Chemistry and Technology of the Cosmetics and Toiletries Industry Edited by D.F. WILLIAMS Environment and Quality Assurance Manager Givaudan-Roure UK Surrey UK and W.H. SCHMITT Vice President, R&D Chesebrough Ponds, Inc Connecticut USA BLACKIE ACADEMIC & PROFESSIONAL An Imprint of Chapman & Hall London Glasgow New York Tokyo Melbourne Madras
Contents 1 Raw materials E. SPIESS 1.1 1ntroduction 1.2 ] Jasic surfactants.2.1 Alkyl ether sulfates 1.2.2 Alkyl sulfates 1.2.3 a-olefin sulfonates.2.4 Other basic surfactants 1.3 Vfild anionic surfactants 1.3.1.3.2.3.3.3.4.3.5.3.6 1.4,\mphoteric surfactants Sulfosuccinates Cocoyl isethionates Acyl amides Alkyl ether carboxylates Magnesium surfactants Alkyl phosphates.4.1.4.2 1.4.3.4.4 1.5 1Son-ionic surfactants.5.1.5.2 1.6! Shampoo additives Alkyl betaines Alkylamido betaines Acylamphoglycinates and acylamphapropionates Amine oxides Ethoxylated products Alkyl polyglycosides.6.1.6.2.6.3.6.4 1.7 < ^ationic surfactants.7.1.7.2.7.3.7.4.7.5 1.8 ( 3il components.8.1.8.2.8.3 1.9 ' Waxes.9.1.9.2 1.10 ijilicom; oils 1.11 ("ream.11.1.11.2.11.3 Thickeners Foam stabilizers Pearlescent agents Conditioning agents Monoalkyl quaternaries Dialkyl quaternaries Trialkyl quaternaries Benzyl quaternaries Ethoxylated quaternaries Mineral oil Natural oils Synthetic oils Natural waxes Synthetic waxes bases Fatty alcohols Polyol esters Fatty acids 9 10 10 11 11 12 12 14 14 14 15 16 16 17 17 18 18 19 19 20 20 20 21 24 24 24 25 25 25 26 26
CONTENTS 1.12 Oil-in-water (O/W) emulsifiers 27 1.12.1 Anionic O/W emulsifiers 27 1.12.2 Cationic O/W emulsifiers 27 1.12.3 Non-ionic O/W emulsifiers 27 1.13 Water-in-oil (W/O) emulsifiers 28 1.13.1 Single W/O emulsifiers 28 1.13.2 Lanolin derivatives 29 1.13.3 Absorption bases 29 1.13.4 W/O stabilizers 29 1.14 Humectants 29 1.15 Aerosol propellants 30 1.15.1 Hydrocarbons 30 1.15.2 Dimethylether 30 References 30 Hair-care products J.J. ISHIPP 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 2.5 2.6 2.7 2.8 2.9 2.10 2.11 2.12 2.13 Hair: structure and chemistry 2.2.1 Structure of hair keratin Shampoos 2.3.1 2.3.2 2.3.3 2.3.4 2.3.5 2.3.6 2.3.7 2.3.8 Conditioners 2.4.1 2.4.2 2.4.3 2.4.4 2.4.5 2.4.6 2.4.7 2.4.8 2.4.9 2.4.10 2.4.11 2.4.12 2.4.13 2.4.14 Styling 2.5.1 Setting Detergents Thickeners and foam stabilisers Perfumes Preservatives Opacifiers and pearlisers Conditioning agents Colours and colour fading Other additives Cationic surfactants Cationic polymers and other active ingredients Bodying agents Auxiliary emulsifiers Oil components Thickeners Perfumes Preservatives Colours Manufacture Clear conditioners Hair thickeners Leave-on conditioners 'Hot oils', tonics and other conditioners aids Hairsprays lotions Other sstyling aids in spray form Hair gels Styling creams and glazes Hair oils/brilliantines/pomades/styling waxes Hair creams Permanent waving 2.12.1 Neutralisation Bleaches 32 32 33 34 35 36 41 45 45 46 48 51 52 54 56 59 62 62 62 62 63 63 63 64 64 64 66 66 68 68 72 73 75 77 78 79 80 84 85
