Final touches during the making of the Colombe Mystérieuse Clip by Van Cleef & Arpels in 18K white, red and pink gold set with diamonds, emeralds, rubies and Traditional Mystery Set rubies; Le Secret collection. POA. www.vancleefarpels.com
Making-of a necklace in 18K grey gold set with one 16.82-carat mandarin garnet and 22.31 carats of diamonds; Conquêtes collection Louis Vuitton. POA. www.louisvuitton.com The July Couture week in Paris is the most important time for haute joaillerie presentations. Some houses also present new creations in January (see Deluxe Pad February 2017 issue for The Haute Joaillerie Report, Paris, January 2017), however all of them, including smaller independent players and a growing number of fine jewellers, unveil their latest work in July.
Necklace in 18K grey gold set with one 16.82-carat mandarin garnet and 22.31 carats of diamonds; Conquêtes collection Louis Vuitton. POA. www.louisvuitton.com In this vintage, a few houses have stepped up their efforts in sourcing exceptional gemstones; something they did not do in previous collections preferring instead to favour the creative aspect. This move will strategically cement their position with increasingly discerning collectors. It s also evident that some designers have embraced a sense of eccentricity, with exuberant pieces that thumb their nose at the classical preconception of what high jewellery should be. In the same way, many have pushed out technical boundaries, which is entirely to the credit of the ateliers: transformable jewels have never been so transformable! Overall the mood was upbeat with collections inviting us to sun-drenched gardens and seasides (Mediterranea by Giampiero Bodino, Dior à Versailles, côté jardins by Dior, Flying Clouds by Chanel, Sunlight Journey by Piaget, Isola Madre by Mellerio, Fruits de ma Passion by Lydia Courteille), to celebrate life through music and festivities (Festa by Bulgari, Chaumet est une Fête) or to travel to a fantastic, faraway land where jewellery is always intriguing and exciting (Le Secret by Van Cleef & Arpels, Hiver Impérial by Boucheron). Note: PART III and final of the Haute Joaillerie Report, Paris, July 2017 will be published on Deluxe Pad at the end of August 2017.
www.buccellati.com Cocktail pendant earrings composed of rays in 18K pink gold set with rubies, alternating with leaf-modelled white gold rays set with yellow and white diamonds. At the centre of the pendant part, there is a yellow gold bezel set with a heliodor, while the upper part has a central round yellow gold bezel set with a ruby. The pendant part is detachable by means of a yellow gold bezel set with a ruby; 4.28 carats of round faceted rubies, 2 faceted heliodors (10cts) and 144 round brilliant-cut diamonds (1.42cts). POA. The Buccellati high jewellery presentation in their rue de la Paix flagship boutique was a demonstration of the house s iconic designs and techniques (chiselled gold, ornate apertures, astute colour contrasts, etc.) but also the opportunity to see some slightly different creations compared to the traditional Buccellati s aesthetics. All in all the fifty or so jewels were beautifully presented inside antique glass cabinets, on top of which laurel branches rested. At the centre of the room a long table was decorated with vases and flowers, and this is where the silverwares were presented. Among the wealth of exquisite jewellery, it is worth noting the blue hot enamelled cuff, only one of three one-of-a-kind pieces (the other two are green and burgundy), as well as the open-worked watch that looks like lace; as well as the bib-necklace with flames in white gold; as well as all of them! Bangle bracelet in 18K yellow gold set with 262 round brilliant-cut diamonds (4.82cts). The cuff is rigato engraved, with side triangular rosettes and in blue enamel. It has hexagonal rosettes in white gold set with diamonds, centring a leaf-modelled white gold bezel set with a diamond, and alternating with rhomboidal shapes in white gold and diamonds; leafmodelled yellow gold borders finish the piece. POA.
www.buccellati.com Pagoda-like cocktail ring in openwork 18K white gold with sections set with diamonds. At the centre is a cushion-shaped bezel in yellow gold, leaf-modelled and set with a fancy diamond, contoured by shapes in modelled yellow gold; garland-shaped yellow gold borders set with yellow diamonds; modelled white gold stem with leaves flowing one after the other; 68 round brilliant-cut diamonds (0.89ct), 1 yellow diamond (1.67cts) and 40 fancy yellow diamonds (0.49ct). POA. Flexible bracelet in 18K yellow gold with honeycomb and radial tulle patterns, with white gold curls set with diamonds, laterally rigato engraved; 522 round brilliant-cut diamonds (13.80cts). POA.
www.buccellati.com Bib-necklace with flames in 18K white gold and diamonds. In the centre of each flame are white gold leafmodelled bezels set with diamonds, while the inner part is ruchesmodelled white gold; 1448 round brilliant-cut diamonds (27.02cts). POA.
