Global Hair Care Trends and the Role of Silicones Kevin Murphy Beth Johnson Feifei Lin Robin Hickerson
T oday s hair care market thrives on the growing and changing needs of global consumers. Within an increasingly competitive and segmented marketplace, formulators are challenged to respond to diverse hair types, ethnicities, cultures and regions. They also need to accommodate emerging economies, a savvy youth market, and an expanding group of fashionforward shoppers. Silicones are recognized as multifunctional ingredients in a variety of hair care products. With their unique set of chemical and physical properties, these highly versatile materials not only condition hair, but they can be used to add shine, make combing easier, provide color protection, help guard against damage from heat styling, enhance hair strength, repair damaged hair, give a perception of moisturization, aid curl retention, control frizz, add volume or even reduce volume. In short, silicones can play major roles whether in shampoos, conditioners, colorants or styling products. Consumers Shape Hair Care Needs The global hair care market reached $67.6 billion USD in 2010, second only to the skin care segment, and is forecast to reach $84.3 billion USD by 2015, led by shampoos and conditioners. a Within a dynamic market of more than 10,000 new launches per year, b approximately 60% of these hair care products will contain at least one silicone material, and often more in the case of conditioners. Clearly, the ongoing growth and continued presence of this broad family of ingredients fulfills a range of formulating needs, influenced by trends in the hair care market. Among these are consumer trends such as: Individualism Sensory effects Health and well-being Societal trends also influence the market, and they are related primarily to changing demographics: Aging population in the developed world Rising prosperity in the developing world Consumer Trends Influence Hair Care Individualism. Because consumers want to portray their individuality as well as manage specific grooming challenges based on their hair type, its condition and desired style the concept of products tailored just for me has taken hold. Today s global hair care market encompasses a vivid spectrum of consumer wants and needs based on hair type, ethnicity, cultural practices, climate, economics, and of course, fashion trends. Combining and juggling this diversity of consumer desires and preferences has led to increasing market segmentation and a Euromonitor (October 2011) b Mintel launches between Jan 2011 and Jan 2012 (August 2012) 2
an evolving array of product line extensions. Most finished products offer a combination of benefits to cater to individual hair care needs. Silicones can offer solutions to the individual variety of wants and needs associated with the ideal hair care regimens of consumers. In the shampoo and conditioning segments, and in some styling applications, easy combing is a must. Products are increasingly designed for dry, fine, curly or kinky hair; colored or damaged tresses; and styles ranging from short to long, sleek to voluminous. Conditioning levels can range from light to intense, with options for color and heat protection, and even frizz control. In Asia, for example, with increasing disposable income and more women in the workplace, the simple, straight bob is giving way to curled looks, exotic cuts and vibrant color even in the ranges of reds and blond. To achieve their look of choice, consumers use more hair colorants and heating appliances such as curling irons and hair dryers. These approaches can stress hair, causing dryness, breakage, split ends and a dull appearance. To be effective, products need to offer conditioning from mild to intense, adapted to hair type and condition and silicones provide the answers. (Table 1). c Table 1. Solutions for Tailored Conditioning Product Application Hair Type Dow Corning 8500 Conditioning Agent Dow Corning 8411 Smooth Plus Emulsion Dow Corning 5-7113 Silicone Quat Microemulsion Conditioning Level Shampoo Dry damaged Mild Moderate Intensive Conditioner All hair types Conditioner Dry, damaged Dow Corning AP 8087 Fluid Conditioner Dry, damaged XIAMETER MEM-1664 Emulsion Shampoo Dry, damaged XIAMETER MEM-1784 Emulsion Shampoo Dry, damaged XIAMETER OFX-5330 Fluid Shampoo Thin, dull XIAMETER MEM-0949 Emulsion Shampoo Damaged, colortreated XIAMETER MEM-8194 Emulsion Leave-in conditioner Frizzy Protecting hair from excessive heat is clearly a need among many consumers. Hair dryers and other heated appliances first soften the keratin of the hair. If the appliances are too hot, they can actually cause water in the hair to boil, forming minute bubbles of steam inside the softened hair shaft, weakening the fiber and potentially leading to total fracture. c The examples provided in Tables 1 through 8 are not comprehensive. They represent only a sampling of the potential benefits that may be achieved by matching the right silicone with an application and a given hair type. 3
