PRODUCTION & QUALITY ASSURANCE MANUAL FABRIC, YARN & TRIM REQUIREMENTS and TESTING GUIDE for Published January 2012 2 nd Edition
INTRODUCTION The booklet has been compiled to give suppliers and mills guidance on the Just Group requirements for Just Jeans, help understand standards on fabric, yarn and trim quality and to select appropriate testing methods should the buying team require testing to be carried out. Communication with the Just Jeans buying team is essential during the development stage, especially when fabrications due to their characteristics cannot meet standard requirements. Critical characteristics must clearly be highlighted, so product managers can either select a more suitable fabrication, or adjust styling to allow for the special character of a fabric or yarn. Suppliers shall not request change of costing resulting from late adjustments. Page 2
Table of Contents INTRODUCTION... 2 1. FABRIC & YARN REQUIREMENTS... 4 1.1 Composition, Weight & Construction... 4 1.2 Colour & Lab-Dip Approvals... 5 1.3 Product Safety Standards... 5 1.4 Australian and New Zealand Customs Requirements... 6 1.5 General Testing Requirements... 7 1.6 Garment Accessory, Trim and Placement Print Testing... 8 1.7 Full Garment Appearance Testing... 9 2. JUST GROUP STANDARD REQUIREMENTS for JUST JEANS... 10 2.1 TEST REPORT Guide... 10 2.2 Physical Standards and Testing Guide WOVENS... 11 2.3 Physical Standards and Testing Guide KNITS (CUT & SEW)... 15 2.4 Physical Standards and Testing Guide FULLY FASHIONED KNITWEAR... 16 2.5 COLOUR FASTNESS Standards and Testing Guide... 17 2.6 GARMENT ACCESSORY Standards and Testing Guide... 20 APPENDIX A FABRIC SPECIFICATION SHEET... 21 APPENDIX B IN-HOUSE TEST REPORT FORM... 23 APPENDIX C TESTING LABORATORIES... 24 REFERENCE DOCUMENTS... 25 Page 3
1. FABRIC & YARN REQUIREMENTS Just Jeans aims to provide customers with premium apparel and accessories to ensure customers are satisfied and can care easily for their Just Jeans garments. To ensure that the Just Group minimum product standards are maintained, fabrics, yarns and trims used in the production of Just Jeans garments must all be tested for physical performance and colour fastness as per Just Group standards. Specific testing requirements will be outlined by the buying team and QA Technician, further Just Group expects suppliers to guarantee their products will meet agreed standards. Requirements for Just Jeans are outlined in section 2. Please submit the correct details regarding fabric or yarn content, fabric construction and weight SEE APPENDIX A, as well as recommended care instructions before order placement. It is the responsibility of suppliers to ensure that bulk fabrics or yarns match the performance and quality of approved standard specification, approved test reports (where requested), approved colours, approved hand-looms and approved strike-offs or approved knit downs. Suppliers are responsible to communicate these requirements to mills, trim suppliers, embroiderers etc. Sample of Bulk (SOB) fabric swatches must be supplied to Just Jeans buying team for visual and hand approval. Suppliers must ensure that accessories, including zippers, trims, panels, prints and labelling used on Just Jeans product meet all Just Group standards and specifications. It is essential that all trims are submitted to the product managers for colour and quality approval. 1.1 Composition, Weight & Construction The following tolerances are commercially acceptable for fabrications or yarns: ITEM TOLERANCE SUGGESTED SUBMISSION TEST (if requested) CONSTRUCTION / YARN COUNT +/- 5% Fabric Specification Sheet Test ISO 7211 / 5 WEIGHT +/- 5% submit 3x circle cut with SOB Test AS 2001.2.13 FIBRE CONTENT - Single Fibre = 100% +/- 0% Fabric Specification Sheet Test AS 2001.7 FIBRE CONTENT (Blends excl. SILK / WOOL) +/- 5% Fabric Specification Sheet Test AS 2001.7 FIBRE CONTENT (WOOL & SILK Blends) +/- 3% Fabric Specification Sheet Test AS 2001.7 Page 4
