Page 1 of 10 Made in France: luxury manufacturing SARAH DENNIS, WGSN 15.04.09 Western France's luxury garment manufacturers are defending their position in a competitive and challenging global market through investment, training and the introduction of flexible working practices. WGSN reports. Entrance to ACC Entrance to Avenir Couture Although the garment manufacturing industry has largely been moved out of Europe to countries such as China, there are still niche areas of skilled workers that target the luxury markets, offering unique, specialist skills that combine meticulous manual work with state-of-the-art technology. Only two hours away from both Paris and London, the Pays de la Loire region of western France has a long-standing affiliation with textiles that dates back to the 14th century. Today, the area encompasses an important industrial network of 300 clothing manufacturers that are supported and promoted by the APHO (Association for the Promotion of Clothing in Western France) through state and regional funding (50%) and international exposure. APHO is based in Cholet, the central fashion campus of the Pays de la Loire region, which is also the site for the Lycée de la Mode, the local fashion school that has strong links with industry and the latest digital printing equipment.

Page 2 of 10 Samples at ACC Work station at Socovet These clothing manufacturers focus on quality, innovation and craftsmanship; working with high-end luxury designers such as Balenciaga, Christian Lacroix, Sonia Rykiel and Roland Mouret to create intricate and complex garments in short lead times. However, as the industry becomes more competitive, these companies are having to adapt, primarily concentrating on three key areas - investment, training, and changes in working practice. Many of them have recently invested in automatic cutting machines and large-scale inkjet printers that offer flexibility, speed and competitive price points, combined with pattern developing software by technology giant Lectra, situated nearby in Bordeaux, southwest France. The workshops also hold extensive specialist machinery and sewing machine attachments so they are prepared and adapted for any specific fabrics, techniques or construction methods a job might require. Christian Lacroix sketch at Getex Designer's sketch at Getex Finished garment at Getex As many of the designers only send in simple sketches and fabric swatches, it becomes the responsibility of the companies to develop patterns, source fabrics and actually realise these garment ideas. This has led to the growth of research and development departments that contain hi-tech equipment and small groups of highly skilled designers. Staff training is an integral part of keeping up-to-date with the industry and broadening skills, with time allocated for this during the quieter periods of the fashion calendar. While there are generally less workers than previously, many are multi-skilled, working across the whole production line, while others become experts in working with specific materials or new technology. Court Metrage has also built up links with the local fashion college by offering part-time apprenticeships that give the students an experience of manufacturing and helps to build links between education and industry.

Page 3 of 10 Plastic wrapping at ACC Photographs of Roland Mouret visiting ACC Roland Mouret initialled fabric Companies are also diversifying in the current climate by accommodating specific customer requests, expanding their client base or becoming more specialised in a specific area. For example, ACC has begun making costumes for the Parisian Opera; Getex has moved the majority of its business into performance and technical wear, while Socovet is branching out into menswear. Offering customised and personalised services also gives the companies an advantage, such as at Court Metrage, which carefully irons and folds up each prototype in beautiful boxes and hand-delivers the toiles, while ACC has a close working relationship with Roland Mouret, who visits the company to oversee work and initial his garments. WGSN highlights five manufacturers of the Pays de la Loire region: ACC (Ateliers Cannelle Couture) Automatic cutting machine Overview of atelier

Page 4 of 10 Garment spec and toile Ironing garment Finished Balenciaga item Marie-Thérèse Grelet with Roland Mouret dress Under the direction of Marie-Thérèse Grelet since 2000, ACC manufactures mainly dresses and soft separates, while its partner company JB (Jacques Bremaud) makes tailoring and jackets. Customers include Chloé, Roland Mouret, Jonathan Saunders, Balenciaga, Sonia Rykiel, Nina Ricci, Todd Lynn, Giles, Christian Lacroix and Karl Lagerfeld. ACC has an exclusive relationship with Roland Mouret, manufacturing all garments (drape and tailored) and distributing to boutiques worldwide. The company has diversified to make garments for up-and-coming young designers, as well as costumes for the Paris Opera. 65 multi-skilled workers take an average of 18 hours each to make a single garment. Designers send toile, fabric swatches, patterns and technical information. The building houses a wide range of machinery required for specific fabrics or techniques and the company has recently purchased an automatic cutting machine and needle table. After production the garments are steamed, quality checked and wrapped in plastic. Contact: www.acc-jb.com Intricate hand-stitched double face pleating Christian Lacroix print Getex

Page 5 of 10 Creating patterns on CAD software Manual blade for pattern cutting Heat-bonded seams Goose down weighing equipment Range of finished garments, including quilted Chanel tweed jacket (centre) Alongside its prêt-à-porter office in France, Getex opened a workshop in Fermyl, Tunisia in 1994 for technical and performance wear, which now accounts for 70% of its turnover. The company specialises in goose down quilted garments, and is certified to work with Gore-Tex and fairtrade cotton. Customers include Celine, Christian Lacroix, Holland and Holland, Chanel, Kenzo and Moncler.

