Colouring science (part 1) Trainer requirements to teach this lesson For this session you will need the following Handout.4.1 (2 pages) Manufacturer s shade chart Slide.4.1 Handout.4.2 Activity.4.2 Demerara sugar and white caster sugar Handout.4.3 (2 pages) Handout.4.4 Slide.4.4a Slide.4.4b Swatches of yellow and blue felt or fabric Handout.4.5a (2 pages) Slide.4.5a Handout.4.5b Slide.4.5b Handout.4.6 Activity.4.7 Litmus paper, temporary, semi, quasi and permanent colours and bleach, hydrogen peroxide, PPE, tint bowls and brushes Slide.4.7 Handout.4.8 (2 pages) Slide.4.8 (2 slides) Handout.4.9 Handout.4.10 (2 pages) Slide.4.10 Handout.4.11 Learner Check Session 4 Trainer notes The session will cover: 4.1 The principles of colour selection inlcuding the International Colour Chart (ICC) 4.2 How the type and distribution of melanin creates natural hair colour 4.3 Effects of light and artificial lighting on the appearance of hair colour Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 79 - Unit - Session 4.
4.4 How the natural pigmentation of hair affects the colouring and lightening process and the reasons for pre-lightening 4.5 The effects on the hair of different colouring products and lighteners and what is meant by the term oxidation? 4.6 Effects of temperature on the application and development of colouring products and lighteners 4.7 The ph values of different colouring products and lighteners 4.8 The importance of restoring the hair s ph balance after the colouring or lightening process and how and why pre colouring and post colouring treatments should be used 4.9 How the different strengths of hydrogen peroxide affect the colouring and lightening of the hair 4.10 How to dilute hydrogen peroxide to form different strengths of solutions 4.11 Why it is important to avoid disturbing areas that are still processing when removing products from developed areas and the importance of sectioning hair accurately when colouring Page 80 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Colouring science (part 1) 4.1 The principles of colour selection, including thr International Colour Chart (ICC) Learners may have covered this area of learning at Level 2. However, for such learners, it is important to recap the main points. Ref: Handout.4.1 Manufacturer s shade chart* *You need to refer to the manufacturer s shade chart throughout the explanation of this knowledge statement. Suggestion Have shade charts for the learners to look at during the explanation of the knowledge statement. Explain to learners that, before a stylist or barber can make a decision about a colour for a client s hair, they must understand the principles on which hair colouring is based. Tell learners that the colour spectrum is made up of seven colours and these are arranged in a specific order: red orange yellow green blue indigo violet Tell learners that, for hairdressing and barbering purposes, the last two colours, indigo and violet, have been combined and are referred to as violet or mauve. Ref: Slide.4.1 Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 81 - Unit - Session 4.
Show the slide to show the prism, colour wheel and colour star. Show how light through a prism separates into the visible spectrum. Show that from the colour wheel, indigo and violet has been combined to make the six points on the colour star. Draw attention to the fact that the colours are arranged in the correct order, either clockwise or anticlockwise and usually have red at the top. Emphasise that the three primary colours of pigment are: red yellow blue Tell learners that the other three colours are known as secondary colours, and they are: orange green violet Tell learners that the primary colours cannot be made by mixing other colours but the secondary colours can be made by mixing primary colours. For example: orange = a mix of red and yellow green = a mix of yellow and blue violet = a mix of blue and red. Ask learners to colour the prism, wheel and star on their handout. The International Colour Chart (ICC) Explain to learners that the colour wheel or star is very important when choosing colour in the salon. The colour star forms the basis of the International Colour Chart (ICC). All major colour manufacturers colours are based on this and most shade charts include a colour wheel or star. Page 82 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Explain that the ICC is a coding system and is used to: select colours for clients identify the depth and tone of natural hair and artificial colour Say that it is used internationally so a colourist in one country is able to identify the shade to use to match a client s existing colour, even although a different manufacturer s colour range is used and no client record is available. Stress that, if the client s hair colour needs to be corrected then the ICC and the colour wheel or star are very important because these help the stylist or barber to identify the best colour to use to achieve the desired effect. Show learners the manufacturer s colour chart and demonstrate how the colour star is represented on the chart. Summarise The principles of colour selection are: the colour wheel or star shows six colours of the spectrum in their correct order the three primary colours are red, yellow and blue the three secondary colours are orange, green and violet Keep reminding learners that by moving around the wheel or star they can make colour, by moving across, through the centre point, the colours neutralise each other. 4.2 How the type and distribution of melanin creates natural hair colour Ref: Handout.4.2 Explain to learners that human hair contains up to four colour pigments that are separated into two main groups of pigment called: melanin, (brown or black) pheomelanin (red or yellow) Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 83 - Unit - Session 4.
