Creating by Hair Design

Continuing Page 1 of 114 Creating by Hair Design Introduction: Creating a desired hairstyle can often be a long, tedious, and non-intuitive process. In this segment, we will take a look at various hairstyles for numerous occasions. Techniques for hairstyling can be categorized into three general steps: attaching hair to the scalp, giving the hair an overall or global shape, and managing finer hair properties. Creating by Hair Design will introduce some of the most recent trendy styles with step-by-step tutorials so that you can begin practicing these styles right away. With the economy continually changing now is the time to stay one step ahead in mastering your profession as a cosmetologist. Having a combination of hairstyles on your service list will open up opportunities to improve your clientele, thus making you the go-to professional for a variety of services. The hairstyles that are featured in this course can be practiced with the aid of a mannequin so feel free to practice the step-by-step tutorials to master these styles. Let s get started with some of the fundamentals of Creating by Hair Design by considering a variety of hair style descriptions. Hair Style Descriptions Trendy Haircuts for Short Hair In the coming year, look for short hair style trends to be dramatic and eye catching. Easy to care for and maintain, short hair styles will continue to be the chosen style for many celebrities and fashion buffs. Look for bobs, pixies and shag styles to pop up on the radar. 1

Continuing Page 2 of 114 Short Bob with Color How can you make an exotic and classic haircut even more outstanding? Give it a new color. Short bobs like this look great in the classic black, but in a bright, iridescent blonde, they are absolutely knee buckling gorgeous. The line of the fringe actually starts at the tip that curves into her jawline and is drawn in a big sweeping but meticulously cut frame for her face. Gently undercut and super fine textures keeps the edge soft and give it a smooth fall. The edge along the side is angled and has rounded edges. 2

Continuing Page 3 of 114 Short Retro Hairstyle A famous short retro hairstyle combined with the lines of Kandinsky presents itself with three fluid curves that accentuate the shape of her face, her eyes, and the cheekbones and then the attention is taken to the long and slender neck. All lines seem to be painted on and as if they were still liquid. The hair is drenched in a smoothing and sculpting product and shaped with the vision of a sculptor. This style is artistic and sexy for a very special outing. 3

Continuing Page 4 of 114 Pixie Haircut Sleek and metallic, it does not get any trendier. A pixie haircut has been textured and graduated so finely that there are hardly any visible transitions. All looks like a helmet of finely spun platinum snug to her head and framing her face with diagonal points and an adorable longer strand right in front of her ears. This look combines old and new with sci-fi color and is one of the sexiest looks of the season. Another bonus for this cut is a multitude of styling options. Short and Expressive Haircut 4

Continuing Page 5 of 114 This example features longer top hair with fine layers, all styled towards the front in a slightly overlapping and casual way. The sides are cut above the ear and graduated. This creates a distinct edge, but with a soft outline. A bright gold makes this look as precious as it is supposed to be. Classic Page Boy The classic page boy got a feminine makeover for this extravagant look. The top hair forms a round silhouette with the length of the bangs continuing around the head. The lower sections of hair were chiseled with perfection to follow the line of the ear behind some indicated sideburns and flowing gently to the tapered nape that is pronounced with a smooth layering. The deep brown color is interspersed with walnut accents for more dimension and warmth. This precise cut is easily styled with a round brush, a blow dryer, smoothing serum and a mist of spray. 5

Continuing Page 6 of 114 Round Cut Page Boy Round is the message but this time with a twist. A meticulously cut page boy wraps around the head in a smooth bowl shape with blunt inward beveled edges and smooth tapering on the nape. The highlight of this catching look is a long section on the right side flowing almost to the end of the neck and framing one side of the face with its smooth tapered line that connects in a perfect curve to the straight bangs. The medium brown color comes alive with subtle highlights in honey. Long and Short Hair Combined 6

Continuing Page 7 of 114 The best of both worlds, long and short, combined in one stunning hairstyle. A fluffy bob with a high crown and gentle texturing sits on top a bottom layer of long, blunt hair that reaches a few inches over the shoulders. The top portion forms a nice round silhouette with a high partition on the side, long bangs that almost reach the chin. The contrast of the lengths and textures is intensified with a gentle contrast of color from a warm honey, dark blonde tone in the bob part to a darker hue on the long sections. Versatile Medium Length Hairstyle 7

Continuing Page 8 of 114 Blonde seduction comes as a double feature presentation with this versatile look. A super sleek version takes our attention to the marble like color of the hair, a bright platinum with strands of a warmer beach blonde and a subtle nutmeg tone. The high side part lets the hair flow across the face in a gentle sweep, connecting with the blunt cut sides. The roundness of the silhouette becomes even more evident in the curly version of this cut. Steep Angle Bob One of the short hair styles of 2013 that will continue is dramatic blunt cuts with blunt bangs. Easy to care for, many celebrities are choosing short hair styles with blunt bangs in 2012 as their own signature fashion statement. Added as a finishing touch to pixie or crop cuts, blunt bangs can prove to be not only dramatic, but also give a touch of flair and edge to this short hair cut. Appropriate for all ages and face shapes, but can look especially good on women with long face structures. If blunt bangs are combed all the way down, it shortens the appearance of the face. For women with round faces, bangs can be cut so that they are a bit shorter and give the face a longer baby appearance. 8

Continuing Page 9 of 114 A-line taken to an elegant max. Straight and rounded lines, a steep angle from back to front and precisely cut contours make this blonde creation a modern masterpiece. Note the long, blunt and straight bangs! The sides are tapered to form a soft frame for the face and the length increases from the nape to a few inches below the chin. This eye-catching cut can be styled smooth or with more texture in a sassy, fluffy style. Curly Short Hair Style This is a wonderful way to do magic with natural curls. The hair was cut to one length all around the head and the curls are enhanced by subtle plays of color between coppery blonde and almost platinum 9