1.2 Colour & Lab-Dip Approvals Every colour ordered for a style must be approved by Just Jeans prior to dyeing the bulk lot. Preferred lab dips size is 30mm x 30mm. Just Group will review strike-offs, lab dips, hand looms and yarn hanks using a colour assessment cabinet commonly called light box. Mills and suppliers are therefore requested to match these to colour standards using: TL84 and D65 as primary light source, and Tungsten as secondary light source All colours must be checked for metamerism. No metameric colours will be allowed. Metamerism is where 2 samples match under one light source, but not another. Just Group references TL84 to emulate shop light, D65 to emulate daylight, and Tungsten for the more frequently used down lights now widely used in Just Jeans stores. 1.3 Product Safety Standards This section outlines dyes and chemicals which should not be used in any part of the manufacture of fabrics, trims and accessories of garments for Just Group s Just Jeans brand. AZO DYES Just Group does not allow any products to be dyed with prohibited Azo Dyes. Fabrics which are considered high risk will be randomly tested for Azo dyes, these include silk, wool and leather. NO AZO DYES which can break down to release CARINOGENIC AMINES (22 amines listed in EU Directive 2002/61/EC & 24 listed by OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100) are permitted. DISPERSE DYES Just Group does not allow any fabrics/garments to be dyed with any of the sensitizing disperse dyes. NO ALLEREGENIC DISPERSE DYES (21 disperse dyes listed by OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100) are permitted. PROHIBITED CHEMICALS Just Group does not allow any products to be processed with any of the following chemicals on the restricted substance list: PCB'S / PCT'S CHLORINATED BENZENES / TOLUENES CHLORINATED PHENOLS APEO'S DIMETHYLFORMAMIDE (DMF) Page 5
FORMALDEHYDE Formaldehyde is a volatile gaseous compound that is used in many different applications for the manufacturing of many materials, as a preservative and as a chemical intermediate for dyes and other agents just to name a few. In textiles it is predominantly applied as a resin to act as a finish such as wrinkle and stain resistance treatment The ACCC has provided a guide to reference limits for levels of formaldehyde in various products: infants' clothing (newborn to 36 months) - 30 ppm clothing specifically marketed as suitable for people with sensitive skin - 30 ppm garments which contact the skin - 100 ppm other garments or fabrics - 300 ppm. For all high risk items suppliers must guarantee that there is no formaldehyde or be tested under ISO 14184-1, and test reports are to be submitted to Just Group. High risk items include but are not limited to prints, fusible, coated fabrics including denim, chest canvases, any fabrics which have been resin finished waterproof, non-iron etc. Please be aware that Just Group will conduct random due diligence testing. NICKLE All metal components must be nickle free. LEAD All accessories must be lead free. SPRAY GUN SANDBLASTING No garments produced for the Just Group should be treated with spray gun sandblasting. 1.4 Australian and New Zealand Customs Requirements The Australian and New Zealand Governments each control the importation of goods into the country. Certain goods are prohibited where others carry restrictions. Restricted goods include but are not limited to: feathers fur horns animal hides and skins It is the suppliers responsibility to ensure that all merchandise complies with all quarantine requirements, which includes appropriate documentation and certification confirming that the products have been treated and manufactured appropriately. Page 6
