Questions & Answers
Contents What is BENTONE GEL HSO V? What is Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil? What are the major application benefits? Where can BENTONE GEL HSO V be used? How do I incorporate this product into my formulations? What are the typical use levels? How do the rheological properties of BENTONE GEL HSO V differ from that of pure Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil? Can you demonstrate the applications with some formulation examples? Is testing data available to help show the performance benefits provided by BENTONE GEL HSO V? 1
Q: What is BENTONE GEL HSO V? A: BENTONE GEL HSO V is a dispersion of fully activated BENTONE 38 V, a nonanimal origin hectorite organoclay, in Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil. This emollient acts as a vegetable triglyceride and is considered non-comedogenic Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil provides emollience with lubricity and can help to form a protective barrier on the skin. The organoclay offers rheological modifications for the oil phase and emulsions, which leads to enhanced product stability, as well as increased viscosity, suspending capabilities, rich texture, silky skin feel, good spreading properties and thixotropic flow characteristics. Figure 1. BENTONE GEL HSO V The INCI name of BENTONE GEL HSO V is Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate. Typical Properties Property Specification Appearance Tan Paste Viscosity (MM cps) 0.2-0.8 Ash Content (%) 5.8-6.4 Table 1. Typical Properties of BENTONE GEL HSO V 2
Q: What is Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil? Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil is a non-volatile oil expressed from sunflower seeds. Its main component is linoleic acid in the triglyceride form. The approximate composition is shown here: Linoleic Acid: 48-74% Oleic Acid:14-40% Palmitic Acid: 4-9% Stearic Acid:1-7% Figure 2. Structure of components of sunflower oil Sunflower oil is a skin conditioning emollient, which can help retain moisture in the skin and forms a protective barrier on the skin. 3
Q: What are the major application benefits? A: The application benefits include: Formulation stability including elevated temperature stability Thickening and suspending Thixotropic rheological flow Enhances dispersion of actives Contributes to rich texture and improved formulation aesthetics Gives a softer skin feel Offers ease of spreading and even coverage Provides emollience 4
Q: Where can BENTONE GEL HSO V be used? A: BENTONE GEL HSO V is suitable for various personal care applications. Some formulation examples are listed in this application guide. This product is very easy to incorporate into the oil phase of emulsions, or all oil systems. Applications may include: Skin care products Sunscreens Make-up Creams/lotions Ointments/oil gels/sticks Baby products Hair styling 5
Q: How do I incorporate the product into my formulations? A: BENTONE GEL HSO V may be added to the oil phase of a formulation at any convenient stage during the manufacturing cycle. This is a very high viscosity, shearthinning product. To ensure good homogeneous mixing is achieved, care should be taken to overcome the large viscosity differential existing between the BENTONE GEL and the other lower viscosity components. The use of medium to high shear mixing equipment is recommended. Thorough mixing of the BENTONE GEL in the oil phase should be ensured before continuing to the next processing step, such as emulsification. Batch Processing Single Phase Systems Always add the BENTONE GEL, under shear, to a portion of the organic component or solvent with which it is most compatible. Mix until homogeneous before adding the other ingredients. Multi-Phase Systems (e.g. emulsions) Treat as with the single phase but always ensure the BENTONE GEL thoroughly mixed in before continuing to the emulsification stage. additive is Continuous Processing The BENTONE GEL should be added to the oil phase at any convenient point, which meets the above guidelines for batch processing. In multimanifold systems, a flowable pre-mix of the BENTONE GEL with a compatible oil or solvent should be made in a side vessel. Where only lower shear mixing equipment is available, stir the BENTONE GEL and slowly add the most compatible component gradually, always ensuring the mixture remains homogeneous at each stage. 6