Continuing Page 10 of 114 highlights. The short style circles the head like a halo and allows the face to fully show its beauty as there are no bangs or side sections covering any of it. Large rollers help to bring a uniform, large size into the curls. Twirls These chocolaty twirls are a refreshing modification of long and straight hair. The cut is a one length, blunt line, over-the-shoulder style with long, full and straight bangs. While stunning in this form, the hair turns into a voluptuous, voluminous and playful mane of pure joy! Spiral curlers or a medium thick curling iron can bring in the curl. The contrast with the straight crown and bangs give this look its special energy. Bob with Bounce 10

Continuing Page 11 of 114 Older women with finer hair will love this exciting version of a bob. The hair is gently layered and styled to bouncy fullness. Much volume is created on the crown by lifting the roots and giving the layers a nice curve. Textured bangs and gently tapered sides frame the face with a soft caress and the deep espresso color makes the face glow. This cut is especially sassy with the sides loosely tugged behind the ears, allowing one long strand to roam free on the side. Graphic Cut This is a graphic haircut. Short on one side and longer on the other, the look is truly dimensional. It is set off by the dark brown and black color combinations that make it shimmer. 11

Continuing Page 12 of 114 Face Shaping Hairstyle This hairstyle is designed to shape the face with its precise lines. The color really sets this look apart with its reddish gold highlights that give it a true brilliance. Twiggy Look Hairstyle 12

Continuing Page 13 of 114 The Twiggy look hairstyle uses soft layers throughout a short bob to create volume and structure. The color is a light shimmery blond that adds a bit of soft glamour to the style. Another short hair style for 2012 that is gaining in popularity is the short layered hair cut. Short layered cuts are a wonderful styling option because they offer so many different choices when it comes to finishing. Short layered bobs are a symphony of movement and texture. By adding layers, hair easily falls into place and provides movement with every shake of the head. For added dramatic touches, add color highlights that can glimpse out as the hair moves and shimmers in to place. Another popular short layered cut for 2012 continues to be one in which hair is cut very short in the back and front hair is left longer. The longer hair gracefully frames the face, either from a side part or a central part. Longer front hair can also be cut and combed to leave a fringe bang. Multi-tone Curls Hairstyle 13

Continuing Page 14 of 114 The volume sits all above the ears yet a few flirtatious strands guide our eyes towards her neck and shoulders. The depth and intensity of the movement in this hairstyle are achieved by using dark and light tones of blonde to create a lot of light and shadow. Now that we have taken a look at a variety of hairstyle descriptions, let s get right down to business with some hands-on tutorials. Below you will find a series of step-by-step techniques that can be perfected with some practice. Feel free to practice these techniques with a mannequin. Creating by Hair Design How-To Tutorials Coiffure 14

Continuing Page 15 of 114 A coif is a close fitting cap that covers the top, back, and sides of the head. Coifs were worn by all classes in England and Scotland from the middle Ages to the early seventeenth century. This technique was later integrated in to hairstyles. Below are two examples with step-by-step demonstrations. Step 1: After smoothing the hair with a hair dryer, divide the hair into 3 parts; gather each part in a ponytail and mist with liquid spray. Reassemble the fringe separately with a clip. Step 2: Use a hairpiece of a totally different color. Divide it into 2 parts. 15

Continuing Page 16 of 114 Step 3: Cover the ponytail, tie with a knot at the base of the ponytail and form an additional ponytail of a different color. Step 4: Mist with glazing hairspray on the original ponytail and roll it over your fingers towards the forehead. Step 5: Form a cone at the root of the ponytail, secure with an open pin at the root of the ponytail. 16

Continuing Page 17 of 114 Step 6: Divide the hairpiece into 4 parts. Mist with glazing hairspray and comb the first part. 17

Continuing Page 18 of 114 Step 8: Secure with a tail comb, roll its extremity over your fingers. Step 7: Curl it around the cone and return to the starting point. 18

Continuing Page 19 of 114 Step 9: We have formed a flat Six secure with open pins. Step 10: Divide the main ponytail into two, one part being clipped to the second part of the hairpiece. Step 11: Mist with glazing hairspray and comb them together, secure with tail comb. Step 12: Raise towards the ponytail, secure again with tail comb. Smooth the remaining part. 19

Continuing Page 20 of 114 Step 13: Bypass the cone - upwards, fix with an open pin in the middle of the cone. Step 14: Stretch the second part of the ponytail to the side and leave it loose together with the third part of the hairpiece. Step 15: Mist with glazing hairspray and comb together the fourth part of the hairpiece and the lower ponytail, towards the nape of the neck. STEP 16: Secure with a tail comb and twist it up. 20

Continuing Page 21 of 114 STEP 17: Secure with a tail comb and raise it till the elastic band knot. STEP 18: Comb down the remaining tip ends, and fix beneath the lower ponytail, with an open pin. STEP 19: Mist with glazing spray the last part i.e. both the 4th part of the hairpiece and the 2nd part of the central ponytail. STEP 20: Comb towards the ear, secure with a tail comb, then go back to the central ponytail. 21

Continuing Page 22 of 114 STEP 21: Secure the central hairstyle with tail combs, and then comb the locks around the hairstyle, swirling them on the right and the left, and then go back to the front. STEP 22: Smooth over the cone the remaining tip ends in circular rounds and fix to the front part beneath the cone. STEP 23: After the spray dries up, remove the tail combs, reinforce the loose corners with pins. STEP 24: Mist the fringe with glazing spray, smooth and stretch it upwards. 22

Continuing Page 23 of 114 STEP 25: Swirl the fringe around the cone and close the cone. Coiffure 2 23

Continuing Page 24 of 114 In order to get a wet and glossy look, you have to use a liquid hairspray, which suits ponytails as a basis to dressings. STEP 1: After a wavy brushing, divide the hair horizontally to the ear and mist with liquid hairspray. Assemble the back part in a ponytail. STEP 2: Mist with glazing hairspray a small lock of hair and comb in upwards. STEP 3: Secure it with a tail comb and twist it as an arch over the ponytail, ending beneath the ponytail with an open pin. STEP 4: Take an additional lock of hair on the right side, mist it with glazing spray, secure with a tail comb. 24

