SHAW ACADEMY NOTES Diploma in Beauty
Diploma in Beauty Part 1 Lesson 1 Optimize Skincare for your Skin Type Beauty means something different to everyone and you ll find that everyone has different tastes and styles and it s important to find your own. The Skin Structure and Function Structure of the Skin: The skin has 3 layers 1. Hypodermis - also known as the subcutaneous layer it s the deepest part of the skin this is where your nerves and blood vessels lie 2. Dermis - the middle section this consists of connective tissue and cushions the body from stress and strain 3. Epidermis - the outer layer that we see and touch, it is made up of flat scale like cells that are dying and waiting to fall off natural exfoliation process Collagen and Elastin Collagen and elastin are both proteins found in the deeper layers of the skin that help keep skin strong, supple and youthful they break down naturally as we age. Functions of the Skin: -Protection: the skin acts as a barrier to all external pathogens that s any bacteria or germs that may cause infection. -Sensation: the skin is the first sensory receptor of heat, cold touch or pain.
-Temperature: it regulates body temperature by the veins dilating to release and constricting to keep heat in. -Excretion: waste products are released from the body and released on the surface of the skin through sweat. -Vitamin D: the skin plays a part in the synthesis of Vit D which is essential for bone health -The skin is constantly renewing itself, we shed 30000 cells every minute Free Radicals: These are cells that have become damaged and unstable by daily pollutants we come in to contact with in the environment, smoking, a poor diet etc. (internal and external factors) and then bounce around the body damaging any cells they come into contact with. These are the BADDIES of the skin! Skin Types: Dry - Lacking Oil, Dull, Tight, Flaky. It will feel tight and as it is lacking in oil the barrier function can be comprised so it can become sensitised and appear red and flaky. Best to use a cream cleanser. Oily - Oily skin has more active sebaceous glands, has larger pores and can be shiny looking especially around the T-Zone. Best to use a clay, oil or foam cleanser Normal - Normal skin has good hydration levels and balanced sebaceous glands. Will still needs to be cleansed regularly to maintain it. Foam and clay cleansers are best to use Combination will depend on which type of combination you are but once you define which you will be able to find a combination of products that suit your individual needs Mature - Cleansers containing AHAs are amazing for this skin type as they will increase the skins renewal and promote a more radiant fresh complexion Acne - Acne prone skin types typically tend to have a Higher number of sebaceous glands secreting a thicker oil. These scars can be very slow to heal which can cause scarring of the skin. Salicylic Cleanser and Benzol peroxide cleanser will be best to use Dehydrated - Skin cells lacking water, Fine lines and wrinkles more noticeable, Cellular function reduced. Dehydration will increase the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Skin will appear parched and stretched. Best to use a cream cleanser Sensitive skin - Sulphate-free/ Paraben-free/ Acid-free cleansers will be best to use on this skin type
Male skin Because of testosterone levels in men the skin will be thicker (roughly20%). Oilier as there are more pores and more active sebaceous glands and will age differently than women. Caring for the Skin: MAKEUP WIPES ARE A BIG NO NO because they are: Full of stripping alcohol, full of chemicals, contain preservatives, moves dirt and grime around the face blocking pores and push makeup into the pores Morning Cleanse - In the morning we have to cleanse off the previous night creams, as the skin regenerates overnight there will be by products such as oils and dead skin cells that need to be removed. Cleansing at any time of the day will help stimulate lymph flow to drain toxins and increases blood flow for more oxygen circulation in the skin. Night time Cleanse - At night we will do a double cleanse, the first of which is needed to remove makeup or products we may have applied earlier in the day and they could clog the pores if left on for the night, the second cleanse will cleanse deeper into your pores. It s also going to remove any environmental stresses and your squeaky clean skin will allow for better penetration of rejuvenating night products that you will be using. Buffing powder and Exfoliants- Micro exfoliating or buffing products are very gentle on the skin and work very superficially i.e. they are just working directly on the surface of your skin and are not penetrating to lower layers. Exfoliants work a little harder on the skin hence why they are not used as often. Facial Brushing is another form of exfoliation that will increase circulation and result in a deep and thorough clean. Toner Used to balance to ph of the skin (5.5) and used to tighten pores. Can be used to hydrate or combat oiliness depending on the ingredients. Come in a bottle or in spritz contained for easier application. Serum - gives extra nourishment to the skin in the form of peptides plumping up skin, stimulating collagen and elastin. They have better penetration than a moisturiser due to its molecular structure Eye Cream The skin around the yes is so delicate and requires a cream or serum with a different molecular structure as a result. Like the rest of the skin on the face it can become dry or dehydrated and is an area that a lot of people get little white heads known as milia. Eye cream can help prevent these milia as well as treating puffiness, dark circles and premature aging
Moisturiser Should be used by all skin types even oily as the skin can be still dehydrated. Moisturising will make skin more elastic and supple and should be used by men and women, but it must be specific to your skin type. SPF Sun Protection Factor - Sun Protection Factor is essential every day not just in direct sunlight. It will protect against damage such as premature ageing brought on by damage to the collagen and elastin in your skin, skin cancers, pigmentation, burning and other conditions that can occur due to the effects of UVA and UVB rays All of the above is to be done on a daily basis and then once a week a deeper form of exfoliation and mask should be applied to the skin. Notes
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