Services, products and pricing (Part 1) Hair and growth characteristics Trainer requirements to teach this session For this session you will need the following: Activity.2.1 Activity.2.1 (answer guide) Handout.2.3a (2 pages) Slide.2.3a Handout.2.3b (4 pages) Slide.2.3b Handout.2.4 (2 pages) Slide.2.4 Handout.2.5 (2 pages) Handout.2.6 (3 pages) Research.2a Research.2b Learner Check for Session 2 Trainer notes The session will cover: 2.1 The services where clients would need special advice prior to their visit, the type of advice to give and the reasons why special advice is necessary 2.2 Current fashion trends and looks 2.3 The basic structure of the hair and skin 2.4 The growth cycle of hair 2.5 The characteristics of different hair types and textures 2.6 The general factors that contribute to healthy hair Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 25 - Unit - Session 2.
Services, products and pricing (Part 1) Hair and growth characteristics 2.1 The services where clients would need special advice prior to their visit, the type of advice to give and the reasons why special advice is necessary Tell learners any client may require special advice for any service or treatment at any time. Explain that even what may seem to be a straightforward service to them may create anxiety for the client. For example: the client may want to have their long hair cut much shorter a client may want to have a colour for the first time ever the client may be considering a perm, but is not sure how what the treatment entails However, say that there are some treatments or services where the client may need to be forewarned about certain aspects of it before they attend for their appointment. Ref: Activity.2.1 Activity.2.1 (answer guide) Ask learners to complete the activity by identifying the special advice that the client may need to be told prior to their appointment and then state why they would need to know this information. Use the answer guide to confirm their results. The learners may have additional/other relevant answers. Summarise by saying that under the following circumstances, the client will need to have special advice prior to their appointment: prior to a quasi or permanent colour for a skin test before a special occasion for a consultation if the client had any physical disabilities to ensure the client will be comfortable Page 26 - Unit - Session 2. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
if the client was unsure about the service or treatment to relieve anxiety if any precautionary tests were required to be carried out to ensure the safe outcome of the treatment or service prior to a treatment or service that will take a considerable length of time, i.e. hair extensions. Some colouring and perming services to relieve client anxiety, answer questions and save time on the appointment day 2.2 Current fashion trends and looks Ref: Research.2a Ask leaner to make a collection of current trends and looks and make up a stylebook that can be given to clients in the salon. The pictures can be those from trade press or magazines, or they could include some of the learner s own work that has been photographed. The style book can include a general collection, or it can be themed. For example, a style book for: children men ladies young people elderly clients brides colouring techniques perming styles long hair/short hair Remind learners of the importance of keeping up-todate with current trends and looks. Reiterate the importance of Continuing Professional Development (CPD). Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 27 - Unit - Session 2.
Ask learners how they can undertake CPD. Answers should include: developing new hairdressing or barbering skills attending demonstrations attending manufacturers courses taking additional units of the NVQ/SVQ taking additional hairdressing or barbering qualifications participating in staff development programmes 2.3 The basic structure of the hair and skin Learners may have covered this area of work when completing NVQ/SVQ Level 2, in which case it may only be necessary to recap their previous knowledge. Structure of the hair Tell the learners that the hair is made up of three layers: the cuticle the outside protective layer the cortex the middle layer, which is the main part of the hair the medulla the central, inner part of the hair Ref: Handout.2.3a Slide.2.3a Show the slide and describe the hair structure. Use the handout as a reference and ask learners to name the parts of the hair structure. First explain the structure of the cuticle. Page 28 - Unit - Session 2. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Say the cuticle: is made up of 7 11 overlapping layers of translucent scales of keratin forms a protective layer to the hair regulates the entry of chemicals to the inner layers of the hair Say that the cuticle will vary from one person to another. For example fine hair will have less cuticle layers that coarse hair the cuticle will lay flat if the hair is in good condition and be raised or missing if the hair is porous or damaged by harsh chemicals Tell learners that the cuticle develops as a single row of cells from the germinal matrix and goes on to form the hair cuticle. Say that the cells begin roughly in the form of cubes, but by the time they reach the upper bulb of the germinal matrix they are in a column shape. The cells become longer, thinner, the nuclei disappear and the cells begin to overlap. Then explain the structure of the cortex Say the cortex: is the middle and largest layer of the hair is made up of long, interlocking, twisting cells Explain that, as mentioned earlier, the cortex is made of the protein keratin and it is the formation of the keratin within the cortex that makes the hair able to stretch and curl. Keratin is made up from amino acids. Amino acids are found in long coiled chains called polypeptide chains. Go on to say that each polypeptide chain winds itself around other chains close to it protofibrils which, in turn, wind with others to form larger structures microfibrils and then these twist with still others to create even bigger, stronger structures - macrofibrils. Say that each of these largest twists is what goes to make up a fibre of the cortex and there are hundreds of thousands of fibres in the cortex of each hair. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 29 - Unit - Session 2.
