat bed Stitch - 1 10. Sleeve match Helper 1-11. Sleeve Joining Over lock Over edge Stitch - 2 12. Side Joining Over lock Over edge Stitch - 3 13. Care label joining Single needle lock stitch Lock Stitch - 1 14. Body turning Helper - 1-15. Side top stitch Flat lock Chain / Flat bed Stitch - 2 16. Neck top stitch Flat lock Chain / Flat bed Stitch - 1 17. Bottom hem Flat lock Chain / Flat bed Stitch - 1 Total 3 19 4.3 Formula of SMV and targeted production calculation for T-shirt To convert cycle time to normal or basic time needs to multiply it with operator performance rating. Now allowances for machine, fatigue and personal needs etc have been added. Machine allowance only to those elements where machine is running, fatigue and personal needs to all elements is added. Finally standard time for each element in seconds is found by summing up all elemental time and then seconds is converted into minutes. This is known as Standard Minute Value (SMV). Let, Cycle time = 36 sec. Performance rating = 80% Bundle allowance, machine allowance & personal allowance = 20% SMV or Standard Minute Value = Normal or Basic time + Allowance% = [(Cycle time (Second) / 60) x Performance rating %] +Allowance % = [(36/ 60) x 80/100] + Allowance% = 0.48 + [(20 x 0.48)/100] = 0.48+0.096 = 0.576 minute Page 19

Targeted production = Number of worker Working hour 60Total SMV x Expected Efficiency% = 22 1 606.48 x 90% = 183 pieces. 4.4 Result and discussion The following table denotes the estimated SMV of operations to the respect of average cycle time by considering 20% job allowances. Table 4 : Calculated SMV for a T-shirt. Sl no. 01. 02. 03. 04. 05. Operation SMV for Number matching front to back part SMV for Shoulder joining SMV for Neck make SMV for Neck joint SMV for Neck piping Average Cycle time(sec) Estimated SMV 15 0.24 17 0.27 16 0.26 19 0.30 18 0.29

06. 07. 08. 09. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. SMV for Round neck edge tack 20 0.32 SMV for Back tap top stitch 38 0.60 SMV for Main label attaching 19 0.30 SMV for Sleeve hem 19 0.30 SMV for Sleeve match 18 0.29 SMV for Sleeve joining 38 0.60 SMV for Side joining 51 0.80 SMV for Care label joining 13 0.29 SMV for Body turning 20 0.32 SMV for Side top stitch 38 0.60 SMV for Neck top stitch 22 0.35 SMV for Bottom hem 22 0.35 Total SMV 6.48 Page 21

Number of man power required to stitch a garment against a particular line target vary according to the type and style that is selected to stitch hence SMV of the T-shirt vary according to the style and number of operations carried by a T-shirt and according to the style that can be defined as basic or critical. The estimated results have been presented in the mentioned table-2. From the table-1 it is worked centering a semi critical T-shirt which contains the parts as front part, back part, neck, sleeve and hem. Again from the table-1 it is found that the number of single operations required to stitch the T-shirt is 17 (including operators and helpers) and total number of man power is 22 (19 operators and 3 helpers). In table-2, four operations contain the SMV above 0.50 for which to achieve target around 180 pieces of T-shirt per hour that had to set double man powers whom can be used for other non-value added job such as thread trimming, body turning etc. Finally it is found from the table-2 that the SMV is 6.48 for the above mentioned T-shirt. 4.5 :Process Lay out and Line Balancing for a Basic Pant:

OPERATION BULLETIN CUM BALANCED SHEET Sl. No. Line : 0.00 Dated: 21.06.2013 Order No: Buyer: H & M Style Descripton: Tepered 5 pkt Analyst: Planned Operators for Calculation: 48 Checked By: Operation Machines SAM/Pc Operators Require as per Calculation Actual Operators Requirement MD.OMAR FARUK Hourly Target @ 100% Eff FRONT PART 1 Loop make by folder and Big facing mark F/L 0.40 0.83 1 150 2 Coin pkt rolling & D/fly tack S/N 0.40 0.83 1 150 3 Big and Small facing O/L 3 O/L 0.40 0.83 1 150 4 Coin pkt iron and fake fly iron IRON 0.40 0.83 1 150 5 Coin pkt att. to big facing D/N 0.40 0.83 1 150 6 Big facing att. to pkting S/N 0.45 0.94 1 133 7 Small facing att. To pkting S/N 0.40 0.83 1 150 8 S/F join and tack to fake fly S/N 0.40 0.83 1 150 9 Front rise & S/F O/L with loop att. 3 O/L 0.40 0.83 1 150 10 Pkting joint to body S/N (E/C) 0.40 0.83 1 150 11 Front pkt mouth rolling D/N 0.45 0.94 1 133 12 Frt pkt side and waist tack S/N 0.40 0.83 1 150 13 Frt pkt bag close S/N 0.40 0.83 1 150 14 Frt pkt bag 1/4 top stitch S/N 0.40 0.83 1 150 15 S/F join and top stc S/N 0.40 0.83 1 150 16 J stitch mark and top stc D/N 0.45 0.94 1 133 17 D/F join and top stc S/N 0.40 0.83 1 150 18 Frt part side O/L 3 O/L 0.40 0.83 1 150 SUB TOTAL 7.35 15 18 147 BACK PART 19 Back yoke join by folder CHAIN ST 0.40 0.83 1 150 Mark for bk pkt & reinforcement 20 att. HELPER 0.80 1.67 2 150 21 Press reinforcement IRON 0.30 0.63 1 200 22 Back & coin pkt O/L 3 O/L 0.40 0.83 1 150 23 Bk pkt rolling D/N 0.30 0.63 1 200 Page 23

Sl. No. Operation Machines SAM/Pc Operators Require as per Calculation Actual Operators Requirement Hourly Target @ 100% Eff 24 Press back pkt IRON 0.40 0.83 1 150 25 Reinforcement Att. S/N 0.70 1.46 2 171 26 Bk pkt join S/N 0.80 1.67 2 150 27 Bk pkt 1/4 S/N 0.70 1.46 2 171 28 Bk part side O/L 3 O/L 0.40 0.83 1 150 SUB TOTAL 5.20 10.85 14 162 ASSEMBLE 29 Set back & front HELPER 0.45 0.94 1 133 30 Inseam close by O/L 5 O/L 0.70 1.46 2 171 31 Inseam top stc F.O.A 0.50 1.04 1 120 32 Back & front rise close by folder F.O.A 0.45 0.94 1 133 33 Side seam close S/N 1.00 2.09 2 120 34 Mark & make cord stitch S/N 0.70 1.46 2 171 35 Loop cut and set with mark HELPER 0.50 1.04 1 120 36 Loop join S/N (E/C) 0.45 0.94 1 133 37 Label tack and poly S/N 0.40 0.83 38 Label attach to body S/N 0.30 0.63 2 171 39 Loop supporting joint to body S/N 0.30 0.63 1 200 40 Waist mark and set HELPER 0.45 0.94 1 133 41 Waist belt joint to body K/S 0.70 1.46 2 171 43 Mouth close(top & Bottom) S/N 1.00 2.09 2 120 44 Loop tack(top & Bottom) S/N 0.80 1.67 2 150 45 Bartack at garments (18 nos) BTK 0.80 1.67 2 150 46 Bottom rolling S/N 0.45 0.94 1 133 47 Thread trimming HELPER 0.50 1.04 1 120 SUB TOTAL 10.45 21.81 25.00 143.54 Grand Total 23.00 48 57 149