Say that the black pigment molecules are the largest, brown are next in size followed by red then yellow the smallest. Tell learners that the colour of the hair is dependent on the quantity of these pigments throughout the cortex. Explain that if there is a predominance of red and yellow pigments the hair will appear to be golden red. But, if there is a proportion of brown pigments distributed through the red and yellow then the yellow is likely to be overshadowed by the brown and the colour will appear to be auburn or copper depending on the amounts of the different pigments that are present. Say that if there are also some black pigments present the hair will look brown with red glints. Ref: Activity.4.2 Demerara and white caster sugar Show learners the demerara and the caster sugars. Ask them to look first at the brown sugar - it is dark in colour and each grain can be seen. Explain that this is because the grains are quite large. Then ask them to do the same with the white sugar it is lighter in colour and individual grains are more difficult to see because they are small. Say that this is one way of thinking about natural hair pigment the black and brown melanin pigment molecules are large so can be easily seen but the red and yellow pheomelanin pigment molecules are smaller and can be overshadowed by a small proportion of the larger melanin pigments. Carry out the activity with the learners. Tell them to note that they don t have to add a great deal of brown sugar before the overall appearance becomes darker. Explain that, when they start with dark and add light it will begin to look lighter because the mass of pigment is lighter, but they will have to add quite a lot to make a significant change. Page 84 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
4.3 Effects of light and artificial light on the appearance of hair colour Ref: Handout.4.3 (2 pages) Explain to learners that natural light from the sun contains many colours but the human eye cannot see all of them - it can only see seven. Say that these are the colours that make up the visible spectrum. The colours of the visible spectrum are the colours mentioned earlier when looking at the colour wheel and star: red orange yellow green blue indigo violet Tell learners that when these colours are combined we have white light daylight. Make it clear to learners that the individual colours of the visible spectrum can be seen if light is passed through a prism. This splits light into its colours and we can see seven of them. Tell learners that every time they look at a rainbow they are looking at the seven colours of the visible spectrum. If learners think of the following pneumonic: Richard Of York Gave Battle In Vain it will help them to remember the colours of the visible spectrum and the order in which they appear. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 85 - Unit - Session 4.
Explain that colour is seen through a process of reflection and absorption. The colour we actually see is produced by light reflecting off a surface. Say that, if all the colours of the visible spectrum are reflected, the object looks white and if all of the colours are absorbed the object looks black. If one colour is reflected and the other colours are absorbed it is the colour that is reflected that we see. Emphasise that hair colour is a reflection of the colour pigments within it. If hair is auburn it means that there is a predominance of red in it. Tell learners that light will reflect this red whilst absorbing the blue and violet end of the spectrum but ash hair will absorb more reds and yellows to leave the cooler blues reflected. Explain that artificial light may not contain all the colours of the Visible Spectrum (or natural white light). It may contain all of the colours but in incorrect proportions and the colour that we see (the colour that is reflected from a surface), is dependent on the proportions of colour that are emitted from the light source. Therefore, say that bad lighting can dramatically change the result of a client s colour service. The yellowish light given by domestic light bulbs increases the warmth seen in the hair and can make it look brassy. The bluish light from fluorescent tubes can make the hair look cooler and absorb warmth, making the hair look matt. Note Tell learners that photographers use different lights and filters to change the look completely. Tell learners that the best way to let a client view their colour is in natural daylight. Therefore, if the salon does not have a source of natural light, take them outside to see the colour result of the service. Ref: Research.4a Page 86 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Remind learners that artificial light can affect the appearance of the colour of the client s hair. Tell them that they must be able to identify the true colour of hair before colour correction can take place and that natural daylight is the best light to use for this. Ask learners to find information about lighting that can be used in salons. They should record the following in a short report: the different types of bulbs or lighting strips available the colour that the bulbs or strips emit where a daylight bulb or strip can be located the availability of energy saving light bulbs or strips The information can be found from: salon designers manufacturers websites Encourage learners to find their own sources for the research. 4.4. How the natural pigmentation of hair affects the colouring and lightening and the reason for pre-lightening process Ref: Handout.4.4 Explain that the amount of melanin and/or pheomelanin in the hair determines: the best products to use the amount of lift that can be achieved the strength of hydrogen peroxide to use Explain to learners that if the hair contains a lot of melanin, black and brown pigment, the colour will look quite dark and if the client wishes to achieve a light colour result it may be necessary to use bleach rather than permanent colour. Say that the reason for this is that permanent colourants, even although they are the strongest type of colourant, can only lift a certain number of shades. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 87 - Unit - Session 4.
