Swiss textile testing and certification

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Swiss textile testing and certification UV Standard 801

Natural UV radiation Sunlight is important for human health. The body needs it to form vitamin D, for example, which is important for bone structure. At the same time, the ultraviolet rays contained in sunlight are potentially a source of severe stress and risk for the skin. Due to the change in the way people are spending their leisure time, dermatologists are recording a significant increase in the number of skin cancer cases worldwide. In Switzerland alone, experts anticipate well over 10,000 new cases of skin cancer each year, based on latest estimates. Dermatologists and therefore warn against excessive exposure of the sun and call for prevention by means of suitable clothing and sun-protective textiles. This is particularly important for children, as their skin is still very thin and only develops full protective mechanisms against harmful UV radiation from around the age of 15. But it is also very important for people who spend a lot of time outdoors in their line of work, such as construction and road workers or gardeners, to use textile sun protection. Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) UV protection UV or SPF protection factor UV protective clothing (acc. to UV Standard 801) 20-80 Tightly woven cotton clothing (acc. to UV Standard 801) approx. 20 Sunscreen when applied correctly (SPF) 0-30 Lightly woven cotton clothing (acc. to UV Standard 801) approx. 10 Shade under a tree approx. 5-15 Shade under a sunshade (without special UV protection) approx. 5 The UV protection factor (UPF) states how much longer someone using sun-protective textiles or wearing UV-protective clothing can stay out in the sun without suffering damage to their skin. It is comparable to the sun protection factor of sunscreens (SPF). In both cases, the basis for calculation is what is known as the intrinsic protection time of the skin, which can vary considerably depending on the individual skin type. The skin of someone of skin type I with red or blonde hair, blue eyes and a very fair complexion has an intrinsic protection time of approximately five to ten. If they are exposed to the burning sun for longer than this without protection, they risk harmful sunburn. When protected by a textile material with a UPF of 20, this individual can extend the length of time spent in the sun by a factor of 20, in other words, up to a maximum of 1,5 to 3,5 hours (20 x 5 min = 100 min to 20 x 10 min = 200 min), without risking skin damage.

Skin types Not every type of skin reacts in the same way when exposed to the sun. Dermatologists therefore make a distinction between five skin types with different intrinsic protection times. Skin type Description Sunburn Tanning Skin s intrinsic protection time Textile Protection (UPF 20) I Skin: extremely light, pale Freckles: profuse Hair: reddish Eyes: green, blue, rarely brown Always burns, painful Never tans; white after 1-2 days, skin peels 5-10 100-200 II Skin: slightly darker than type I Freckles: rare Hair: blonde to brown Eyes: blue, green, grey Generally burns, painful Rarely tans, skin peels 10-20 200-400 III Skin: light brown Freckles: none Hair: dark blonde, brown Eyes: grey, brown Occasionally burns, moderate Tans well 20-30 400-600 IV Skin: brown Freckles: none Hair: dark brown, black Eyes: brown Rarely burns Tans quickly and deeply approx. 45 approx. 900 V Skin: dark brown, black Freckles: none Hair: black Eyes: brown Rarely burns Tans quickly and deeply approx. 60-90 approx. 1'200-1'800

Textiles are intrinsically suited for use as UV protection, as they are able to offer particularly good protection against intense radiation from the sun if suitable materials and fabric structures are used. UV protection factors (UPF) far above those of the strongest sunscreens (sunblocks) can be achieved. However, it is not possible to determine how much UV radiation a textile allows to penetrate to the skin simply from looking at and feeling the textile material. Standardised measuring methods and a specialist test, as conducted by the institutions in the International Test Association for Applied UV Protection, of which TESTEX is a member, are therefore required to determine the Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF). UV-Index The intensity of the sun, as well as the individual skin type, is crucial when selecting suitable UV protection. The international UV index (UVI) provides information on the intensity of UV radiation in a specific location. The UV index is dependent on the time of day, the longitude and latitude, the time of year, ozone levels and cloud cover. Reflections from sand and snow also affect the UVI level. The daily UVI forecast is published on the Internet by, amongst others, the Swiss Federal Health Office and the Swiss Meteorological Office at www.uv-index.ch for Switzerland, Europe, the USA and Australia. UV-Index Children s skin Skin type I Skin type II Skin type III Skin type IV Skin type V 3-4 UPF 20 UPF 20 UPF 15 UPF 10 UPF 5-10 UPF 5 5-6 UPF 20-40 UPF 20-40 UPF 20-40 UPF 20 UPF 10 UPF 5-10 7-8 UPF 60-80 UPF 60-80 UPF 40-60 UPF 40 UPF 20 UPF 10 9 and above UPF 80 UPF 80 UPF 60-80 UPF 60 UPF 40 UPF 20