Q: What are the typical use levels? A: Product use levels depend on the amount of thickening and stabilisation desired in the final formulations. Suspension will be provided by 2.5-10.0% additions. In emulsions, thickening will occur in the oil phase only and emulsion viscosities will be influenced by 3-5% additions. Higher levels of BENTONE GEL will have a greater viscosity influence. Thermostable viscosity in single phase systems may be achieved by 10-25% additions. Q: How do the rheological properties of BENTONE GEL HSO V differ from that of pure Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil? A: The flow curves and oscillation curve (frequency sweep) of BENTONE GEL HSO V and Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil are compared below. BENTONE GEL HSO V is a high viscosity gel, with thixotropic flow behaviour, while Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil is a low viscosity liquid with almost a constant viscosity when the shear rate is varied. In addition, BENTONE GEL HSO V is a gel with a strong structure and excellent stability. Figure 3. Addition of BENTONE 38 V produces a high viscosity gel, with thixotropic flow behaviour Figure 4. BENTONE 38 V provides excellent stability in Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil 7
Q: Can you demonstrate the applications with some formulation examples? A: Some representative formulations with BENTONE GEL HSO V are listed here to demonstrate the various potential applications. Formula 1: After Sun Lotion Ingredient Supplier % w/w PHASE A BENTONE GEL HSO V (Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil and Disteardimonium Hectorite and Propylene Carbonate) ELEMENTIS Specialties 3.0 Galenol 1618 AE (Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth-20) Sasol 5.0 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil A&E Connock 4.0 Tegosoft M (Isopropyl Myristate) Evonik Degussa 3.0 Crodamol CAP (Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate and Isopropyl Myristate) Croda 2.0 Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil A&E Connock 1.5 PHASE B Deionised Water 77.2 Glycerin KIC Group 3.0 PHASE C Witch Hazel Distillate 2/365470 (Water and Hamamlelis Virginiana Extract and Alcohol Denat) Paratexin FPX (Phenoxyethanol and Methylparaben and Ethylparaben and Propylparaben and Butyl Paraben and Isobutylparaben) Fragrance Symrise 1.0 S. Black Group 0.3 q.s Total 100.0 Procedure 1. Heat Phase A together to 75-80 C and mix with silverson homogenising. 2. Mix Phase B with a propeller stirrer and heat to 75-80 C. 3. Using high shear mixing (e.g. silverson homogeniser), add Phase A to Phase B and continue to homogenise for 30 minutes. 4. Transfer to a propeller stirrer and commence cooling. 5. At 35 C add Phase C with stirring. Physical Properties Appearance White Balm ph 5.5 Viscosity - Brookfield DV-II+, Spindle 4, 12 rpm (cps) 15000-20000 8
Formula 2: Honey Body Butter Ingredient Supplier % w/w PHASE A BENTONE GEL LT (Hectorite and Hydroxyethylcellulose) ELEMENTIS Specialties 0.6 Deionised Water 62.3 PHASE B BENTONE GEL HSO V (Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil and Disteardimonium Hectorite and Propylene Carbonate) ELEMENTIS Specialties 3.0 Tegosoft CT (Caprilic/Capric Triglyceride) Evonik Degussa 10.0 Glycine Soya (Soybean) Oil A&E Connock 6.0 Glucate DO (Methyl Glucose Dioleate) Amerchol Corporation 4.0 Tego Alkanol 1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol) Evonik Degussa 4.0 Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil A&E Connock 2.0 Tego Care PS (Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate) Evonik Degussa 1.0 Beeswax A&E Connock 0.5 PHASE C Glycerin 4.0 Glucam P-10 (PPG-10 Methyl Glucose Ether) Amerchol Corporation 2.0 Honey (Pure Acacia) A&E Connock 0.5 Perfume Sweet Honey 0.5 FDC Yellow 5 (0.5% Sol) 0.4 PHASE D Paratexin FPX (Phenoxyethanol and Methylparaben and Ethylparaben and Propylparaben and Isobutylparaben) S. Black Group 0.2 Total 100.0 Procedure 1. Mix Phase A thoroughly, mixing on a silverson homogenise for 20 minutes. 