COAT AND WAISTCOAT - A DRESS CODE FOR FEMALE EDUCATORS AT SCHOOL LEVEL Kriti* Dr. Gurcharan Singh** ABSTRACT A survey was conducted to identify a dress code for female educators to enhance their performance during teaching learning process. As additional constructional features may provide solution to the problem but does not look smart and professional which can provide dignity and universal identification to the profession. Now, India is heading towards westernization and female educators prefer indowestern style of dressing. So, the present study suggests a waistcoat with any type of dress for summers and coat with any type of dress in winters as a dress for female educators at school level. * Research Scholar, Department of Fashion & Designing, Monad University, Village & Post Kastla Kasmabad, P.O Pilakhwa 245101 tehsil Hapur (U.P), India ** Supervisor, J.N.V. Dhilwan. Barwala (Pb.), N.V.S. New Delhi under M.H.R.D. http://www.euroasiapub.org 134
INTRODUCTION Ever since human has inhabitant earth, men and women have been occupying themselves more or less with attaining, enhancing and preserving of their external beauty. The concept of external beauty has been changing from time to time. Clothing is the second skin and clothes are an outward expression of how people feel about themselves and their surroundings. Adornment later grew as one of the necessities since one s appearance affected not only feelings and behavior but also served as a non verbal symbol, projecting and revealing impression to those with whom one came in contact. (Vastard and Naik, 2005) Clothing provides a means of self expression and aesthetic enjoyment and a way to suggest wealth and prestige. Clothing is also one of the most personal components of daily life. And its selection, use and care is our daily routine work. Clothing means much more to women. Clothing is considered to be symbolic of working women s success in life and social position. Women need clothes that are suitable for home wear, office wear, shopping, travel and occasions etc (Vijaylakshmi, S. 1970). Especially the working women require clothes of a more practical nature, comfortable, neat and business like in appearance. Clothes not only help to achieve the success she deserves but also give her poise and confidence as well as self identification (Yadav, N. and Sangwan, N. 2008). Objective of the study: 1. To study the acceptance of coat and waistcoat as a dress code for female educators. 2. To identify the final design of coat and waistcoat, as a dress code, for female educators at school level. Methodology: In this study survey and experimental method was adopted. Due to constraint of time, space and money only Kurukshetra district was taken for the selection of respondents. The female educators belonging to schools were selected for the present study. An exhaustive list of one hundred respondents was taken using simple random sampling technique for data collection. Here number of schools is not mandatory. Data was collected with the help of self prepared questionnaire with predefined score. Thirty sketches of coat and thirty sketches of waistcoat were illustrated on the basis of information collected from the pilot survey regarding existing clothing practices of respondents and their preferences for designing. These designs were developed with http://www.euroasiapub.org 135
the help of Reach Fashion Studio, Corel Draw and Adobe Photoshop keeping in mind some criteria s i.e. comfort-ability, color, styling, ease of care, and overall appearance. These sketches of coat and waistcoat designs were shown to the respondents with the help of PowerPoint Presentation and were then evaluated. The scores distribution was 1, 2, 3, 4 for least appealing, appealing, better appealing and highly appealing respectively. Along with designs fabric samples were also shown to the respondents for both waistcoat and coat designs to be stitched. The scores were counted and calculated to evaluate the preference of the designs. The final ranking was given on the basis of average obtained by mean of scores given by the respondents. INTERPRETATION OF DATA: Tables 1.1 Type of dress code comfortable for work place School (100) % Traditional 46.00 Western 8.00 Indo-western 74.00 All 2.00 Table 1.1 shows that the indo-western style of dressing is highly conventional for the respondents. 74 percent educators accept the indo-western style of dressing at school level. As, India is also heading towards westernization, and female educators still dressed up themselves in traditional suits, saris etc. though these dresses sometimes are neither comfortable nor appropriate to fulfill the requirement of their profession. A teaching profession requires active, comfortable, sensible and smart look. Because when a teacher enters the class room her first impression is to gain every student s attention so that they listen to her. Being an educator it is their moral duty, not just to literate the students but to educate them in all aspects of life. So, to keep in pace with the latest technology and trends educators are also looking forward to adopt western formal dressing along with their traditional attire. http://www.euroasiapub.org 136
