Available online at http://www.urpjournals.com International Journal of Fiber and Textile Research Universal Research Publications. All rights reserved ISSN 22777156 Original Article NEW POSSIBILITIES IN KHADI DESIGNING Dr. Shivi Rastogi and Dr. Suman Pant 1Assistant Professor, Clothing and Textile, Home Science Department 2Professor, Clothing and Textile, Home Science Department Banasthali University, Rajasthan 304022 shivi_rastogi27@yahoo.co.in Received 14 October 2016; accepted 01 December 2016 Abstract Different fabrics exhibit different behavior of drape; hence the garment silhouette made of different fabrics would be different in same garment style. Thus selection of textile materials with properties suitable for the silhouette and design of garment is very important in apparel industry. Six prototypes for adult girl s skirts (with different constructional details viz. godet, yokes, flares, gathers, pleats) were constructed with different cotton and poly khadi fabrics. They were finished with selective resin finishes viz. softening (silicone) and stiffening finish (acrylic). Consumer acceptability and aesthetic appeal of treated garments were assessed by hundred respondents on the basis of uniqueness, suitability of fabrics, design details and overall appearance by preference scale. Finishing treatment changed the look of constructed skirts, which was found very interesting and appealing by judges. 2016 Universal Research Publications. All rights reserved Keywords: Khadi, softening agent, silicone, acrylic 1. Introduction Colour and textures of khadi are such that it has become an inspirational fabric. It is a basic fabric which breathes therefore it can be worn in any climatic conditions. Khadi can be considered as the vocal representative of the Indian cottage industry. It coexists with the most modern spinning and weaving mills and faces tough competition from mill sector because of availability of mill made fabric in varying composition of fibers, yarns and weave structure. Earlier khadi was considered poor man s clothing or politician s garb. Today fashion designers are promoting khadi and it has found its way into wardrobe of niche market. Although khadi has become fashion fabric it is still not popular among masses especially young generation/ teenagers. Although designers are experimenting with different cuts and styles, unique texture of khadi limits its use in designing. Designing is basically limited to surface enrichment such as embroidery, patch work, use of bead, sequence. A perusal of the literature revealed that not much work has been reported on finishing of khadi fabrics. Two studies have been conducted which were limited to studying mechanical properties of khadi fabric by resin application (Vaddi Sarvani and Balakrishnaiah, 2007) or enzyme application. Designing aspect of khadi garments by finishing has been not studied so far. Therefore, investigator thought to extend application of finishes for modifying stiffness and drape of khadi fabric for its utility in garments designing. As mentioned before, khadi s hand limits its use in designing garment of particular styles. If stiffness vs softness and drape of khadi fabric is changed by finishing, its use can be multiplied in designing garments of different styles. It is assumed that application of resins, enzymes and starch will modify the khadi fabric s functional features like drapeability, hand and wrinkle recovery in case of resin. Thus there is scope to get the modification in khadi fabric such as coarse (or stiff) khadi can be converted into soft khadi; or very loose woven limp khadi fabric can be provided firm hand by finishing. Changes and modifications in stiffness and drape properties of fabrics by finishing treatments can be utilized for application into garments made of khadi fabrics. This study will help in modifying stiffness and drapeability of khadi fabric by finish application, which will in turn assist in designing garment of different styles. Results of the study will be useful for designers. 29
Special look garments can be prepared by changing silhouette, flares as well as folds (their no., size) etc. Based on this concept, work has been planned to find out the effect of application of finish on skirt type garment. Technique of modifying garment drape has been applied in different ways i.e. by using angular panels, circular fullness, gathers and by application of finishing agents. Objectives: To design and construct garment i.e. skirt. To study the effect of finishing agents on drape of designed skirts. To study the aesthetic appeal of designed and finished skirts. 2. Material and Methods: 2.1 Fabric Commercially available khadi fabrics in different thicknesses were used. These fabrics were purchased from Khadi Bhandar, New Delhi and Jaipur. Following fabrics were selected: a) 100% Cotton khadi: Thick, Medium and Fine. b) Polyester: Cotton khadi blend (65:35): Thick and Fine. 2.2 Development of designs for skirts Various designs were selected for designing of skirts and sketched on sheet. Modifications in basic skirts were done through different placement of treated panels or by finish application. Godet panels, frills, pleated and yoke patterns were used for developing designs for skirt on sheets. Total 30 sheets with varied styles were developed for skirts. 