The new luxury in beauty Market overview Giovanni Battista Vacchi, Partner EY - Parthenon March 2018 The better the question. The better the answer. The better the world works.
Agenda Luxury beauty industry overview Personal care M&A trends
% of total personal care market b By 2020, personal care is expected to be a ~ 504b market globally driven by growth in Asia-Pacific region and higher growth rate across categories Global personal care market is expected to grow at a CAGR of 5.8% to 2020 (estimated) 301 333 366 402 449 504 Global personal care market share (%) is driven by high growth in Asia-Pacific through 2020 4,8% 5,0% 4,7% 5,5% 4,6% 6,2% 4,9% 6,7% 4,9% 7,2% 4,9% 7,8% 10,7% 11,8% 13,0% 13,4% 14,3% 15,2% 22,7% 22,2% 21,1% 20,8% 20,2% 19,3% 25,4% 23,6% 22,1% 20,8% 19,8% 18,8% 29,6% 30,5% 31,4% 31,8% 32,0% 32,4% Asia Pacific Western Europe North America Latin America Middle East and Africa (MEA) Eastern Europe Australasia 36% 30% Color cosmetics and men s grooming to drive the personal care market through 2020 Bubble size indicates 2016 market size in b Skin care 105,1 The overall global personal care market is valued at 402b in 2016. Within this market, the perfumes and cosmetics luxury segment accounted for 49b in 2016 24% 18% 12% 6% Hair care 65.4 Bath and shower 35,0 Oral care 38,3 Men's grooming 43,3 Sun care 8,4 Color cosmetics 55,0 0% 4,5% 5,0% 5,5% 6,0% 6,5% 7,0% CAGR (2016-20e) Source: Euromonitor, EY Analysis 3
Color cosmetics Among the personal care categories, colour cosmetics represent one of the fastest growing Global cosmetics and make-up market size (2010 20e) Colour cosmetics market is expected to perform better than last five years, driven by: Rising demand for natural ingredients-based cosmetics Progressive category innovations Developing fashion trends and rising interest in grooming, driven by selfie concept and social media emergence Increased demand from emerging markets, driven by rising consumer spending and urbanization 5.6% 6.4% 40b 43b 48b 55b 62b 70b 4,6% 5,2% 5,8% 6,3% 6,7% 7,2% 8,3% 9,0% 9,7% 9,9% 10,4% 10,9% 24,3% 23,1% 22,0% 21,0% 20,3% 19,6% 27,8% 27,4% 28,2% 28,1% 28,4% 29,0% 28,2% 28,6% 27,6% 27,8% 27,3% 26,3% MEA Asia-Pacific Australasia Latin America Eastern Europe North America Western Europe CAGR:2010 16 CAGR:2016 20 Source: Euromonitor, Canaccord Research report, EY Analysis, Secondary Research 4
Men s grooming Among the personal care categories, men s grooming represent one of the fastest growing Global men s grooming market size (2010 20e) Men s care would see better growth compared to its historical rate mainly due to: 5.4% 6.4% 32b 35b 39b 43b 49b 55b More men paying attention to their appearance, boosting the growth of male-specific products Emergence of the fashionconscious metrosexual man Growth of online retail platform for men s grooming products Male grooming that s expanded beyond basic shaving and fragrance and now includes men s toiletries 6,6% 6,5% 6,2% 6,4% 6,4% 6,3% 14,9% 16,8% 19,5% 21,4% 23,4% 25,2% 14,9% 16,2% 16,9% 17,1% 17,2% 17,5% 23,0% 22,0% 21,1% 20,6% 19,9% 19,0% 33,4% 30,7% 28,0% 25,8% 24,1% 22,5% Western Europe North America Asia-Pacific Latin America Eastern Europe MEA Australasia CAGR:2010 16 CAGR:2016 20 Source: Euromonitor, Canaccord Research report, EY Analysis, Secondary Research 5
Skin care Skin care to witness steady growth backed by innovative products and growing skin care awareness among the consumers Global skin care market size (2010 20e) Skin care is forecasted to grow at a CAGR of 5.9% to 2020e, fuelled by: Innovation Effective antiaging and natural/organic products Skin care awareness and consciousness among consumers Growth of niche brands consumers desire for highefficacy skin care has helped niche brands flourish as they are viewed as specialists Asianification products from Asia becoming more popular in the US and Europe 4.9% 5.9% 79b 87b 96b 105b 117b 132b 3,5% 3,4% 3,3% 3,6% 3,7% 3,8% 6,0% 6,4% 6,7% 6,9% 7,4% 7,8% 17,4% 17,1% 16,5% 16,3% 16,0% 15,4% 21,4% 19,6% 18,4% 17,3% 16,5% 15,7% 47,3% 49,0% 50,3% 50,7% 51,0% 51,6% Asia Pacific Western Europe North America Latin America Eastern Europe MEA Australasia CAGR:2010 16 CAGR:2016 20 Source: Euromonitor, Canaccord Research report, EY Analysis, Secondary Research 6