Continuing Page 25 of 114 STEP 5: Roll it over with the tail comb as an arch over the former arch and secure it with a small open pin. STEP 6: Continue twisting the hair over the ponytail, forming arches each arch on top of the other. 25

Continuing Page 26 of 114 STEP 7: Start a new round of arches, mist another lock of hair with glazing spray, secure with a tail comb. STEP 8: And twist it over the first round of arches. STEP 9: And so on, from the center downwards. STEP 10: Secure over the first arch, with an open pin. 26

Continuing Page 27 of 114 STEP 11: And so on and so forth. STEP 12: Form a kind of vane of hair. STEP 13: Leave the tail combs till the spray dries up. You can use a hair dryer, then remove the combs. STEP 14: Pick up a lock of hair near the ear. 27

Continuing Page 28 of 114 STEP 15: Mist it with glazing hairspray and comb it backwards, over the vane. STEP 16: Roll it in beneath the vane. STEP 17: Secure beneath the vane, below the arches, with an open pin. STEP 18: Proceed with the other side pick up another lock of hair close to the ear. Mist with glazing spray and comb it downwards, under the vane. 28

Continuing Page 29 of 114 STEP 19: Swirl it beneath the arches and while twisting, reach the other side, pulling the tips in between the arches and form a new arch. STEP 20: Pick up a section of the front hair and comb them downwards. STEP 21: Lay the hair lock from the crown, downwards, on the opposite side of the vane, secure with tail combs and secure the tip with an open pin fixed on the bottom of the vane. STEP 22: Split into two the left over section of hair in the front, one being combed upwards and twisted over the vane, to the opposite side. 29

Continuing Page 30 of 114 STEP 23: Smooth and secure with tail combs, fix with an open pin, under the vane. STEP 24: Mist with glazing hairspray the last lock of hair. Comb it to the opposite side, downwards. STEP 25: Smooth the underneath lock towards the vane and secure with an open pin on the vane s basis. Coiffure 3 30

Continuing Page 31 of 114 STEP 1: Roll the hair up on curlers, after the shampoo. STEP 2: Smooth the front hair with a brush and a blow dryer. STEP 3: Form a circle crown hair. STEP 4: Assemble the hair in a central ponytail. 31

Continuing Page 32 of 114 STEP 5: Form a parting in the front fringe hair and leave a section loose. STEP 6: Mist with some soft spray and swirl the lock of hair from right to left. STEP 7: Secure the swirled lock with a pin fixed to the ponytail. STEP 8: Pick up another lock of hair from the ear parting and mist it with spray. STEP 9: Swirl the lock of hair towards the ponytail and fix it close to the ponytail. STEP 10: Pick up a section of hair, from the nape of the neck upwards while leaving out some hair close to the ear, mist some soft 32

Continuing Page 33 of 114 spray, twist upwards and fix close to the ponytail. STEP 11: Pick up a lock of hair in the front, while leaving out some loose hair, and again twist it and fix it to the ponytail. STEP 12: Twist a section of the hair close to the ear and fix it close to the ponytail. STEP 13: Pick up a central lock of nape hair and twist it upwards and fix it close to the ponytail. STEP 14: Assemble all the tips, close to the ponytail. 33

Continuing Page 34 of 114 STEP 15: Smooth the assembled group of hair tips fixed to the ponytail. STEP 16: Form a vertical Six. STEP 17: Fix the Six with an open pin over the lack of hair we twisted before. STEP 18: Pick up another lock of hair, smooth it, form a vertical Six and fix it to the lock of hair we twisted before. 34

Continuing Page 35 of 114 STEP 19: And so on, out of all the locks of hair we gathered close to the ponytail, we have formed vertical six s, fixed to the hair tips twisted before. STEP 20: The central crown ponytail close to which all the vertical six are being fixed. STEP 21: Divide into several parts. STEP 22: Form a group of additional vertical six and lay it over the former six group. 35

Continuing Page 36 of 114 STEP 23: Weave the remaining hair tips and form curls with a Babyliss. STEP 24: Separate each curl and form several curls. 36

Continuing Page 37 of 114 STEP 25: Fix them with open pins to all the curls bulk. 37

Continuing Page 38 of 114 Halo Soft, luxuriant curls are intermixed with fresh flowers. 1 2 3 Before Divide off a triangular central section and hold on crown. Twist side hair. This section goes from front to back. Divide one side section into two, and secure lower hair in a ponytail, positioning towards center back 38

Continuing Page 39 of 114 4 5 6 Secure top half of this section in a ponytail, positioning towards center back. Repeat for other side. 7 You know have four ponytails. Take reserved crown hair and brush smooth. Divide off front piece - our model had a long fringe section. 8 Take remaining front hair and brush smooth to center back of head and secure at nape in a low ponytail. Picture shows this work complete with the two higher ponytails clipped up and out of the way. 9 Grip a net to the base of each ponytail. Use a section clip to hold nets on crown while you continue to work. Backcomb each ponytail. 39

Continuing Page 40 of 114 10 11 12 Smooth each ponytail and cover with nets, coiling ends into large curls. 13 Coil one section of hair round fingers and grip in place. 14 Coil end over and pin in place. 15 Repeat with another section. Continue in same manner. Use end of tail comb to tidy curls. 40

Continuing Page 41 of 114 16 17 18 Curl final lower ponytail section. Coil Neaten ends and pin. Shows completed back of style before addition of flowers. It looks complicated but this hair is easily twisted to create this look. 41

Continuing Page 42 of 114 1 2 3 Before 4 Divide off crown hair into a large V- shaped section from left temple down to right temple. 5 Starting from left-hand side, twist hair in a clockwise direction. 6 Pass twist to right-hand side and prepare to join with a narrow section taken from temple to center back. Continue to twist - you will find that hair begins to coil back on itself. Join pieces together to twist back to other side using a clockwise movement. 42