Emphasise that the number of shades of lift that can be achieved by a tint varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. However, point out that many recommend that a normal tint will lift to a maximum of three shades, a high-lift tint may lift up to four or sometimes five shades. Ref: Slide.4.4 Show the slide and explain to learners that different products should be used according to the depth of the hair colour and the amount of lift required. It is important to point out that the chart should be used as a guide reference only. The strength of peroxide will vary from one manufacturer to another. Therefore, they must read and follow the manufacturers instructions. When discussing the chart point out the following: 1 When hair is toned after bleaching, 3% (10 Vol) is sufficient to prevent increased porosity. 2 The strength will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. 3 It is not always necessary to increase the strength of hydrogen peroxide to achieve a greater amount of lift when using high-lift tint because the tint provides the extra lift. However, some manufacturers may require a higher peroxide strength to be used. 4 If the bleach is not touching the scalp, some manufacturers may allow 12% (40 Vol) to be used. Pre-lightening Tell the learners that if the required amount of lift using a permanent or high-lift tint cannot be achieved, it may be necessary to pre-lighten the client s hair using bleach. Explain that the hair should only be lightened to the corresponding depth and tone of the required colour. Page 88 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Ref: Slide.4.4b Show the slide and explain to the learners the effects of bleaching and each corresponding depth of colour For example: A client with a natural base colour of 4 (medium brown) who wanted a colour of 8/34 would need to be prelightened to a yellow base. This corresponds to the depth of 8. Natural pigment Explain to learners that natural pigment is not only seen in hair colour but in skin colour, too. Tell them that their pigmentation can be traced back over the centuries to their forefathers. Explain that because the UK has a history of invasion, we are all of mixed race. Over many centuries the UK was invaded by Vikings with cool, blonde Norse skin and hair, Celts with warm, red hair and Romans with olive complexions. In addition to this, in more recent years, races have mixed because indigenous people have married people from different parts of the world who have settled here. Therefore, tell learners that most people fit fairly easily into either the warm or cool categories look at your client s eye colour, is it warm or cool (brown or blue)? is their skin tone cool (sallow, slightly yellowish) or warm (ruddy, pink)? Learners need to be aware that the amount of pigment present in the hair will affect the final result. For example: if the client has a lot of warm pigments (yellow, orange, red) in their hair the final colour result will be warm if the client has a lot of cooler pigments (blue, violet, green) present in their hair the resulting colour will be cool Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 89 - Unit - Session 4.
Remind learners that because the natural pigment is so influential in achieving the desired result they must complete a comprehensive consultation to ensure that they have properly identified it. Tell learners that they must always use a shade chart to match and identify the client s natural and artificial colours. Ref: Swatches of yellow and blue felt or fabric To illustrate how skin tones can be identified, remind learners of a childhood game they may have played where buttercups were held under the chin to reflect their colour. It was said that if the skin reflected the colour yellow, it meant that person liked butter. Give learners some swatches of felt or other cloth. Use primary colours blue and yellow and ask them to hold these under the chins of their colleagues to decide whether the skin has warm or cool tones. If yellow felt is reflected on the skin, this means that the skin has warm tones, if it is not reflected, it means that the skin has cool tones. If blue felt is reflected on the skin, this means that the skin has cool tones, if it is not reflected, it means that the skin has warm tones. Ask learners to look at their colleagues eyes when trying this activity. Yellow held near a cool skin will make the eyes recede, whereas if yellow is held near a warm skin, the eyes will become more noticeable (and vice versa for blue on cool skins). Page 90 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Do the activity in natural light, if possible, then in artificial light to find out what effect the light may have on their decisions. Explain to learners that this activity is a small example of the work that can be done to identify skin tones and the suitability of colours for clients. Colour analysis can be an extensive exercise and many clients have consultations with experts in this area. 4.5 The effects on the hair of different colouring products and lighteners and what is ment by the term oxidation Ref: Handout.4.5a (2 pages) Slide.4.5a Use the handout and slide to explain the effect of colouring, lightening and bleaching products on the hair. Remind learners that bleach changes hair pigment, it does not remove it. Ref: Handout.4.5b Slide.4.5b Use the handout and slide to illustrate the effects of colour and bleach on the hair structure. What is meant by Oxidation Explain that oxidation is the word given to a chemical process that involves the addition of oxygen. Say that when colouring and lightening hair, oxygen is used and this comes from hydrogen peroxide. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 91 - Unit - Session 4.