Sun care Sun care to witness steady growth backed by innovative products and growing skin care awareness among the consumers Global sun care market size (2010 20e) Sun care is expected to see stronger growth in the next five years, driven by: Increasing concerns about sun damage and harmful effects of UV radiation Increasing demand for selftanning products in Europe and multifunctional products in North America Increasing popularity of sun care products with healthy ingredients Strong demand for antiaging products with SPF Introduction of innovative and easy-to-use product application formats 4.0% 5.8% 6b 7b 8b 8b 9b 11b 2,8% 2,7% 2,7% 2,8% 2,8% 2,8% 11,7% 14,2% 15,8% 14,6% 15,2% 16,6% 21,3% 22,0% 23,5% 24,4% 24,8% 25,3% 24,8% 25,2% 22,9% 22,9% 22,6% 21,7% 35,0% 31,2% 30,0% 29,8% 28,7% 27,4% Western Europe North America Asia-Pacific Latin America Eastern Europe MEA Australasia CAGR:2010 16 CAGR:2016 20 Source: Euromonitor, Canaccord Research report, EY Analysis, Secondary Research 7
Bath and shower Bath and shower are likely to witness growth driven by increased awareness about health and hygiene Global bath and shower market size (2010 20e) Bath and shower would see an increase over its historical average driven by: 4.0% 5.8% 26b 29b 32b 35b 39b 43b Increasing importance of personal cleanliness Bath products viewed as a way to relax and de-stress Innovation to focus on product functionality and natural-based ingredients 6,5% 7,1% 7,8% 8,6% 9,6% 10,6% 9,9% 10,5% 11,4% 12,3% 13,1% 14,0% 23,8% 22,2% 20,6% 19,2% 18,3% 17,5% 24,6% 24,3% 23,1% 22,5% 22,0% 21,3% 28,9% 29,8% 31,0% 31,1% 30,7% 30,4% Asia-Pacific Eastern Europe Australasia Latin America MEA North America Western Europe CAGR:2010 16 CAGR:2016 20 Source: Euromonitor, Canaccord Research report, EY Analysis, Secondary Research 8
Oral care Oral care is likely to witness growth driven by increased awareness about health and hygiene Global oral care market size (2010 20e) Oral care is expected to see steady growth at the back of an: Increased awareness about oral hygiene and fresh breath Strong demand for dental floss and mouth fresheners Rise in the number of dental disorders Rise in technological advancements 5.2% 5.5% 28b 32b 34b 38b 42b 48b 4,5% 4,9% 5,5% 6,0% 6,5% 7,1% 10,5% 11,5% 12,1% 12,5% 13,0% 13,7% 25,4% 24,1% 22,7% 21,6% 20,6% 19,6% 25,4% 24,2% 23,3% 22,1% 21,3% 20,5% 28,4% 29,7% 30,9% 32,0% 32,8% 33,4% Asia-Pacific Australasia MEA Latin America Eastern Europe North America Western Europe CAGR:2010 16 CAGR:2016 20 Source: Euromonitor, Canaccord Research report, EY Analysis, Secondary Research 9
Hair care Hair care is expected to have robust growth of 5.0% over the next few years compared to 4.1% CAGR historically Global hair care market size (2010 20e) Hair care is seeing a strong 5% CAGR to 2020e, higher than its historical average due to: Increase in hair-related problems due to unhealthy lifestyle, seasonal and climatic factors Consumers turning to hair-styling products and hair colours Consumers preference for herbal hair care products due to rising concern about chemicals Rise of co-cleansing consumers opting to use a cleansing conditioner along with shampoo Increased segmentation and customization 4.1% 5.0% 52b 56b 61b 65b 72b 80b 5,3% 6,0% 6,8% 7,6% 8,4% 9,2% 13,2% 14,4% 16,2% 16,3% 17,3% 18,6% 21,1% 20,2% 19,3% 19,2% 18,7% 17,9% 23,6% 21,9% 20,4% 19,1% 18,0% 17,1% 30,1% 30,9% 30,9% 31,2% 31,0% 30,9% Asia-Pacific Western Europe North America Latin America MEA Eastern Europe Australasia CAGR:2010 16 CAGR:2016 20 Source: Euromonitor, Canaccord Research report, EY Analysis, Secondary Research 10
Key themes driving the new luxury in beauty With the emergence of digital environment, consumers are changing how they interact with brands Personal care companies are adjusting product lines to accommodate baby boomers and incoming millennials Consumers preference and expectations of where and how they shop is shifting from traditional channels Ageless beauty Transformative distribution Digital engagement Secondary attributes Key themes driving personal care Value creation through premiumization Natural and organic Gender segmentation just for men Growth in emerging markets As consumers seek premium personal care products, masstige category witnesses growth as brands bring prestige to the masses The emergence of the fashion-conscious and aware male has caused growth in male focused grooming products Emerging markets are expected to be 50% of total personal care sales by 2020 Lack of breakthrough in core technology has resulted in companies looking at secondary attributes to drive growth Growing awareness of ingredients and their effects among consumers fuelling growth in natural and organic products Source: EY Analysis 11
Agenda Luxury beauty industry overview Personal care M&A trends
Key rationales of recent deals in personal care sector 1 Product Research of premium/prestige products Affordable cosmetics Focus on natural products Millenials and Gen-Z are multicultural Hybrid skin-care and makeup Market Niche markets with local brands with a global reach Diversification by markets and local habits (Asia) Research of new distribution platforms in emerging markets 2 3 Innovation Cosmetics high tech partnerships to develop digital products Research of digital competences and positioning through social- media Distribution Multi-channel distribution Specialized multi-brand Exclusive retailers Direct-to-consumer channel (DTC) 4 Source: EY Analysis 13
