Derby Hat Skill Level: Beginner Designed By Cassie Williams Sewn By Cassie Williams http://elegantitus.com And they re off! Thesaurus had a bit of an awkward start, Apple Jack broke well, Briar Rose is up and on the pace! Florence is in third, and Dear Stella is in fourth on the inside as they bolt for the first turn. Keep your hats on, Ladies and Gents, this is going to be a gorgeous day at the pony track! Prepare for a day at the races with this fashion savvy derby hat, designed by Cassie of Elegantitus. Fabrics Needed Light to medium weight woven fabric 2-1/4 yards Materials Needed Pellon 731 Fuse-N-Shape 1 Package Pellon 911FF Fusible Featherweight 1/2 yard 1/4 double-fold bias tape 1 Package Wide ribbon or fake flower (optional) Tools Needed Sewing machine and related supplies Rotary cutter and related supplies Washable glue stick Pinking shears (optional) http://www.pellonprojects.com
Step 1. Print and cut out templates. Fold the hat fabric both length-wise and width-wise as shown at right. Pin brim template to corner of folded fabric as shown and cut out. Do not cut on the fold. Cut two brim pieces from the hat fabric. Step 2. Trace template onto the Fuse-N-Shape, then flip the template and trace again to create a half circle. Cut out. Repeat step to create a second half circle. Step 3. Cut out twelve dome pieces from the hat fabric. Cut six dome pieces from the Fusible Featherweight. Fuse the Fusible Featherweight pieces to the wrong side of six hat fabric dome pieces. These pieces will become the outer dome. Derby Hat Page 2
Step 4. Place the outer dome wedges right sides together and stitch using a 5/8 seam allowance. Clip curves or pink seam allowances to 1/4. Repeat with dome lining wedges. Step 5. Pin one hat brim (woven fabric) to dome lining, right sides together. Stitch using a 5/8 seam allowance. Repeat with outer dome. Clip curves or pink seam allowances to 1/4. Press seam allowances toward hat dome on both the lining and outer dome. Step 6. Using spray baste, a few dots of washable school glue stick or glass-head straight pins, temporarily baste brim interfacing onto wrong side of brim fabric (either outer or lining is fine). Butt brim interfacing against the dome/brim seam with seam allowances pressed towards dome. Derby Hat Page 3
Step 7. Place the other side of the hat on top of the basted hat, wrong sides together and baste as necessary so that hat seams are touching and brim edges are even. Even out hat and smooth any wrinkles as necessary. Fuse brim (with interfacing sandwiched between woven fabric) following manufacturer s instructions from dome seam to brim edge. Flip and repeat until hat brim is fully fused and wrinkle-free. Step 8. Starting 1/2 from brim edge, and working towards the dome, topstitch concentric circles around brim, overlapping or backtacking 1/2. Clip threads after every full topstitching rotation. Step 9. Apply 1/4 bias tape all the way around the brim and topstitch down. Derby Hat Page 4
Step 10. Optional: Pin baste ribbon and flowers as desired. Secure with hand stitching as needed. Derby Hat Page 5
Brim Template Section A Set printer to 100%. Check gauge. Print templates. Match Brim Section A on dashed line with Brim Section B. Tape together to form template. 1 Gauge Brim Section A cut on fold
Brim Template Section B/Dome Template Set printer to 100%. Check gauge. http://www.pellonprojects.com Brim Section B cut on fold Dome cut 6 of outer cut 6 of lining cut 6 of shapeflex cut here for interfacing cut here for fabric 1 Gauge