Silicones are thermally stable and spread easily on the hair, forming a protective film to help prevent water loss from the hair shaft caused by the heat of dryers or heated styling tools. Table 2 shows silicone solutions for leave-in conditioners and styling products. Table 2. Heat Protection Solutions Product Leave-In Additional Benefits Dow Corning 8500 Conditioning Agent Hair repair Dow Corning HMW 2220 Non- Ionic Emulsion Hair repair Dow Corning 2-2078 Fluid Long-lasting shine XIAMETER PMX-1501 Fluid Shine XIAMETER PMX-9027 Fluid Shine = Excellent fit; = good fit Colored hair has become a common statement of individuality, youth and fashion. Fully 50% of women in the Western countries use hair colorants d and the market for hair coloring is expected to see continued growth. Shining, lustrous hair color needs protection from repeated washing and UV exposure. Silicones can offer the answer, by helping color last longer, retain its vibrant look, protect and enhance color brilliance and revive color and shine. Table 3 features silicones that are useful for color protection from rinse-off and leave-in conditioners as well as styling products. Table 3. Color Protection Solutions Product Rinse-Off Leave-In Additional Benefits Dow Corning CE 8411 Smooth Plus Emulsion Moisturization Dow Corning 5-7113 Silicone Quat Microemulsion Volume enhancement Dow Corning CE 7080 Smart Style Flexible styling XIAMETER MEM-8177 Emulsion = Excellent fit; = good fit Medium conditioning, clear systems Products that enhance body and volume help hair keep its desired look and style. Thanks to the versatility of silicones and the creativity of formulators, consumers can select more volume or less, depending on their hair type. This ability to address such dissimilar ends of the styling spectrum is typical of the adaptability of silicones. d COSSMA (February 2009) 4
Volume can be a key concern for aging consumers who may have thinning hair. At the same time, those who seek enhanced body and volume still expect a light feel that won t weigh hair down. Where volume is concerned, the ideal conditioning and styling products add body, fullness, and a perception of hair thickness yet without contributing to buildup or drag while combing. Once again, the adaptable nature of silicones can offer the solutions consumers need (Table 4). Table 4. Solutions for Body and Volume Enhancement Product Rinse-Off Additional Benefits Dow Corning 5-7113 Silicone Quat Microemulsion Intensive conditioning Dow Corning CE-8170 AF Microemulsion Medium conditioning XIAMETER MEM-0949 Emulsion = good fit Intensive conditioning; when incorporated into cream colorants, adds shine and improved combing performance For those with curly or kinky hair, reduced volume or volume control may be a necessity (Table 5). Table 5. A Solution for Volume Control Product XIAMETER OFX-5324 Fluid = Excellent fit Leave-In Consumers who need yet another form of conditioning have helped the market for frizz control products grow. These conditioners help maintain the style and condition of hair, whether for smooth, straight hair, or for tight or loose defining curls. Pomades, gels, and similar products created for frizz control are designed to leave a smooth finish with silky shine, help repair split ends, and seal hair cuticles. Silicones also offer formulating solutions for these applications (Table 6). Table 6. Frizz Control Solutions Product Leave-In Styling Additional Benefits Dow Corning CE 7080 Smart Style Flexible styling Dow Corning 2-2078 Fluid Heat protection XIAMETER PMX-1502 Fluid Medium conditioning = Excellent fit; = good fit 5
Sensory effects. Along with their multifaceted performance characteristics, silicones play to the sensory experience associated with using a hair care product. In other words, while consumers expect products tailored for individualism, they also are drawn to those that impart unique sensory effects related to emotional benefits and experience. They value the sensation from a product in terms of pleasure, intensity, delight or a pampered feel. Products that perform as described are essential, yet novel sensory effects or distinctive textures clearly help make the sale. Consumers seek mousses that feel like rich whipped cream, or thick conditioners that transform to silky liquid that skims lightly over hair. They want shampoos with the long-lasting fragrance of a tropical garden or shine serums that add gloss but leave hair weightless and flowing. And they look for pomades that liquefy outside their container and leave a healthy-looking film to help control kinky hair. Among sensory preferences, moisturizing is one of the most popular attributes of today s premium hair conditioners and shampoos. Consumers delight in hair that