Continuing Page 43 of 114 7 8 Continue in same manner, going back and forth, adding new hair into the coil at each side and remembering to continue twisting each time you pick up a new section of hair. The right side should go under and left side should go over. Repeat until you reach nape of neck. Pin end of final coil in place and insert pearl pins down each side. BOUFFANT 43

Continuing Page 44 of 114 Modern version of the classic beehive 1 2 3 Before Section off front hair from ear to ear. Divide front hair into two sections and put back hair into a high ponytail. Backcomb ponytail 44

Continuing Page 45 of 114 4 5 6 Use a bristle brush to begin smoothing top layer of hair only. 7 Gather smoothed ponytail into one hand. 8 Secure ends in a section clip. 9 Flip ponytail forward and grip in a horseshoe shape 2.5cm from band. Shows grips in place. Flip hair back over and fold round to create a rounded shape. Grip at center back. Work right side, then left side and lastly top area. 45

Continuing Page 46 of 114 10 11 12 Secure sides with hair pins. 13 Neaten edges with a tail comb. 14 Backcomb one front section leaving a small band of hair free. 15 Mist with hairspray then smooth this section and pull upwards at a 45* angle so it sweeps around bun. Secure, just off center back, using two hairgrips. Use a tail comb to tuck ends of hair under bun. Pin to hold in place. 46

Continuing Page 47 of 114 16 17 18 Backcomb and mist other side of hair with hairspray. Again leave a small band of hair free as for first side section. 19 Wrap hair round to back and secure with two grips. 20 Fold ends round finger and form into a barrel curl with tail comb. 21 Neaten ends and grip in place. Insert hair accessories. Curl side hair into tendrils. Gypsy 47

Continuing Page 48 of 114 Step 1. Set partially dried hair on self-fixing rollers - picture shows completed front view. Step 2. Shows completed side view of pli with fringe and side hair set in barrel pin curls 48

Continuing Page 49 of 114 Step 3. Hood dry. When hair is completely cold, remove rollers. Step 4. Shows all rollers removed. Step 5. Start smoothing hair from front using a bristle brush. Step 6. Brush right through to ends, flicking hair out. 49

Continuing Page 50 of 114 Step 7. Mist with hairspray while lifting with fingers to give volume and texture. Step 8. Position head-dress and grip in place, then comb fringe. Tip: Use self-fixing rollers with a heat-retaining metallic band - they give a firmer, longer lasting set. TWIST CHIGNON 50

Continuing Page 51 of 114 1 2 3 Before Section off front hair from ear to ear and secure back hair in a low ponytail. Fix hairnet to base of ponytail. 51

Continuing Page 52 of 114 4 5 6 Backcomb ponytail, mist with spray and smooth over top layer. 7 Lower hairnet to enclose hair. 8 Set top section of front hair on heated rollers, leaving side sections free. 9 Roller under netted ponytail to create a horseshoe shape. Secure with pins. Take a garland of flowers, form into a horseshoe shape, roll round and place ends of garland inside ends of roll. Secure with hairgrips. 52

Continuing Page 53 of 114 10 11 12 Take one side section of hair and twist in a clockwise direction. 13 Take this section of hair over garland to center back and secure with pins. End into a curl and repeat with hair at other side. Remove heated rollers and backcomb front hair, mist with hairspray and smooth over into a quaff. Hold shape with section clips whilst pinning hair into a coil above headdress. Mist with hairspray. The Art of Dressing Long Hair 53

Continuing Page 54 of 114 Follow the steps below to give an elegant feminine look. This style is ideal for formal wear and gives a real edge of sophistication. 1 2 3 Before Smooth hair, section by section, using straightening irons. Hair completely straightened 4 5 6 54

Continuing Page 55 of 114 Diagonally part hair from temple to nape, then use a grooming brush to smooth hair back. 7 Shows other side; equal sectioning will ensure an even result. 8 Clasp hair in ponytail at center back. 9 Secure hair in covered band. Take a small section of hair, wrap round band and secure with a grip Twist ponytail in a clockwise direction, using both hands, until it coils round. 10 11 12 55

Continuing Page 56 of 114 Secure with grips, pushing the grips into the hair to conceal them. Backcomb fringe gently. Loop fringe into a barrel curl and secure with a grip, ensuring the grip is concealed. - Alternatively leave the fringe loose to form a sweeping effect. For an edgy and individual look follow the steps below to create a style that will most definitely turn heads! 56

Continuing Page 57 of 114 1 2 3 Before 4 Use paddle brush to dry hair, brushing continuously as you dry for a smooth finish 5 Straighten hair section by section, using straightening irons 6 Smooth serum through the outer layers of hair to banish any flyaway ends Brush hair forward from crown Smooth hair into a slightly offset pony tail at hairline 7 8 9 57

Continuing Page 58 of 114 Clasp hair in hand, twist clockwise and secure base of the twist 10 Secure with grip at base of the twist 11 Secure hair 12 Backcomb ponytail from midlengths towards roots Fold over holding ends with hand Tuck in ends and secure with grips Elegant 58

Continuing Page 59 of 114 1 2 3 Section hair from ear to ear and center parting from front of forehead to nape of neck. Starting from the nape, take a small section on each side one inch thick. Section the remaining hair using a section clip, comb down the one inch section of hair using a tight tension, using your fingers and comb as a guide line, cut to the required length. This cut To obtain a layered (feathered look) section the front section of hair in the center clip away the remaining hair at the back using section clips. Take a small section of hair from both sides as illustrated in the picture. Using your fingers as a guide line, comb the hair towards you depending on how short you require your first layer and cut downwards, you will Section from ear to ear cut the hair in layers taking away the bulk from the center of your hair this gives your hair movement, without thinning, away your ends. 59