1.5 General Testing Requirements This section outlines testing procedures through third party testing facilities, where testing on fabrics, linings, yarns or trims have been required by the buying team or QA Technician. Suppliers accept all responsibility for testing and ensuring fabrics, yarns and accessories meet the required Just Group quality standards. Fabrics used as trim on a garment are considered fabrics for the purpose of testing. No fabric is to be cut until sample of bulk (SOB) fabric and Pre-Production Sample have been approved by the Just Jeans buying team visually and for handle, and requested test reports have been approved. Required testing must be carried out by approved laboratories, or mill as approved for testing by Just Group. Fabric test reports must be submitted including a communication summarising report findings. Please send the original PDF file soft copy provided by the laboratory. Only on occasion the QA Technician may request to see the actual tested specimen for a decision on borderline results. o All test items PASS advise the QA Technician and submit report for reference. o Some test items have minor FAIL advise Just Jeans of your assessment, and possible adjustments to prevent customer dissatisfaction (for example changes to care wording; additional wear or wash testing etc.). o Test outcomes showing critical FAIL - immediate action is to be taken to assess if refinishing will improve fabric or yarn quality. Just Jeans buying team must be advised as fabric refinishing may result in delayed delivery. When fabric is refinished please be aware it may require full retesting as refinishing may affect other quality standards of a fabric or yarn, discuss details with the QA technician. A bulk swatch of the refinished fabric must be submitted to Just Jeans for visual and hand approval. Fabric samples for testing purposes should be taken from a minimum of 2 meters from the end of the roll (final meters). For fully fashioned knitwear testing is to be done in garment form for physical quality testing and a knit down of each colourway is to be provided for colour fastness testing. Dimensional stability to washing and colour fastness to washing should follow the care wording agreed for a particular item. Temperatures as per Australian Standards are: Cold = 30 C Warm = 40 C Hot = 60 C All wash testing should be done in top loader washing machines, as these are more prevalent in Australia and New Zealand. Page 7
1.6 Garment Accessory, Trim and Placement Print Testing Just Jeans requests wash or dry clean trials to be carried out in swatch or panel form, if: Woven trims, tapes, cords or accessories are in contrasting colour, or placement prints, or beads and/or sequins are part of the embellishment, and /or contrasting embroidery threads are being used. Wash test should be done by washing the swatch or panel 3 times in a domestic top loading washing machine or by hand-wash as per care wording, using a mild detergent or wool wash detergent respectively. Dry cleaning should be tested by commercially dry-cleaning (P) a swatch or panel 1 time. The outcomes should be well documented including a reference specimen prior to laundering and presented to Just Jeans buying team if required. See APPENDIX B for the preferred report format. Zippers and snap buttons from Just Group approved suppliers do not require additional testing, but proof of purchase may need to be provided. For all Just Jeans apparel YKK, YBS, CMZ, SBS, Ideal or Opti zippers are to be used, other brands can only be used if tested and agreed with the QA Technician and buying team. Testing of labels is to be carried out by the supplier at development stage as part of the approval process. Page 8