Tell learners that these bundles of cortex fibres are bonded together in many different ways and that some of the bonds are stronger than others. Remind them that the hydrogen bonds are very weak and can easily be broken by water, humidity or heat, while other bonds, the disulphide bonds, can only be broken by the application of chemicals as in perming. Tell learners that within the cortex is where the hair s colour can be found both the natural colour melanin and any artificial permanent colour that has entered into the cortex by a process of oxidation. Finally, go on to explain the structure of the medulla. Tell learners that the medulla is essentially an air space, or is made up of soft spongy cells. It is not always present in hair and, where it is missing, is replaced by the cortex. The medulla has no part to play in hairdressing chemical treatments and processes. Tell the learners the elements of the hair are: carbon 50% oxygen 21% nitrogen 18% hydrogen 7% sulphur 4% Explain to the learners that there are different types of hair on the body.: Vellus hair Terminal hair Lanugo hair which grows on the body which grows on the scalp and is: eye lashes, eyebrows, beards and moustaches which is only found on human foetuses Structure of the skin Ref: Handout.2.3b Slide.2.3b Page 30 - Unit - Session 2. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Show the slide and ask learners to label the diagram while explaining the structure of the skin and its appendages. Say that the skin is made up of two main layers: the epidermis the dermis First deal with the epidermis and tell learners that it is made up of five distinct sub layers. the horny layer, which is the hard, top layer of skin that is constantly being worn away and replaced by underlying tissue the clear layer where there is no melanin and is transparent and allows only the colour from underneath to be seen. The cells contain keratin, which is the main protein of hair the granular layer which lies between the softer living cells below and the harder dead cells above the mixed layer this consists of mixed cells. Right below the granular layer lie the prickle cells which are softer, alive and active. Below are the malpighian cells, which contain melanin, which is the skin pigment the germinating layer which is the lowest layer of the epidermis. This is the area of most active growth. The cells are soft and full and the germinating layer and basement membrane connect with the underlying dermis Move on to explain the structure of the dermis. Say that the dermis is the thickest layer of the skin and is the place where the hair follicle is formed. The dermis is made up of elastic and connective tissue, which is well supplied with blood and lymph vessels and the skin receives its nutrient supply from here. The dermis contains the nerve supply, which allows the sensations of heat, cold, touch and pain to be felt. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 31 - Unit - Session 2.