Continuing Page 60 of 114 section of hair is then used to repeat throughout the rest of the hair until you obtain a straight line equally cut around the back and sides of hair. This then gives you a basic bob shape. have two guide lines, the first is your shortest point of your fringe and the second is the length you cut earlier, any hair between these points you cut as shown, this gives you your textured layered look around your face, repeat on the other side until your sides becomes equally the same. 4 5 Part the hair where you want it to fall, when your style is finished, take a small one inch to two inch section depending on how thick you require it to be, comb down the sectioned hair using tension, cut downwards from your parting. If you want the fringe to be textured, comb the cut section upwards pulling it slightly back. Chip into the section slightly taking great care not to take away too much. This angle can require you to razor the bottom, only on some people can this be done. If you razor very fine hair you will make the hair very weak and looking thin and brittle. Razors can only be used if the hair is thick, it gives the style a very textured look, and also lots of movement. Razor hair with great caution. 60

Continuing Page 61 of 114 Elegant Party Hair 1 2 3 Before Part hair at side and then smooth crown hair into a high ponytail. Divide ponytail into five and set on Set side hair on heated rollers as shown, i.e. two rollers on smaller side section, three 61

Continuing Page 62 of 114 heated rollers rollers on large side sections. 4 5 6 Completed heated roller pli. Mist with hairspray and leave rollers to cool completely. 7 Carefully remove rollers from sides and allow curls to fall freely. Now remove rollers from crown in the same way. 8 Smooth hair using a grooming brush, which will help to eliminate any static and tendency to flyaway 9 Clip side hair out of the way Use tail comb to hold twist at the Loops ends of hair into a curl 62

Continuing Page 63 of 114 and take a square section on crown. Twist hair in a clockwise direction for 5cm root area, bend twist forwards and secure with crossed grips and secure with a grip, form ends round base of curl and secure 10 11 12 Curl remaining crown hair in the same way. Smooth one side of nape hair upwards and grip, form ends into a curl. Smooth other side of nape hair upwards and grip, form ends into a curl as before and grip. Smooth one side of front hair to center back and grip, form ends into curls and grip. Repeat for other side. Short Sleek 63

Continuing Page 64 of 114 1 2 3 To obtain a textured fringe, using small sections cut your guide line, to obtain the length required; continue using the same amount of hair each time until all your fringe section is cut, evenly. To obtain textured jagged look, from the center of your fringe take a one inch section placing it in your fingers holding it downwards in a 90 degree angle as illustrated in the picture. Instead of cutting in a straight line, cut into your line downwards taking great care only to slice into the hair not by cutting out large chunks. This hair style is basically obtained by slicing the hair rather than cutting, in a club cut method, by slicing the hair you obtain a more moveable textured look. 64

Continuing Page 65 of 114 4 5 6 Using your comb as your guideline, lift up small sections, as you comb slides through the hair you slice into (chip into) the hair in an upwards action, this creates texture at the nape of the hair line. Evening Tress Sectioning hair from ear to ear taking small sections you slice the hair in a upwards movement, taking care not to take away too much length, you only way to achieve a reduced bulk (thickness). Use a soft hold wax or texture cream on the ends of the hair to create interest! 65

Continuing Page 66 of 114 1 2 3 Separate off the top section of hair and pin it out of the way. Comb the back to one side and secure it with hair pins as shown in the diagram 4 Comb or brush the hair to gather it up smoothly and use your hands to roll it into a bun at the crown of the head, secure it with hair clips 5 Take a lock of hair from the top of the head, next to the bun and back comb it 6 Smooth the surface of the lock and place it across the bun so that it conceals the parting and blends with the bun Take the next two locks of long hair and arrange them in waves across the bun. Use clips and hair spray to secure them 66

Continuing Page 67 of 114 7 Take the last temple lock of hair and arrange it carefully in a wave formation to complete the style. Apply hairspray to secure. High Fringe 67

Continuing Page 68 of 114 1 2 3 Make edging of the fringe on a direct line 2-3 centimeters above eyebrows 4 Cut lower back hair line in a direct line with growth of hair 5 Continue to cut middle of back area using vertical partings Continue to cut middle of back area using vertical partings Continue to taper and blend Jagged 68

Continuing Page 69 of 114 1 2 3 Part hair in the center. Take a small section of hair across the nape of neck, use this as a guideline to how short you require it. Follow part 1 using your 1st section as your guide line. Bring all your remaining hair down and cut in sections. After your back section is cut, using your ear to ear parting section a small 1 inch section of hair, comb down. Your guide line will be the section you cut previously in 1 and 2, comb the side section down cut along the guide line joining the back to the front, repeat on the other side until the hair is evenly cut on both sides. 69

Continuing Page 70 of 114 4 5 Take a small section of hair depending on how thick you require your fringe, clip the remaining hair out of your way, and part your sectioned hair to be cut in the center. Cut using the picture illustrations on a angle downwards, repeat on other side. When complete use a hair straightener Classic Bob 70

Continuing Page 71 of 114 1 2 3 Part hair from center to bottom nape of neck. Clip each side up, remove each side clip take a small one inch section on each side and clip remaining hair up. 4 Take a small one inch section in the center, place fingers on 90 degree angle pulling from nape of neck outwards until tension is tight and cut on the angle. Follow round on all bottom sections. 5 Remove side clips again and release another section from each side starting at center again. Take another one inch section using your guide line from the previous section and cut. Pull tension to same angle follow guide line and cut again, carrying around whole section. To get the graduation, slightly angled towards front, section hair center and from ear to ear, using small sections part the 1st side using guide line from No 1, cut again using angle, as per 3 - repeat other side. Comb hair forward in center part. Clip hair back into 2 inch clips on each side leaving a small section of hair to be cut into a fringe. When cutting fringe bring tension down tighten with fingers and only cut under bridge of nose. Long Spikes 71

Continuing Page 72 of 114 1 2 3 Section hair as illustrated. Starting with your bottom section, pull the hair outwards on an angle using your two guide points, which are your bottom length and the top of your section that you are holding, cut the hair in between. Repeat this around the remaining hair, until your hair is equally layered. Section hair as illustrated. Always section your hair neatly using section clips. Pull out your section. You want to obtain a textured look; therefore, you cut into the straight line you cut earlier, only cutting the edges. Take care not to cut chunks out of your hair, your aim is to add movement and interest. You will obtain this by taking your scissors, keeping your thumb straight and moving your Using 1" sections pull out your section using tight tension. Cut down wards taking the weight from the bottom of your hair. Repeat around your head using the same method using your 1st section, cut, as your guideline. 72

