Using Machines to Power up Your Treatments Part 2 Webisode Booklet Text copyright by The International Dermal Institute. No part of this text may be reproduced in any way without written permission from The International Dermal Institute. 010615
Meet The International Dermal Institute What's the difference between a licensed aesthetician and a Professional Skin Therapist? IDI, of course! For more than 30 years, we have pushed skin therapy education to its limits, redefining professional excellence every step of the way. We train more than 75,000 skin therapists per year, offering the most challenging and rewarding postgraduate skin and body therapy curriculum in the world. Created by a skin therapist, for skin therapists. Our legacy began in 1983, after tenured skin therapist Jane Wurwand emigrated to the United States from the United Kingdom. At the time, there was no quality postgraduate skin therapy education program in the U.S. In fact, skin care was combined with cosmetics as part of the beauty industry! So Jane, accustomed to the U.K.'s higher standards for training, established The International Dermal Institute. Her goal? To raise the bar of the professional skin care industry, and bring more respect and success to professional skin therapists. Today, IDI has 38 postgraduate training centers worldwide, 18 of which are located in the U.S.A. We maintain the international gold standard for postgraduate skin and body therapy training, and we continue to offer our students the unique opportunity to reach their personal best. Always in the know. IDI is at the forefront of research and development of game-changing skin treatments and techniques, as well as products for Dermalogica the number one choice of skin care professionals worldwide. Our award-winning curriculum evolves with the latest research and findings from our world-renowned skin experts, who are frequently sought for trade magazines, guest blogger events and online webinars. Our expertise, combined with 24/7 access to webisodes, online tutorials, social media chats and more, keeps our students motivated and on the cutting edge of all things skin. If you haven't already, register at dermalinstitute.com to take full advantage of the wealth of knowledge at your fingertips. You can also follow @dermalinstitute on Twitter and Facebook for answers to your questions, and the latest updates on web and guest speaker events! Redefining professional excellence. IDI is committed to developing the best skin therapists in the business, and helping our students stand out when seeking employment. IDI-certified skin therapists, trained with our signature techniques, are highly regarded around the world. With IDI as your educational partner, your career is bound for excellence and your clients will be begging for more! 2
Before You Begin Using Machines... Consultation and check for contraindications on: Consultation card Consent forms Treatment logs Post care instructions Check with local agencies on regulations before performing: Board of Cosmetology or Skin Therapy Medical Board Insurance Liability Company Additional considerations: Is the procedure within your scope of practice? Certification Licensing Insurance Manufacturer training and protocols The material provided in this webisode and workbook is strictly for information and educational purposes only. Before performing any of these treatments viewers are urged to check with their board of regulations, gain the necessary training and certification, as well as follow the professional manufacturer s directions. Treatment Options Please note that not all combinations should be performed during the same treatment; doing so may cause too much stimulation. Instead choose one or two options maximum when incorporating devices in a treatment. 3
Chemical Peels Chemical peels can be used alone and are an alternative to physical exfoliation. This advanced form of exfoliation may be combined with other services such as microdermabrasion, intense pulsed light (IPL) or used before laser. Today s agents for peeling are more cutting edge and commonly combine various ingredients; some examples are Salicylic Acid (excellent as a degreasing agent to prep the skin), Enzymes, Lactic Acid and Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA). These ingredients can even be combined on the skin to target multiple concerns and enhance exfoliation. After applying to the skin, chemical peels are often left on for a set amount of time and may be layered before being removed with a neutralizing solution. Chemical peels are a great alternative for skin concerns that may be contraindicated to microdermabrasion such as pustular breakouts, telangiectasia, excess skin or if a deeper level of exfoliation is required. Microdermabrasion Microdermabrasion, a superficial form of physical exfoliation, can include the use of crystals or diamond tips that are crystal free. A vacuum suction is used in conjunction, helping to remove debris off of the skin. Hydrodermabrasion: The next generation of microdermabrasion that incorporates the use of serums or water to assist with exfoliation and improve hydration. Dermafiling: Dermafiles consist of crushed diamonds on the end of a file, similar to a diamond tip microdermabrasion machine but without any wires or tubes attached. 1. If microdermabrasion is performed improperly, it can leave track-like marks on the skin. 2. Avoid heavy pressure or excessive rubbing. 4
Disclaimer: The following modalities are best performed in a medical environment or under the guidance of a physician as these modalities require an advanced knowledge of the skin, additional insurance and possess a level of danger that could occur. Dermaplaning Dermaplaning is also a physical form of exfoliation, however, it can be combined with chemical exfoliating agents (enzymes, chemical peels) for targeted solutions. Dermaplaning consists of a surgical steel blade applied to taut skin in a back and forth motion, thus removing debris and vellus hair. 1. Moles, broken skin or pustular breakouts should be avoided. 2. Training is imperative before offering the service to clients. 3. Incorrect application can damage the skin or create a rash. 4. The client should remain still to avoid nicking an area of the face. 5. Check the consultation card to ensure it s a suitable procedure for the client. Skin Needling Skin needling may also be known as collagen induction therapy, micro needling, dermal needling, or derma rolling. The device may be in the form of a pen or a roller and contains fine, tiny needles ranging in length from 0.25mm up to 2mm. When passed over the skin, tiny wounds are created that cause stimulation and facilitate rejuvenation. Skin therapists outside of a medical setting should only use a device that falls within 0.25mm-0.5mm; this range of length is designed to create a controlled level of skin regeneration. Skin needling is ideally used to improve the appearance of wrinkles, acne scarring, hyperpigmentation, loss of elasticity and sun damage. 5
1. Understand how the skin responds to injury and inflammation before performing skin needling on your client. 2. Check for any contraindications such as medications, medical history and sun habits. 3. If your state does not allow the use of lancets, needles, or permanent makeup, this device may be out of your scope of practice. 4. Avoid applying ingredients that could be irritating or congesting to the skin following skin needling such as artificial fragrance, dyes or color additives, emollients that use petrochemical by-products, hydroxy acids, photosensitizing exfoliants, and lipophilic Vitamin C. Light Emitting Diode (LED) LED is a low energy, non-ablative device that emits an exact wavelength into the skin to stimulate and energize cellular activity. This non-invasive procedure activates cells with pulses of low level, non-coherent, and nonthermal light energy. Since LED does not generate or use heat, it is commonly combined with other treatments such as exfoliation, IPL and laser. Blue Light: used for acne Red Light: used for collagen rebuilding and aging concerns Newer technologies may include Green or Yellow Light for vascular concerns 6
Intense Pulse Light (IPL) IPL devices use flashes of light and will vary in wavelength, falling between 400-1400 nm. Cut-off filters within the hand-piece will determine exact range, allowing IPL to be optimized for different applications and skin types. Once the light is absorbed by its selected chromophore or target, the tissue is then heated and later removed by the body. IPL may be used for treatment of fine lines, pigmentation or texture concerns, hair removal, acne and vascular concerns such as spider veins or Telangiectasia. IPL devices are considered to be a non-ablative option and there is usually no downtime with treatments as the epidermis remains intact. 1. Check for contraindications such as epilepsy, history of keloid scarring or the use of photosensitizing medications. 2. Use appropriate eyewear for the client and the therapist. 3. Clients may feel a slight sting or rubber band like snap when IPL is triggered. This can be eased by using a numbing agent, cool air or an ice pack on the skin. Disclaimer: The material provided in this webisode and workbook is strictly for information and educational purposes only. Before performing any of these treatments you are urged to check with the local board of regulations, gain the necessary training and certification, as well as follow the professional manufacturer s directions. 7
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