THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY INNOVATION & COMMUNICATION Raniero De Stasio Scientific and Regulatory Affairs Director L Oreal Europe
OUR MISSION TO OFFER WOMEN AND MEN THE WORLD OVER THE BEST QUALITY, MOST EFFECTIVE, SAFEST COSMETICS AND THEREBY SATISFY ALL THEIR BEAUTY NEEDS AND DESIRES IN ALL THEIR INFINITE DIVERSITY.
> 100 YEARS RESEARCH L OREAL
THE L OREAL GROUP RESEARCH A DRIVING FORCE BEHIND INNOVATION A KEY FOR GROWTH L OREAL
L OREAL RESEARCH KEY FIGURES 2009 609 Millions Euros 3313 PEOPLE 674 PATENTS 100 COLLABORATIONS 80 PUBLICATIONS L OREAL
RESEARCH & EVALUATION CENTERS 18 RESEARCH CENTERS 13 EVALUATION CENTERS
EFFICACY EVALUATION PROCESS In vitro Cell culture, reconstructed skin In vivo Biological clinical proof C t t Consumer tests multicentric
Typical numbers of people exposed to a product in research and marketing studies prior to launch = the body of evidence 1000 900 800 700 600 500 400 people 300 200 100 0 Discovery Form. Dev Mkt tst Consmr Tsts Proof of Concept (in vitro) Clinical trials Controlled Subjective Tests Subjective tests
BREAKTHROUGH INNOVATION & COMMUNICATION NANOSOMES MEXORYL SX XL AMINEXIL CERAMIDE R PROXYLANE SKINOMICS STEM CELLS Delivery vectors UVA photostabe sun filter Anti hair loss The intercellular glue Anti-ageing Screening tool Reactivating Youth Proteins Pampering Stem Cells to reactivate youth
Here comes the science bit concentrate! (Jennifer Aniston 1997)
RESEARCH CORE ACTIVITIES SKIN CARE APPLIED RESEARCH HAIR CARE ADVANCED RESEARCH APPLIED RESEARCH MAKE UP L OREAL
SKIN
SKIN A tissue with mechanical properties
SKIN A living organ able to tan, to age and that we can reconstruct in vitro
1975 FIRST IN VITRO MODEL KERATINOCYTES OVER 3T3 FIBROBLASTS 1979 FIRST TRUE SKIN IN A PETRI DISH INCLUDING HORNY LAYER (DED IDEA) 1986 MELANOCYTES ADDED 1992 SKIN TISSUE GROWTH IN VITRO 1997 EPISKIN ACQUISITION FROM IMEDEX 1998 ECVAM VALIDATON FOR SKIN CORROSION 2006 SKINETHIC ACQUISITION 2007 ECVAM VALIDATION FOR SKIN IRRITATION EPISKIN IN VITRO RECONSTITUTED SKIN FROM TISSUE ENGINEERING L OREAL
Film Episkin
INNOVATION in SKIN CARE 10 years RESEARCH in GENOMICS, PROTEOMICS DISCOVERY : GENE EXPRESSION Young subjects Aged subjects Transcriptomic SIGNATURE Proteic SIGNATURE ANSWER after a stress
INNOVATION in SKIN CARE > NEW TARGETS for ACTIVE INGREDIENTS SCREENING > NEW STRATEGIES S to PREVENT, REPAIR, CORRECT PRESERVE SKIN YOUTH BIOLOGICAL AGE < CHRONOLOGICAL AGE
A NOVEL ANTI-AGEING «ENGINE»: PRO-XYLANE A«GREEN CHEMISTRY»ACTIVE L OREAL
PRO-XYLANE DISCOVERY TARGETING THE EXTRACELLULAR MATRIX OF THE DERMIS Skin structure L OREAL
PRO-XYLANE AN ECOFRIENDLY INGREDIENT GREEN CHEMISTRY DISCOVERY L OREAL
PRO-XYLANE L OREAL
Derma Genesis TV Advert 2007
PHOTOSTABLE SUN FILTERS A difficult idea to communicate to consumers 2006 - EU labelling recommendation: photostability one of the key properties 2007 Garnier Ambre Solaire TV Campaign
Garnier Ambre Solaire 2007
HAIR
HAIR A fibre with mechanical properties A living organ
INNOVATION in HAIR COLOUR REINVENTING HAIR DYES Without ODOUR Without t INCONVENIENCE Without COMPROMISING on results A TECHNOLOGICAL CHALLENGE A SOLUTION : O.D.S. A KEY : THE SCIENCE OF EMULSIONS
INNOVATION in HAIR COLOUR Oil Delivery System OIL in WATER WATER in OIL INVERSING PROPORTIONS OF WATER AND OIL PHASES => EFFICACY OF HAIR DYES
COLOUR BIOLOGICAL colour CHEMICAL colour: dyes, pigments STRUCTURAL colour: colour without pigments
INNOVATION in COLOUR TODA HYBRID PIGMENTS WHAT YOU SEE IS WHAT YOU GET! Shu Uemura L OREAL
INNOVATION in MAKE UP Horny layer Epidermis Upper dermis Deep dermis Light / Matter Interaction Toda Pigments
How does the future of beauty look like?
CONCLUSIONS SCIENCE WORKS WELL IN COMMUNICATIONS WE LIKE TO FIND THE FUSION OF POETRY & SCIENCE TO COMMUNICATE SCIENCE TO OUR CONSUMERS WE PUSH THE BOUNDARY OF SCIENTIFIC COMMUNICATIONS ON EACH KEY INNOVATION WE CREATE YOU CAN EXPECT MORE INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS (AND COMMUNICATIONS) FROM L OREAL FOR THE FUTURE!
THANK YOU! ANY QUESTIONS?