www.chanel.com Yachting Day Brooch in 18K white gold set with a 1.57-carat round-cut diamond, one 1.53-carat pear-cut diamond and 481 brilliantcut diamonds; Flying Cloud collection; CHANEL Fine Jewelry. POA. The mood was masterfully set: an entrance with sea waves projected on the floor, a central platform with white high sails that compartmented the display columns, deck chairs scattered around This was CHANEL s homage to solar, radiant moments in the life of mademoiselle, with a full-on nautical theme; this was the introduction of CHANEL Fine Jewelry, the Flying Cloud Fine Jewelry collection in two chapters. Flying Cloud is also the name of the yacht which belonged to Hugh Grosvenor, familiarly known as Bendor, the second Duke of Westminster, one of the men who undoubtedly counted the most in the designer s life, the team says. All the main symbols referring to yachting and sailing were astutely used in the designs: ropes, stripes, buoys, anchors, sailor s buttons, tattoos In the end Flying Cloud is an ingenious interpretation, as the theme never made the pieces look costumish but rather expressed utter elegance.
www.chanel.com Turquoise Waters Necklace in 18K white gold set with a 2.58-carat pearcut diamond, 12 cushion-cut blue sapphires, 34 oval-cut blue sapphires, 3 pear-cut blue sapphires, 2 roundcut blue sapphires and 1552 brilliantcut diamonds for a total weight of 23.84cts; Flying Cloud collection; CHANEL Fine Jewelry. POA. Turquoise Waters Earrings in 18K white gold set with 2 ovalcut blue sapphires (4.21cts), 2 pear-cut diamonds (3.03cts), 4 round-cut blue sapphires and 276 brilliant-cut diamonds; Flying Cloud collection; CHANEL Fine Jewelry. POA.
www.chanel.com Summer Cruise Ring in 18K white gold set with a 5.02-carat marquisecut diamond, 28 blue sapphires and 26 brilliant-cut diamonds; Flying Cloud collection; CHANEL Fine Jewelry. POA. Deep Blue Bracelet in 18K white gold set with a 2.51-carat oval-cut diamond, 55 oval-cut blue sapphires and 1175 brilliant-cut diamonds; Flying Cloud collection; CHANEL Fine Jewelry. POA. Precious Float Ring in 18K white gold set with a 1.01-carat roundcut diamond, 2 blue lapis lazulis and 108 brilliant-cut diamonds; Flying Cloud collection; CHANEL Fine Jewelry. POA.
www.louisvuitton.com Necklace in 18K grey gold set with one 7.55-carat tsavorite garnet, chrysoprase, pearls, onyx, lacquer and 6.26 carats of diamonds; Conquêtes collection Louis Vuitton. POA. Nothing like a play on words for the title of a collection that has at its core a play on two eponymous symbols. Conquêtes is indeed Louis Vuitton s latest high jewellery collection, and in French is can mean either a territorial or an amorous conquest; either way some kind of force is involved each time. It is also a memorable collection for it merges two emblematic signature motifs, the Monogram flower and the V (which noticeably were the heroes of previous collections, however not simultaneously). So for the first time, the round aspects of the flower motif espouse the angular style of the V, and this new insignia serves to enhance rare bright coloured gemstones (another signature of the house). Imperial topaz, mandarin garnet and vivid blue tourmaline emit their special radiance, and the more you explore the designs, the more details are unveiled, in particular the accents of lacquer that are hidden from first sight.
www.louisvuitton.com Necklace in 18K grey gold set with one 54.30-carat tourmaline, pearls and 23.14 carats of diamonds; Conquêtes collection Louis Vuitton. POA. Two rings in 18K grey gold set with (left) one 7.76-carat Paraiba tourmaline and 4.45 carats of diamonds; (right) one 4.44-carat tourmaline and 3.72 carats of diamonds; Conquêtes collection Louis Vuitton. POA. Bracelet in 18K grey gold set with one 12.16-carat tourmaline and 19.04 carats of diamonds; Conquêtes collection Louis Vuitton. POA.
www.lydiacourteille.com Ring in 18K gold set with one 7.23-carat rubellite, 4.90 carats of yellow sapphires, 3.73 carats of brown diamonds and tsavorites; Fruit de ma Passion Collection. POA. In Lydie Courteille s new collection, Fruit de ma Passion, the hedonistic quality of this Garden of Eden is on steroids, as though seen through a kaleidoscope of the most joyous and delectable shades of pink and yellow. Here the fruits are exotic (bananas, Cédrat, Buddha s hand lemons, star fruits) and the snake apparently benign. To achieve her chromatic extravaganza, Courteille has unearthed the only gemstones that could provide such lively colour depth: rubellites and tourmalines for the pink hues, and sapphires for the vivid yellow hit. The visual sensory jolt certainly exudes passion, albeit a playful one. Sweet and sour, fizzy and creamy, in each piece the ripe delicacy (pink) is nestled in a yellow jungle, and naturally shielded by a lurking snake.