Continuing Page 73 of 114 finger. 4 5 Section your hair in a center parting. Take a small section of hair using your guideline you cut earlier in illustration (1) pull down the hair using a tight tension and cut on an angle, depending on how angled you want your style to look. Repeat, using this first section as your guideline. Repeat on the other side until all the perimeter Using the same method shown in illustration (2) Chip into your straight ends to obtain a more moveable textured look. Style the finished cut using firm hold styling wax, after blow-drying. 73

Continuing Page 74 of 114 of your hair is equally cut on both sides. Short ' n ' Shy 1 2 3 74

Continuing Page 75 of 114 Once you have your perimeter shape cut. Section your hair into a center parting using section clips, take a small 1" section from either side, clip up the remaining hair. Take a 1" section starting in the center of your head using your fingers as a guideline, cut on an angle as illustrated. Repeat around the rest of your hair using your 1st section as a guideline. Taking down the remaining hair out of your section clips, comb the hair down using your comb, section your hair across lifting it up with your fingers, cut across using your bottom section which when lifted up will show through your section, giving you a guide line to follow. Continue until all hair has been cut. 4 5 6 Section your hair as illustrated in the picture. Take 1" sections depending on how short you require your layers to be. Cut using the 1st section as a Picking up small sections using your comb pull the section outwards using tight tension. Leave 1" between your fingers Comb your hair neatly downwards using a center parting. Take a small section starting at the bottom, comb down using tension and cut on an angle depending on how 75

Continuing Page 76 of 114 guideline. Continue through your hair until it is equally layered throughout. and the end of your hair; chip into the ends to add texture. Continue throughout your style. short you require it to be. Comb down the remaining hair & cut using your first section as a guide line. Continue using the same method on the other side. Blow dry using mousse and fixing cream. Short Blonde Hair In a flashback to the 1960s retro look, look for pixie cuts to also continue to gain ground in fashion trends for short hair cuts in 2012. Pixie cuts draw attention to delicate feminine facial features. Easy to care for, a pixie cut can be wash and go, or styled into dramatic spikes or slicked back with just a little styling gel. Pixie cuts can be a wonderful option for women with fine or thin hair. With lots of layers and texture, this hair cut can give the appearance of thickness and heft. Short hair styles for 2012 will continue to push the envelope in terms of drama and style. Look for hair cuts that are easy to care for, but offer many different styling options for the wearer. 76

Continuing Page 77 of 114 1 2 3 Taking a small section from the center of the hair, starting at the crown working towards the nape of the neck chip into the hair you are holding, repeat around the rest of the hair using the same method. Taking care not to cut away too much hair, which will make your length too short. Taking your scissors in a downward cutting action slice the scissors across the hair to add texture, taking care again not to cut out chunks, your aim is to texture the ends, repeat on the other side. Comb the hair into the shape you want it to lie when the style is finished, using your scissors, chip into the ends all around the bottom of your style, taking care again not to take away too much. 77

Continuing Page 78 of 114 4 5 6 Comb down the fringe in the direction you want it to lie using your scissors which have to be very sharp, slice downwards to add texture. If your scissors are blunt and not razor sharp it will rip the hair rather than slice it, which will add great discomfort to your client and you will achieve the look you require. Lifting up small sections of the fringe, place your fingers onto your clients head using your scissors, chip into the hair, and continue across the whole front section of the head. Comb down your style using your razors only lightly on the hair, razor downwards continue across the sides and back of the head taking great care. Finger dry your style using mousse, style with firm hold wax, fixing the style into place. Basket-Weave Braid 78

Continuing Page 79 of 114 1 2 3 Divide the hair into seven equal strands - three on either side of the face and one at the center back. Starting at the right hand side, cross the first strand (The strand nearest the face) over the second strand Cross the third strand over what is now the second strand as shown. 79

Continuing Page 80 of 114 4 5 6 Repeat steps 2 & 3 on the left side. What was originally the first strand in each group has now become the third strand 7 Take the third strand on the right hand side over the central strand, and under the third strand on the left hand side Now bring the first strand on the right hand side over the second strand and under the central strand Repeat step 6 on the left hand side. Finally, clasp with a scrunchie Using Babyliss Twisted 80

Continuing Page 81 of 114 Before 1 2 Section hair from ear to ear (occipital bone to occipital bone) and pin rest of hair out the way on top of the head. Divide the back section and taking first section gently twist (only half twist) and place between the tongs. 81

Continuing Page 82 of 114 3 4 5 Wrap the section around the first (bottom) barrel, taking the section from underneath and winding upwards. Wrap around the second barrel in a figure of eight motion. Hold for about five seconds. 6 7 8 Pull the Twisted Twin Barrel styler down and out of the hair to release the curl. Repeat this throughout the back, taking each section from ear to ear. Work in sections moving up towards the crown and continue the figure of eight curling process. 9 10 11 82

Continuing Page 83 of 114 Once all the back section has been completed repeat at each side. Continue until all hair is curled. Run fingers through the hair to break up the curl (do not brush as this will cause frizz). Finished Look Using Babyliss Triple Barrel Waver 83

Continuing Page 84 of 114 Before 1 2 Take a section of hair about 4cm wide. Spray hair lightly for extra hold. 84

Continuing Page 85 of 114 3 4 5 Place the section between the bottom plate and top barrels of the Babyliss PRO Triple Barrel Waver. Ensure you are about 2cm away from the scalp. 6 Clamp the Weaver shut and hold for about five seconds. 7 Move the Waver down and make sure you place the first barrel in the last wave so the waves interlock together without any harsh lines or dents. 8 Move down ensuring that you place the first barrel in the last wave. Move down until you have completed the section and tuck tails into the barrel with a tail comb for a smooth finish. The wave should be continuous and smooth. 9 10 11 85