The lower part of the dermis is called the reticular layer and lies below the papillary layer. It contains a dense network of collagen fibres mostly in layers. In between the collagen fibres are loosely woven networks of elastic fibres which enable the skin to stretch. Tell learners that beneath the dermis subcutaneous tissue can be found. This layer is also known as the subcutis. It is made up of loose cell tissue and contains stores of fat. Subcutaneous tissue fills the space between the dermis and muscle tissue. The hair follicle grows from a tube like space in the skin. At the base of the follicle the areas are well supplied with nerves and blood vessels. These nourish the cell activity and are called hair papillae. Surrounding the hair papillae is the germinal matrix which consists of active forming hair cells. As the new cells grow the lowest part of the hair is shaped into the hair bulb. The cells continue to shape as they push along the follicle until they appear at the skin surface as hair fibres. The cells harden and die and the hair is formed of dead tissue but keeps its elasticity due its structure and keratin. The arrector pili muscle extends from the outer root about one third up the follicle to the underside of the epidermis. When it is cold or a person is frightened, the arrector pili muscle contracts, forcing the hair follicle to stand erect and creating a goose pimple on the surface of the skin. Hair on the eyebrows and eyelashes do not have erector pili muscles. The sebaceous gland is a gland which produces an oily substance known as sebum. Sebum consists mainly of fats, waxes and fatty acids. The glands are found in all areas of the skin except the soles of the feet, palms of the hand in between the fingers and toes. The seborrhoeic areas (areas that are largest for sebum excretion) are largest on the scalp, forehead, nose, cheeks and in between the shoulder blades and chest. Page 32 - Unit - Session 2. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
The secretion of sebum is continuous and depends on the size of the gland and is regulated by hormones. Male sex hormones increase the size of the glands and the amount of secretion, female sex hormones, reduce the size, thus decreasing the secretion. At puberty increased secretion of the hormone testosterone causes enlargement of the glands, increasing sebum production which can lead to acne. Sweat glands produce sweat to help cool the body. There are two types of sweat glands in the skin. The eccrine glands, which produces a watery secretion and are present in all areas of the skin and the apocrine glands which produce a more oily type of secretion and are found in areas such as the armpits, the pubic area and around the nipples. The functions of the skin Explain the functions of the skin: Protection acts as a protective covering for the body against harmful light rays and injuries and to prevent invasion of bacteria Absorption absorbs certain light rays, some oily substances and converts absorbed sunlight to Vitamin D Sensation from the nerve endings Temperature by the excretion and evaporation of control sweat Elimination by the excretion of some waste of waste materials in sweat Secretion by the secretion of sebum to coat and lubricate the skin Tell learners that to help them to remember the functions of the skin, they should use the acronym PASTES. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 33 - Unit - Session 2.
2.4 The growth cycle of hair Learners may have covered this area of work when completing NVQ/SVQ Level 2, in which case it may only be necessary to recap their previous knowledge. Ref: Handout.2.4 Slide.2.4 Show the slide to illustrate the hair growth cycle as you explain it to the learners. Say that hair continually grows, falls out* allowing the follicle to rest and regenerate itself before starting to grow a new hair. *Tell learners that approximately 100 hairs are lost every day. Say that there are three stages of hair growth: Anagen Catagen Telogen Tell learners that a good way to remember these stages or cycles is to use the acronym: ACT Anagen Catagen Telogen the active growing stage the ceasing or resting phase (change occurs for 2 weeks) the terminating or dying phase (3-4 months) Explain in more detail: Anagen active growth of scalp hairs lasts between 1 1 /2 and 7 years average growth for the hair is 1.25cms or 1 /2 inch per month hair undergoing a 2 year cycle will grow 30cms or 12 inches* hair undergoing a 7 year cycle will grow 1 metre or just over three feet* Page 34 - Unit - Session 2. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
*Tell learners that the active growing stage of the hair is predetermined. Therefore, when clients complain that their hair never grows beyond shoulder length, this is because they have a short anagen stage of hair growth. 80% - 90% of scalp follicles are in the anagen stage at one time. Catagen a short period of change before the hair enters the resting stage lasts for two weeks the hair stops growing as cell division ceases the follicle shortens by about one third of its length At any one time 1% of scalp follicles are in the catagen stage. Telogen the resting stage of the follicle stage lasts three to four months the follicle remains in a shortened state the follicle is still in contact with the dermal papilla through the root germ. When the resting stage is complete, growth of the new follicle begins from the root germ Approximately 13% of follicles are in telogen at any time. Say that the length of the period of active growth (anagen), the period of change (catagen) and the resting stage (telogen) are determined genetically but can be affected by hormonal changes or drugs. 2.5 The characteristics of different hair types and textures Ask learners to name the three generic hair types. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 35 - Unit - Session 2.
