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health Dear Edges: What s Really Goin On? There s snatched and then there s snatched. We ve all heard the warnings: Don t wear your braids or your weaves too tight. Don t rock poofs or buns that pull on your scalp. But beauty is pain, right? Actually, the way you choose to wear your hair should never hurt, explains Dr. Dina D. Strachan, a board-certified dermatologist and director of Aglow Dermatology, who specializes in ethnic skin in New York City. If you are feeling pain, you are likely causing damage to your scalp and hair, she says. But even after seeing how Naomi Campbell s edges went missing a few years ago, many of us still continue to put too much tension on our tresses, which can lead to a type of hair loss known as traction alopecia. Here s how to save your strands from taking that L. By Princess Gabbara 038 www.sesimag.com spring 17
spring 17 039 www.sesimag.com Photo for illustrative purposes: Zoa Photo/Stocksy
Ouch! Avoid getting microbraids as they add extra tension on your natural hair. Q: So, what is traction alopecia, anyway? Traction alopecia is a type of hair loss that is the result of tension on the hair, says Dr. Strachan. Hair is essentially pulled out. In fact, TA is the most common form of hair loss in Black girls and women, affecting about one-third of us. We tend to put more stress and tension (or traction ) on our strands when wearing sleek ponytails, braids, cornrows, weaves, lace fronts, updos, twists, and similar styles. The gradual hair thinning can also be brought on by relaxers, headbands, clips, rollers, constant combing and brushing, and excessive heat. Parting your hair on the same side every day adds tension to your scalp, too. Over time, all that strain can cause your hair follicles to become inflamed, and if bad enough, those same follicles may never grow hair again. Q: Can it be prevented? Thankfully, yes if caught early enough. It is more likely to be reversible if the type of damaging styling has not been done over long periods of time, Dr. Strachan says. So make sure you know the signs: Traction 040 www.sesimag.com spring 17 Photo for illustrative purposes only: istockphoto.com/peopleimages
cornrows, and twists, as long as they re installed loosely. Those protective styles are actually perfect for growing hair and retaining length, since they require hardly any manipulation. Q: Can I wear protective styles back to back? Nah fam. You need to let your hair breathe in between protective styling. Wait at least two to four weeks before installing another style, and never wear your braids or weaves longer than six to eight weeks at a time. Photo/Icon Credit: istockphoto,com/skarin alopecia usually presents as a band of broken hair along the frontal hairline or in the pattern of a particular hairstyle where there was a point of tension. There may also be bald spots, usually in the pattern of a style. Redness, itchiness, tiny bumps or scabs on the scalp or along the hairline, and more dandruff than usual are also red flags. Pay close attention to how a particular style feels to you, too. If, for instance, you pull your hair back into a ponytail and feel a headache coming on or feel discomfort anywhere on your scalp, then your ponytail is too tight. Q: What hairstyles work best for saving my edges? It s not really about the type of style you wear, but how you wear it. You can still post up in all the looks you love, including box braids, Q: I already have traction alopecia. Now what? Without proper treatment, your strand situation can become permanent. The first step is to stop the tension and choose a protective hairstyle, says Dr. Strachan. This alone may correct the problem if there has only been hair breakage. If there has been trauma to the scalp, which has caused inflammation, topical [steroid creams] or intralesional steroid injections can help reduce further damage. It could take anywhere from a month to an entire year for your roots to bounce back, but if your condition isn t chronic, you should start noticing regrowth. Q: What if I end up having permanent damage? Can I still reverse it? Part of the permanent damage caused by [too-tight styles] is the resulting inflammation, which can continue to attack the hair follicles after the style has been discontinued, says Dr. Strachan. Hair transplants are a consideration if the hair follicles are completely destroyed, and there is enough hair from an unaffected area to be used for the patches of hair loss. It s always best to visit your dermatologist sooner than later, so if you start to notice something s up, make an appointment ASAP. Peppermint oil and a simple scalp massage can help improve blood circulation and stimulate hair growth. spring 17 041 www.sesimag.com