CONTENTS XI 2.14 Hair dyes 86 2.14.1 Temporary dyes 86 2.14.2 Semi-permanent colourants 87 2.14.3 Permanent hair dyes 89 2.14.4 Other hair dyes 92 2.14.5 Dye removers 93 2.15 Product evaluation and testing 93 2.15.1 Stability testing 94 2.15.2 Claims justification 94 2.15.3 Product safety 94 2.16 Summary 95 References 95 Skin-care products 99 W.H. SCHMITT 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 3.5 3.6 Anatomy and physiology of the skin 3.2.1 Epidermis 3.2.2 Dermis Test methods 3.3.1 Efficacy testing Formulation 3.4.1 Formula information 3.4.2 Consumer testing 3.4.3 Stability testing 3.4.4 Microbiological testing 3.4.5 Manufacturing trials 3.4.6 Safety testing 3.4.7 Skin c:leansers 3.5.1 3.5.2 3.5.3 3.5.4 3.5.5 3.5.6 3.5.7 3.5.8 Moisturizers 3.6.1 3.6.2 3.6.3 3.6.4 3.6.5 Regulatory and environmental requirements Anhydrous oily cleansers Water-in-oil emulsions: cold creams Oil-in-water emulsions: cleansing milks Fatted mild syndet foaming bars and cleansers Super fatted bar soaps Astringents/toners Bar soaps Particulate scrubs All-purpose creams Hand and body lotions Hand and body creams Facial moisturizer lotions Facial moisturizer creams: night creams 3.7 Anti-ageing products 3.8 Sunscreen products 3.8.1 3.8.2 3.8.3 3.8.4 3.9 Acne 3.9.1 3.9.2 3.9.3 3.9.4 References Solar radiation Sunscreen chemicals Testing Sunscreen formulations Sebaceous gland Acne nomenclature Acne grades Treatment 99 99 101 101 103 104 107 107 108 109 110 110 111 111 112 113 113 114 115 116 116 117 117 118 119 120 121 121 122 123 125 125 127 130 131 135 136 136 137 137 138
Xll CONTENTS 4 Color cosmetics 142 J. CUNNINGHAM 4.1 142 4.2 Lip color 142 4.2.1 Lipsticks 142 4.2.2 Lip glosses 147 4.2.3 Lip liners 148 4.3 Nail polish 149 4.3.1 Consumer expectations 149 4.3.2 Formulation 150 4.3.3 Manufacture 152 4.4 Face make-up 153 4.4.1 Consumer expectations 153 4.4.2 Face powders 154 4.4.3 Liquid foundations 157 4.4.4 Blushers 159 4.5 Eye make-up 160 4.5.1 Eyeshadow 160 4.5.2 Mascara 164 4.5.3 Eyeliners 166 4.6 Color coating 169 4.7 General considerations 169 Further reading 170 Baby care 171 J. KNOWLTON 5.1 171 5.2 Specific basic requirements for baby products 171 5.3 Product types and their presentation 172 5.3.1 Baby powders 172 5.3.2 Lotions and creams 173 5.3.3 Soaps 175 5.3.4 Hair products 175 5.3.5 Bath products 177 5.3.6 Moussed products 177 5.3.7 Wipes and tissues 178 5.3.8 Oils 178 5.3.9 Perfumes and colognes 179 5.4 Raw materials for baby products 180 5.5 Developmental pathways 181 5.5.1 Formulation development 181 5.5.2 Practical requirements 181 5.6 Product evaluation 181 5.6.1 Laboratory evaluation 181 5.6.2 Mother and baby panels 182 5.6.3 Consumer research 182 5.7 Product safety requirement 183 5.8 Product preservation 183 5.9 Product stability 184 5.10 Manufacture and quality control 185 5.10.1 Manufacture 185 5.10.2 Quality control 186 Reference 186 Further reading 186
CONTENTS Xlll Ethnic products 187 J.L. CHESTER 6.1 187 6.2 Hair structures 187 6.3 Skin characteristics 188 6.4 Hair products 189 6.4.1 Relaxing and restyling products 189 6.4.2 Hair pomades and grooming aids 201 6.5 Skin products 203 6.5.1 Raw material selection factors for consideration 203 6.5.2 Emulsification systems 205 6.6 General practical considerations 208 Further reading 209 7 Dental products M. PADER 210 7.1 7.2 7.3 7.4 7.5 7.6 7.7 The human dentition and its environment 7.2.1 Teeth and associated oral structures 7.2.2 Saliva and crevicular fluid Oral isecretions and conditions 7.3.1 Role of oral hygiene 7.3.2 Dental pellicle 7.3.3 Dental plaque 7.3.4 Dental calculus (tartar) 7.3.5 Periodontal diseases 7.3.6 Dental