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4.6: Process Lay out and Line Balancing for a Jacket: OPERATION BULLETIN CUM BALANCED SHEET Line : Dated: 08-08-15 Buyer: H & M Style Description: ALICE PARKA JACKET Planned Operators for Calculation: 92 Analyst: Mahi Sl.No. Operation Machines SAM/Pc Front Part Operators Require Actual Manpower Hourly Target @ 100% Eff 1 Flap make use patern S/N (E/C) 0.45 0.62 1 133 2 Flap top 1/4 stc S/N 0.60 0.83 1 100 3 Front panel closed by folder C/S 0.60 0.83 1 100 4 Faching join to pocketing ( 3 no's ) 5 Welt make with pkt bag & top zip, att, to pkt S/N 0.65 0.90 1 92 b S/N 0.50 0.69 1 120 6 Mark for welt attatch Helper 0.65 0.90 1 92 7 Welt att. To body (btm pkt) D/N 0.60 0.83 1 100 8 Welt cornar cut Helper 0.75 1.04 1 80 9 Welt top stc btm (btm pkt) S/N 0.60 0.83 1 100 10 Welt top stc top (btm pkt) S/N 0.80 1.11 1 75 11 Press top welt IRON 0.40 0.55 1 150 12 Welt att. To top pkt with corner cut 13 Welt top stc.top & btm with zippar S/N 0.65 0.90 1 92 S/N 0.85 1.18 1 71 14 Welt btm pkt bag close 5 O/L 0.60 0.83 1 100 15 Flap set & cut to body Helper 0.60 0.83 1 100 16 Flap joint & top stc S/N 0.55 0.76 1 109 17 Show stc flap edge S/N 0.50 0.69 1 120 18 All Bartack BTK 0.60 0.83 1 100 SUB TOTAL 10.95 15.17 18 99 Back Part & Hood with Placket 19 Press bk gasset (4 no's) with mark IRON 0.55 0.76 1 109 20 Gasset att, to body with run stc S/N 0.50 0.69

Sl.No. Operation Machines SAM/Pc Operators Require Actual Manpower Hourly Target @ 100% Eff 21 Back middle panel close S/N 0.30 0.42 1 75 22 Back middle panel top stc D/N 0.60 0.83 1 100 23 Back yoke top stc by folder C/S 0.30 0.42 24 Hood middel panel closed by folder C/S 0.50 0.69 1 75 25 In hood close 5 O/L 0.50 0.69 1 120 26 Press in hood facing with mark IRON 0.50 0.69 1 120 27 Hood facing att, by top stc with run stc S/N 0.50 0.69 28 Tack to laise S/N 0.30 0.42 1 75 29 Tow part hood make S/N (E/C) 0.60 0.83 1 100 30 Hood Two part run stc nack position S/N (E/C) 0.55 0.76 1 109 31 Top placket make S/N (E/C) 0.60 0.83 1 100 32 Top placket top stc with turn D/N 0.60 0.83 1 100 33 Top placket punch & mark PUNCH 0.45 0.62 34 Snap BTN Att. To placket S/B 0.40 0.55 1 71 35 In placket 1/16 top & show stc S/N 0.65 0.90 1 92 36 Zipper join to inner placket with mark S/N 0.65 0.90 1 92 SUB TOTAL 9.05 12.54 14 93 Sleeve & lining 37 Sleeve panel closed by folder C/S 0.55 0.76 1 109 38 Sleeve side close 5 O/L 0.50 0.69 1 120 39 Sleeve joint to lining 5 O/L 1.20 1.66 2 100 40 Press cuff with mark IRON 0.50 0.69 1 120 41 Cuff make S/N (E/C) 42 Cuff measurement with tack (4 no's) 43 In cuff facing measurement with tack (6 no's) 44 Rib measurement & tack S/N (E/C) 0.65 0.90 1 92 S/N 0.60 0.83 1 100 5 O/L 0.80 1.11 1 75 0.50 0.69 1 120 Page 27

