INVESTIGATION OF CONNECTIONS BETWEEN SILHOUETTES AND COLORS IN FASHION DESIGN

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UDK: 7.05 COBISS.SR-ID 216027148 Review Article INVESTIGATION OF CONNECTIONS BETWEEN SILHOUETTES AND COLORS IN FASHION DESIGN Julieta Ilieva Faculty of Technics and Technologies, Trakia University, Bulgaria Graf Ignatiev 38, 8600 Yambol, Bulgaria Abstract: An investigation of connection between silhouettes and colors according to the consumer preferences is presented in the paper. The connections between silhouettes and colors are investigated with the help of the statistical method of Correspondence Analysis. The results of investigation in combination with the latest fashion trends and colors and forms associations can be used for successful fashion design of new models of clothing. Key words: fashion design, colors, silhouettes, correspondence analysis. ARTICLE INFO Article history: Recived 05. mar. 2015. Recived in revised form 25. mar. 2015 Accepted 05. may. 2015. Available online 04. jul. 2015. 1. INTRODUCTION When a fashion designer creates a new model of garment, the designer has to combine his or her idea with the latest fashion trends and the consumer preferences. The silhouette and color are the most visible features of clothing. The paper presents an investigation of connection between silhouettes and colors according to the consumer preferences. 2. METOD USED The investigation is made with the help of the statistical method of Correspondence Analysis. [3] Correspondence Analysis is a descriptive/ exploratory technique designed to analyze simple two-way and multi-way tables containing some measures of correspondence between the rows and columns. The results provide information which is similar in nature to those produced by Factor Analysis techniques, and they allow one to explore the structure of categorical variables included in the table. The most common kind of table of this type is the two-way frequency cross tabulation table. [2] 3. INVESTIGATION The investigation is made about the ladies clothing, because the ladies garments included the full variety of silhouettes and colors. The ladies dresses in the 12 th basic silhouettes: close fitted, fitted, semi fitted, rectangular, Y, Y turned, X, U turned under the waist, O under the waist, A, O, and V [4] are colored in the 6 th basic colors: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and purple [1]. In this investigation the system with six basic colors is preferred to the most popular system with seven basic colors (red, orange, yellow, green, cyan blue, indigo blue, purple), because the only one blue included in the 6 th color system is more identified by consumers. The 12 th silhouettes and the 6 th colors are presented in picture 1. The full number of their combinations, included in the study, is 72. 18 Vol 4/No.1/2015

The investigation is made on the base inquire with women consumers: working women and female students. Because sometimes the ladies conform their outfit to their partners preferences, the study includes inquire with working men and male students too. Tables 1, 2, 3, and 4 present the frequencies of coincidence between the silhouettes and colors according to preferences of working women, female students, working men, and male students. The results of Correspondence Analysis or levels of connections between the silhouettes and colors according to preferences of working women, female students, working men, and male students are presented in figures 1, 2, 3, and 4. Close Fitted Fitted Semifitted Rectangular Y Y turned X U turned under waist Vol 4/No.1/2015 19

O under waist A O V Picture 1. Basic silhouettes and basic colors Table 1. The frequencies of coincidence between the silhouettes and colors according to preferences of working women Red Orange Yellow Green Blue Purple Total Close Fitted 7 1 0 8 7 10 33 Fitted 9 0 2 3 9 3 26 Semifitted 11 7 0 2 7 6 33 Rectangular 6 4 3 5 11 3 32 V 3 4 4 4 5 6 26 О 3 3 1 6 7 9 29 А 2 6 1 3 6 5 23 Х 8 5 2 4 7 5 31 О under the waist 8 3 3 10 3 6 33 Y 13 3 3 5 3 9 36 Y turned 7 4 2 6 7 9 35 U turned under the waist 8 5 1 4 4 12 34 Total 85 45 22 60 76 83 371 20 Vol 4/No.1/2015