stain 7.3.7 Dental hypersensitivity 7.3.8 Oral malodor The toothbrush and other mechanical aids 7.4.1 7.4.2 7.4.3 7.4.4 7.4.5 Activi 7.5.1 7.5.2 7.5.3 7.5.4 7.5.5 Toothbrush function Toothbrush construction and design Toothbrush efficacy Toothbrush safety Other mechanical aids : agents Dentifrices 7.6.1 7.6.2 7.6.3 7.6.4 7.6.5 7.6.6 7.6.7 7.6.8 Oral 7.7.1 7.7.2 7.7.3 7.7.4 Fluoride Anti-plaque/anti-gingivitis agents Anti-calculus agents Desensitizing dentifrices Functions General principles Basic dentifrice ingredients Flavor and cosmetic attributes Formulation principles Efficacy of dentifrice as a dosage form Dentifrice manufacture Dentifrice packaging rinses Function Dosage forms and formulations Pre-brushing dental rinse Manufacture and packaging 210 212 212 213 214 214 214 215 217 218 220 221 221 222 222 223 223 224 224 224 224 225 226 230 230 231 231 232 234 245 245 247 248 249 250 250 251 253 253
CONTENTS 7.8 Specialty products 253 7.8.1 Tooth whiteners 253 7.8.2 Products for the edentulous 254 References 255 8 Perfumery A. DALLIMORE 8.1 8.2 8.3 8.4 8.5 8.6 8.7 8.8 8.9 8.10 8.11 8.12 8.13 Fragrance a definition Role of fragrance Perfumery raw materials 8.4.1 Natural perfumery raw materials 8.4.2 Synthetic perfumery raw materials (aroma chemicals) Development of a fragrance 8.5.1 The brief 8.5.2 The creative process 8.5.3 Evaluation and marketing of the new creation The current market in fine fragrance 8.6.1 The trickle-down effect Odour types Technical performance of perfumes Stability testing Compounding Quality control Special additives Glossary of odour descriptors Further reading 258 258 258 258 259 259 260 262 262 264 266 267 268 268 268 271 271 272 273 273 274 Personal hygiene products 275 M.J. WILLCOX 9.1 9.2 9.3 Soap and other solid bathing products 9.2.1 Toilet soaps 9.2.2 Shaving soaps 9.2.3 Transparent/translucent soaps 9.2.4 Synthetic detergent/combination bars 9.2.5 Bath salts/bath crystals/bath cubes Liquid bathing and showering products 9.3.1 Foam baths 9.3.2 Bath oils 9.3.3 Shower gels 9.3.4 After-bath and after-shower conditioners 9.4 9.4.1 9.4.2 9.4.3 9.4.4 References Antiperspirants and deodorants Antiperspirants Deodorants Performance testing Chemicals suppliers 275 275 275 280 280 283 283 285 285 289 292 293 293 293 298 299 300 300 10 Quality, safety and legislation 302 J. DUPUIS and W. DUPUY 10.1 to quality 302 10.2 Definition of quality 302 10.3 Inspection 303
10.4 10.5 10.6 10.7 10.8 10.9 Prevention Total ijuality 10.5.1 10.5.2 10.5.3 10.5.4 10.5.5 Product design Quality assurance Manufacturing processes and technology Cost of quality Human and organisational aspects The new thinking Quality standards and guides 10.7.1 Links between ISO 9000 and total quality Legislation 10.8.1 10.8.2 10.8.3 10.8.4 10.8.5 10.8.6 10.8.7 Historical development Need for regulation Self-regulation Regulations in the US Regulations in Japan Regulations in Europe Regulations in other countries General considerations 10.9.1 10.9.2 10.9.3 10.9.4 References Further reading CONTENTS Environmental impact Animal protection and rights Definition as cosmetic or drug Product liability XV 304 305 307 309 309 310 310 312 313 313 314 314 315 315 316 317 318 320 320 320 321 321 321 322 322 Appendices 323 Appendix I List of suppliers 323 Appendix II Useful addresses 325 Index 327