Tables 1.2 Comfortable dress code for work place School (100) % Suit (in fixed style) 28.00 Sari (in fixed style) 18.00 Waistcoat (with any type of dress) 54.00 Coat (with any type of dress) 50.00 To seek the preference for type of dress code respondents were given four choices. These are suit in a fixed style, sari in a fixed style, waistcoat with any type of dress, coat with any type of dress. In first two options respondents were bounded to wear the same dress every day as mostly students do, but, in last two options respondents were free to wear any type of dress or any color. They were asked to wear just a waist coat in summer and coat in winter as dress code, to get identified as an educator. So, in result the high percentage of educators prefer waistcoat, that is, 54 percent, whereas, coat is preferred by 50 percent at school level. The result of present study is in line with the result of (Kumar, 1999) reported in the article courtly couture about the dresses of royal families. In Calcutta, the sari evolved a style of its own that was the predecessor of the modern-day sari. In the 1870s, a revolutionary new trend was introduced by Gyanodanandini, the sister-in-law of Rabindranath Tagore. She wore her sari over a petticoat and a tailored blouse, sometimes matched with a jacket. Hence, it is proved that indo-western style is not a new concept to be adopted. The result of present study is opposite to the result of (Yadav, N. and Sangwan, N. 2008) conducted a research to develop the Stylized functional salwar-kameez for working women. As working women feel uncomfortable and less active at work place, with some more problems i.e. no provision for keeping belongings, free hang of duattas, problem of tying strings, improper fitting at waist and undesirable styles. For this problem researcher suggest some additional constructional features such as pockets, collars, back yoke, Velcro-tape to fix dupattas, cowl neck for kameez and side zippers, pockets, belt at waist and elastic at back for salwar. These additional constructional features in traditional attire can solve the problem but doesn t look smart and professional. It also ruins the natural grace of our traditional attire. That s why dress code should be something that looks smart as well as professional. So, the present study suggest http://www.euroasiapub.org 137
IJRESSS Volume 3, Issue 2 (March 2013) ISSN: 2249-7382 a waistcoat for summers and coat for winters as a dress code which can provide freedom of wearing any kind and colored dress to the wearer. This dress code also helps in keeping belonging with them and provides more professional look to the wearer. Preferences for waistcoat and coat designs were assessed for all the sixty sketches. On the basis of scores, given by the respondents, top three designs are selected for stitching of waistcoat and coats. With further assessment of stitched designs final dress code for female educators at school level has been achieved. Table 1.3 Preferences for Waistcoat Design (Mean Table) Mean of Preferences for Waistcoat Designs at School level 3.5 3 2.5 2 1.5 1 0.5 0 2.26 1.66 2.3 2.74 2.26 2.72 2.44 1.68 2.02 2.06 1.32 2.1 WCD_1 WCD_2 WCD_3 WCD_4 WCD_5 WCD_6 WCD_7 WCD_8 WCD_9 WCD_10 WCD_11 WCD_12 212 2.12 WCD_13 3.26 WCD_14 Table 1.3 shows the mean of each waistcoatt design at school level. The respondents were asked to give their preferences in the form of least appealing, appealing, better appealing and highly appealing with the score of 1, 2, 3 & 4. The data was then tabulated and calculated by the mean method to get the preferences. Design number 14 get the highest rank, design number 16 get the second highest rank, whereas design number 27 get the third highest rank at school level. These designs were then get stitched by the tailor for final assessment. Out of thirty designs top three designs were selected to get stitched. 2.72 WCD_15 3.18 WCD_16 School 148 1.48 2.76 2.38 2.46 1.86 2.62 1.6 1.26 2 1.2 2.8 1.62 1.52 WCD _ 17 WCD_18 WCD_19 WCD_20 WCD_21 WCD_22 WCD_23 WCD_24 WCD_25 WCD_26 WCD_27 WCD_28 WCD_29 WCD_30 144 1.44 http://www.euroasiapub.org 138
IJRESSS Volume 3, Issue 2 (March 2013) ISSN: 2249-7382 Table 1.4 Preferences for Coat Design (Mean Table) Mean of Preferences for Coat Designs at School levell 3.5 3 2.5 2 1.5 2.48 2.38 2.6 2.36 1.86 2.12 2.4 3.06 2.4 1.92 2.46 2.42 2.94 1.74 2.08 1.94 126 1.26 1.9 2.78 1.92 158 1.58 2.5 3.12 2.38 284 2.84 1.92 1.44 1.92 2.96 2.32 1 0.5 0 CD_1 CD_2 CD_3 CD_4 CD_5 CD_6 CD_7 CD_8 CD_9 CD_10 CD_11 CD_12 CD_13 CD_14 CD_15 CD_16 School CD_17 CD_18 CD_19 CD_20 CD_21 CD_22 CD_23 CD_24 CD_25 CD_26 CD_27 CD_28 CD _ 29 CD_30 Table 1.4 mirrors the mean of each coat design at school level. Similarly, the respondents were asked to give their preferences in the form of least appealing, appealing, better appealing and highly appealing with the score of 1, 2, 3 & 4. The data was then tabulated and calculated by the mean method to get the preferences in each category. Design number 23 get the highest rank, design number 8 get the second highest rank, whereas design number 29 get the third highest rank at school level. Out of thirty designs top three designs were selected to get stitched. Table 1.5 Preferences of Fabric Swatches for Constructionn of Waistcoat Designs 3.00 2.50 2.00 1.50 1.00 0.50 0.00 Mean of Preferences of Fabric Swatches for Construction of Waistcoat Designs at School level 2.83 1.64 2.30 1.46 2.56 2.06 1.36 1.68 2.22 298 2.98 1.22 2.11 School http://www.euroasiapub.org 139