Measuring methods for determining the UV Protection Factor UPF In order to provide consumers with a reliable UPF, the particular requirements to which a sun-protective textile is subjected during use must be taken into consideration. In the case of clothing, the stretching of a fabric during wear, moisture from perspiration or sea water and wear during use all affect the UPF. The protection time is reduced on average by about a third as a result of these conditions, and this must also be reflected in the UPF rating indicated (see diagram below) to avoid putting the wearer at risk. TESTEX, as a member of the International Test Association for Applied UV Protection, recommends measuring the UPF according to UV Standard 801 for all types of clothing. This is based on the worst case scenario for wearing conditions. The test therefore includes washing the textile material and measuring it while damp and stretched in a specified manner (see right). When determining the UPF, a maximum radiation intensity using the solar spectrum in Melbourne, Australia, on 1 January (in other words, at the height of the Australian summer) and the most sensitive skin type are taken as the basis. Under the Australian-New Zealand standard (AS/NZS 4399:1996), however, measurements are only made on new textile materials in an unstretched and dry condition. This test is also based on the solar spectrum in Melbourne, Australia, on 1 January. Since this measuring process does not take account of the special circumstances where clothing is being worn, it is not possible to calculate a reliable sun protection factor for clothing, but only for indoor and outdoor sun-screening textiles on buildings, or for parasols and awnings. MEASURING THE UV PROTECTION FACTOR OF A POLYAMIDE/SPANDEX SWIMSUIT UNDER ACTUAL WEARING CONDITIONS 80 >80 dry textile 70 damp textile UV Protection Factor 60 50 40 30 25 29 23 27 26 28 Here the UV protection factor of textiles is also being measured when elongated In a stretching device. 20 10 0 Condition of the textile new new + stretched abraded + stretched washed + stretched The mechanical stress on textiles is simulated with the Martindale Abrasion Tester.

Since the solar spectrum in the northern hemisphere is different from that in Australia, the measuring method used in European standard EN 13758-1 is based on the solar spectrum in Albuquerque in New Mexico, USA, which is more or less similar to that of southern Europe. Otherwise the test conditions of AS/NZS 4399:1996 apply, i.e. the UPF is calculated using new, unstretched and dry textiles. This measuring method is also not entirely suitable for clothing, since the figures produced again disregard normal wearing behaviour, and so do not give reliable values for the textile s conditions of use. Test method Special features Recommended test method for: Award of test label UV Standard 801 Measurements carried out on stretched, wet textiles which display mechanical wear as a result of wear and textile care. Based on maximum UV radiation and the most sensitive skin type. The solar spectrum in Australia is simulated. Beach- and swimwear, workwear, sportswear, headgear, summer clothing, uniforms etc. Awnings, sunshades, roller blinds AS/NZS 4399:1996 Measurements made on unstretched, dry textiles when new. The solar spectrum in Australia is simulated during measurements. Only qualified suitability for clothing. Awnings, sunshades, roller blinds EN 13758-1 Measurements made on unstretched, dry textiles when new. The solar spectrum in Albuquerque (New Mexico/ USA), which corresponds to that in Southern Europe, is simulated during measurements. Only qualified suitability for clothing. Awnings, sunshades, roller blinds For further information go to www.uvstandard801.com or contact us by e-mail at: zuerich@testex.com. We would like to thank Hyphen tocre8 - reinschmidt operations gmbh for the images.

TESTEX AG Swiss Textile Testing Institute HEAD OFFICE Gotthardstr. 61 P.O. Box 2156 CH-8027 Zurich Switzerland Phone +41 44 206 42 42 Fax +41 44 206 42 30 zuerich@testex.com www.testex.com BRANCHES & REPRE- SENTATIVE OFFICES Hong Kong hongkong@testex.com Shanghai, P. R. China shanghai@testex.com Beijing, P. R. China beijing@testex.com Taipei, Taiwan taipei@testex.com Seoul, Republic of Korea seoul@testex.com Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia kl@testex.com Jakarta, Indonesia jakarta@testex.com Bandung, Indonesia bandung@testex.com Melbourne, Australia melbourne@testex.com Dublin, Ireland dublin@testex.com Vancouver, Canada vancouver@testex.com