Chemical Texture Services 1. 1. cuticle outer layer, chemicals raise cuticle liquid enters cortex Strong cuticle resistant hair, strong Alkaline Damaged hair milder chemicals, less Alkaline. 2. cortex gives strength/elasticity, chemical penetration 3. medulla innermost layer, function unknown PH (potential hydrogen) hair 4.5 5.5 chemicals mild to strong alkaline reforms hair Amino acids carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen Peptide bonds (End bonds), chemical bonds join amino acids end to end chains like beads (polypeptide chains) Keratin long, coiled, polypeptide chains Side bonds link polypeptide chains Side bond Types: 1. Disulfide bonds sulfur/protein side bonds, broken by chemical services 2. Salt bonds weak, easily broken by PH changes 3. Hydrogen bonds weak physical bonds easily broken by water, wet sets, thermal styling tools,1/3 of hair strength 2 procedures change structure: 1. Physical action wrapping hair on perm rod 2. Chemical action processing & neutralizer Consultation: include on client card 1. clients name, address, phone no. 2. analysis of texture, elasticity, porosity, condition 3. medical conditions, medications 4. previous chemical services, results 5. formula name, amount, timing Oct 25 5:02 PM 1
SPIRAL PERM Dec 5 8:31 AM 2
Hair & Scalp Anaylsis 2. Metallic salt hair color not compatible w/chemical services Test: 1oz. 20 vol. peroxide, 20 drops of 28% ammonia Immerse 20 strands, 30 min. Metal not present hair lightens, proceed w/service Metals present lightens rapidly,gets hot & smells Scalp analysis check for abrasions,disorders Texture: diameter Coarse longer processing time, resistant Medium average response Fine more fragile,processes faster Density amount of hair per square inch more hair= more rods Porosity ability to absorb moisture Resistant hair absorbs less, porous hair absorbs more Overly porous hair less alkaline than resistant hair Elasticity ability of hair to stretch & revert to original shape Indicates strength of side bonds Normal wet hair stretches & reverts 50% w/out breakage Low elasticity damaged hair snaps when stretched Growth direction affects finished style, consider wrapping pattern & base direction Rod size = curl size Permanent Waving Tools Base sections sectioning,subsections creates a plan Base placement position of rod in relation to base determined by angle hair is wrapped on base 45 degrees, on base half off base 90 degrees, 1/2 on base, minimal stress off base 45 degrees, below base, underdirected Base direction angle rods are positioned on head horizontal, vertical, diagonal Oct 25 5:02 PM 3
LOOSE BODY WAVE Dec 5 8:33 AM 4
2 Basic wrap methods spiral, croquignole 3. Concave rods small center, larger ends, tighter curl on ends Straight rods uniform, even wave ends to scalp Soft bender rods versatile, bendable Spiral Wrapping wound scalp to ends (long hair) Loop, circle rod 12 in. long, uniform diameter, long hair Croquinole Wrap wound ends to scalp Piggyback wrap extra long hair, using two rods End wraps control hair, reduce fish hooks extend beyond ends, store until use Double flat wrap two end papers, one under, one over hair Single flat wrap single paper over top of hair subsection Bookend wrap one paper folded over hair w/out squeezing strands together Reduction Reaction chemical reaction, breaks disulfide bonds adds hydrogen or removes oxygen Thioglycolic acid common colorless reducing agent Protective cream up to hairline, protects skin Alkaline or Cold Waves developed 1941, chemicals permanently wave hair w/out heat, PH 9 9.6 Ammonium thioglycolate(atg) reducing agent, alkaline softens & swells hair Oct 25 5:02 PM 5
straight medium rods concave large rods small concave rods Dec 5 8:06 AM 6
PERM WITH EXTRA SMALL RODS Dec 5 8:33 AM 7
Types of Waves 4. Alkaline or Cold Waves 1. strong, firm curl 2. reducing agent Ammonium Thioglycolate 3. PH of alkaline perms 9.0 9.6 4. wrapped w/water or perm lotion 5. faster processing, room temperature 6. for resistant hair Acid Waves True acid waves: PH 4.5 7.0, heat required, process slowly 1. Low PH reducing agent Glyceryl Monothioglycolate 2. basic components: activator, neutralizer 3. PH acid balanced perms 7.8 8.2 (not really acid), 4. process room temperature 5. soft, natural curl 6. longer processing 7. wrapped w/water 8. for fragile, color treated hair Exothermic chemicals produce heat by mixing products Endothermic requires outside heat source (hooded dryer) Ammonia free little odor, alternative ingredients Thio free low PH waves contain sulfites, weak curl eg. body waves/alternative waves Processing Solution penetrates, first 5 10min. Processing determined by strength of solution Reduction Reaction chemical reaction breaks disulfide bonds Rinsing minimum of 5 min. If smells like perm continue rinsing Neutralization stops action of perm Stage 1:Oxidation Stage 2: Neutralizer (hydrogen peroxide) chemically rebuilds disulfide bonds, removes extra hydrogen, hair hardens Oct 25 5:02 PM 8