Remind learners Hydrogen peroxide is made up from two parts hydrogen and two parts oxygen (H2O2) Tell the learners that when hydrogen peroxide is mixed with permanent colour it oxidises the natural pigments of the hair and joins the small colour molecules of the permanent colour together to form larger molecules that remain in the cortex. Remind learners of the effects of colour and lighteners on the hair. 4.6 Effects of temperature on the application and development of colouring products and lighteners Ask learners to identify the way heat affects development or application of colourants and lighteners. The answers should include: a warm salon or adding heat speeds up development colour development will take longer if it is very cold when applying colour to virgin hair the hair at the roots will take more quickly due to the heat from the body - explain that this will have an effect on the way that the colour is applied when using lighteners in a warm environment the application needs to be quick as it starts to develop as soon as it is applied and continues to develop until it is removed if the room temperature is uneven then this may show up in the result. for example, if there is a draught on one side of the head from an open door or window the colour may develop more quickly on one side than the other heat added from a steamer will dilute the product and reduce its effectiveness Ref: Handout.4.6 Page 92 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Remind learners that hair colours and hair bleaches work by the process of oxidation. If oxidation does not take place then no change happens to the client s hair colour. Say that heat helps oxidation to occur by speeding up the chemical reaction. Tell learners that a simple way of thinking about it is to think of dissolving sugar it will dissolve quickly in hot water but very slowly in cold water. Emphasise that, if the salon is warm, the colour will develop quickly but if the salon is cool the process will slow down and development will take longer. Explain that if heat from an accelerator or similar equipment is added then the process will be speeded up. Say that some stylists and barbers forget about the effect of body heat. The heat from the scalp will radiate out to approximately one centimetre ( 1 /2 an inch) and this can have a marked effect on development of the product that is close to the roots. Emphasise that, on virgin hair, due to the effect of body heat, the product should be applied to the mid-lengths and ends then go back and apply to the roots. Say that by doing this an even effect will be achieved. Explain that, if the colour or lightener is applied straight through on a virgin head roots to points, then the roots are likely to be lighter or brighter than the rest of the hair. Tell learners that, when carrying out a virgin head colour application they must remember how far out from the scalp the heat can travel, i.e. 1 cm or 1 /2 an inch. Say that a simple way of measuring this is to take the mesh of hair between the first and second fingers and place the backs of the fingers against the scalp so that they are covering the hair at the roots. All of the hair that protrudes from between the fingers can be considered to be the mid-lengths and ends. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 93 - Unit - Session 4.