Continuing Page 86 of 114 Moving to the top section, again take five sections about 5cm, 2cm away from the scalp and turn the wavers up slightly on an angle to avoid creating hard lines around the crown. Always ensure the plate is under the hair with the barrels clamping down onto it. Because the plate has an edge to it, it is essential you tilt it to avoid creating a ridge. Keeping away from the scalp creates a soft movement off the head. To finish simply break up the waves with your fingers to create a softer look. Anastasia 86

Continuing Page 87 of 114 Transform long and curly hair by styling them up into this classic style. Check List Paddle Brush Mousse Comb Diffuser Hairdryer Hairspray Heated rollers 87

Continuing Page 88 of 114 1 2 3 Before 4 Mousse is applied to damp hair and distributed from roots to ends. 5 Hair is blow-dried a section at a time using a paddle brush. 6 A grooming brush is used to smooth hair into a high ponytail. Secure hair in ponytail using a covered band. Set ponytail on heated rollers and leave until completely cool. 88

Continuing Page 89 of 114 7 8 9 Release heated rollers and take a small section of hair and wrap round base of ponytail. 10 Secure with a grip. 11 Take a piece of hair padding. 12 Use as a roller on ponytail hair. Curve to form a high bun. Secure with grips. Astra 89

Continuing Page 90 of 114 Check List Hairspray Mousse Hairdryer Transform long and curly hair by styling them up into this classic style. 90

Continuing Page 91 of 114 1 2 3 Before 4 Apply mousse to roots to give volume and lift. 5 Dry hair using volatizing brush, smoothing hair from roots to ends as you blow-dry. Use concentrator nozzle on dryer to speed up the drying process. 6 Create a front parting, take rectangular section on the bias from hairline to crown as shown. Twist this entire section of hair clockwise from roots to ends. Mist with hairspray to eliminate stray ends. Continue to twist the hair which will double back on itself to form a coil. 91

Continuing Page 92 of 114 7 8 9 Secure the coil to the scalp using a grip. this is the coil completed. 10 Continue working in same way until all front section hair is twisted, coiled and gripped into place. 11 Continue working with crown hair but taking larger sections to work with. 12 Final coil on crown section being completed. Proceed into nape area taking a diagonal section, over directing towards the crown, twist and coil then secure into place. Repeat for other side. Finally fix starry ends using pins to complete the finished look. 92

Continuing Page 93 of 114 Bonnie Transform long curly hair by styling them up into this classic style. Check List Serum Deffuser Hairdryer Hairspray Comb Mousse 1 2 3 93

Continuing Page 94 of 114 Before 4 Dispense mousse onto a vent brush then evenly distribute through hair from roots to ends. 5 Allow length of hair to sit in diffuser cup of dryer, the heat will gently penetrate the hair and curls will begin to form. 6 Continue drying in same manner, working round head, until you have achieved lots of volume and texture. Create a zigzag parting from front hairline to crown as shown. Secure hair at one side in covered band. 94

Continuing Page 95 of 114 7 8 9 Continue zigzag parting down back of head to nape, and then secure hair at other side in a covered band. 10 Note that the two ponytails are asymmetric. 11 Take a stand of hair from one ponytail and wrap around band to cover. Repeat for other ponytail. 12 Backcomb ponytail using fingers, then twist into a cone shape and secure. Backcomb other ponytail in same way. Twist backcombed hair into a cone shape and secure with grips as before. Shape come using a tail comb to lift and finish. Mist with hairspray to hold shape. 95

Continuing Page 96 of 114 Isabella Check List Curling Tongs Serum Comb Deffuser Hairdryer Hairspray 96

Continuing Page 97 of 114 1 2 3 Before 4 Work serum all through hair to smooth cuticle. 5 Begin drying by allowing hair to sit in diffuser cup of hairdryer. 6 When hair is nearly dry, scrunch up with hands to increase curl. Tong individual curls to achieve more definition. Work all over head in same way. 97

Continuing Page 98 of 114 7 8 9 Take a triangular section at front. 10 Twist, but not too tightly, to form a coil. 11 Allow coil to loop into a loose curl. 12 Grip in place. Repeat all over head, making coils and gripping into place. Mist finished style with hairspray. Persephone 98

Continuing Page 99 of 114 Check List Straightening Irons Comb 1 2 3 Before Take large sections and smooth using a jumbo tong to add slight Part hair in center and smooth behind ears. 99

Continuing Page 100 of 114 movement. 4 5 6 From center back take first section and twist, not too tightly. Loop upwards to crown and grip in place, leaving end out. shows first loop gripped in place. 100

Continuing Page 101 of 114 7 8 9 Take next section, parallel to first, and twist in same way. 10 Loop upwards to crown and grip in place. 11 Take the next section and work it in the same way. 12 Take front second, work in same way but loop backwards round ear. Curl and pin the ends of each loop. Shows one side completed work other side in same way but bring all coils round to first side. Serenity 101

Continuing Page 102 of 114 Check List Hairdryer Straightening Irons Serum Comb 102

Continuing Page 103 of 114 1 2 3 Before 4 Smooth hair using concentrator nozzle on hairdryer and a hot curl brush. 5 Use Straightening irons to flatten hair a section at a time. 6 Apply serum through hair to smooth cuticle and add shine. Section off front hair than take section from behind ear. Loop this section of hair. 103

Continuing Page 104 of 114 7 8 9 Form into a knot 10 Pull knot upwards 11 Secure with a grip, leaving ends loose. 12 Shows first completed knot. Work round occipital bone in same manner. Work other curls in same manner. Finish by taking front reserved section of hair and tying to underneath section in a bouble knot Zoe 104

Continuing Page 105 of 114 Check List Serum Deffuser Hairdryer Hairspray Comb 105

Continuing Page 106 of 114 1 2 3 Before 4 Apply serum through hair from roots to ends to control curl. 5 Take a fine section of hair and smooth between fingers. 6 Twist hair round fingers.. Pin into a flat curl. Do another flat curl in same way. 106

