Functional ingredients HELIOGEL LECIGEL The versatile gelling agents Emulsifying properties Easy-to-use Sensorial gel-cream textures
Heliogel is a patented gelling agent with emulsifying properties conferred by sunflower phospholipids. Specially designed for the formulation of gel-cream textures, it gives a sensorial skin feel and offers a creative approach to the formulator. The 3-in-1 texturizing agent Lucas Meyer Cosmetics has synergistically combined the gelling properties of a polymer with the emulsifying properties of sunflower phospholipids to obtain a self-emulsifying system. With its multifunctional profile, Heliogel is an essential formulating partner which can successfully be used in all kinds of face and body care with a 3-in-1 action: Thickening power 1 8 6 4 2.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3 % Heliogel It thickens formulas from.5% Heliogel has an increasing thickening power depending on the pourcentage of use. It emulsifies all types of oil phases and makes the obtaining of O/W gel-creams easier, without additional emulsifier or HLB calculation. It requires neither predispersion nor neutralization and can be hot or cold processed. It is preferable to add Heliogel into the oil phase although it can be mixed directly with the aqueous phase under strong stirring. It stabilizes emulsions from.2%. Moreover, sunflower phospholipids, naturally rich in essential fatty acids, restore the cutaneous balance and reduce TEWL thanks to their film-forming properties. They offer emollience and protection to the epidermis keeping the skin moisturized. Compatibilities 6 5 4 3 2 ph compatibility Heliogel is stable over a wide range of ph. It gelifies from ph 2 to 12 with an optimal viscosity between ph 4 and 8. It is also compatible with ethanol and with electrolytes. 1 2 4 6 8 1 12 ph Emulsion with 3% Heliogel
For a unique sensorial skin feel Heliogel and lecigel can be incorporated in a large range of applications: face, body, sun and hair care. They offer unique gel-creams with the typical phospholipid touch characterized by a cool, soft and silky skin feel. Their unctuous texture melts upon application without leaving a tacky after-feel and gives to the skin a long-lasting velvety feeling and a sensation of well-being and comfort. Studied by an expert panel, formulation with Heliogel was found to be cooler (+9.4%) and less tacky (-17.5%) compared to a formulation with a benchmark competitor product. 7 6 Sensorial properties +9.4% The sensorial profiles of aqueous gels containing either HELIOGEL or LECIGEL were evaluated by an expert panel. Score 5 4 3-17.5% Penetration Film-forming Picking 1 8 6 4 2 Slipping Coolness 2 Coolness after 1 min Tacky after-feel after 1 min Formula 3.48.1: benchmark competitor (3%), phenonip (.5%), water (up to 1%) Formula.49.5: Heliogel (3%), phenonip (.5%), water (up to 1%) Softness Spreadability Tacking Greasiness Whitening (application) Formula.62.1 C92: Lecigel (1.75%), preservatives (.8%), water (up to 1%) Formula.62.2 C92: Heliogel (2.5%), preservatives (.8%), water (up to 1%) Heliogel and Lecigel have quite the same sensorial profile. They give similar results on most items such as good slipping power, good softness, good spreadability and a cool effect when applied. Easy to spread, formulas are rapidly absorbed by the skin. However, the oil-free gel-creams formulated with Lecigel are less greasy and less tacky than gel-creams obtained with Heliogel. Heliogel and Lecigel give outstanding textures to formulas
With Lecigel, rediscover all the sensorial qualities of Heliogel with more polyvalent technical performances: easier-to-use, more concentrated and for oil-free formulating. Second generation of 3-in-1 texturizing agent Second generation of versatile gelling agent, Lecigel is a multivalent ingredient which combines in the same time emulsifying properties of lecithin with thickening and texturizing effects of a polymer. It has been optimized on different points such as the process use, the polyvalency and the impact on the color rendering in the emulsion. Concentrated in active matter, the Lecigel powder form is extremely effective even when used at a low level. 8 Thickening power As an O/W emulsifier, Lecigel can be formulated with all types of oil phases, either alone from.5% or combined with a large variety of other emulsifiers. Used from.1%, it stabilizes perfectly emulsions. 6 4 2 Easier-to-use, Lecigel allows a better dispersion either in oil or water phase, or can be easily added at any stage of the formulation process. It is suitable for both hot and cold processes or through one-pot process. It is not shear-sensitive which allows the use of all types of mixing systems. Emulsion with 1.5% Lecigel.5 1 1.5 % Lecigel Lecigel provides white oil-free gel-creams. Compatibilities Lecigel can be formulated with a high amount of ethanol and over a wide range of ph. It is also compatible with electrolytes. Lecigel is perfectly adapted to high level of ethanol up to 2%. 12 1 8 6 4 2 Ethanol compatibility 5 1 15 2 25 3 % Ethanol Emulsion with 1.5% Lecigel