1.7 Full Garment Appearance Testing Garment appearance after wash and/or dry cleaning needs to be tested, where fabric, yarn, trim and accessory testing is not sufficient to asses if a product is fit for purpose, or if so requested by the Just Jeans buying team or QA Technician. The test result must be submitted with PP Samples. Refer to Appearance Retention after washing - ISO6330:2000; AS2001.5.4. Examples for required testing are: Colour blocked garments, or garments with contrasting lining, or garments with contrast trims, or garments with material blocking, where differences in laundering shrinkage could affect appearance and wear ability. Wash test must be done by washing the product 3 times in a domestic top loading washing machine or by hand wash as per care wording, using a mild detergent or wool wash detergent respectively. Dry cleaning must be tested by commercially dry-cleaning (P) garments once. The outcomes must be well documented and presented to Just Jeans buying team or QA Technician if required. Submit either the laboratory test report, or use the preferred report format shown under APPENDIX B. Page 9
2. JUST GROUP STANDARD REQUIREMENTS for JUST JEANS 2.1 TEST REPORT Guide In order to ensure reports are complete, meaningful and a solid basis for informed decision making, Just Group has the following requirements. Laboratories will: report all PASS and FAIL use D65 as light source for all visual approvals Reports applications and first page of report to state: Just Group brand correct line number and style description correct fabric/yarn description including fabric weight and % of fibre content correct colour name and /or print description (as per Just Group PO) Just Group testing code to be applied applicant name appropriate wash care instruction used as base for testing Reports to contain: correct & clear image of the submitted test specimen sample received date and test report date all passed and failed results to be documented test report summary - list of tests carried out and pass and fail colourfastness results against full multi fibre strip (wool, acrylic, polyester, nylon, cotton and acetate) specimen of various prints or colours have to be clearly identifiable, in the header it must be clear what the (A) or (B) stand for: example (A) Black and (B) Pink etc. Reports should be consolidated / separated as follows: all test results for the same fabrication showing in one and the same report no more than 5 colours /prints to be covered in one report separate shell fabric and lining into individual reports (same report = one and the same fabrication only) The standard requirements are shown in charts separated into woven fabrics, knitted fabrics (cut & sew) and knitwear. For easy reference codes are assigned by main composition and end use. The relevant code for physical performance and colour fastness should be stated on the test application form for the laboratory. Page 10
2.2 Physical Standards and Testing Guide WOVENS CODE CATEGORY END USE DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING (x3 AS PER CARE LABEL) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRY CLEANING (x1) SEAM SLIPPAGE @ 6MM TEAR STRENGTH STRETCH & RECOVERY MARTINDALE ABRASION PILLING SPECIFIC ADDITIONAL REQUIREMENTS WOVENS TEST METHOD IS06330:2000 AS 2001.5.4 USE TOP LOADER COMMERCIAL DRY CLEAN ISO13936 AS2001.2.22 ISO13937-1 ASTM D 1424-83 ASTM D3107/BSENISO ISO12947-2:1998 14704-1 @6kg IWS 196 MARTINDALE BSEN ISO 12945-2 JGPWC8 COTTON AND COTTON TROUSERS, SHORTS, JEANS, SKIRTS, JACKETS, COATS 80N NOT REQUIRED FOR DENIM JEANS 9N ONLY TROUSERS AND SHORTS 20,000 REVS JEANS - FREE FORMALDEHYDE ISO 14184-1 MAX 30PPM PILE FABRICS ACCELERATOR ABRASION 7000 REVS JGPWC14 COTTON AND COTTON FASHION DENIM [TROUSERS, SHORTS, JEANS] 80N 9N MAX 8% ONLY TROUSERS AND SHORTS 20,000 REVS JEANS - FREE FORMALDEHYDE ISO 14184-1 MAX 30PPM JGPWC9 COTTON AND COTTON BLOUSES, SHIRTS, TOPS, DRESSES 65N 7N 1,000 REVS GRADE 4 JGPWC10 COTTON AND COTTON LINING/ 65N 7N ONLY POCKET LINING 10,000 REVS 1,000 REVS GRADE 4 JGPWC11 MODAL, LYOCELL, CUPRO, VISCOSE, BAMBOO, LINEN AND TROUSERS, SHORTS, JEANS, SKIRTS, JACKETS, COATS 80N 9N 1,000 REVS GRADE 3/4 JGPWC12 MODAL, LYOCELL, CUPRO, VISCOSE, BAMBOO, LINEN AND BLOUSES, SHIRTS,TOPS, DRESSES LINING / 65N 7N 1,000 REVS GRADE 3/4 Page 11