2. Thorougly disperse Phase B, using a silverson homogeniser and heat to 75-80 C. 3. Using a silverson homogeniser add Phase C to Phase A, and heat to 75-80 C. 4. Using high shear mixing (e.g. silverson homogeniser), add Part B to Part A+C and continue to homogenise. 5. At approximately 50 C transfer to a propeller stirrer. The product will soon start to thicken around the sides of the vessel and may require manual assistance if scraper blades are not fitted to the propeller. 6. At 35 C and add Phase D with stirring. Physical Properties Appearance White/Yellow Balm ph 5.5 Viscosity - Brookfield DV-II+Pro, Spindle 5, 12 rpm (cps) 15000-20000 9
Formula 3: Warming Face Mask Ingredient Supplier % w/w PHASE A BENTONE GEL HSO V (Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil and Disteardimonium Hectorite and Propylene Carbonate) ELEMENTIS Specialties 4.0 Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil A&E Connock 2.5 Tocopheryl Acetate A&E Connock 2.5 Paratexin FPX (Propylparaben) S. Black Group 0.1 BHT 0.1 PHASE B Glycerin 41.3 Lipoxol 400 MED (PEG-8) Sasol 13.0 Glucam E-10 (Methyl Gluceth-10) Amerchol Corporation 8.0 PHASE C BENTONE MA (Hectorite) ELEMENTIS Specialties 8.0 PHASE D Zinc Oxide 5.0 PHASE E Alusil ET (Sodium Silicoaluminate) Ineos Silicas 12.5 PHASE F Apricot Seed 60-80 Mesh Size (Apricot Seed Powder) Ikeda 1.0 Peach Seed 60-80 Mesh Size (Peach Seed Powder) Ikeda 1.0 Total 100.0 Procedure 1. Add together Phase A and heat slightly to dissolve, and mix. 2. Add together Phase B. 3. Add Phase A to Phase B with silverson homogenising. 4. Add Phase C to Phase A+B and mix using a silverson homogeniser until uniform. 5. Add Phase D to Phase A+B+C and mix using a silverson homogeniser until uniform. 6. Add Phase E to Phase A+B+C+D and mix using a silverson homogeniser until uniform. 7. Transfer to a propeller stirrer and add Phase F to Phase A+B+C+D+E. 8. Cool with propeller stirring. Physical Properties Appearance ph Light Brown Speckled Cream N/A Viscosity - Brookfield DV-II+Pro, Spindle 5, 12 rpm (cps) 30000-35000 10
Formula 4: 2 in 1 Shower Gel Ingredient Supplier % w/w PHASE A BENTONE GEL HSO V (Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil and Disteardimonium Hectorite and Propylene Carbonate) ELEMENTIS Specialties 1.0 SERDET DKF-30 (Sodium Lauryl Sulphate) Elementis Specialties 30.0 Plantacare 818 UP (Coco Glucoside) Henkel 6.0 Crovol M70 (PEG-60 Corn Glycerides) Croda 5.0 PHASE B Deionised Water 50.45 D-Panthenol 75 W (Panthenol) Roche 0.5 PHASE C Natrosol 250 HR (Hydroxyethylcellulose) Hercules 2.0 PHASE D Tego Betain F50 (Cocamidopropylbetaine) Evonik Degussa 2.75 Tegin 4100 Pellets (Glycol Stearate) Evonik Degussa 2.0 PHASE E Paratexin FPX (Phenoxyethanol and Methylparaben and Ethylparaben and Propylparaben and Butylparaben and Isobutylparaben) Fragrance S. Black Group 0.3 q.s PHASE F Citric Acid Monohydrate ADM Ingredients To ph 5.5-6.0 Total 100.0 Procedure 1. Warm Phase A together. 2. Heat Phase B to 55 C, then add Phase C with silverson homogenising. 3. Add Phase A to Phase B slowly with stirring. 4. Add Phase D with stirring. 5. The temperature should be at 35 C or below by this stage. Add Phase E with stirring. 4. Adjust ph with Phase F. Physical Properties Appearance Clear Yellow Gel ph 5.5-6.0 Viscosity - Brookfield DV-II+Pro, Spindle 4, 12 rpm (cps) 35000-40000 11