Answer should be: Caucasian hair Asian hair African Caribbean hair Expand on the characteristics of the three types. Ref: Handout.2.5 Caucasian Tell learners that there is so much history that effects the way Caucasian hair is. For example: the Vikings bought Nordic blonde hair the Celts were often red haired the Spanish and Romans were dark Therefore Caucasian hair is a real mixture of hair colours and textures. In addition and in the more recent history, we have an even wider variety with the mixes of African Caribbean and Asian hair. Say that the hair can be fine, medium or coarse and it can be curly, straight or wavy. Under a microscope the shape is oval. Asian hair Say that this is often straight and black or brown in colour. Occasionally it may be wavy but tends to be coarser and straighter. A cross section can be placed under a microscope and will be found to be round African Caribbean hair Explain that this type varies in texture and porosity. The colour can vary from black through to various shades of brown and even warm browns. The degree of curl can vary from tight frizzy, woolly curls to a soft open curl. Page 36 - Unit - Session 2. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
The hair is easily damaged and requires careful treatment. Under a microscope it will be flat and oval in shape. Hair colour Explain that hair colour is determined by a range of pigments called melanin produced by specialised cells. The pigments combine in varying quantities and deposited in different parts of the hair shaft, give colours ranging from shades of blonde, red, brown and black. Hair colour may change by sunlight (bleached) or by severe physical illness (reduced pigment production). Melanin This is produced as minute granules by specialised cells called melanocytes, at the base of the hair follicle. These pigment granules are then transferred to the cells of the cortex and medulla in the hair shaft. Different sizes and densities of melanin granules produce different hair colours. Blondes have pale pigment known as pheomelanin, while dark hair has a dark pigment known as eumelanin. The two types of pigment are: Eumelanin black or brown colours Pheomelanin red and yellow colours Tell learners that in white hair there is an absence of either eumelanin or pheomelanin. Hair texture and density Explain that hair texture and density varies according to a person s cultural heritage, their genetics and health. Explain that hair texture can be: fine medium coarse Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 37 - Unit - Session 2.
2.6 The general factors that contribute to healthy hair Ref: Handout.2.6 Explain that the factors that contribute to healthy hair are: hereditary factors age diet including vitamins - A C &B protein minerals iron, calcium, iodine illness hormones Use Handout.2.6 to expand on these points. Summary Say that healthy hair is affected by: Health what you eat. Explain that health, diet, hereditary factors and age play a part in the hair s condition Chemicals what you put on your hair (colours, perms etc.). Discuss the chemical effects of perming, bleaching and processing the hair Environment where you live. Effects of the weather, such as wind, sea, sun and hot or cold climates can change the condition of hair Tell the learners that women s hair loss tends to be genetically inherited although a temporary shedding of hair can be due to changes in hormone levels. For example: after pregnancy result of alopecia areata immune disorder stress fever starvation drugs too much Vitamin A Page 38 - Unit - Session 2. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Ref: Research.2b Ask learners to investigate which foods contain the vitamins and minerals that are vital for healthy hair. Ask them to show their findings on a table that has been produced using IT. Learners should be encouraged to source their own information. Now use the Learner Check for Session 2 to check the understanding of the learners. Research.2a and Research.2b to encourage independent learning. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 39 - Unit - Session 2.