CODE CATEGORY END USE DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING (x3 AS PER CARE LABEL) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRY CLEANING (x1) SEAM SLIPPAGE @ 6MM TEAR STRENGTH STRETCH & RECOVERY PILLING SPECIFIC ADDITIONAL REQUIREMEN TS WOVENS TEST METHOD IS06330:2000 2A AS 2001.5.4 USE TOP LOADER COMMERCIAL DRY CLEAN ISO13936 AS2001.2.22 ISO13937-1 ASTM D 1424-83 BSEN ISO 12945- ASTM 2 D3107/BSENISO IWS 196 14704-1 @6kg MARTINDALE JGPWS3 SILK AND SILK TROUSERS, SHORTS, SKIRTS, JACKETS, COATS 80N 9N JGPWS4 SILK AND SILK BLOUSES, SHIRTS, TOPS, DRESSES, LINING/ 65N 7N JGPWP4 POLYESTER AND TROUSERS, SHORTS, SKIRTS, JACKETS, COATS 80N 9N SPUN FABRICS 1,000 REVS GRADE 4 FUSING ADHESION - BOND STRENGTH DIN 54310 -LARGE PARTS MENS -15N, LARGE PARTS WOMENS 8N, SMALL PARTS MENS 8N, WOMENS 5N JGPWP5 POLYESTER AND BLOUSES, SHIRTS,TOPS, DRESSES 65N 7N SPUN FABRICS 1,000 REVS GRADE 4 JGPWP6 POLYESTER AND LINING/ 65N 7N SPUN FABRICS 1,000 REVS GRADE 4 Page 12
CODE CATEGORY END USE DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING (x3 AS PER CARE LABEL) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRY CLEANING (x1) SEAM SLIPPAGE @ 6MM TEAR STRENGTH STRETCH & RECOVERY EXTENDION WOVENS TEST METHOD IS06330:2000 2A AS 2001.5.4 USE TOP LOADER COMMERCIAL DRY CLEAN ISO13936 AS2001.2.22 ISO13937-1 ASTM D 1424-83 ASTM D3107/BSENISO 14704-1@6kg JGPWN4 NYLON AND TROUSERS, SHORTS, SKIRTS, JACKETS, COATS 80N 9N JGPWN5 NYLON AND BLOUSES, SHIRTS, TOPS, DRESSES 65N 7N JGPWN6 NYLON AND LINING/ 65N 7N JGPWA4 ACETATE AND TROUSERS, SHORTS, SKIRTS, JACKETS, COATS 80N 9N JGPWA5 ACETATE AND BLOUSES, SHIRTS, TOPS, DRESSES 65N 7N JGPWA6 ACETATE AND LINING/ 65N 7N Page 13
CODE CATEGORY END USE DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING (x3 AS PER CARE LABEL) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRY CLEANING (x1) SEAM SLIPPAGE @ 6MM TEAR STRENGTH STRETCH & RECOVERY EXT MARTINDALE ABRASION PILLING SPECIFIC ADDITIONAL REQUIREMENTS WOVENS TEST METHOD IS06330:2000 2A AS 2001.5.4 USE TOP LOADER COMMERCIAL DRY CLEAN ISO13936 AS2001.2.22 ISO13937-1 ASTM D 1424-83 ASTM D3107/BSENISO ISO12947-2:1998 14704-1@ 6kg IWS 196 MARTINDALE JGPWW4 WASHABLE WOOL AND TROUSERS, SHORTS, SKIRTS, JACKETS, COATS 80N 9N 20,000 REVS 1,000 REVS GRADE 4 FUSING ADHESION - BOND STRENGTH DIN 54310 - LARGE PARTS MENS -15N, LARGE PARTS WOMENS 8N, SMALL PARTS MENS 8N, WOMENS 5N JGPWW5 WASHABLE WOOL AND BLOUSES, SHIRTS, TOPS, DRESSES 65N 7N 1,000 REVS GRADE 4 JGPWW6 WASHABLE WOOL AND LININGS 65N 7N OTHER TEST METHOD IS06330:2000 8A AS 2001.5.4 COMMERCIAL DRY CLEAN JGPL2 LEATHER/SUEDE TROUSERS, SHORTS, SKIRTS, JACKETS, COATS ASTM D4704 40N JGPPU3 PU PLEASE CHECK IF WASHABLE OR DRYCLEANABLE COATING TROUSERS, SHORTS, SKIRTS, JACKETS, COATS ASTM D751 Procedure B 36N LINING AND OTHER TO MATCH CARE OF PU SHELL Page 14
2.3 Physical Standards and Testing Guide KNITS (CUT & SEW) CODE CATEGORY END USE DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING (x3 AS PER CARE LABEL) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRY CLEANING (x1) SPIRALITY AFTER WASH/ DRY CLEAN PILLING STRETCH & RECOVERY, KNITS (CUT&SEW) TEST METHOD IS06330:2000 2A AS 2001.5.4 USE TOP LOADER COMMERCIAL DRY CLEAN ISO16322-2 PROC A 9212 ASTM D3512 [30 MINUTES] ASTM SPECIFIC D2594/BSENISO ADDITIONAL 14704-1 @3kg REQUIREMENTS JGPCSC4 COTTON AND COTTON CUT & SEW TOPS, PANTS, DRESSES, LINING & L+3% TO-5% W+3% TO-5% L+3% TO-5% W+3% TO-5% 3% IF UNDER 150GMS 5% 4 ; NON RIB ONLY RIB 200GSM & ABOVE - STRETCH 100% 8% UNDER 200GMS - 20% 15% JGPCSC5 MODAL, LYOCELL, CUPRO, VISCOSE, BAMBOO, LINEN AND CUT & SEW TOPS, PANTS, DRESSES, LINING & L+3% TO-8% W+3% TO-8% L+3% TO-5% W+3% TO-5% 5% IF