Continuing Page 107 of 114 7 8 9 Repeat all over the head. 10 Dry using a diffuser until hair is completely dry. Switch to cold shot at end to set the hair before releasing pins. 11 Section off top hair and hold in hand. 12 Secure at crown at center back with crossed pins. Take lower hair from right hand side, smooth over and insert a row of pins up center back. Wrap hair from left hand side round, tuck in ends and pin. Smooth remaining hair into top of 'formed cone' and pin. 107

Continuing Page 108 of 114 Facial Feature Styling Tips The shape of your client s face will help you to determine what hairstyles you can perform to make them look their best. You may need to add volume to the top of the head, length to make the face look longer, or a curly style to make the head look smaller. All these are important issues that should be taken into consideration, and knowing your client s facial feature is the beginning. Let s take a look at four basic shapes: Oval, Square, Round, and Triangle. We will also consider how you can determine your client s facial shape. Considering just the basic face shapes will remove the need to consider many different groups because the basics can be applied using universal principles. First With your client sitting in front of a mirror, pull the hair back away from the face. Use a headband or ponytail holder to keep it out of the way and take close look at the face. Afterward a helpful tip would be to trace the outline the client s face on a sheet of paper-trace the outline of the face along the hairline, around the cheeks following the contours of the chin. Once you ve done this, take a look at the shape you have drawn. Does it appear wider at the top or bottom? Is it round or more egg-shaped? Does it seem to have corners at the jaw line or forehead? These are all traits indicative of specific face shapes. By recognizing these shapes, you can easily adapt your service to create a hairstyle better accentuate your client s most attractive features. Facial Classifications 108

Continuing Page 109 of 114 OVAL The oval face shape is considered the ideal. It is not too wide, not too long, and everything seems to be in balance. The benefit of having an oval face shape is that you can wear most any hairstyle without issue. Of course, there may be other factors that come into play (over-balanced or prominent features) but we can discuss those later. For now, we are keeping things simple. 109

Continuing Page 110 of 114 SQUARE The square face shape is marked by appearing to have corners at the jaw and forehead. The overall effect is that the face appears somewhat boxy. The square face also includes what was formerly referred to as rectangular, which meant that the face had corners but also appeared longer than average or narrower than a typical square face. Dealing with a square face requires that you incorporate curved lines in the cutting edges of the style in order to balance out the angles of the face. A softly curved fringe over a squared forehead, and textured ends of a bob cut allowing the hair to curve inward and caress the jaw are great ways to compensate for the angles of a square face. If the face is also narrow, add a little more volume to the sides in order to make the face appear wider and you have a winning look. 110

Continuing Page 111 of 114 ROUND This is a common face shape as it occurs both as a natural shape and tends to develop in cases of weight gain. The outline of the face is rounded and the cheeks and jaw may seem to merge into a single curving line. It is also relatively easy to compensate for, as long as you remember the basic rule that your goal is to grant the illusion that the face is oval shaped. When dealing with a round face, you want to add volume in the top section of the hair and keep it minimal at the sides (at least in comparison to the rest of the style). This could mean a long, layered style that has volume up top, light curls along the sides and some length to draw the eye along the vertical line and make the face appear longer. It is also a versatile face shape for women who prefer shorter hair, since you can add volume at the top of the head by cutting the hair close along the sides and bulking up the top with curl or spiky lengths. 111

Continuing Page 112 of 114 TRIANGLE The triangle face shape comes in two forms usually: the traditional look where the face is wider at the forehead and narrower at the chin, and an inverted form with a wide jaw and narrower forehead. In these cases, the key is to create a style that gives balance to the dimensions of the face. One of the best ways to deal with triangle faces is to give bulk to the area that is narrower, and allow the wider area to be left with less volume around it. Traditional triangle faces may look best with a style that is curly on top and shifts to straighter lengths that fall along the face. On the other hand, a face shaped like an inverted triangle could look great with a style that features longer lengths that curl and expand as the hair hangs down. Knowing the shape of your client s face allows you to understand some of the very basic principles of style and balance. It will let you choose hairstyles that flatter, and will give you the opportunity to make the most of your client s appearance. Dealing with Prominent Profiles 112

Continuing Page 113 of 114 Even though we can categorize facial shapes and give general suggestions on style options, each individual has his or her own personal quirks. We all have our "best" features, and many of us have a "problem area" that we need to address when choosing a style. Here are some common issues and suggestions for minimizing them: Prominent Nose: When dealing with a prominent nose, you can minimize the severity of the profile by choosing a style that includes fringe/bangs and pulls back from the face on the sides of the head. Avoid curls in favor of curves, and keep the lines simple. Shorter, blunt cut styles tend to work best. Prominent Chin: This is similar to the prominent nose in that it adds a sharp angle to the profile of the head. The solution is also similar. Again you want to use fringe/bangs if possible and keep the lines simpler. With the prominent chin, longer is better. Try to keep the style at least neck or shoulder-length and consider layered ends and softer curves as opposed to curl. Flat Features: Sometimes the problem isn't a feature that juts forward, but rather that the profile appears too flat. Choose a style that pulls the hair back from the face and add volume along the top and back to add depth to the profile. A short layered, or graduated cut styled with additional volume can have the desired effect. Unbalanced Features: Close-Set or Wide-Set Eyes: An individual with close-set eyes appears to have eyes that are too small. By styling the hair forward on the sides of the face, you can decrease this appearance and make the face look more normally proportioned. However, when dealing with wide-set eyes avoid volume on the sides of the hairstyle and keep the hair away from the face. Keeping the style off the face increases the amount of skin visible on the outer sides of the eyes and makes the balance seem in proportion, but adding volume on the sides would only make the eyes appear wider. Small or Large Mouth: When a person has a small mouth and wants to maximize its appearance, he or she should consider a shorter, blunt cut (possible the angled bob) to draw the line of the face inward and make the jaw seem less wide and more balanced with the mouth. A wide mouth, on the other hand, is flattered by longer sweeping styles that avoid crowding the face, but still act as a "frame" for the face as a whole. 113