0,6 2D Plot of Row and Column Coordinates; Dimension: 1 x 2 Input Table (Rows x Columns): 12 x 6 Standardization: Row and column profiles Dimension 2; Eigenvalue:,04575 (25,67% of Inertia) 0,5 0,4 0,3 0,2 0,1 0,0-0,1-0,2-0,3-0,4-0,5-0,6 Rectangular А Orange Blue Semifitted Х Fitted V Yellow Y turned Red U turned under the waist Purple О Close Fitted Green Y О under the waist -0,7-0,5-0,4-0,3-0,2-0,1 0,0 0,1 0,2 0,3 0,4 Dimension 1; Eigenvalue:,05117 (28,71% of Inertia) Figure 1. The levels of connections between the silhouettes and colors according to preferences of working women Table 2. The frequencies of coincidence between the silhouettes and colors according to preferences of female students Red Orange Yellow Green Blue Purple Total Close Fitted 15 2 4 6 13 22 62 Fitted 14 1 4 5 14 11 49 Semifitted 15 3 4 3 16 12 53 Rectangular 11 5 6 5 7 15 49 V 10 8 5 4 11 9 47 О 13 2 9 7 12 11 54 А 14 5 6 4 14 9 52 Х 12 5 7 2 13 19 58 О under the waist 19 4 7 7 15 14 66 Y 24 5 2 8 14 12 65 Y turned 13 5 6 6 20 18 68 U turned under the waist 19 4 6 4 7 21 61 Total 179 49 66 61 156 173 684 Vol 4/No.1/2015 21

Dimension 2; Eigenvalue:,02141 (28,49% of Inertia) 0,5 0,4 0,3 0,2 0,1 0,0-0,1-0,2 2D Plot of Row and Column Coordinates; Dimension: 1 x 2 Input Table (Rows x Columns): 12 x 6 Standardization: Row and column profiles Х Rectangular Purple U turned under the waist Close Fitted Yellow Orange V А Y turned Blue О О under the waist Semifitted Red Green Fitted -0,3-0,3-0,2-0,1 0,0 0,1 0,2 0,3 Dimension 1; Eigenvalue:,02376 (31,61% of Inertia) Figure 2. The levels of connections between the silhouettes and colors according to preferences of female students Y Sillhouettes Table 3. The frequencies of coincidence between the silhouettes and colors according to preferences of working men Red Orange Yellow Green Blue Purple Total Close Fitted 3 0 2 5 2 4 16 Fitted 3 0 2 4 3 4 16 Semifitted 2 2 2 1 3 4 14 Rectangular 1 5 3 2 1 2 14 V 2 3 2 1 2 5 15 О 1 3 0 0 8 2 14 А 3 4 1 1 1 4 14 Х 5 0 2 6 2 2 17 О under the waist 1 2 0 4 5 5 17 Y 2 2 2 3 4 3 16 Y turned 1 4 3 2 3 2 15 U turned under the waist 3 3 2 2 3 4 17 Total 27 28 21 31 37 41 185 22 Vol 4/No.1/2015

0,8 2D Plot of Row and Column Coordinates; Dimension: 1 x 2 Input Table (Rows x Columns): 12 x 6 Standardization: Row and column profiles Dimension 2; Eigenvalue:,09733 (31,11% of Inertia) 0,6 0,4 0,2 0,0-0,2-0,4-0,6-0,8 Yellow Rectangular V Y turned Red U turned under the waist PurpleSemifitted Х Green Close fitted Y Fitted А О under the waist Blue Orange -1,0-1,0-0,8-0,6-0,4-0,2 0,0 0,2 0,4 0,6 0,8 1,0 Dimension 1; Eigenvalue:,15063 (48,14% of Inertia) Figure 3. The levels of connections between the silhouettes and colors according to preferences of working men О Table 4. The frequencies of coincidence between the silhouettes and colors according to preferences of male students Red Orange Yellow Green Blue Purple Total Close Fitted 8 1 1 8 9 10 37 Fitted 6 1 3 5 11 10 36 Semifitted 8 8 10 2 7 3 38 Rectangular 11 3 4 7 10 4 39 V 4 7 2 7 12 5 37 О 6 4 10 3 7 8 38 А 6 4 4 8 7 8 37 Х 5 3 4 11 4 5 32 О under the waist 11 4 4 7 6 7 39 Y 10 3 5 4 3 9 34 Y turned 7 5 6 4 9 7 38 U turned under the waist 8 4 4 2 6 9 33 Total 90 47 57 68 91 85 438 Vol 4/No.1/2015 23