UNDER 150GMS 8% 3/4 ; NON RIB ONLY RIB 200GSM & ABOVE - STRETCH 100% 8% UNDER 200GMS - 20% 15% JGPCSS2 SILK AND SILK CUT & SEW TOPS, PANTS, DRESSES, LINING & L+3%TO-5% W+3% TO-5% 3% IF UNDER 150GMS 5% 4 ; NON RIB ONLY RIB 200GSM & ABOVE - STRETCH 100% 8% UNDER 200GMS - 20% 15% JGPCSP2 POLYESTER AND CUT & SEW TOPS, PANTS, DRESSES, LINING & L+3% TO-5% W+3% TO-5% L+3% TO-5% W+3% TO-5% 3% 4 ; NON RIB ONLY RIB 200GSM & ABOVE - STRETCH 100% 8% UNDER 200GMS - 20% 15% JGPCSN2 NYLON AND CUT & SEW TOPS, PANTS, DRESSES, LINING & L+3% TO-5% W+3% TO-5% L+3% TO-5% W+3% TO-5% 3% 4 ; NON RIB ONLY RIB 200GSM & ABOVE - STRETCH 100% 8% UNDER 200GMS - 20% 15% JGPCSW2 WASHABLE WOOL AND CUT & SEW TOPS, PANTS, DRESSES, LINING & L+3%TO-5% W+3% TO-5% 3% 4 ; NON RIB ONLY RIB 200GSM & ABOVE - STRETCH 100% 8% UNDER 200GMS - 20% 15% Page 15
2.4 Physical Standards and Testing Guide FULLY FASHIONED KNITWEAR CODE CATEGORY END USE DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING (x3 AS PER CARE LABEL) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRY CLEANING (x1) SPIRALITY AFTER WASH/DRY CLEAN PILLING (TEST AS RECEIVED) STRETCH & RECOVERY, FULLY FASHIONED KNITWEAR TEST METHOD IS06330:2000 AS 2001.5.4 USE TOP LOADER COMMERCIAL DRY CLEAN ISO16322-2 PROC A 9212 ISO 12945-1:2000 ICI Pillbox @ 14,440 Revs ASTM D2594/BSENISO 14704-1 @ 3kg JGPKC3 COTTON AND COTTON KNITWEAR, LINING AND 2.5CM MAX ADULTS 1.5CM MAX CHILDRENS 3/4 STRETCH 30% 8% JGPKC4 MODAL, LYOCELL, CUPRO, VISCOSE, BAMBOO, LINEN AND KNITWEAR, LINING AND L+3% TO -8% W+3% TO -8% 3.5CM MAX ADULTS 2.0CM MAX CHILDRENS 3 STRETCH 30% 8% JGPKS2 SILK AND SILK KNITWEAR, LINING AND 2.5CM MAX ADULTS 1.5CM MAX CHILDRENS 3/4 STRETCH 30% 8% JGPKP2 POLYESTER AND KNITWEAR, LINING AND 2.5CM MAX ADULTS 1.5CM MAX CHILDRENS 3/4 STRETCH 30% 8% JGPKA2 ACRYLIC AND KNITWEAR, LINING AND 2.5CM MAX ADULTS 1.5CM MAX CHILDRENS 3/4 STRETCH 30% 8% JGPKW2 WASHABLE WOOL AND KNITWEAR, LINING AND 2.5CM MAX ADULTS 1.5CM MAX CHILDRENS 3 STRETCH 30% 8% Page 16
2.5 COLOUR FASTNESS Standards and Testing Guide All fabrics/linings/knitwear must be colourfast after the final finish has been applied e.g. resin finish, coating, and garment laundering, permanent pleating. Just Group require all apparel items produced for the Just Jeans brand are fit for purpose and do not cause customer dissatisfaction. The following points should be considered: Colour fastness to washing should follow the care wording agreed for a particular item. Cold = 30 C Warm = 40 C Hot = 60 C No colour fastness testing is required on solid white and cream fabrics, unless specifically requested. Where the face and reverse of a fabric differ in either composition or colour, both sides of the fabric must be tested. Where a fabric will not be lined in garment form dry and wet rub must be tested on the back of the fabric also. Perspiration on all women s apparel is to be tested alkaline, for men s to be tested acid. Where there will be contrast trims, fabrics, and tapes within the one garment ensure that a contact staining test is carried out with all components sewn together and tested to water at 37 C. Also ensure that a complete garment in each colourway is individually washed following the care instructions and assessed for colour change, colour bleeding/staining. Suppliers must highlight any printing, dying of finishing treatments that affect colour fastness or handle of the fabric at development stage, to allow product managers to make adequate adjustments if needed. Where pigment dyes or prints, garment dyeing or sulphur dyes are employed please ensure the Just Jeans buyers are aware. It is the suppliers responsibility to ensure that mills carry out dye recipe evaluation tests at lab dip stage. Page 17