www.lydiacourteille.com Earrings in 18K gold set with tourmalines (6.60grs), 5.95 carats of yellow sapphires, 6.87 carats of brown diamonds and tsavorites; Fruit de ma Passion Collection. POA.
www.messika.com Zelda Choker in 18K white gold set with 473 emeraldand brilliant-cut diamonds (40.29cts); Paris est une Fête Collection. POA. The Paris Couture week was the opportunity for Messika to present a few additions to their iconic Paris est une Fête Collection (which was first introduced at Basel World this year). Faithful to the 1920s vibe of the collection, the new pieces demonstrate once again how the French jeweller successfully explores volumes and shapes with one single component, white diamonds. The Zelda Choker (a cool counterpart of the sassy Flappers Choker ) is a play on disrupted symmetry the vertical and horizontal have now merged while the Man Ray Tie Necklace is a chameleon, entirely made of marquise-cut diamonds, it can be worn three ways. Known for being a sensational adorner of ears, Messika has also tailored a few superb earcuffs, including the Isadora style, a chic line of pear-shaped diamonds.
www.messika.com Isadora Earcuffs in 18K white gold set with 19 pear-cut diamonds (4.79cts); Paris est une Fête Collection. POA. Madeleine Scarf Necklace in 18K white diamonds set with 446 marquise-cut EF VS diamonds (92cts) and 30 pear-cut diamonds (5.5cts) this includes a detachable pear of 4.01-carats; Paris est une Fête Collection. POA.
www.moussaieff.co.uk Flagship Boutique: 172 New Bond Street, London W1S 4RE Tel: 0207 290 1536 Ring in 18K pink gold set with one 7.48-carat Burma ovalcut ruby, one 2.29-carat oval shape rose-cut diamond, 20 rose-cut diamonds (0.30ct) and 65 round-cut diamonds (0.56ct). POA. As always it was such a pleasure to delve into Moussaieff s selection of high jewellery for the Paris Couture week. Delve is indeed the best way to describe how mesmerising each Moussaieff jewel is, for each has a story that revolves around rarity. Be it the indigo depth of an important natural Burma sapphire, so irresistible in fact that you want to dive into its brilliance; or the insanely precious marriage of fancy blue and fancy pink diamonds in a romantic pair of earrings, the former with a round cut that is even rarer than the rare gem itself; or the deceptively demure Golconda type IIA pear-shaped diamond whose limpidity and crystal clarity awarded it the holy grail of grades: Finest Water. Not a single piece is without a specialty, so much so that Moussaieff is surely both a custodian of all things unique when it comes to high jewellery and a consummate storyteller (not a colour or cut that does not prompt a revelation). Natural Burma Sapphire 91.38-carats set as a brooch/pendant with yellow diamonds and emeralds, and paired with an emerald and diamond necklace. POA.
www.moussaieff.co.uk Necklace in 18K white gold set with rosecut, pear-shaped and pink diamonds for a total of 18.23 carats; paired with a pendant made of one 8.13-carat Golconda Type IIA Finest Water DIF pear-shaped diamond, one 0.19-carat natural fancy deep purple pink marquise-cut diamond, one 0.30-carat pink marquise-cut diamond, and one 0.22-carat brilliant-cut pink diamond. POA. Natural Fancy Pink and Blue Diamond Earrings, in 18K white gold set with 7.60 carats of fancy blue, 2.05 carats of fancy pink, and 0.95 carat of white diamonds. POA.
www.vancleefarpels.com Colombe Mystérieuse Clip in 18K white, red and pink gold set with diamonds, emeralds, rubies and Traditional Mystery Set rubies; Le Secret collection. POA. There is no better way to capture an important and intimate moment than by associating it with the offering of one (or more) fine jewel. Nothing spells precious moment more than an actual precious token; an heirloom that will be passed down from generation to generation so that the memory will live on, and that this same memento will become a lucky charm over time. Le Secret by Van Cleef & Arpels is a treasure trove of such meaningful keepsakes, each with a secret known only to the wearer, and with various ingenious representations: a heart-warming message engraved on the reverse, a ring that contains several jewels, a bracelet that metamorphoses, a flower clip whose petals can be gently rotated to reveal engraved messages on the reverse It is magical and enchanting, a remarkable feat of craftsmanship as every single mechanism that helps operate the illusion is hidden. Le Secret sentiment-laden creations are to be cherished with the same intensity as loved ones.
www.vancleefarpels.com Pégase Necklace with Detachable Clip in 18K white gold set with one Sri Lankan 45.10-carat emerald-cut sapphire, diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires; Le Secret collection. POA. Séraphîta Transformable Ring in 18K white and pink gold set with one Madagascan 16.46-carat emerald-cut sapphire, diamonds, blue and mauve sapphires; Le Secret collection. POA.
www.vancleefarpels.com Métamorphose du Cygne Clip in 18K yellow and white gold set with coloured sapphires, spessartite garnets, black spinels, onyx and diamonds; Le Secret collection. POA.