2.3 Assessment of design sheets Design sheets were evaluated by 100 respondents in Banasthali University. Sheets were shown to consumers and asked to rate each design on the basis of given rating scale given in (Table 2.3.1). Table 2.3.1: Five point rating scale used as a tool for visual analysis Grades Ranks Excellent 1 Very Good 2 Good 3 Average 4 Fair 5 Weighted mean score was calculated for each design and designs were ranked. Six top designs were selected for prototype development. 2.4 Preparation of basic skirt block Basic block of skirt was prepared following the measurement of 30 bust size dummy. Standard drafting procedure was followed as given in Handbook for Fashion Designing. (Ritu Jindal, 1998) Six skirts were designed incorporating different design features to study the drape characteristics of khadi and impact of finishing agents on drape. 2.5 Application of finishing agents to skirts and assessment of drapeability To study the effect of finishing agents on drape of designed skirts, finish (A) Acrylic and finish (B) silicone were applied below hipline of skirts. Finishes were applied by spray method and dried at 50 60 C temperature and then steam ironed for 1 minute. For simplicity of consumer application, curing was replaced by steam ironing. Finished skirts were draped on dress form, drape of skirt was studied. 2.6 Determination of Aesthetic appeal of designed skirts and of the skirts after finishing For aesthetic appeal, designed skirts were shown to 30 judges and the likingdisliking given by observers and their opinion were noted. Consumer was asked to analyze each on the basis of uniqueness of skirt, suitability of fabric for design, design details and overall appearance and give rank on five point rating scale. Mean weighted score was calculated for each skirt. Besides, photographs of designed skirts (without and with finish) were shown to judges and questions related to acceptability, change in drape after finishing, preference for unfinished, finished skirts were asked. Scores were added and converted into percentage. 3. Result and Discussion 3.1 Preference for skirts design sheets 30 different skirts of different patterns with different constructional details like yokes, pleats, gathers, godet and princess line etc. were drawn on sheets. Consumers were asked to analyze each on the basis of aesthetic appeal and give rank on five on point rating scale. (Table 3.1.1). Table 3.1.1: Consumer Preferences for Skirts Designs Sheet no. Weighted Mean Rank 1. 3.84 2. 3.78 3. 2.9 4. 3 5. 2.48 IV 6. 2.9 7. 3.88 8. 3.90 9. 3.10 10. 2.80 11. 3.46 12. 3.28 13. 2.03 I 14. 2.06 15. 3.24 16. 3.84 17. 3.08 18. 3.64 19. 2.62 V 20. 2.44 II 21. 2.68 VI 22. 3.32 23. 3.72 24. 3.92 25. 3.84 26. 2.48 III 27. 2.84 28. 2.90 29. 2.88 30. 2.70 30
Total thirty designs were developed for skirts. Out of these designs, only six designs were selected for garment construction which got highest mean weighted scores. Data in Table 3 shows that design sheet no 13 got I rank, sheet 3.1. (A) Final six designs for garment construction no 20 got II rank, sheet no 26 got III rank, sheet no 5 got IV rank while sheet no 19 and sheet no 21 got V and VI rank respectively. Therefore, these were selected for construction of skirt in Fig 3.1. (A) Design No. 5 Design No. 13 Design No. 19 Design No. 20 Design No. 28 Design No. 29 A Finish Acrylic Resin, B Finish Silicone softener 31
3.2 Effect of finish on drape of designed skirts Only acrylic finish and silicone finish were used for application on garment because other finishing agents did not markedly affect drape and hand properties in (Table 3.2.1) Table 3.2.1: Constructional details and type of finish used on design skirts S. No. Name of fabric Skirts Finishing agent Skirt codes 1. Cotton khadi Circular (heavy gathered) Silicone 1 2. Poly khadi Slim fit (handkerchief edges) Acrylic 2 3. Cotton khadi Yoke with gathers Silicone 3 4. Cotton khadi Godet skirt Silicone 4 5. Cotton khadi Wraparound pleated skirt Silicone 5 6. Poly khadi Heavy gathered/flared Acrylic 6 3.3 Effect of finishing agents on drape of skirt Effect of application of finishing agents on drape of skirts was studied. Table 5 shows application of acrylic and softener finishes on varying skirts in (Table 3.3.1) Thus it can be concluded that drape characteristics of varying skirt made of different khadi fabrics can be changed after finishing agents and different look can be achieved in garments through change in drape coefficient, shape, size, number and location of nodes. 