Stress to learners that they must be aware that if excessive heat is used during the development of colour or lightener, the hair may over process, the condition of the hair will deteriorate and the hair and scalp could be damaged. 4.7 The ph values of different colouring products and lightening products Ref: Activity.4.7 Litmus paper Temporary, semi-permanent, quasi and permanent colour and bleach Hydrogen peroxide PPE Mixing bowls and brushes Ask learners to dip their litmus paper into the mixes of colours and bleach. Ref: Slide.4.7 Show the slide and compare the results of the activity with those listed as a guide on the slide. 4.8 The importance of restoring the hair s ph balance after the colouring or lightening process and how and why pre and post colouring treatments should be used Ref: Handout.4.8 (2 pages) Explain to learners that when hair is chemically treated with an alkali product the cuticle is usually lifted out from the surface of the hair shaft and if the hair has been over processed, the cuticle may be damaged. The results of this are twofold: the hair looks rough and dry colours fade quickly Page 94 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Tell learners that the reason the hair looks rough and dry is because there is no smooth surface on the hair from which light can be reflected. Therefore, the hair looks dull. Explain that the reason why colours fade quickly is that the space between the cortex and the cuticle is widened so colour molecules can escape. Ask learners why warm colours are particularly affected by this. Answer should be that the molecules of warm colours (red and yellow) are small, therefore, they can easily escape through the space between the cortex and the cuticle. Tell learners that it is very important to bring the hair back to its normal state in order to prevent these effects. One way of restoring the hair s acidity is to apply a ph balancer. These are products that are designed to neutralise alkalinity and to introduce a mild acid to the hair. By doing this, the following effects are achieved: the cuticle is closed colour fade is reduced or prevented the hair s natural ph is restored Ref: Slide.4.8 Show the slide and explain the use of pre and post colouring treatments. Suggestion Have a range of pre and post colouring treatments for the learners to look at. Remind the learners how important the cosmetic look of the hair is. Restoring the ph gives the hair shine as the cuticle is smooth and light can reflect from it. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 95 - Unit - Session 4.
Ref: Research.4b This research is also covered in Unit H28 Provide colour correction services. Ask learners to contact a variety of hairdressing product manufacturers and investigate the range of pre and post colouring treatments available. Ask them to find out: how the products are used the effects of the products as described by the manufacturers the cost of the products Learners could be asked to take the research a stage further and try a range of the products on clients. Following the trial, ask learners to evaluate: the effect on the condition of the hair when using the products the effectiveness of one product compared to another Encourage learners to find their own methods of contacting manufacturers. 4.9 How the different strengths of hydrogen peroxide affect the colouring and lightening of the hair Ref: Handout.4.9 Tell learners that hydrogen peroxide is commonly used in hairdressing services. It is used for the oxygen it contains and is used in both the colouring and bleaching processes. Explain that, during the permanent colouring process the oxygen enters the cortex along with the colour molecule, they mix and oxidise. This causes the colour molecule to swell. Ask learners to imagine the oxygen being a mouse Page 96 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
and the colour molecule being a piece of cheese. The mouse goes into the hole (under the cuticle scale into the cortex). It eats the cheese (colour molecule) and gets bigger and bigger. Eventually it is too big to get out and remains trapped in the cortex. State that H2O2 is the chemical symbol for hydrogen peroxide. Explain that this symbol shows that it contains two atoms of hydrogen and two atoms of oxygen. Remind learners that this is very close to water, which is H2O. This symbol shows that water contains two atoms of hydrogen but only one atom of oxygen. Say that hydrogen peroxide comes in either a liquid or crème formula. It is an unstable solution that is not found in nature it has to be manufactured. It is literally oxygen suspended in water. Oxygen is a gas and if given the chance the extra atom in the H2O2 will evaporate into the atmosphere. Explain that this is what happens when H2O2 is put onto hair it escapes into the hair rather than the atmosphere. Emphasise that different strengths of hydrogen peroxide affect colouring and lightening because: the higher the percentage or volume strength of hydrogen peroxide, the more oxygen is available the more oxygen that is released into the hair, the higher the degree of lift that can be achieved if the requested result is to remain the same depth or be darker, less oxygen is needed so the percentage or volume strength of hydrogen peroxide should be low Explain that hydrogen peroxide is usually stabilised with an acid such as sulphuric or phosphoric acid. Say that this lies on the top of the solution to stop the oxygen escaping. Tell learners that if allowed to decompose (if the extra oxygen atom is allowed to escape) hydrogen peroxide will become water. This can happen when: air is allowed into the bottle it is stored near a heat source or in direct sunlight, allowing it to get hot foreign bodies, e.g. dust, are allowed to enter it Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 97 - Unit - Session 4.