Dec 5 8:18 AM 9
Dec 5 8:19 AM 10
PERM WITH MEDIUM RODS Dec 5 8:34 AM 11
Permanent Wave Wrap Techniques 5. Basic wrap straight wrap, rods move same direction Curvature wrap pie shaped base sections on curved areas Bricklay perm rods placed in bricklay fashion, blends parts Weave technique zigzag partings blend tools move opposite directions Double rod (piggyback wrap) 2 tools, one base section hair, wrap one tool on top of other increases curl on long hair Spiral curl wrap spirally along tool spiral curls on long hair Partial perms larger tools transition from curled hair to straight unpermed hair Underprocessed not processed long enough, weak waves Overprocessed straight, frizzy when dry, too weak to hold Preliminary test curls correct processing time, end results CHEMICAL HAIR RELAXERS NEXT Oct 25 5:02 PM 12
Chemical Hair Relaxers 1. Relaxers rearrange curly hair into straight, smooth form Extremely curly grows in twisted spirals, coils Thinnest, & weakest sections located at twists 2 Common Types of Relaxers Thio (ATG) Sodium Hydroxide Hydrogen Relaxers not compatable w/thio relaxers different chemistry THIO Relaxer pre shampoo active ingredient: ammonium thioglycolate softens & swells hair Thio (AGT) Relaxer: same reducing agent same as perms PH above 10 breaks disulfide bonds straightens naturally curly hair neutralizer, restores PH Hydroxide Relaxer: 1 component, no mixing no pre shampoo active ingredient: hydroxide ion swells hair twice it's size, breaks disulfide bonds same chemistry as depilatories, dissolves hair PH over 13 straightens extremely curly hair acid balanced, normalizing shampoo/lotion restores PH shampoo 3x's, deactivates residues of relaxer Oct 25 5:07 PM 13
Winter wonderland 14
Relaxers 2. Hydroxide relaxers need 3 components 1. Relaxer 2. Neutralizer/normalizing shampoo or lotions, restore acidic PH 3. Conditioner restores natural oils Selecting Relaxers Sodium Hydroxide lye relaxers Lithium Hydroxide no lye Guanidine Hydroxide no lye Αmmonium Thioglycolate Thio relaxer, no lye Ammonium sulfite/bisulfite low PH, no lye Metal Hydroxide Relaxers: sodium hydroxide potassium hydroxide lithium hydroxide Οne component: no mixing Lanthionization: Hydroxide relaxer remove one atom of sulfur from a disulfide bond Disulfide bonds broken by hydroxide relaxers can never be reformed disulfide bonds are side bonds formed when sulfur atoms in 2 adjacent protein chains are joined together Guanidine Relaxer Sold as no lye relaxer two components mixed prior to use for sensitive scalps Less irritating but more drying to hair Low PH Relaxer Sulfites & Bisufites marketed as alternative relaxers Compatable w/thio relaxer only Oct 25 5:07 PM 15
Body heat 3. accelerates action of chemicals apply relaxer near scalp last BASE Cream protects scalp/skin when relaxing hair melts at body temperature BASE & NO BASE Sodium Hydroxide relaxers Base relaxer requires base on the scalp, ears, hairline No base relaxer base is built into product apply base to ears and hairline only Chemical Relaxing requires Two Actions: chemical physical (smoothing hair with the tail of the tint brush) What ACTIVATES THE RELAXER? Pressure from smoothing hair with the tail of the tint brush RELAXER STRENGTHS: concentration of hydroxide MILD FINE, COLOR TREATED OR DAMAGED HAIR REGULAR NORMAL HAIR W/ MEDIUM CURL SUPER EXTREMELY CURLY, COARSE HAIR Wide toothed comb prevents stretching when removing tangles Strand test predetermines results of chemical relaxers predetermines timing & formula Conditioning treatments before RELAXING hair damaged by hot comb straightening Tinted or lightened hair Oct 25 5:07 PM 16
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RELAXERS 4. HAIR ANALYSIS: POROSITY determines processing time of a relaxer ELASTICITY determines ability of hair to stretch & contract TEXTURE determines strength & type of relaxer needed Breakage overlapping chemicals on a retouch overprocessing or rough combing after a relaxer no hot irons or excessive heat on chemically relaxed hair HYDROXIDE RELAXER APPLICATION APPLY TO TOP OF HAIR STRAND MOST RESISTANT AREA FIRST, HAIRLINE LAST VIRGIN ½ INCH OFF SCALP & ENDS THEN COMPLETE SHAMPOO 3 times AFTER PROCESSING Retouches: to avoid overprocessing wait last few minutes to apply relaxer closest to scalp Curl Reformation loosens overly curly hair into larger curls, waves Soft curl perms or Jherri Curls combination of a thio relaxer & a thio permanent wave wrapped on larger rods than client's curl Test curls unwound 1 1/2 turns. Oct 25 5:15 PM 19
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Dec 11 9:50 AM 21
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