AW17
AW17 / Camofleur I would not have believed I could have been so deceived. King George V on visiting the Dazzle Section at The Royal Academy of Arts, 1917. Our AW17 Camofleur collection starts its surreptitious journey just a short step from Savile Row in a covert corner of the neighbouring Royal Academy of Arts, where it squints, scratches its head and stands in awe before the astonishing, jarringly geometric work of camofleur Norman Wilkinson s top-secret Dazzle Section. Winning wonk Wilkinson worked as an unassuming seascape artist and illustrator before he was struck by razzle dazzle, his bold, acutely conspicuous form of anti-camouflage, the cunning if chancy concept of which was to confuse and confound more than conceal. His radical ruse was used to protect Allied shipping and went on to influence a raft of artists, not least those of the intriguingly illusionary Op Art movement of the Sixties and early Seventies, who found a welcome home for their work hard by Wilkinson s erstwhile workstation at the Royal Academy in the galleries of Cork Street. This is a sharp, standout collection that celebrates an original, buoyantly befuddling British innovation and the extraordinary art it impacted on. Base colours of soft grey, charcoal, taupe, caramel, chocolate and mushroom, pointedly punctured by accents of ochre, orange, burgundy and lucid blues, sweep through tailoring and knitwear like surely shrouded ships on a quiescent sea. Graphic, zigzagging Op Art prints give a pressing presence to big cable and cashmere knits, cashmere and silk scarves and silk pocket squares. Lightweight soft flannel lends warmth to relaxed, double-breasted tailoring and casualwear with velvet and corduroy adding depth and texture. Oversize herringbone overcoats clearly echo the strong lines of razzle dazzle design. Come and join us on an eye-opening journey of optical obfuscation in the company of a noncomformist camofleur par excellence.
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01 OCHRE NEEDLE CORDUROY SUIT SJ37L/T116/26552 BROWN CROSS HATCH SHIRT SH067/26822 TAN DIAGONAL RODS TIE TIE2/B5856 GOLD OPTICAL DIAMOND SILK SQUARE SQS/271 02 NAVY DARK TWILL DB COAT C18/26522 SULPHUR/SMOKE 10-PLY GEELONG WOOL PULLOVER KN387/01 OLIVE BROWN CAVALRY TWILL TROUSERS T116 /26520 03 TAN & ORANGE ZIGZAG CASHMERE INTARSIA CREW NECK KN364/07 CHOCOLATE SHEARLING PEA COAT RJ192S/26575 OCHRE NEEDLECORD TROUSERS T116/26552 GOLD OPTICAL DIAMOND SILK SQUARE SQS/271 04 OCHRE CLASSIC BENGAL SHIRT SH059/26841 OCHRE FLANNEL DB SUIT SJ45/T120/26562 OLD GOLD LATTICE TIE TIE2/B5923 BEIGE COLOUR WAVES SQS/286 09 CHARCOAL & BISCUIT BROKEN CHECK J43/26533 TAUPE NATURAL STRETCH FLANNEL TROUSERS T116/26509 GREY FINE FLANNEL TWILL SH059/26806 BRONZE/BURGUNDY COLOURED SHARDS TIE TIE2/B5803 BEIGE COLOUR WAVES SILK SQUARE SQS/286 10 TAUPE PLAIN WEAVE SUIT J37/T666/26501 IVORY LUXURY HERRINGBONE SHIRT SH067/26831 DEEP ORANGE TONAL STRIPE TIE2/B5884 ORANGE/GREY TONAL ZIGZAG SCARF SC023/84 BROWN TONAL ZIGZAG SILK SQUARE SQS/267 11 MILITAIRE CALF-SKIN LEATHER ZIP BOMBER RJ194S/26577 SULPHUR