E-HAIR COLLEGE 1. Read Chapter in Salon Fundamental textbook. 2. Complete study guide. 3. Read these additional notes. 4. For review go to Practice online and review quizzes, puzzles. 5. Study and complete Test Lesson # 9 Chemistry Why is Chemistry Important? Chemistry is the scientific study of matter and the physical and chemical changes of matter. WHY CHEMISTRY??????? Many of the services you will provide change the hair, skin and nails chemically as well as physically. Safety in the workplace. Chemistry: The study of matter, its composition, structure and properties, and the changes they may undergo under different chemical conditions. Organic chemistry: All substances in which carbon is present. The term organic in chemistry refers to something that is living or has ever been alive. Organic chemistry includes animals, plants, petroleum, soft coal, natural gas, and many artificially prepared substances. Inorganic chemistry: All substances or compounds that do not contain carbon such as water, air, iron, lead, minerals and iodine. Inorganic substances are not and never were alive. Substances will not burn and are usually soluble in water.
Describe matter MATTER IS ANYTHING THAT OCCUPIES SPACE!!!! HAIR IS COMPRISED OF TWO SOLIDS (CARBON AND SULFUR) AND THREE GASES (HYDROGEN, NITROGEN AND OXYGEN). AND YET HAIR IS A SOLID. Solids - matter with definite weight, volume and shape Example hair Liquids matter with definite weight and volume but no definite shape Example perms, colors, shampoo Gases- matter with definite weight but indefinite volume and shape Example gas Matter can be changed from one of these forms solid, liquid or gas to another to two ways: 1. Physical change a change in the physical characteristics of a substance without creating a new substance. Example: water turning to ice 1. Chemical change a change in a substance that creates a new substance with chemical characteristics different from those of the original substance. Example: hydrogen and oxygen form water. Assignment: Make a list of solids, liquids or gases, in our industry; explain what change occurs when they are used.
The five elements of hair and the structure and behavior of atoms. Hair is comprised of two solids (carbon and sulfur) and three gases (hydrogen, nitrogen and oxygen) and yet hair is solid. FIVE ELEMENTS OF HAIR 1. CARBON is a solid. 2. OXYGEN is a gas, the most abundant element in the earth s crust and the second most abundant in the earth s atmosphere. 3. HYDROGEN is a gas, the simplest atomic structure. 4. NITROGEN is a gas. 5. SULFUR is a solid. ATOMS are the smallest complete unit of an element. Protons a positive electrical charge. Neutrons have no electrical charge, they are neutral. Electrons a negative electrical charge, they make it possible for atoms to unite with other atoms to form bonds. MOLECULES two or more atoms joined together by a chemical bond. AMINO ACIDS Compounds consisting of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen and nitrogen. There are 22 common amino acids. Join together in chains to become proteins, which provide the chemicals the body needs for growth and repairing tissues. KERATIN Hair is a form of protein called keratin. Keratin in hair contains 19-22 common amino acids. Hair is made of 97% keratin protein and 3% trace minerals.
The bonds pertaining to hairstyling. PEPTIDE BONDS (End Bonds) connect thousands of amino bonds lengthwise to form a chain. The peptide bond is the backbone of all protein molecules. When two amino acids are positioned end to end, the acid end of one amino acid attaches to the amino end of another amino acid. The peptide bond forms when these two ends join. SIDE BONDS are important when giving chemical services. When amino acids combine to form the keratin protein of hair, they take on a spiraling configuration. The hydrogen bond The salt bond The disulfide bond Van der Waal s Forces HYDROGEN BONDS The hydrogen atom in one molecule is attracted to an atom of another molecule that has negative electrons. Hair has many hydrogen bonds, which are individually very weak and can easily be broken by heat and water. About 35% of the hair s strength is due to millions of hydrogen bonds in its structure. SALT BONDS The negative charge in one amino acid grouping attracts the positive charge in another amino acid grouping. Salt bonds organize the protein chains. Both hydrogen and salt bonds can be weakened by water; hair can be shampooed, set on rollers and dried by heat into a new shape.