Product description Heliogel inci name Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) Hydrogenated polyisobutene (and) Phospholipids (and) Polyglyceryl-1 stearate (and) Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil Appearance Beige paste Formulation Add into oil phase or water phase Hot or cold process No pre-dispersion or neutralization optimum ph 4-8 but usable from 2 to 12 DOsage.2-3% applications - Emulsifier for gel-creams (from 1%) - Viscosity adjuster for all kinds of emulsions (from 1%) - Stabilizer for all kinds of emulsions (from.2%) Summer Shine Gel-Cream 11.291.1 C121 IngrEdient Inci name % A Deionised water Water 77.5 Dermofeel PA-3* Sodium phytate (and) Water.1 Chlorphenesin Chlorphenesin.3 FDC red 4 Water (and) CI 147.1.1% solution FDC yellow 5 Water (and) CI 1914.85.1% solution B Heliogel Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) Hydrogenated 3. polyisobutene (and) Phospholipids (and) Polyglyceryl-1 stearate (and) Helianthus annus (sunflower) seed oil Dub inin Isononyl isononanoate 5. Cetiol S Diethylhexylcyclohexane 2.5 Dermofeel Sensolv* Isoamyl laurate 2.5 Dermofeel BGC* Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate 3. Dermofeel Toco 7 Tocopherol (and) Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil.2 non GMO* C Chlorhexidine Water (and) Chlorhexidine digluconate.2 Digluconate 2% solution D Melitane Glycerin (and) Water (and) Dextran (and) Acetyl hexapeptide 15. E Relax 22/2 Fragrance.2 ph: 5.5-6. Viscosity (Rheo ELV 8, spindle 4, 6 rpm, 3 mn): 6-7 mpa.s Product description Lecigel inci name Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) Lecithin Appearance Beige powder Formulation Add into oil phase or water phase. Hot or cold process No pre-dispersion or neutralization Viscosity adjuster at the process end optimum ph 4-8 DOsage.1-2% applications - Emulsifier for gel-creams (from.5%) - Viscosity adjuster for all kinds of emulsions (from.5%) - Stabilizer for all kinds of emulsions (from.1%) Cooling Gel-Cream 9.22.5 C88 IngrEdient Inci name % A Deionised water Water 76.8 FDC blue 1 Water (and) CI 429.35.1% solution Chlorphenesin Chlorphenesin.3 Dermofeel PA-3* Sodium phytate (and) Water.1 FDC yellow 5 Water (and) CI 1914.1.1% solution B Lecigel Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) Lecithin 1.75 C Dub inin Isononyl isononanoate 4. Dermofeel BGC* Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate 3. Myritol 318 Caprylic/capric triglyceride 3. Dermofeel Toco 7 Tocopherol (and) Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil.2 non GMO* D Hydraporine Betaine (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and) Hydrogenated 3. Lecithin (and) Honey (and) Pectin Capt-System B9 Water (and) Lecithin (and) Alcohol (and) Glycerin (and) 2. Folic acid Suprem WP Kiwi Water (and) Actinidia chinensis (kiwi) seed oil (and) Lecithin 2. (and) Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (and) Glycerin (and) Glyceryl stearate Hydralphatine Asia Glycerin (and) Propylene glycol (and) Sorbitol (and) 1. Bambusa vulgaris leaf/stem extract (and) Nelumbo nucifera flower extract (and) Nymphaea alba flower extract E Covabead PMMA Polymethyl methacrylate 2. F Chlorhexidine Water (and) Chlorhexidine digluconate.2 digluconate 2% solution G Tendresse 381/2 Fragrance.2 * Distributed in France by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics. ph: 5.5-6. Viscosity (Rheo ELV 8, spindle 4, 6 rpm, 3 mn): 7-8 mpa.s
FEATURES AND BENEFITS Features Phospholipid-based gelling-emulsifying agents Sensorial study Heliogel : high compatibility over a wide ph range Lecigel : high compatibility with ethanol Benefits Formulation of gel-creams Silky and light skin feel Wide range of applications Wide range of applications Summary INCI Heliogel Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) Hydrogenated polyisobutene (and) Phospholipids (and) Polyglyceryl-1 stearate (and) Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil Lecigel Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) Lecithin Appearance Paste Powder Introduction Oily phase especially Any step Hydration phase No No ph 2-12 4-8 Main emulsifier dose 1-3%.5-2% Viscosity adjuster dose 1-3%.5-2% Stabilizer dose.2-3%.1-2% Stability with alcohol ++ +++ Stability with electrolytes ++ + This brochure is not intended for consumers and neither this brochure nor any extract thereof shall be used in order to commercialize products to consumers. No drawing, photograph or other extract derived from this brochure shall be used by any person without our prior written approval. As well, no claim with respect to the ingredient referred to in this brochure shall be made by any person without our prior written approval, even though the claim is set forth in this brochure. The person using the ingredient referred to in this brochure in the formulation of finished products is solely responsible for ensuring that the use made of the ingredient, the finished products marketed to consumers, their packaging, labelling and advertising materials and the claims made with respect to the finished products and the ingredient comply with all applicable laws and regulations. We hereby disclaim any warranty of suitability of the ingredient referred to in this brochure for any purpose. Any prospective user of the ingredient shall himself determine the suitability of the ingredient for his intended use and, as the case may be, obtain the required regulatory approvals for the commercialization of his finished products. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics April 212 Lucas Meyer Cosmetics s.a.s. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics canada Inc. ZA les Belles Fontaines 99 route de Versailles 9116 Champlan - France T: +33 ()1 69 1 69 69 - F: +33 ()1 69 1 69 7 Place de la Cité, Tour de la Cité 26 boul. Laurier, #9 Québec (Québec) - G1V 4W2 Canada T: +1 418 653-6888 - F: +1 418 653-65 join the spirit www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com info@lucasmeyercosmetics.com