Formula 5: Organic Sunscreen Ingredient Supplier % w/w PHASE A BENTONE GEL HSO V (Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil and Disteardimonium Hectorite and Propylene Carbonate) ELEMENTIS Specialties 20.0 Tegosoft Liquid (Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate) Evonik Degussa 7.5 Polarwax NF (Cetearyl Alcohol and Polysorbate 60) Croda 4.2 Tegosoft M (Isopropyl Myristate) Evonik Degussa 3.0 Eusolex 2292 (Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnimate and BHT) Merck 2.5 Parsol 1789 (Butyl Methoxybenzoylmethane) Roche Vitamins 0.8 PHASE B Deionised Water 30.6 Glycerine 5.0 PHASE C Phenoxetol (Phenoxyethanol) Clariant 0.2 Total 100.0 Procedure 1. Heat Phase A together to 75 C. 2. In a separate container warm Phase B to 75 C. 3. Using high shear mixing (e.g. silverson homogeniser), slowly add Phase A to Phase B. 4. Continue to mix for several minutes. 5. Transfer to a propeller stirrer and commence cooling. 6. Under 35 C add Phase C. 7. Mix until uniform. Physical Properties Appearance White Lotion ph 5.5 Viscosity - Brookfield DV-II+Pro, Spindle 4, 12 rpm (cps) 2000-3000 12
Q: Is testing data available to help show the performance benefits provided by BENTONE GEL HSO V? A: Experimental data has been obtained by testing the different formulations, with and without BENTONE GEL HSO V. Apparent performance benefits are demonstrated in the following examples. BENTONE GEL HSO V in the After Sun Lotion (Formula 1) The Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil provides an emollient effect, with the organoclay helping to provide a base for the product, improve the application properties and stabilise the product. Figure 5. Flowcurve of the after sun lotions In figure 5, we can see that the sample with BENTONE GEL HSO V is thixotropic. BENTONE GEL HSO V in a Honey Body Butter (Formula 2) This water in oil cream uses Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil as an emollient. The organoclay helps stabilise the emulsion, allows for even application and provides a smooth, soft finish. Here in figure 6, we can see that the honey body butter with BENTONE GEL HSO V appears to be stable, whereas the sample without organoclay indicates phase instabilities. Figure 6. Honey body butter frequency sweep In figure 7 the honey body butter with BENTONE GEL HSO V shows greater phase stability throughout the entire temperature range, whereas the sample without organoclay starts to undergo phase changes at around 60 C. Figure 7. Temperature oscillation curve 13
BENTONE GEL HSO V in Warming Face Mask (Formula 3) The warming face mask has been designed to provide a toning, purifying face mask, which warms the skin, allowing impurities to be more easily removed from the skin. The BENTONE GEL HSO V improves the rheological profile, giving it a stable viscosity when standing, so that the particles remain suspended, while allowing it to be applied easily to the skin. Figure 8. Flowcurve comparing face mask with Kaolin and BENTONE MA with face mask containing both BENTONE GEL HSO V and BENTONE MA BENTONE GEL HSO V in 2 in 1 Shower Gel (Formula 4) BENTONE GEL HSO V in this 2 in 1 shower gel provides easy application and stability, while also increasing the viscosity, giving the skin a silky after feel. Figure 9 shows the greater thixotropy in the shower gel with BENTONE GEL HSO V. Figure 9. 2 in 1 shower gel flowcurve 14
BENTONE GEL HSO V in an Organic Sunscreen (Formula 5) The BENTONE GEL HSO V in this organic sunscreen offers the emollient effect of Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil along with the even application, better rheology and improved feel achieved with the hectorite organoclay. Figure 10 shows the increased thixotropy achieved when BENTONE GEL incorporated into the formulation. HSO V is Figure 10. Flow curves for organic sunscreens Below in figure 11, we see that the organic sunscreen with BENTONE GEL HSO V udergoes no phase changes from 10-80 C, whereas the sunscreen without organoclay undergoes a phase change at about 60 C. Figure 11. Temperature oscillation curves 15
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