Page 40 - Unit - Session 2. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Services, products and pricing (Part 1) Hair and growth characteristics Learner Check 1. State at least four occasions when it would be necessary to give a client special advice prior to the appointment. 2. State at least three methods to undertake Continuing Professional Development. 3. Give a brief description of the cuticle. 1. Any four from the following: prior to a quasi or permanent colour before a special occasion if the client had any physical disabilities if the client was unsure about the service or treatment if any precautionary tests were required to be carried out prior to a treatment or service that will take a considerable length of time, i.e. hair extensions, some colouring and perming services 2. Any three from the following; developing new hairdressing or barbering skills attending demonstrations attending manufacturers courses taking additional units of the NVQ/SVQ taking additional hairdressing or barbering qualifications participating in staff development programmes 3. To include the following translucent outer layer of the hair overlapping keratin scales determines the condition of the hair allows the passage of chemicals to the cortex protects the cortex Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 41 - Unit - Session 2.
Services, products and pricing (Part 1) Hair and growth characteristics Learner Check 4. Give a brief description of the cortex. 5. Which layer of skin contains the arrector pili muscle? 6. State the function of the arrector pili muscle. 7. Name the secretion of the sebaceous gland. 8. State the three stages of hair growth. 9. Name the active growing stage. 4. To include the following is the middle and largest layer of the hair is made up of long, interlocking, twisting cells the interlocking cells are known as macrofibrils, microfibrils, protofibrils and polypeptide chains contains the pigment melanin chemical can alter the position of the bonds holding the interlocking structures together is the main bulk of the hair is responsible for the properties of elasticity 5. The dermis 6. To raise the hair for warmth or when frightened 7. Sebum 8. All of the following anagen catagen telogen 9. Anagen 10. Name the three generic hair types 10. All of the following: Caucasian Asian African Caribbean Page 42 - Unit - Session 2. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Services, products and pricing (Part 1) Hair and growth characteristics Trainer Summary 2.1 The services where clients would need special advice prior to their visit, the type of advice to give and the reasons why special advice is necessary Remind learners that they should be prepared to give special advice prior to the client s appointment at any time. Reiterate some of the circumstances when special advice would definitely be necessary: prior to a quasi or permanent colour before a special occasion if the client had any physical disabilities if the client was unsure about the service or treatment if any precautionary tests were required to be carried out prior to a treatment or service that will take a considerable length of time, i.e. hair extensions. Some colouring and perming services 2.2 Current fashion trends and looks Remind learners of the importance of keeping up-todate with current trends and looks. Reiterate the importance of Continuing Professional Development (CPD) that can gained by. developing new hairdressing or barbering skills attending demonstrations attending manufacturers courses taking additional units of the NVQ/SVQ taking additional hairdressing or barbering qualifications participating in staff development programmes Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 43 - Unit - Session 2.
2.3 The basic structure of the hair and skin Recap on the structure of the hair: cuticle cortex macrofibrils microfibrils polypeptide chains medulla And the skin and its appendages: epidermis dermis sweat gland sebaceous gland arrector pili muscle nerve supply blood supply 2.4 The growth cycle of hair Remind learners of the three stages of hair growth: Anagen Catagen Telogen 2.5 The characteristics of different hair types and textures Restate that the three generic hair types are: Caucasian Asian African Caribbean Recap on some of the differences between them. Page 44 - Unit - Session 2. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
2.6 The general factors that contribute to healthy hair Remind learners that the following can contribute to healthy hair: age diet illness hormones health what you eat chemicals what you put on your hair environment where you live, effects of weather Research.2a and Research.2b Set a date for the completion of the research projects Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 45 - Unit - Session 2.
Services, products and pricing (Part 1) Hair and growth characteristics Key Skill Opportunities: There will be an opportunity to promote discussion when covering;.2.1.2.2 The special advice that clients may need prior to their visit How to undertake CPD There will be an opportunity to improve own learning when completing the research for:.2a.2b Making a portfolio of current trends and looks Foods for healthy hair There will be an opportunity to develop IT skills when completing the research for:.2a.2b Making a portfolio of current trends and looks Foods for healthy hair Page 46 - Unit - Session 2. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.