Dimension 2; Eigenvalue:,03681 (22,97% of Inertia) 0,4 0,3 0,2 0,1 0,0-0,1-0,2-0,3-0,4 2D Plot of Row and Column Coordinates; Dimension: 1 x 2 Input Table (Rows x Columns): 12 x 6 Standardization: Row and column profiles Semifitted Yellow О Orange Y Purple U turned under the waist Red О under the waist Y turned A Rectangular Blue V Fitted Х Close Fitted Green -0,5-0,8-0,6-0,4-0,2 0,0 0,2 0,4 0,6 Dimension 1; Eigenvalue:,07176 (44,79% of Inertia) Figure 4. The levels of connections between the silhouettes and colors according to preferences of male students 4. RESULTS ANALYSIS The Correspondence analysis results, presented in graphics in figures 1, 2, 3, and 4, show suitable combinations between silhouettes and colors in ladies clothing according to the preference of the groups of working women, female students, working men, and male students. For the working women (figure 1) the more suitable combinations of silhouettes and colors are between: the close fitted, Y, and O under the waist silhouettes with the color of green; the U turned under the waist silhouette and the color of purple; the A silhouette with the color of orange; and the rectangular silhouette and the color of blue. Not too strong, but enough strong combinations are: the fitted silhouette and the color of yellow; the Y and Y turned silhouettes and the color of red; the X silhouette and the color of blue; and the close fitted and O silhouettes with the color of purple. For the female students (figure 2) the more suitable combinations of silhouettes and colors are between: the fitted, and Y silhouettes with the colors of green and red; the semifitted, O, and O under the waist silhouette with the colors of red, green, and blue; the U turned under the waist silhouette with the color of purple; the A silhouette with the color of 24 Vol 4/No.1/2015

blue; the V silhouette and the color of orange; and the rectangular and X silhouette and the color of yellow. For the working men (figure 3) the strongest combination is between the close fitted silhouette and the color of green. The more suitable combinations are between: the fitted and X silhouettes and the color of green; the close fitted and fitted silhouettes and the color of red; and the semifitted, Y, and the U turned under the waist silhouettes with the color of purple. Not too, but enough strong connections are: the rectangular, Y turned, A and V silhouettes with the colors of yellow and orange; the V silhouette with the color of purple; and the O and O under the waist silhouettes with the color of blue. For the male students (figure 4) the strongest combination is between the rectangular silhouette and the color of blue. The more suitable combinations are between: the A silhouette and the color of blue; the X silhouette and the color of green; the fitted, U turned under the waist and Y silhouettes with the color of purple; and the fitted, O under the waist and U turned under waist silhouettes with the color of red. The enough strong combinations are: the semifitted and O silhouettes and the color of yellow; the semifitted and V silhouettes and the color of orange; and the V silhouette with the color of green. It is very interesting that the 4 th target groups fix the connection between the U turned under the waist silhouette and the color of purple. The 4 th investigated groups of preferences connect the color of green with silhouettes with fitting at the waist, and the colors of yellow and orange with silhouettes without fitting at the waist. 5. CONCLUSION The results of the presented investigation of connections between silhouettes and colors in combination with the latest fashion trends and colors and forms associations (symbolism and influence) can be used for successful fashion design of new models of clothing 6. REFERENCES: [1] Cortes Cl. (2003). Color in Motion [Online]. Available: http://www.mariaclaudiacortes.com [2010]. [2] Hill T., Lewicki P. (2007) Electronic Statistics Book [Online]. Available: http://statsoft.com/textbook/stathome.html [2007]. [3] Kazlacheva Z. (2010). The Use of Suitable Methods of Statistical Analysis in Fashion Design and Clothing Constructing. Proceedings of the International Scientific Conference era-5, pp. 432-437, 15-18 September 2010, Piraeus, Greece. [4] Kazlacheva Z. (2012). Design and Pattern Making of Ladies Dresses in Different. Yambol, Bulgaria, Faculty of Technics and Technologies, Trakia University, 2012, p. 54, ISBN 978-954-9999-81-5. Vol 4/No.1/2015 25