IJRESSS Volume 3, Issue 2 (March 2013) ISSN: 2249-7382 Along with the designs fabric swatches weree also presented among the respondents. As similar to the designs preferences for fabric swatches were also taken and calculated on the basis of mean. Table 1.5 depicts that the fabric swatch number 10 is most preferred by the educators at school level. Fabric swatch number 1, has second highest mean whereas, fabric swatch number 5 has third highest mean at school level for waistcoat designs. Table 1.6 Preferences of Fabric Swatches for Construction of Coat Designs Mean of Preferences of Fabric Swatches for Construction of Coat Designs at School level 4.00 3.46 2.96 2.88 3.00 2.24 2..30 2.42 2.40 1.86 1.86 1.92 2.00 2.28 2.38 School 1.00 0.00 Table 1.6 depicts that the fabric swatch number 6 is most preferred by the educators at school level. Fabric swatch number 2 has second highest whereas fabric swatch number 4 has third highest mean at school level for the construction of coat designs. Table 1.7 Preferences for Final Waistcoat Design as Dress Code at School Level 4 Design No. 14 Design No. 16 Design No. 27 3 2 1 0 Color Styling Ease of careoverall appearance As, the table 1.7 shows that design number 14 get the highest rank, design number 16 get the second highest rank, whereas design number 27 get the third highest rank at school level. These designs were then stitched and presented to the respondents to get the final design as dress code for female educators. Respondents were asked to give rank to each design as 1, 2, 3 & 4 in the http://www.euroasiapub.org 140
IJRESSS Volume 3, Issue 2 (March 2013) ISSN: 2249-7382 form of least appealing, appealing, better appealing and highly appealing respectively. The data was then tabulated and calculated by the mean method to get the preferences for each on the basis of color, styling, ease of care and overall appearance. Design number 27 gets the highest score on every basis. Hence it is the final design approved by femalee educators at school level. Table 1.8 Preferences for Final Coat Design as Dress Code at School Level Design No. 8 Design No. 23 Design No. 29 4 3.5 3 2.5 2 1.5 1 0.5 0 Color Styling Ease of care Overall appearance As, the table 1.8 shows that design number 23 get the highest rank, design number 8 get the second highest rank, whereas design number 29 get the third highest rank at school level. These designs were then stitched and presented to the respondents to get the final design as dress code for female educators. Respondents were asked to give rank to each design as 1, 2, 3 & 4 in the form of least appealing, appealing, better appealing and highly appealing respectively. The data was then tabulated and calculated by the mean method to get the preferences for each on the basis of color, styling, ease of care and overall appearance. Design number 23 gets the highest score on every basis. Hence it is the final design approved by female educators at school level. Design 27: - It is up to hip level, without collar and has flap pockets. It has front opening with single button under the neck to tie. It is most accepted by the educators because it provides flap pockets, which has a flap over welt kind of pocket that can carry some articles like pen, marker, mobile etc., also protect these articles from dropping down or get misplaced. During summers it is quite difficult to wear collars or close fitted necklines, so, without collar garments http://www.euroasiapub.org 141
are preferred. Also, front opening and only single button to tie, provides formal straight look as well as soothing effect in summers. As school teacher especially primary teachers has to change direction time to time for children, as they have small benches according to their height. As table 1.7 shows that in every aspect it scores more than three points which means it is highly appealing to the respondents. Hence, design number 27 can fulfill all the requirements of educators and is comfortable for them at school level. Design 23: - Crotch level coat with lapel collar and double breasted opening. It has welt pockets. It also has reverse effect of fabric. It is most accepted by the educators because it is of tweed fabric which provides warmth. It can carry few articles like pen, marker, mobile etc., also has inner pockets to keep money and other important things. Lapel collar is a flat collar which provides a formal look as well as better for peoples who are suffering from cervical problem. Normally, cardigans or pullover are up to low waist level but this coat is below that which provides more warmth and straighter look. Double breasted look add on more style to wearer s personality. Reverse effect of fabric add on style to the design which differs from the formal s monotonous look. As table 1.8 shows that in every aspect it scores more than three points which means it is highly appealing to the respondents. Hence, design number 23 can fulfill all the requirements of educators and is comfortable for them at school level. RESULTS: It is concluded that design number 27 for waistcoat and design number 23 for coat is finalized by the educators at school level. This dress code also helps in keeping belonging and provides more professional look to the wearer. So, the present study suggest a waistcoat for summers and coat for winters as a dress code which can provide freedom of wearing any kind and colored dress to the wearer. http://www.euroasiapub.org 142
REFERENCES: 1. Kumar, R. 1999. Courtly Couture. HT Magazine, The Hindustan Times, September 26, 1999. pp. 1, 3. 2. Vastard, J.V. and Naik, D.S. 2005. The story of weaving contrast bordered poly cotton sarees. The Textiles Industry and Trade Journal. 43 (3-4) : 63. 3. Vijaylakshmi, S. 1970. Consumer preference in clothing selection. Indian Journal of Home Science. 4 : 119-121. 4. Yadav, N. and Sangwan, N. 2008. Stylized functional salwar-kameez for working women. Textile Trends Vol-1 pp. 26-28. http://www.euroasiapub.org 143