HIDRAGLOSS QUAT C22 DESCRIPTION Cetearyl alcohol, behentrimonium chloride and triglycerides from Astrocaryum sp. COMPOSITION INCI NAME CAS N EINECS (I)/ELINCS (L) Cetearyl Alcohol 67762-27-0 267-008-6 (I) Behentrimonium Chloride 17301-53-0 241-327-0 (I) Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter 356065-49-1 287-506-7 (I) INTRODUCTION Oils and vegetal-origin fats outdo the ones from animal origin, having the advantage of being emollient, facilitating hair combing, being safe and providing a smoothing effect, with a less fatty sensation. COMPONENTS DESCRIPTION 1. Behentrimonium chloride and Cetearyl alcohol Extremely substantial to hair Conditioning agent Reduces irritation potential Primary emulsifier Viscosity stabilizer /donor As the behenic derivative as a long fatty chain (C22), it offers several advantages on its formulations, especially in the decrease of the irritative potential of skin and eyes. Besides, long carbonic chains provide: better thickening for being an excellent viscosity end-donor, appropriate conditioning, and excellent sensitive attributes due to its pleasant touch, besides the great emulsifying capacity. HIDRAGLOSS QUAT C22 Pág. 1/9
In hair care lines, it can be used in several formulations, for besides being considered as a unique product in fatty phase, it has conditioning and smoothing proprieties, and greater shine when compared to the traditional quaternaries. HIDRAGLOSS QUAT C 22 is very substantial to skin and hair. For the latter, it improves dry and wet hair combability, and reduces static (and, as a consequence, flyaway effect). 2. Butter extracted from Astrocaryum sp genus palm tree The lipid material, especially triacylglycerols, is obtained from the fruits of the nuts of Astrocaryum gender palm trees from the tropical woods of Amazon, especially from Acre and Amazonas states. Its butter is extremely rich in fatty acids essential for skin and hair, and has qualities that assure smoothness, hydration and protection to dry skin. For the hair, it provides life and shine restoration, having assured benefits. The nut butter from the fruits of Astrocaryum gender palm trees has an exquisite composition of fatty acids, especially C12:0 (lauric acid) and C14:0 (myristic acid), among others. TESTS Efficacy Tests 1) Shine instrumental evaluation of hair tresses - Glossmeter HIDRAGLOSS QUAT C22: For having a composition balanced in fatty acids, it restores the natural hydrolipidic layer, providing shine, emmollience, and hydration e protection to hair. It is ideal in the treatment of lifeless and damaged hair. We very recommend its use in afro-ethnical products. A conditioner with HIDRAGLOSS QUAT C22 at 3% applied in chemically unmodified hair tresses was evaluated. HIDRAGLOSS QUAT C22 Pág. 2/9
% Shine increase 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 1 3 6 Treatments Conclusion: Under the experimental conditions adopted and considering the values obtained, the treatment with HIDRAGLOSS QUAT C 22 has provided a significant shine increase soon after the first treatment. This increase is gradual until the sixth treatment. 2) Evaluation of the opening in hair fibber cuticles through an atomic force microscopy (AFM). This study aims at evaluating the changes occurred in damaged hair surfaces treated with a Conditioner B with HIDRAGLOSS QUAT C 22 through an atomic force microscopy (AFM). The comparisons are made using the Conditioner A (with cetyltrimethyl ammonium chloride) and untreated hair (control). HIDRAGLOSS QUAT C22 Pág. 3/9
IMAGES Control Área 1 Area 2 in 3D IMAGES Conditioner A em 3D HIDRAGLOSS QUAT C22 Pág. 4/9
IMAGES Conditioner B Topografia Área 1 Área 2 Topografia 3D Área 1 Área 2 Conclusion: Under the experimental conditions adopted and considering the values obtained, hair treatment with the Conditioner B (with HIDRAGLOSS QUAT C 22), has homogenized the cuticle, thus closing it. Conditioner B was superior to Conditioner A (with cetyltrimethyl ammonium chloride) in relation to the maximum cuticle opening, providing a greater closure. 3) Hair fibber rugosity evaluation through an atomic force microscopy (AFM/LFM). The study herein aims at evaluating the changes occurred in damaged hair surfaces treated with HIDRAGLOSS QUAT C 22 on a conditioning base (Conditioner B) through an atomic force microscopy (AFM/LFM). The comparisons are made using Conditioner A (with cetyltrimethylammonium chloride) and untreated hair (control). HIDRAGLOSS QUAT C22 Pág. 5/9