Number of deals m The deal volume reached its peak in 2017, mostly with lower size transactions Deal activity by volume in cosmetics and personal care Global level Average deal size ( m) in cosmetics and personal care Global level for deal value available 120 100 105 1.400 1.200 1.216 80 60 40 20 35 38 42 29 26 44 61 1.000 800 600 400 200 401 200 203 334 467 633 252 0 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 0 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 Breakdown of countries by target nationality (2010-2017) Global United States 24,2% 2,3% 2,3% 2,3% 3,1% 3,8% 8,0% 9,4% 33,3% 11,3% France Italy United Kingdom Germany South Korea China Japan Spain Other The cosmetics and personal care average deal value peaked in 2016, driven by megadeals However, the risks and opportunities brought by the digital age and the need for further consolidation may change these dynamics USA, France and Italy are top geographies by nationality of the target acquired in the post-crisis period (2010-2017) The same countries are leading buyers: USA (104 acquisitions), France (48), UK (27) and Italy (25) * Deal value threshold of $ 5m considered Source: Capital IQ, MergerMarket, EY Analysis, Secondary Research 14
Number of deals m The deal volume reached its peak in 2017, mostly with lower size transactions Deal activity by volume in cosmetics and personal care Europe level Average deal size ( m) in cosmetics and personal care Europe level for deal value available 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 37 23 20 19 15 16 15 12 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100 0 825 566 470 259 119 163 163 58 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 Breakdown of countries by target nationality (2010-2017) Europe 1,9% 1,3% 6,5% France 2,6% Italy 3,9% 5,2% 9,0% 18,1% 27,7% 23,9% United Kingdom Germany Spain Sweden Poland Ireland Belgium Other The cosmetics and personal care average deal value peaked in 2014, driven by a mega-deal However 2017 showed a sharp increase in the number of deals (+60.9%), characterized by relatively smaller size. The pace of consolidation in the industry is therefore accelerating Opportunities brought by the digital age and the need for further consolidation are likely to confirm this trend in 2018 France and Italy, followed by the UK, are top geographies by nationality of the target acquired in the post-crisis period (2010-2017) * Deal value threshold of $ 5m considered Source: Capital IQ, MergerMarket, EY Analysis, Secondary Research 15
About EY-Parthenon Parthenon joined Ernst & Young LLP on August 29, 2014. EY-Parthenon is a strategy consultancy, committed to bringing unconventional yet pragmatic thinking together with our clients smarts to deliver actionable strategies for real impact in today s complex business landscape. Innovation has become a necessary ingredient for sustained success. Critical to unlocking opportunities is EY-Parthenon s ideal balance of strengths specialized experience with broad executional capabilities to help you optimize your portfolio of businesses, uncover industry insights to make investment decisions, find effective paths for strategic growth opportunities and make acquisitions more rewarding. Our proven methodologies along with a progressive spirit can deliver intelligent services for our clients, amplify the impact of our strategies and make us the global advisor of choice for business leaders. About EY-Parthenon s consumer sector Our Consumer practice advises a broad range of companies on how to strategically grow their top line, with respect for the bottom line. Consulting to large corporations, private equity firms, and portfolio companies. The group includes consultants and former operating executives with a focus on food, beverage, and restaurants. Contact us Giovanni Battista Vacchi Partner EY-Parthenon, Italy GiovanniBattista.Vacchi@it.ey.com +39 348 1532758 Federico Bonelli Partner EY-Parthenon, Italy Federico.Bonelli@it.ey.com +39 366 8543539 This material has been prepared for general informational purposes only and is not intended to be relied upon as accounting, tax, or other professional advice. Please refer to your advisors for specific advice. Jeff Wray Partner EY-Parthenon, USA Jeff.Wray@parthenon.ey.com +1 215 448 4099 Follow us for regular updates Twitter @Parthenon_EY Facebook facebook.com/parthenoney LinkedIn linkedin.com/company/parthenon-ey www.parthenon.ey.com