Zemea Propanediol : Optimizing Formulations Using a Natural Solvent and Humectant Skincare Ingredients 2013 June 12, 2013 Denis Burlaud Account Manager, Europe Bob Miller, Technical Consultant
DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products Joint venture formed in 2004 between DuPont and Tate & Lyle to produce propanediol from corn sugar, a sustainable & renewable resource DuPont is a world leader in science and innovation across a range of disciplines, including agriculture and industrial biotechnology, chemistry, biology, materials science and manufacturing. 2012 revenue was $35.3 billion. Tate and Lyle is a global provider of renewable ingredients, solutions and services to the food, beverage and industrial customers. Headquartered in London, UK, Tate and Lyle 2012 revenue was $4.9 billion.
DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products Plant Loudon, Tennessee USA 12 years R&D effort Production started in November, 2006 63,000 metric tons annual capacity of bio-based propanediol 35% capacity expansion online in 2 nd Q 2011. Zemea Propanediol
Zemea : Optimizing Formulations Using a Natural Solvent and Humectant Definitions : Zemea : Natural Propanediol Solvent : A substance, usually a liquid capable of dissolving another substance Humectant : A substance that promotes retention of moisture
Zemea The Natural Propanediol
Zemea : Propanediol from Natural Source Fermentation Purification Glucose Zemea
Zemea : Propanediol from Biotechnology Zemea Batches have averaged 99.98% Pure GC-FID Comparison Bio to Chemical PDO
No Skin Irritation Observed with Zemea
Zemea : Sustainable Propanediol
Zemea Propanediol: A Natural Solvent
Formulating for Efficacy using Zemea The relative effectiveness of Zemea as a solvent used to deliver active ingredients and functional materials was modeled and evaluated. The evaluation was conducted using the Formulating for Efficacy software program (http://www.jwsolutionssoftware.com). The software program is based on the relationship between formulation composition and skin delivery, and uses Hansen Solubility Parameters (Dispersion [D], Polar [P], and Hydrogen Bonding [H]) to estimate solubility. The software also calculates the relative difference in polarity for solvent-active and solvent-skin combinations, measured by the Ingredient Active Gap (IAG) and Ingredient Skin Gap (ISG), respectively.
Experimental Design A. Solvents The following polar solvents (Table 1) were chosen for comparison and are commonly used in cosmetic formulations. Table 1 : Hansen values for common polar solvents Figure 1 : 3D Hansen space of solvents relative to skin
Experimental Design B. Actives The following active ingredients (Table 2) were chosen for comparison and are commonly used in cosmetic formulations. The 3-dimensional Hansen space for each active relative to the Hansen values for human skin (green dot) is shown in Figure 2. The following actives were evaluated: Table 2 : Hansen values for selected actives relative to skin Figure 2 : 3D Hansen space of actives relative to skin 13
Maximizing the Solubility of an Active Objective: Find a primary solvent to maximize solubility Example 1. FERULIC ACID renew and rejuvenate skin texture Result : Ferulic acid has high solubility in Zemea, but not in water. Example 2. ALLANTOIN soothe, stimulate and moisturize skin Result: Allantoin has higher solubility in Zemea compared to water.
Managing the Solubility of an Active : Objective: Find a secondary solvent to extend delivery time Example 3. ASCORBIC ACID (Vitamin C) - antioxidant Result: Ascorbic acid is reasonably soluble in Zemea and highly soluble in water. Using Zemea can extend delivery time as the water evaporates from a formulation. Example 4. GLYCOLIC ACID exfoliation, anti-aging Result: Glycolic acid has high solubility in Zemea and water. Zemea has a lower vapor pressure than water and can extend delivery time as the water evaporates from a formulation.
Optimizing a Formulation for an Active Example 5. SALICYLIC ACID Objective : Optimize a natural formulation of 1% salicylic acid and a fixed 25% oil phase with 2% cetearyl alcohol and 1% caprylyl glycol, using only Zemea and isostearyl alcohol. Result: Salicylic acid is reasonably soluble in Zemea and has low solubility in water. The natural formulation can be optimized for maximum delivery using an 11.8% Zemea propanediol and 9.2% isostearyl alcohol combination.
Optimizing a Formulation for an Active Example 6. HEXYLRESORCINOL (antioxidant) Objective: Optimize a skin lightening formulation with 1% hexylresorcinol in the aqueous phase of an emulsion. Result: Hexylresorcinol is reasonably soluble in Zemea and has low solubility in water. The skin lightening formulation can be optimized for maximum solubility and delivery using 17% Zemea propanediol in a 75% aqueous phase emulsion.
Solubility Modeling Conclusions Zemea has a unique set of Hansen Solubility Parameters. Software modeling suggested that Zemea can be an effective solvent for cosmetic actives and functional materials.
Zemea Propanediol : A Natural Humectant
Improved Skin Moisturizing Performances N = 10; Typical O/W Skin care Emulsion with 5% glycol A Corneometer 825 PC was used to measure skin moisturization
Skin Moisturizing Performance The initial moisturizing effect of Zemea propanediol was compared to glycerin in an aqueous solution. Three aqueous solutions were formulated using 10% Zemea, 10% glycerin and a 5% Zemea / 5% glycerin mixture. Each test formulation was applied to the forearms of the volunteers and moisture levels were measured by conductance using a Corneometer ASA-Ml (Asahi Biomed, Yokohama, Japan). Advantages Zemea provides better skin moisturization during the initial application. Zemea shows a synergistic effect when formulated with glycerin that improves and extends skin moisturization. Formulating with a Zemea / glycerin mixture for improved moisturization requires less glycerin and may reduce tackiness. Source: Iwase Cosfa Co. 21
Zemea Propanediol : Boosting Preservative Efficacy Minimum percentage of Zemea needed to boost preservative efficacy
Consumer Efficacy Testing - Skincare N = 20 ; O/W lotion with 5% glycol ; Blind test Subjects completed a daily questionnaire where they reported their level of agreement on a scale of 1 to 7 with 10 different statements
Zemea Commercialized in over 1000 Products Globally Skin Care: Cleansers Facial Cleansers Body Wash Shower Gels Anti-Acne Hand Sanitizers Moisturizers Moisturizing Lotions and Creams Anti-aging Serum Skin Care Masks Eye Creams Scar Massage Gel Sun Care Sunscreen Lotions Sunscreen Wipes Baby Care Products Men s Skin Care Products Hair Care: Shampoo Conditioner Various Styling Products Toiletries Deodorants Oral Care Products Personal Lubricants Cosmetics: Concealer Mascara Makeup Remover Other Ingredients: Natural Esters Fragrances Natural Preservatives Botanical Extraction
Thank You for Your Interest! Thank You for Your Interest! Zemea the Natural Choice Purity and Renewable Performance www.duponttateandlyle.com Zemea is a registered trademark of DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products Company, LLC. All rights reserved.