glides through their fingers like a river of silk: supple, smooth, shining and lightly flowing. They want shapely, manageable hair with body, bounce and volume. Moisturization is clearly associated with the desire to have healthy-looking hair, with the option for damage repair. Claims related to the benefits of moisturization are increasingly included on packaging, in part inspired by skin care benefits. Typical consumers with Caucasian hair perceive it to be moisturized when it shines, feels smooth, and conveys a nourished appearance. Table 7 suggests silicones that can provide the perception of moisturization in hair. Among the materials in the table, Dow Corning CE-8411 Smooth Plus Emulsion was designed to add a moisturizing feel and conditioning benefits to shampoos and conditioners. It is useful for formulating products for all hair types. It adds increased slipperiness, smoothness and flexibility without decreasing hair volume or weighing hair down. Table 7. Solutions for Moisturization Product Shampoo Rinse-Off Leave-In Additional Benefits Dow Corning CE 8411 Smooth Plus Emulsion Shine, light weight Dow Corning CE 1689 Smoothing Emulsion Specific for Asian hair XIAMETER OFX-5324 Shine = Excellent fit; = good fit Health and well-being. Aspects of the trends toward individualism and enhanced sensory effects also contribute to the overall concept of health and well-being, relating to the importance of appearance to both men and women. Consumers are increasingly focused on hair products that help convey an attitude of vitality and healthful living. 6
From a hair care perspective, consumer-perceivable benefits such as shine, frizz control, color protection and other visual cues play a role that can be enhanced by the effects of silicones. Because hair is one of the first impressions the world sees, products that express well-being stand out among buyers. Lustrous hair communicates health, while dull and dry hair can signal poor habits and even malnutrition. At the same time, well-being can have a larger scope beyond appearance. Savvy consumers want hair care products that are safe, sustainable and eco-friendly. Perhaps one of the most recognizable and desirable sensory effects of hair care products is shine. Over time, hair loses its style and shine from pollutants, humidity, air conditioning, grooming and damage due to bleaching, coloring and heat appliances. Shining hair is often associated with healthy hair, and that perception can be achieved with silicones at various steps in the hair care process, from shampooing to styling (Table 8). Table 8. Solutions for Enhanced Shine Product Shampoo Rinse-Off Leave-In Additional Benefits Dow Corning 2-2078 Fluid Long lasting, hair alignment Dow Corning 556 Fluid Improved feel XIAMETER OFX-5330 Fluid Light conditioning XIAMETER PMX-1556 Fluid Medium conditioning XIAMETER PMX-1503 Fluid Medium conditioning The Role of Megatrends While some components of market evolution focus on the needs and desires of individuals, some are driven by changing aspects of society as a whole. An aging population. As the population ages in the developed world, a new set of criteria for hair care needs may join those similarly emerging for skin care. Consumer preference for individuality may also serve as the foundation for products whose benefits accentuate changing needs. Hair thinning, loss of volume, and dryness due to less sebum production are typically associated with the aging process. Yet, the overall objective for consumers may remain the same: while more people may be using colorants to hide gray hair, they still seek shine, excellent sensory effects, added volume, and the other characteristics silicones can help associate with healthy-looking hair and well-being. Across the globe, culture is increasingly visual, and looking good at any age is crucial especially as aging populations in developed countries continue to work longer. These consumers expect performance from products that fit their needs. Table 9 summarizes the multiple anti-aging benefits of silicone in hair care products. 7
Table 9. Solutions for Anti-Aging Issue Consumer Needs Silicone Solution Fine, thinning hair Dry hair, less sebum production Straw-like, frizzy, wiry look Graying hair, more porous Enhanced hair body/volume Avoid heavy/over-conditioning Intensive conditioning Moisturization Heat styling and soft flexible styling Moisturizing, humidity resistance Conditioning color treatment Protection and color maintenance See body/volume solutions See tailored conditioning solutions See frizz control solutions See color protection solutions Loss of hair shine, dullness Enhanced shine and color See shine solutions Rising prosperity. While per capita spending on hair care products is strong and steady in mature countries, developing economies will be the main engine for growth in the hair care segment as those countries experience