DISULFIDE BONDS Sulfur-type side chains join with other sulfur-type side chains, they form the disulfide bond. The bond is a chemical bond that forms between protein structures. Chemical services such as perming and relaxing the hair directly affect the disulfide bond by breaking the bond and reforming it to a new shape. Van der Waal s Forces The theory that atomic groups prefer an environment with other groups that have structures similar to theirs. This does not pertain to the hairstylist s work. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT NOT TO DISTURB PEPTIDE BONDS Example: Placing client under a dryer with sodium hydroxide relaxer, the combination of the alkaline chemicals and heat could break the peptide bonds and destroy the protein structure of the hair. Assignment: Explain the reason for understanding bonds for the hairstyling industry.
Ph SCALE ph - Potential Hydrogen A unit of measurement that indicates whether a substance is acidic, neutral or alkaline. Numbers on the ph scale determine if the product is acid, alkaline or neutral. Only products containing water can be evaluated on the ph scale. ACID numbers are: 0-6.99 ALKALINE numbers are: 7.01-14 NEUTRAL number is: 7 ACID NEUTRAL ALKALINE 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 Ph BALANCED = ph is balanced at a certain number Example: When a product balanced between acid and alkaline, the product could be a 7. ACID BALANCED = Balanced in the acid range of the scale only. Example: The ph would be 3.5. PH measurements and values: Assist your ability to keep the hair, skin and scalp in the best condition possible. Analyzing your client s hair will determine the condition and what product would be allowed on the hair without causing damage or breakage to the hair strand or scalp.
ITEM Ph Value Acid, Alkaline Or Neutral Lemon Juice 2.5 acid Distilled Water 7.0 neutral Toothpaste 8.5 alkaline Acid perm 6.9-7.2 acid Alkaline Perm 8.0-9.5 alkaline Acid perm 6.9-7.2 acid Neutralizer 3.0-7.0 acid Hair, Skin, Scalp 4.5-5.5 acid Peroxide 3.0 acids Hair color 9.5-10.5 alkaline High Lift Color 9-10 high alkaline Oil Bleach 8-9.5 high alkaline Powder Bleach 10.0-11.0 high alkaline Hair relaxer 11.5-14.0 high alkaline Cream Rinse 3-4 acid Acidifying Conditioner 2.2-5.5 acid Deep penetrating Conditioner 3.5-5.5 acid Shampoo acid balanced 4.5-5.5 acid Shampoo alkaline 7.0-9.0 alkaline Shampoo for colored hair 5.5 acid Medicated Shampoo 7-8 mild alkaline Mousses 5.5-6.0 mild alkaline Gel 4.5-5.5 acid Hair spray 5.0-6.0 acid Skin Cleansers 4.5-5.5 acid Toner 5.5-6.0 acid Moisturizer 5.5-6.0 acid Nail polish remover 5.0-6.0 acid Cuticle Crème 5.5-6.0 acid Hand Lotion 4.5-5.5 acid
Cosmetic Classifications: SOLUTIONS: Mixture of 2 or more kinds of molecules; do not separate; can be solid, liquid or gas. SUSPENSIONS: Mixture of 2 or more kinds of molecules; separates; need to be shaken, such as vinegar and oil. EMULSIONS: 2 or more non-mixable substances united by a binder(gum) e.g. Oil in water (perms) water in oil (cold cream) OINTMENTS: Mixture of organic substance and a medicinal agent (semi-solid form); no water, e.g. Lipstick SOAPS: Mixtures of fat and oil converted to fatty acids by heat and then purified. POWDERS: Equal mixtures of inorganic and organic substances that do NOT dissolve in water; sifted and mixed until free of coarse grit. SHAMPOOS: Water based product and contains an ingredient known as surfactant or (cleansing agent). Surfactants, also called surface active agents, are used to remove oil and debris from the hair. Check ph of shampoos and select accordingly. CONDITIONERS: Products that can smooth rough hair cuticles add protein molecules to the hair shaft and add humectants (moisturizers) to replace moisture to dry hair.
PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE SUMMARY: PERMANENT WAVES: Chemically change the shape and formation of the hair shaft by breaking the disulfide bond and then reconnecting to a new shape. ALKALINE PERMANENT WAVE: The main ingredient found in alkaline waves is thioglygolic acid or its derivatives and ammonium hydroxide. Ammonium hydroxide is added to the formula to shorten the processing time. Swells the hair during processing to allow the chemical to enter the cortex and break the disulfide bonds. ACID PERMANENT WAVE: The main chemical ingredient is glycerol monothioglycolate. Not as strong and is used for hair that has been pre-colored or highlighted. Heat has to be added in some acid waves through a plastic cap which creates body heat, a hairdryer or a hot towel which will assist in opening of the cuticle. HAIR RELAXERS: Also known as hairstraighteners A chemical hair relaxer reduces curl in excessively curly or wavy hair by changing its molecular structure. Used mostly on Afro-American hair types or overly curly hair CURL REFORMING: A heavy cream base, it is applied to the hair and the cream hold the hair in a straight position while it is being chemically straightened. In addition a smoothing or pressing action is applied to the softened hair, causing the entire protein structure to relax to a straighter position. NEUTRALIZING The bonding process. Utilizes a shampoo or lotion to reduce the swelling caused by alkaline formulas.
Chemical change causes the hair to be held in the new straight configuration. There are two types of relaxers: Sodium hydroxide Formulated with 2% to 3% sodium hydroxide in a heavy cream base with an alkaline ph of anywhere from 11.5 to 14. A very high ph and should be used with caution. All scalps or hair types can not take this high an alkaline product and may cause burns, skin irritations and the hair may break. Always read manufacturers directions and follow a complete analysis of your client s hair and scalp. Ammonium thioglycolate Formulated with 4% to 6% thioglycolic acid or its derivatives with 1% ammonium hydroxide. 8.8 to 9.5 ph. A cream base is also usually added. Always read manufacturers directions and complete a full hair and scalp analysis. RELAXERS ARE VERY STRONG CHEMICALS AND SHOULD NEVER BE MIXED WITH EACH OTHER OR WITH OTHER CHEMICALS CURL REFORMATION The hair is first smoothed into a relaxed shape by using the back of a comb or fingers combined with the application of a thioglycolate product in a gel or cream form. Once the hair has achieved a straightened shape, the thioglycolate product is rinsed from the hair. A curl booster is applied and perm rods are used to achieve the curl formation. The test curl displays the desired curl formation. Hair is rinsed and neutralized. Hair is now straightened and reshaped to a new curl size and shape which is more manageable.
HAIR COLOR Products come in various forms and types. Six different types of hair coloring products. 1. Non-oxidative color 2. Oxidative color 3. Lighteners 4. Developers 5. Vegetable 6. Metallic and compound dyes. 1. Non-oxidative Color which are the temporary and semi-permanent colors. Temporary colors Non-reactive and only coat the outside of the hair shaft. Can not lighten hair only color the outside layers of the hair. Used in mousses and sprays for decorative or costume use. Wash out as soon as they are shampooed. Semi-Permanent colors Dye-molecules that slightly penetrate the cuticle layers of the hair. Smaller in size and weight, the molecules have the ability to penetrate into the cuticle layers of the hair. Allows the color to stay on longer and can last 4 to 6 shampoos. Slightly alkaline in ph. Semi-permanent color can not lighten the hair only deposit color that is darker or the same color. Used for the coverage of 10% gray hair or to add a new tone of color to existing hair. 2. Oxidative color Require the use of developers or peroxides to assist in lifting or lightening natural hair color pigment from the hair and replacing it with chemically designed artificial color in its place. Long-lasting Semi-Permanent Color (Demi-permanent color) Use a low volume of peroxide to assist in penetrating the color molecules into the cortex of the hair; also called depositing colors. Peroxide alone does not lift color from the hair, it needs ammonia to assist.
Ammonia is a colorless gas with a strong odor, composed of hydrogen and nitrogen. Colors cannot lift or lighten the hair but because of the low volume of longer period of time. Good color choice for someone new at coloring their hair and want to try a color for the first time that will not leave a demarcation or require retouch applications. Long lasting colors come in gel, creams or liquid forms. Permanent Hair color An oxidative system with colorless molecules. When these molecules are combined with peroxide, a chemical reaction occurs, building colored molecules. Small molecules enter into the hair with the aid of an alkaline substance such as ammonia. They oxidize in the cuticle and the cortex and they link together to form a permanent colored molecule. Permanent hair color has the power to lighten and darken the hair permanently. Natural color is changed to artificial color. Color can not be washed out although fading may occur if high traces of chlorine are in tap water or the incorrect shampoo is used. Another name for permanent hair color is aniline derivative tints which penetrate the cuticle and the cortex of the hair shaft. The primary ingredient is paraphenylene diamine or a related chemical. Allergy tests such as patch test and strand tests should be given prior to coloring the entire head. Since allergies can occur follow manufacturer s instructions prior to applying color.