CODE CATEGORY C.F TO WASHING C.F TO DRYCLEAN C.F TO WATER @37C C.F TO C.F TO PERSPIRATION RUBBING C.F TO C.F PRINT DURABILITY SPECIFIC ADDITIONAL REQUIREMENT COLOUR FASTNESS ISO 105 CO1-03 IS0 105-D01 AS CARE LABEL ISO 105-E01 ISO 105-E04 1S0 105 X 12 AS 2001.4.B02 ISO 105 B02 3 X CARE LABEL WASHES JGCFC1 COTTON, LINEN, VISCOSE, BAMBOO, MODAL AND COS 3/4 COS 3/4 *CONTRAST DRY RUB 4 WET RUB 3 DARK/MEDIUM SHADES 4, SHADES 3, NO OFF TONE NEGLIGIBLE LOSS OF SHADE OR PRINT NO TESTING REQUIRED: FASTNESS TO ON WHITE OR OFF-WHITE JGCFS1 SILK AND COS 3/4 COS 3/4 *CONTRAST DRY RUB 4 WET RUB 3 DARK/MEDIUM SHADES 4, SHADES 3, NO OFF TONE NEGLIGIBLE LOSS OF SHADE OR PRINT NO TESTING REQUIRED: FASTNESS TO ON WHITE OR OFF-WHITE JGCFP1 POLYESTER AND *CONTRAST DRY RUB 4 WET RUB 3 DARK/MEDIUM SHADES 4, SHADES 3, NO OFF TONE NEGLIGIBLE LOSS OF SHADE OR PRINT PEMANENT PLEATS C.F. TO HOT PRESSING ISO 105 X11 - COS 4 JGCFN1 NYLON AND *CONTRAST DRY RUB 4 WET RUB 3 DARK/MEDIUM SHADES 4, SHADES 3, NO OFF TONE - NEGLIGIBLE LOSS OR SHADE OR PRINT NO TESTING REQUIRED: FASTNESS TO ON WHITE OR OFF-WHITE JGCFA1 ACETATE AND *CONTRAST DRY RUB 4 WET RUB 3 DARK/MEDIUM SHADES 4, SHADES 3, NO OFF TONE NO TESTING REQUIRED: FASTNESS TO ON WHITE OR OFF-WHITE JGCFA2 ACRYLIC AND *CONTRAST DRY RUB 4 WET RUB 3 DARK/MEDIUM SHADES 4, SHADES 3, NO OFF TONE NO TESTING REQUIRED: FASTNESS TO ON WHITE OR OFF-WHITE JGCFW1 WASHABLE WOOL AND *CONTRAST DRY RUB 4 WET RUB 3 DARK/MEDIUM SHADES 4, SHADES 3, NO OFF TONE NO TESTING REQUIRED: FASTNESS TO ON WHITE OR OFF-WHITE Page 18
CODE CATEGORY C.F TO WASHING C.F TO DRYCLEAN C.F TO WATER @37C C.F TO C.F TO PERSPIRATION RUBBING C.F TO C.F PRINT DURABILITY SPECIFIC ADDITIONAL REQUIREMENT COLOUR FASTNESS ISO 105 CO1-03 IS0 105-D01 AS CARE LABEL ISO 105-E01 ISO 105-E04 1S0 105 X 12 AS 2001.4.21 3 X CARE LABEL WASHES JGCFP3 PIGMENT DYED DIP DYED TIE DYED COS 3 STAINING 3 DO NOT DRY CLEAN *CONTRAST DRY RUB 3/4 WET RUB 2/3 DARK/MEDIUM SHADES 4, SHADES 3, NO OFF TONE DURABILITY WASH OF GARMENT SWING TAG TO BE APPLIED JGCFP4 JGCFI1 JGCFD1 PIGMENT PRINTED INDIGO DENIM DRY CLEAN ONLY GARMENTS COS 3 STAINING 3 DO NOT DRY CLEAN *CONTRAST *CONTRAST DRY RUB 3/4 WET RUB 2/3 DARK/RAW DRY RUB 3 WET RUB 2; MEDIUM/ DRY RUB 4 WET RUB 3 DRY RUB 4 WET RUB 3 DARK/MEDIUM SHADES 4, SHADES 3, NO OFF TONE DARK/MEDIUM SHADES 4, SHADES 3, NO OFF TONE COS 3 SWING TAG TO BE APPLIED NEGLIGIBLE LOSS OR SHADE OR PRINT TO BE TESTED AFTER GARMENT PROCESSING SWING TAG TO BE APPLIED TO DARK DENIM JGCFL1 LEATHER & SUEDE STAINING 3/4 USE ISO 11640 DRY RUB 4 WET RUB 3 DARK/MEDIUM SHADES 4, SHADES 3, NO OFF TONE JGCFPU1 PU PLEASE CHECK IF WASHABLE OR DRYCLEANABLE COATING DARK/MEDIUM SHADES 4, SHADES 3, NO OFF TONE JGCFCL1 CARE LABELS, SEWN IN LABELS, PRINTED BACK NECK LABELS *CONTRAST DRY RUB 4 WET RUB 3 NEGLIGIBLE LOSS OR SHADE OR PRINT Page 19
2.6 GARMENT ACCESSORY Standards and Testing Guide CODE CATEGORY END USE WASHING STABILITY (x3 AS PER CARE LABEL) DRY CLEAN STABILITY (x1) PULL TEST, STRENGTH OF ATTACHMENT PULL TEST TOP STOP STRENGTH SECURITY OF SEPARATE ELEMENTS NICKEL RELEASE SPECIFIC ADDITIONAL REQUIREMENTS GARMENT ACCESSOIRIES IS06330:2000 TEST METHOD USE TOP LOADER COMMERCIAL DRY CLEAN ISO 8124 PART 1 AS 2332 APPENDIX A (see below Table) AS 2332 APPENDIX C (see below Table) AS2332 APPENDIX J APPENDIX I (see below Table) EN 1811(NON COATED) EN12472/EN1811 NON COATED JGPBS1 ALL ATTACHMENT OF BUTTONS, SNAPS, CORDS 70N Less than 0.5µ.CM/week CHILDRENSWEAR BITE TEST US CONSUMER 1500.5.1 SAFETY CORDS, DRAWSTRINGS, SASHES - BS 14682 JGPBZ1 SGH ZIPPERS [IF NOT PURCHASED FROM JG PREFERRED SUPPLIERS] REFER TO STANDARD CHART BELOW REFER TO STANDARD CHART BELOW REFER TO STANDARD CHART BELOW Less than 0.5µ.CM/week CHILDRENSWEAR TOXICITY OF COATED ACCESSORIES AS/NZS 1S0 8124 PART 3 APPENDICES TO ZIPPER TESTING REQUIREMENTS ZIPPER CODES [FIGURES are in NEWTON] UL L M MH H APPENDIX A 70 80 200 250 300 APPENDIX C 50 70 90 110 130 APPENDIX I - 25 40 55 - APPENDIX J - 25 40 55 - Page 20