growth in their middle class due to rising prosperity. Consumers expect affordable products with perceivable conditioning benefits, superior sensory effects, tailoring for specific hair types and respect for local hair care habits, all of which relate to the versatility of silicones. Economic growth not only signals broader demand for mass market products for example, as some consumers move from bar soap to shampoo but also suggests expanded purchasing that comes with the opportunity for frequent use of grooming products and greater interest in styling. Continued development of a middle class can also lead to a larger segment of consumers who turn to sophisticated, luxurious products at higher price points. Silicone Safety In addition to following fashion trends and having hair that is attractive and healthy looking, consumers are interested in product safety. Silicones have been widely used in a range of hair care products since the 1970s, and they are stable and inert under conditions for the intended applications. Silicones are among the most extensively studied materials used in consumer and industrial applications today. Dow Corning assesses every product that is produced for the personal care industry from a human health and environmental perspective. In addition, more than 1,000 studies have been conducted by silicone manufacturers to assess the safety of silicones relative to workers, consumers, the environment and manufacturing processes. The results of this continued research and testing demonstrate the safety of silicones in their diverse and important applications. Silicones Provide Answers Today s hair care market is large and mature, yet it remains dynamic because of evolving trends and changing demographics. More innovative products come to market each year, and differentiating for varying hair care needs and regional cultures remains the key to success. Silicones continue to be essential ingredients in the hair care market. Their versatility meets a wide range of consumer needs, both in terms of sensory effects and performance. 8
Dow Corning brand for specialty silicones. For silicone materials that meet strategic needs for product development and innovation, The Dow Corning brand offers a wide range of specialty silicone products. Dow Corning constantly works to help customers create the most advanced, efficacious and innovative formulations possible, with the multifunctional benefits today's diverse and sophisticated consumers want. These materials are supported by teams of technical and customer service professionals who rely on a knowledge base developed over decades of experience in the personal care industry. To learn more about new and unique silicone materials, how silicones are responding to personal care trends, and how these versatile materials can meet global consumer needs, visit dowcorning.com today. XIAMETER brand for standard silicone products. In the midst of market growth and escalating demands, hair care formulators can benefit from efficient sourcing of standard silicones used in proven formulations and processes, allowing them to get products to market and to consumers as quickly as possible. Dow Corning s web-enabled XIAMETER brand offers a wide range of silicone products online, where formulators can take advantage of market-based pricing. And, because XIAMETER brand products are made by Dow Corning, formulators benefit from the quality that comes from years of silicone expertise. The XIAMETER brand from Dow Corning offers the world s largest online portal of standard silicones. Visit xiameter.com to register today. 9
LIMITED WARRANTY INFORMATION PLEASE READ CAREFULLY The information contained herein is offered in good faith and is believed to be accurate. However, because conditions and methods of use of our products are beyond our control, this information should not be used in substitution for customer s tests to ensure that our products are safe, effective, and fully satisfactory for the intended end use. Suggestions of use shall not be taken as inducements to infringe any patent. Dow Corning s sole warranty is that our products will meet the sales specifications in effect at the time of shipment. Your exclusive remedy for breach of such warranty is limited to refund of purchase price or replacement of any product shown to be other than as warranted. DOW CORNING SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIMS ANY OTHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTY OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE OR MERCHANTABILITY. DOW CORNING DISCLAIMS LIABILITY FOR ANY INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES. Dow Corning is a registered trademark of Dow Corning Corporation. We help you invent the future is a trademark of Dow Corning Corporation. 2012 Dow Corning Corporation. All rights reserved. Printed in USA Sci1012 Form No. 27-1411-01