3. Lighteners Referred to as highlighting, bleaching, frosting or lifting color from the hair. Made up of a combination of ingredients such as ammonia, conditioning and thickening agents for control of application. Lighteners must be mixed with peroxides in order to activate. product must be used quickly as it weakens in strength. On-the Scalp Lighteners Lighteners have a ph of 9 and are on the alkaline side of the scale. Can be used on the scalp, hair and scalp analysis and allergy checks should be taken to prevent chemical burns or redness to occur. Oil lighteners are the mildest form of lightener and usually can be used on the scalp with no problems. Cream lighteners add conditioners to the hair and make the lightener gentler on the hair and scalp, and are usually in a creamy consistency. Lower on the ph scale and some times require an activator to boost their strength. PH is increased by adding the ingredients of alkali salts and per sulfates. Activators can double the strength of the peroxide if is advisable to not increase more than to 20 volume for on the scalp applications. Off-the Scalp Lighteners Referred to as highlights and are applied onto foil, Styrofoam papers or pulled through a highlighting cap with a hook. Stronger than on-the scalp lighteners and have a ph of 10.3. Come in a powder form and are mixed with varying volumes of peroxides. No more than a 40volume should be used and only if the hair is in healthy condition or breakage will occur. Contain alkaline salts and a strong oxidizing agent that when mixed with peroxide becomes a strong lightening product. This product lightens the hair much faster. Some off the scalp bleaches contain conditioning agents to protect the hair s internal protein structure and the surface of each hair shaft.
4. Developers Referred to as peroxide H2O2 which is an oxidizing agent used for hair coloring and hair lightening. When coloring hair 5, 10 and 20 volume peroxide is used. When highlighting hair various volumes are used depending on desired results. Volumes refer to the amount of oxygen gas that would be removed from a peroxide solution if the molecule was broken into its components, water and oxygen. Hydrogen peroxide is also known as oxidizing agent. The ph of peroxide developers varies between 2.5 and 4.5. peroxide it allows the color to penetrate deeper and remain on for a They can be purchased in liquid, cream or gel forms. Always close the lid tightly or evaporation will occur and the developer can also be weakened. Read manufacturers directions and store in a dry place. 5. Vegetable, Metallic and 6. Compound Dyes Products are not highly used in the hair salons but are purchased through retail stores and markets. Not the purest form of color and if metallic dyes are mixed with permanent wave solution the hair can disintegrate. Henna is a vegetable dye used for creating reddish highlights in the hair. If a client wants to perm their hair the henna is of a honey consistency and will fill the cuticle, so the permanent wave solution can not enter. A professional category of hair color includes natural vegetable dyes; metallic salts and the combination of the two are called a compound dye. Pure metallic dyes will appear to be coated when more than one application is used. On really dark hair a greenish cast may appear if exposed to chlorine or sun. To remove this color you must bleach the hair. Or wait until it grows out. Product will not mix with the aniline derivative tint. Some metallic dyes will appear to be spotty or color in patches of
varying colors. Important to do a thorough hair and scalp examination. Travelers from all over the world will be visiting shops and some products are not compatible with the products in your salon. Read the manufacturers directions and always do an allergy and strand test prior to coloring the entire head. To assist in determining if the hair has metallic dyes, snip a piece off and drop it into some permanent wave solution, if it disintegrates it is metallic and do not add another color until it is removed. In this industry it is wise to follow hair and scalp analysis, consultation, manufacturer s directions and do your own research on the products you are using on your clients. You are responsible for the results of your work. With the internet access and qualified sales representatives of today all products can be researched and you can make the correct decision for each of your clients. Advancing your skills at hair shows or taking classes at your local sales offices will advance your skills and give you the confidence you need to be successful in your decision making. When in school save hair samples from your haircuts and do experiments with different products and follow your teacher s directions. Assignment: 1. Using ph paper which you can purchase at a drug store, test the ph ten products and prepare a list, determine the ph of each product and if it is acid, neutral or alkaline. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.
2. What steps should be taken for accurate analysis of a client s hair and scalp prior to applying a chemical of any kind?