IMAGES Control in 3D IMAGES Conditioner A in 3D HIDRAGLOSS QUAT C22 Pág. 6/9
IMAGES Conditioner B in 3D Conclusion: Under the experimental conditions adopted and considering the obtained values, hair treatment with Conditioner B (with HIDRAGLOSS QUAT C 22) has provided an increase of 22.9% in hair general profile, and the Conditioner A (with cetyltrimethyl ammonium chloride) has decreased the hair general profile around 33.8%. WHY TO USE IT? When the hair is damaged, the cuticles are subjected to several aggressions either by the environment (sun, wind, humidity, air conditioner, etc) or by the aggressions caused by chemical treatments (softening, colorant, perm), becoming opened. The conditioners originated by the women s needs for more attractive hair with a healthier aspect. The conditioners must smoothen, give texture, and join the scales/cuticles of hair fibbers, providing elasticity, controlling and facilitating combing. The conditioners are based in the substantivity concept, that is, the adsorption of the appropriate ingredients to change the superficial proprieties of hair, meaning that cationic substances neutralize the negative loads generated by the washes with shampoos and cosmetic agents destined to the fatty reposition of hair surface, normally removed by washing or an aggressive treatment. HIDRAGLOSS QUAT C22 Pág. 7/9
HIDRAGLOSS QUAT C 22 will provide fatty acids essential to the lipid reposition of the protective mantle and the intercellular cement, thus restoring the natural shine and malleability of hair. Thanks to its ideal behenic composition, it is a multifunctional active, for it is an excellent viscosity donor, an exceptional conditioning agent and shine donor. Therefore, all the desirable proprieties gathered in one product. APPLICATION/ USE Hair treatment masks Leave-on Conditioners Environmental damage preventive masks (sun, chloride, sea water). The product must be added during the oily phase of the emulsion, and be heated at 80-85ºC. SUGGESTED CONCENTRATION From 1.0 to 10.0% BIBLIOGRAPHICAL REFERENCES 1. L.Nogueira Prista; Aureliano da Fonseca; Manual de Terapêutica Dermatológica e Cosmetológica, Roca. 2. Pugliese, Peter T. Physiology of the skin. Allured Publishing (1996) pag 17-20. 3. Wilkinson, J.B., Moore, R.J. Cosmetolgia de Harry (1990). 4. CHAAR, J.M. Composição (Theobroma grandiflorum, SCHUM) e conversação do néctar por meios físicos e químicos, 1980, 87 p. Dissertação Universidade Federal Rural do Rio de Janeiro. 5. VASCONCELOS, M.A.M.; DA SILV,M.L.;MAIA, J.G.S.& GOTTLIEB, 0.R. Estudo Químico das Sementes de Cupuaçu. Acta Amazônica, 5(3): 293 295, 1975 6. CARPENTER, D.R.; HAMMERSTONE,J.F.; ROMANCZYK, L. J. AND AITKEN, W.M. Journal of Amercian Oil Chemists Society, 71 (8), 845-851. HIDRAGLOSS QUAT C22 Pág. 8/9
7. SILVA, W.G. Gordura de Cupuaçu, Sucedâneo da Manteiga de Cacau. São Paulo, 1988. Tese (Doutorado). Universidade São Paulo Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas. 8. Zatz.J: Skin Permeation Fundamentals and Application. Allured Publishing Corp., 1993. Document Written by: Revised by: Approved by: Controlled by: Marketing Dept. R&D Dept. R&D Director Quality Assurance Dept. Information contained in this literature is provided on good faith. We recommend that our products are tested in order to check for the convenience of their usage before adopting them on an industrial level. Such information should not be understood as a concession or allowance for using methods or compositions covered by any patent. Reproduction and distribution of this material without prior authorization from CHEMYUNION QUÍMICA LTDA are forbidden HIDRAGLOSS QUAT C22 Pág. 9/9