Remind learners that hydrogen peroxide is flammable. PPE must always be used when handling hydrogen peroxide. 4.10 How to dilute hydrogen peroxide to form different strengths of solutions Ref: Handout.4.10 (2 pages) Tell learners that hydrogen peroxide can be diluted to make a weaker strength. Say that distilled water must be used for this process as tap water may have additives that could affect the result of the colour or the strength of the solution. Explain that the strength of hydrogen peroxide can be shown in two ways by a percentage or in volume strength. 3% = 10 Volume 6% = 20 Volume 9% = 30 Volume 12% = 40 Volume Go through the method of calculating the dilution of hydrogen peroxide: Example 1 Tell learners that there is only 40 volume hydrogen peroxide in stock and 30 volume hydrogen peroxide is required. Step 1 Take the strength required from the strength in stock 40 30 = 10 Step 2 The first number of the answer tells you how many parts of water are required (1 part) Page 98 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Step 3 Step 4 To determine the number of parts hydrogen peroxide required, use the first number of the volume strength required. In this case as the strength required was 30 volume, it is 3 parts that are required. Mix one part water with three parts of 40 volume hydrogen peroxide to achieve 30 volume peroxide. Example 2 Tell learners that there is only 9% hydrogen peroxide in stock and 3% hydrogen peroxide is required Step 1 Take the strength required from the strength in stock 9 3 = 6 Step 2 Step 3 Step 4 The number of the answer tells you how many parts of water are required (6 parts) To determine the number of parts hydrogen peroxide required, use the number of the percentage required. In this case as the strength required was 3%, it is 3 parts that are required. Mix six parts water with three parts of 9% to achieve 3%. Or break this down even further using the lowest common denominator 6 /3 = 2, 3 /3 = 1 so mix 2 parts water and 1 part 9% to achieve 3% Ref: Slide.4.10 Show the slide and ask learners to calculate the dilutions. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 99 - Unit - Session 4.
Answers 30 volume make = 2 parts water, 1 part H 2 O 2 10 volume 40 volume make = 1 part water, 1 part H 2 O 2 20 volume 6% make 3% = 1 part water, 1 part H 2 O 2 12% make 3% = 3 parts water, 1 part H 2 O 2 9% make 6% = 3 parts water, 6 parts H 2 O 2 (1 part to 2 parts) 4.11 Why it is important to avoid disturbing areas that are still processing when removing products from developed areas and the importance of sectioning hair accurately when colouring This can be used as subject matter for discussion. At this stage of their training, Level 3 learners should already know the importance of working neatly and taking care when removing products whilst other products are still developing. Ref: Handout.4.11 Ask learners for examples of when it may be necessary to segregate specific areas of the hair during colouring services. Answers could include: when identifying slices that are to be coloured when separating hair for block colouring when weaving hair when isolating specific areas Explain the other reasons for neat sectioning are to: work quickly and neatly see where they are working at all times avoid product leakage look professional save time Page 100 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
It also: helps them to add colour only where needed aids client comfort reduces product wastage Avoiding the disturbance of other areas Explain to learners that it is important to avoid disturbing areas that are still processing when removing products from developed areas. Say that this is because if they cause a disturbance they may cause packages that are still in place to seep or leak. This means that colour could leak from the packages. Tell learners that if they disturb an area before it is time to do so they may remove product before it is ready. By avoiding such disturbance they can ensure that the colour is allowed time to complete its development. Summary Sectioning hair accurately ensures: that areas for colour correction are isolated from other areas there is even coverage methodical completion of the service Avoid disturbing areas that are still developing to: make sure that the colour is allowed to complete its development prevent leaks or seepage from foils or packets that are still in place Now use the Learner Check for Session 4 to check the understanding of the learners. Use Research.4a and.4b to encourage independent learning. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 101 - Unit - Session 4.
Page 102 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Colouring science (part 1) Learner Check 1. State all of the colours of the visible spectrum. 2. Specify which colours are the primary colours and which are the secondary colours. 1. Red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, violet 2. Primary colours Red, Yellow, Blue Secondary colours Orange, Green, Violet (Mauve) 3. How is an unwanted colour tone neutralised? 4. What colour pigment(s) does pheomelanin contain? 5. If a substance looks to be green in colour what part of the visible spectrum is being reflected? 6. Does a quasi-permanent colourant need to be skin tested? 7. How far out from the scalp will body heat radiate? 8. Name one acidic product used in hair colouring. 9. What are the effects of a post colouring treatment? 3. By applying the colour that is directly opposite the unwanted tone on the colour wheel/star remembering to go through the central point 4. Pheomelanin contains red and/or yellow pigments 5. The green part 6. Yes because it contains a percentage of para colourant 7. Approximately 1cm ( 1 /2 an inch) 8. Either of: temporary colour stabilised hydrogen peroxide 9. All three answers are required: restores the hair s natural ph reduces or prevents colour fade closes the cuticle Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 103 - Unit - Session 4.