3.4 The Aesthetic appeal of designed skirts Variations were found in acceptability of different cotton khadi and poly khadi skirts with varying construction details. It is evident from Figure 3.4.1 that all skirts have been liked by respondents. Skirt 2 and skirt 4 have got highest rank among the six skirts on the basis of uniqueness of design. Figure 3.4.3 shows that all design details are liked by the respondents. Among all the skirts, skirt 4 and skirt 2 respectively have got highest preferences. Figure 3.4.3. Consumer preferences for design details Figure 3.4.4 shows consumers judgment for overall appearance of the skirts. It is found that all the skirts are liked by respondents however, skirt 5 is least liked by respondents. Figure 3.4.1. Consumer rating for uniqueness of skirts It is clearly seen from Figure 3.4.2 that all the combinations are appreciated by respondents. Skirt 1 and skirt 4 have got highest ranks among all. Figure 3.4.4. Consumer rating for overall appearance Figure 3.4.2. Consumer preferences for suitability of fabrics 3.5 The Aesthetic appeal of finished skirts It is clear from Table 3.5.1 that skirts made of poly khadi and cotton khadi have been appreciated by all the respondents. Finishing of skirts further adds variation in the same skirt through change in drape, shape, size as well as number of nodes. (Table 3.5.1) Effect of finishing agents on drape of skirts has also been shown through Photographs (16) 4. Conclusion Application of finishes viz. acrylic and silicone finishing agents used on skirts showed that percent drape coefficient can be varied with these finishes which also changed number, shape and size of nodes. 32
Effect of finishing agents on drape of skirts has also been shown through Photograph (16) Photograph 1 (a) : Control Full circular flared skirt Photograph 1 (b) : Finished Full circular flared skirt Photograph 2 (a) : Control Slim fit skirt with handkerchief outer layer Photograph 2 (b) : Finished Slim fit skirt with handkerchief outer layer 33
Photograph 3 (a) : Control Yoke skirt with gathers Photograph 3 (b) : Finished Yoke skirt with gathers Photograph 10 (a) : Control Godet skirt with flares Photograph 10 (b) : Finished Godet skirt with flares 34
Photograph 4 (a) : Control Wrap Around Skirt Photograph 4 (b) : Finished Wrap Around Skirt Photograph 5 (a) : Control Heavy flared skirt Photograph 5 (b) : Finished Heavy flared skirt Application of finish at specific location on designed skirts also changed the look of such skirts. Drape coefficient of skirts decreased when softening finish was applied whereas it increased in skirts in which acrylic finish was used so number of nodes decreased. Skirts made of cotton khadi and poly khadi showed variation in appearance on finish application which was attributed to variation in fabric characteristics and also 35
Table 3.3.1: Drape characteristics of constructed skirts after application of finishes S. No. 1. Name of fabric Cotton khadi Fabric weight Heavy 2. Poly khadi Heavy Skirts Circular (with gathered frill) Slim fit (handkerchief edges) Finishing agent Area under drape (square inch) Percent drape coefficient before application of finish Percent drape coefficient after application of finish Silicone 734.46 72 (33) 59 (35) Acrylic 154.40 215 (10) 316 (8) 3. Cotton khadi Light Yoke with gathers Silicone 1526.01 29 (12) 27 (15) 4. Cotton khadi Medium Godet skirt Silicone 1549.52 26 (7) 21 (10) 5. Cotton Wraparound pleated Light khadi skirt Silicone 1934.66 22 (13) 18 (15) 6. Poly khadi Light Heavy gathered/flared Acrylic 888.29 56 (18) 70 (15) Note Figure in bracket shows number of nodes Table 3.5.1: Aesthetic appeal of finished skirts S. No. Yes No Nil 1 Acceptability 100% 2 Change in drape after 98% 2% finishing 3 Style is appealing 90% 2% 8% 4 Preference for a) Unfinished 10% b) Finished 30% c) Both 60% influence of finish. Aesthetic appeal was also judged by consumers. Skirts with the variation in designs were found appealing as they add unique look. Finishing changed the look of these skirts, which was found equally interesting and appealing by judges. Bibliography Arora P., 2008, India s Finest: Khadi Fabric [online] (Updated 24 June 2008) Available at: http:// www. articlebase.com./ india s Finest Khadi. [Accessed 21 May 2015] Booth, J.E., 1968. Principles of Textile Testing, 3rd ed., NewnessButterworth: London. Hall, A.J., 1980. The Standard Handbook of Textiles, 8th ed., London: Newness Butterworth, p. 372374. Hardt, P., 1984. Silicone, textilhilfsmittel Textileveredlung 19, pp.143146. Hussain T., Ahmed S., Qayum A., 2008. Effect of different softeners and sanforising treatment on pilling performance of polyester/ viscose blended fabrics, Coloration Technology 124 (12), pp. 375378. Jang K.O. and Yeh, K., 1993. Effect of Silicone Softeners and Silane Coupling Agents on the Performance Properties of Cotton Fabrics. Textile Research Journal. 63(10), pp.557565. Jindal Ritu, 1998. Handbook for Fashion Designing: Best Drafting Techniques, New Delhi: Mital Publishing. Karolia A. and Shetti V.R., 1998. Effect of resin cum softeners on CBUF, The Indian Textile Journal (9), pp.7679. Mukthy and Azim s, 2014. Effects of Resin Finish on Cotton Blended Woven Fabrics, International Journal of Scientific Engineering and Technology 3 (7), pp. 983990. Pant, Suman & Dr. Chaulkal B.N., 2002. Wool and Wool Blend Finishing, Banasthali University Newai: Navjeevan Publication. Sonee N., 2012. Effect of resin finishing on stiffness and drape of khadi fabric, International Journal of Engineering Research and Applications 4 (2) (3), pp.4752. Source of support: Nil; Conflict of interest: None declared 36