APPENDIX A FABRIC SPECIFICATION SHEET The form is available as an Excel file fill in as appropriate. BRAND FABRIC SPECIFICATION SHEET SUPPLIER LINE NUMBER WOVEN FABRIC KNITTED FABRIC SUPPLIER'S REFERENCE FINISHED COMPOSITION YARNS WARP COUNT COMPOSITION WEFT COUNT COMPOSITION GREIGE SOURCE CONSTRUCTION WEAVE ENDS / CM PICKS / CM WEIGHT / GSM/M2 MINIMUM USEABLE WIDTH FINISH REMARKS PIECE DYED YARN DYED FINISHED DESCRIPTION GREIGE FIBRE DYED PRINTED SWATCH PREPARED BY DATE Page 21
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APPENDIX B IN-HOUSE TEST REPORT FORM This form is available as an excel file. IN-HOUSE GARMENT OR COMPONENT TEST REPORT BRAND 0 DESCRIPTION 0 LINE NUMBER 0 SUPPLIER 0 TEST DONE BY COMPOSITION - MAIN SHELL DATE DOMESTIC TOP LOADER HAND WASH NORMAL CYCLE GENTLE CYCLE COMPOSITON - MAIN TRIM NUMBER OF WASHES WATER TEMPERATURE MILD DETERGENT WOOL DETERGENT COMPOSITION - LINING STANDARD DETERGENT SOFTENER ADDED TUMBLE DRY LOW LINE DRY CARE WORDING * DRY FLAT COMMERCIAL DRY CLEAN *COPY OVER APPROVED CARE WORDING SEE TAB NAMED 'CARE LABEL' ADD IMAGE HERE OR ATTACH SPECIMEN RESULT AND COMMENTS SAMPLE SIZE APPROVED BY DATE Page 23
APPENDIX C TESTING LABORATORIES The Just Group requires testing to be carried out by reputable third party laboratories, the preferred testing houses are listed below. If none of these are accessible or a supplier wishes to propose an alternative testing facility for accreditation by the Just Group, please contact the QA Manager and provide full details for consideration by Just Group. Preferred laboratories: Intertek Testing Services website: http://www.intertek.com (Consumer Goods) Key contacts: China: Zack Shi (zack.shi@intertek.com) location is Shanghai Hong Kong: Bertha To (bertha.to@intertek.com) India: Arasu Ma (arasu.ma@intertek.com) location is Tirupur Bangladesh: Afzal Hussain (afzal.hussain@intertek.com) Korea: KS Kim (ks.kim@intertek.com) Melbourne: Faith Matthew (faith.mathew@intertek.com) SGS Testing Services website: http://www.sgs.com/en/office-directory.aspx Key contacts: China: Ivy Peng (ivy.peng@sgs.com) location is Shanghai Hong Kong: Keith Chan (keith.chan@sgs.com) India: Mohit Kumar (MohitKumar.saluja@sgs.com) Bangladesh: Monirujjaman Talukder (monir.talukder@sgs.com) Melbourne: Ray Hartland (ray.hartland@sgs.com) The Just Group further accepts test carried out by: FITI Testing & Research Institute - Korea STR Specialized Technology Resources Japan Synthetic Textile Inspection Institute Foundation (JSTIIF) Korean Textile Inspection & Testing Institute (KOTITI) Asia Inspection CTI Centre Testing International In Australia the Just Group accepts test carried out by: Royal Melbourne Institute of Textiles (RMIT) Textile Testing Services Australian Wool Testing Authority Graham Walters & Associates TQRTM Qualspec Page 24
REFERENCE DOCUMENTS AUSTRALIAN STANDARDS AS/NZS 1957:1998 Textiles Care labelling AS/NZS 2392:1999 Textiles Labelling of clothing, household textiles and furnishings AS/NZS 2450:1994 Textiles Natural and man-made fibres Generic names AS/NZS 2621:1998 Textiles Guide to the selection of correct care labelling instructions from AS/NZS 1957 AS/NZS 2622:1996 Textile products Fibre content labelling Australian Standards are available from SAI Global; standards can be purchased as downloadable file in PDF format, or as a hard copy. Phone: 131 242 - Outside Australia +61 (0)2 8206 6010 Website: www.saiglobal.com AUSTRALIAN COMPETITION & CONSUMER COMMISSION (ACCC) www.accc.gov.au AUSTRALIAN CUSTOMS AND BORDER PROTECTION SERVICE Prohibited and restricted imports http://www.customs.gov.au/site/page4369.asp AUSTRALIAN QUARANTINE AND INSPECTION SERVICE http://www.daff.gov.au/aqis ICON is AQIS's import conditions database: www.aqis.gov.au/icon32/asp/ex_querycontent.asp NEW ZEALAND CUSTOMS SERVICE http://www.customs.govt.nz/pages/default.aspx Fact Sheet 28 Advice on importing goods into New Zealand Published by Page 25