Page 6 of 10 21% of garments are made for the Japanese market. 44 machine workers have been at the company an average of 18 years, making them highly skilled in their profession. A research and development department with eight staff is based in the French office. Designers often send a simple sketch, which is then developed into patterns using Lectra software, with more complex designs requiring up to 150 pattern pieces. Specialist machinery for performance and technical clothing include heat bonding that fuses seams at 531 degrees for waterproof yet breathable garments. Goose feathers are weighed, measured and stitched into pockets of the fabric. Turnover in 2008: 2.1 million. Contact: www.getex.fr Socovet Overview of atelier Overview of atelier Stacked fabrics Cutting table Overcoat

Page 7 of 10 Louis Vuitton jacket Louis Vuitton dress Mr Herblot with Rue de Mail dress Founded 37 years ago, the company was bought by Tony Herblot in 2006. Originally focusing on tailoring, the company has diversified to widen its customer base, and now also makes dresses and soft separates. Customers include Louis Vuitton, Kenzo, agnès b, Nina Ricci, Rue de Mail, Christian Dior and Balenciaga. Socovet exclusively manufactured agnès b menswear seven years ago and is now building up a clientele of menswear brands, such as Kenzo Homme and Louis Vuitton. The 46 workers are all local residents who take pride in the region and their craftsmanship. Staff training in the last three years has enabled them to work with more complex patterns and construction, as well as drapey and fluid fabrics. There are four production lines, with a capacity of 300-500 pieces a day. Designers send a sketch or pattern along with materials, except for Balenciaga, where fabrics/trims are exclusively sourced by Socovet. A research and development area with two staff uses Lectra software and equipment to create and print out patterns, and a new automatic cutting machine was purchased in October. Turnover in 2008: 5.4 million. Contact: www.socovet.com Avenir Couture Overview of atelier Ironing garments

Page 8 of 10 Automatic cutting machine Smocking machine Example of sheer fabric tailoring Founded in 1956, Avenir Couture was the first manufacturer to work with Kenzo in the 1960s, and since 2000 has worked with other luxury fashion houses. The company specialises in fragile and fluid fabrics such as jersey, organza and silk. Customers include Kenzo, Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, Karl Lagerfeld, Celine and Martine Sitbon. It is currently creating the first collection for new American designer Url Pickens, using Japanese organic denim and intricate contrast seaming. 60 workers are split into five groups of between two-12 people depending on the workload. Fabrics are sourced for all clients, mainly from Italy and Japan. A research and development department houses the Lectra software and an automatic cutting table. The company has lots of specialist machinery for the fragile fabrics, as well as a traditional smocking machine, which is also used to make smocked fabric panels that are shipped out to other manufacturers to add into garments. The workshop has numerous ironing stations, as the fluid and fragile fabrics need to be kept in shape, and many of the garments are steamed vertically on hangers, taking up to an hour to iron one garment. Contact: bocageavenircouture@wanadoo.fr New collection by Url Pickens using Japanese organic denim New collection by Url Pickens using Japanese organic denim Court Metrage

Page 9 of 10 Internal testing of toile on model Card and tracing paper patterns Creating patterns using CAD software Manual pattern cutting Constructing prototype garment Unfinished toile Sewing workstation Founded in 1996, Ms Karine Boutolleau bought the company in 2005 and in 2008 won an award for the best re-launched company of the region. Rather than mass production, the company focuses on developing just the initial patterns and prototypes/toiles, which is done a year ahead of the final collection. It specialises in womenswear and kidswear (15%), as well as one-off catwalk pieces.

Page 10 of 10 Customers include Kenzo, Nina Ricci, Paule Ka, IKKS, and childrenswear for Burberry, Timberland, DKNY and Chloé. A team of seven work in the pattern-making studio, along with two part-time apprentices from the local fashion school (Lycée de la Mode). 12 specialist workers in the prototype studio make every part of a garment and the staff are trained to increase their skills across both pattern-making and prototyping. The studio receives sketches and technical specs from the designer, which are then developed into patterns using Lectra software and internally tested on real models to see how the garment will move on the body. Patterns are hand-cut from fabric sent in by the client, as the volumes are too small to require an automatic machine. Toiles are hand-delivered to the designer for a more personal touch and for fast precision alterations. Turnover in 2008: 840,000. Contact: www.courtmetrage-creations.com WGSN comment While the current financial crises and falling value of the euro has seen a marked effect on the French manufacturers, their open-minded attitudes, adaptability and strong emphasis on creativity and technical skills is setting them apart from mass-produced manufacturing found elsewhere, enabling them to target top-end clients in the niche luxury market. Key facts According to a 2009 report from France's national statistics office, INSEE, there were 115 French "façonniers" (clothing contract manufacturers) with 20 or more staff in 2007. In total, these manufacturers employed 5,209 people and recorded a pre-tax turnover of 136.5m. Womenswear accounts for more than half of turnover (52.1%), followed by lingerie (25%) and menswear (16.4%). Other clothing categories represent 6.5% of turnover. In 2003, INSEE recorded 271 façonniers in France, employing 12,971 staff and posting a turnover of 365.3m. The contraction of the French industry reflects the trend towards outsourcing production to cheaper markets and is now also driving the current strategy among façonniers to focus on added-value services and the top-end haute couture market. Related trade shows Made in France Paris, March 24-25 2009 www.salonmadeinfrance.com French Fashion Day Le Méridien Piccadilly hotel, London April 22 2009 international-apho@orange.fr WGSN 2009