V-INSERT CREW PULLOVER KN384/02 BLUE TONAL ZIGZAG SILK SQUARE SQS/268 KHAKI COTTON TWILL CHINOS T446S/25627 12 SOFT GREY / TAN MOTTLE BOUCLE JACKET J37/26545 BROWN / PINK OXFORD MELANGE SHIRT SH059/26834 GREIGE MELANGE T666/26523 RUST/PLUM COLOURED SHARDS TIE2/B5802 SAND STONE LUXURY DAZZLE SCARF SC076/01 05 OLIVE/RED MOTTLED CHECK ZIP-FRONT BOMBER RJ182Q/26563 OCHRE SWISS POPLIN WITH ZIGZAG EMBROIDERY SH062/26801 OLIVE BROWN CAVALRY TWILL TROUSERS T116/26520 06 KHAKI HERITAGE MELTON FIELD JACKET RJ180Q/26566 DISRUPTED ZIGZAG PRINT SHIRT SH059/26878 KHAKI COTTON TWILL CHINOS T446S/25627 07 PEAT/BLUE MOTTLED J37/26546 BLUE/RUST EYE SPOT SHIRT SH059/26830 CHARCOAL/RED BLURRED SPOT TROUSERS T116/26529 MINT OMBRE BLOCKS SQS/295 PEAT RIBBON STEPS TIE TIE2/B5899 08 RUBBERISED COTTON HOODED BUTTON BOMBER RJ190/ TAUPE OCHRE FINE MERINO ROLL NECK KN382/06 NAVY COTTON TWILL CHINOS T446S/25628 DARK BROWN PUNCHED LEATHER BELT B05/02 INK WOOL EMBROIDERED SCARF SC080/01 13 IVORY/BLACK/PINK P.O.W. WITH PINK OVER CHECK SJ46/T120/26540 TAN HAIRLINE STRIPE SHIRT SH067/26812 DEEP PINK RADAR TIE2/B5867 SILVER BLUE FADING SQUARES SILK SQUARE SQS/289 14 GREY NEEDLE CORDUROY SUIT J37/T666/26551 WINE FINE MERINO ROLL NECK KN382/05 RED OPTICAL DIAMOND SILK SQUARE SQS/274 15 INK/CLARET MIX MARK CHUNKY RIB ZIP JACKET KN386/01 NAVY LUXURY JERSEY SH059/26851 NAVY COTTON TWILL CHINOS T446S/25628 NAVY FADING SQUARES SILK SQUARE SQS/291 BROWN PUNCHED LEATHER BELT B05/02 16 BLUE/NAVY BLURRED SPOT SJ20/T116/26530 LIGHT BLUE OPTIC DOTS SH059/26817 SKY BLUE/TAN FADING CHEVRONS SILK SQUARE SQS/278 DARK BLUE ZIGZAG TIE2/B5934
17 INK CHUNKY WAFFLE KNIT BOMBER JACKET KN385/02 JEAN 2-PLY CREW KNIT KN364/08 CREW KNIT BLUE MELANGE TROUSERS T666/26524 BLUE/NAVY AUTUMN CHEVRONS PRINTED SCARF SC023/82 18 SEA BLUE LUXURY SLUBBED BLEND J37/26536 BLUE FINE FLANNEL TWILL SH059/26807 BLUE MELANGE TROUSERS T666/26524 GREEN LINEAR SQUARES SILK SQUARE SQS/279 PEACOCK BLUE DIAGONAL RODS TIE TIE2/B5849 19 AIRFORCE CAVALRY TWILL SUIT SJ20/T116/26519 BLUE DIAGONAL STEP SHIRT SH059/26816 NAVY ZIP THROUGH CARDIGAN KN383/01 DEEP SKY TONAL VECTORS TIE2/B5804 BLUE OPTICAL DIAMOND SILK SQUARE SQS/273 20 MIDNIGHT FINE VELBET ZIP BOMBER RJ182Q/26555 BLACK OPTIC CUBES SHIRT SH059/26821 NAVY SUBTLE SLUBBED T116/26547 BLACK/WHITE DAZZLE CAMO PRINTED SCARF SC023/88 1 4 21 BLACK/GREY STRONG CHEVRON DB COAT C18/26550 GREY FINE PIQUET SH059/26856 OLIVE BROWN CAVALRY TWILL T116/26520 TAN DIAGONAL BARS TIE TIE2/B5897 GREEN FADING SQUARES SILK SQUARE SQS/288 22 RAVEN SHEARLING BLOUSON RJ193S/26576 CHARCOAL DARK OXFORD SHIRT SH067/26811 BLACK PLAIN SHANTUNG SILK T115/26570 SILVER GREY TRIPPY CHECK TIE2/B5870 23 MOLE FINE VELVET EVENING SUIT SJ15/T115/26556 BLUE/TAN HOPSACK MELANGE SH067/26837 BLACK GROS GRAIN BOW TIE BT02-01 RED TONAL ZIGZAG SILK SQUARE SQS/270 ORANGE/GREY TONAL ZIGZAG PRINTED SCARF SC023/384 24 BLACK BLOACK JACQUARD EVENING SUIT SJ15/T115E/26542 WHITE FINE PIQUET SHIRT SH059/26854 NAVY SPEARHEADS TIE2/B5816 BLACK/WHITE DAZZLE CAMO PRINTED SCARF SC023/88 8 3
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