Colouring science (part 1) Learner Check 10. State three circumstances in which hydrogen peroxide will decompose 11. What is meant by the term oxidation? 10. All three answers are required: if it is heated if dust or other foreign bodies get into it if air gets into it 11. A chemical process that involves the addition of oxygen Page 104 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Colouring science (part 1) Trainer Summary 4.1. The principles of colour selection including the International Colour Chart (ICC) Remind learners of: how light is refracted through a prism how the colour wheel is designed how the colour star or wheel is designed about the three primary colours and the three secondary colours of pigment Recap on how to neutralise or cancel out unwanted tones. Remind learners that the ICC is used as a coding system and to help in choosing colours. 4.2. How the type and distribution of melanin creates natural hair colour Recap on melanin and pheomelanin and remind learners about their sizes. Remind learners of how the concentration of pigment will affect the final results of colouring. 4.3. The effects of light and artificial lighting on the appearance of hair colour remind learners of the visible spectrum the rainbow how different light can alter the colour result show results in daylight 4.4. How the natural pigmentation of hair affects the colouring and lightening process and the reasons for pre-lightening Reiterate that the type and amount of pigment in the hair governs the amount of lift possible and determines the best product to use and the strength of H 2 O 2 effect of pre-lightening the hair Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 105 - Unit - Session 4.
4.5. The effects on the hair of different colouring products and lighteners and what is meant by the term Oxidation Remind learners where the different types of colours are deposited on the hair structure. Reiterate to learners about the effect of bleach changing, not removing pigment. Remind learners that Oxidation is a chemical process thaqt involves the addition of oxygen 4.6. The effects of temperature on the application and development of colouring products and lighteners Remind learners: a warm salon or added heat will speed the development a cool room will slow down development Remind learners about the effects of body heat when deciding on the order of application to a virgin head. 4.7. The ph values of different colouring products and lighteners Remind learners that most colouring and bleaching products are alkaline and that only temporary colours and stabilised H2O2 are acidic. 4.8. The importance of restoring the hair s ph balance after the colouring or lightening process and how and why pre and post colouring treatments should be used when colouring, lightening and bleaching hair Confirm the reasons for restoring the natural ph: close the cuticle prevent colour fade restore the ph Remind learners of the methods of use of pre and post colouring treatments. Page 106 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Reiterate the reasons for applying these treatments: to remove barriers to even out porosity to strengthen the cortex to close the cuticle to prevent moisture loss and colour fade and to bring the hair back to its natural ph 4.9. How the different strengths of hydrogen peroxide affect the colouring and lightening of the hair Remind learners of the three main factors: the greater the strength the more oxygen is available the more oxygen used the higher the lift if no lift is required keep the strength low 4.10. How to dilute hydrogen peroxide to form different strengths of solutions Recap on the method of calculating dilution. 4.11 Why it is important to avoid disturbing areas that are still processing when removing products from developed areas and the importance of sectioning hair accurately when colouring Recap the reasons: to prevent seepage or leaks to ensure that the products are allowed to complete their development to ensure even coverage to allow methodical completion of the service to isolate areas for colour correction Research.4a and Research.4b Set a date for the completion of the research projects. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 107 - Unit - Session 4.
Colouring science (part 1) Key/Core Skill Opportunities There will be an opportunity to promote discussion when covering:.4.2.4.4.4.6.4.7 Activity using demerara and white sugar The use of fabric swatches to identify skin tones Discussion about the use of heat with colouring products Testing products for their ph value There will be an opportunity to promote numeracy skills when:.4.10 Calculating dilution of hydrogen peroxide There will be an opportunity to read and summarise extended documents when completing the research for.4a How artificial light can affect the colour result There will be an opportunity to write different types of documents when completing the research for.4a.4b How artificial light can affect the colour result Pre and post colouring treatments There will be an opportunity to improve own performance when studying.4a.4b How artificial light can affect the colour result Pre and post colouring treatments Page 108 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
There will be an opportunity to explore, develop and derive information when researching the internet for.4a.4b How artificial light can affect the colour result Pre and post colouring treatments There will be an opportunity to use Information Technology skills when writing the report for:.4a.4b How artificial light can affect the colour result Pre and post colouring treatments Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 109 - Unit - Session 4.
Page 110 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.