Sl.No. Operation Machines SAM/Pc Operators Require Actual Manpower Hourly Target @ 100% Eff 45 Rib finish run stc S/N 0.60 0.83 1 100 46 Rib cuff att, to in facing S/N 0.60 0.83 1 100 47 Rib cuff att, to in facing two part S/N 0.65 0.90 1 92 48 In facing two part run stc S/N 0.60 0.83 1 100 49 Sleeve mark for quailting att, Helper 0.50 0.69 1 120 50 Quailting att, to body S/N (E/C) 1.40 1.94 2 86 51 Sleeve show stc (Channel Stc) S/N 1.30 1.80 2 92 52 Sleeve pannel & side close 5 O/L 0.85 1.18 1 71 53 Cuff joint to insleeve S/N 0.65 0.90 1 92 54 In facing joint to top sleeve S/N 0.65 0.90 1 92 55 In sleeve joint to infacing S/N 0.65 0.90 1 92 56 Gasset joint to back part S/N 0.50 0.69 57 Hanger loop make & tack S/N 0.30 0.42 58 Middle pannel closed by o/l balance sleeve cl 1 75 o 5 O/L 0.50 0.69 1 120 59 Press at Back Patch IRON 0.30 0.42 1 200 60 Main & size label Att. To patch S/N 0.50 0.69 1 120 61 Patch Att. To sherpa S/N 0.50 0.69 62 Hanger loop joint S/N 0.30 0.42 1 75 63 Infacing jointo front part S/N 0.65 0.90 1 92 64 Infacing top stc S/N 0.50 0.69 1 120 65 Care label make & tack to body S/N 0.85 1.18 1 71 66 Close side & shoulder 5 O/L 0.80 1.11 1 75 SUB TOTAL 19.45 26.95 31 96 Assemble 67 Shoulder closed by folder & set (front + B 68 Side seam close & set (top placket) C/S 0.80 1.11 1 75 5 O/L 0.80 1.11 1 75 69 Mark & set Hood to body Helper 0.60 0.83 1 100 70 Hood Joint to body S/N 0.60 0.83 1 100 71 Zipper joint to body S/N 1.20 1.66 2 100

Sl.No. Operation Machines SAM/Pc Operators Require Actual Manpower Hourly Target @ 100% Eff 72 Mark for tannel att. Helper 0.60 0.83 1 100 73 Tannel Edge O/L 3 O/L 0.60 0.83 1 100 74 Punch to joint Eyelet At Tannel position PUNCH 0.30 0.42 75 Eyelet joint to Tannel position S/B 0.35 0.48 1 92 76 Tannel Att. To body S/N 1.40 1.94 2 86 77 Set sleeve to body & mark Helper 0.60 0.83 1 100 78 Sleeve joint to body 5 O/L 1.20 1.66 2 100 79 Sleeve top stc S/N 1.00 1.39 2 120 80 Lining joint Neck position S/N 0.75 1.04 1 80 81 Zipper two side close S/N 1.20 1.66 2 100 82 Tack to lace S/N 0.50 0.69 1 120 83 Gasset make & tack S/N 0.50 0.69 1 120 84 Gasset top stc with cuff run stc S/N 0.55 0.76 1 109 Page 29

CHAPTER FIVE CONCLUSION 6.1 Conclusion This research is based on some effective layout model of different garments items where to use balancing process using short cut method. Here it is suggested to follow pitch diagram method to identify bottleneck operations and to solve the problem by 100 percent balancing. During the research it is seen thread trimming is being done manually using helper which is non-value added unnecessary operation can be removed by setting auto trimmer along with machine or by using auto machine. The study shows that this balanced layout model has brought a better synchronization among man machine and materials increasing the efficiency and productivity. Traditionally operated garment industries are facing problems like unnecessary operations, wastage, rejection, poor line balancing etc. This problem can be eradicated by getting used with 5S (Sort, Set in order, Shine, Standardization and Sustain) method and making the working environment totally visualized. Here to achieve better quality and cost effective production Standard Operation procedure (SOP) is followed. By following SOP unnecessary operations are being able to find and due to follow standard procedure wastage and rejection will gradually come down at a tolerable level to zero. Thereafter in this way expected productivity and efficiency can be obtained which is the main goal of this research.

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