Overview This short concave shape incorporates steep graduation, scissor and clipper-over-comb and an inward curve in the parting and crown. The result is a steep, head-hugging, graduated shape supporting a complex array of concave and triangular shapes to create an elegant organic movement through the top. Skill Level Advanced Technical Skills Graduation - Scissor-over-comb - Clipper-over-comb - Layering - Blunt cutting - Point cutting - Freehand cutting - Blow-drying Page 1
Before Julie before the haircut. Step 1 Create a horse-shoe shaped section to establish strength in the perimeter s steep graduated shape. Note: the top section will contain intricate angles which will be sub-sectioned later. Step 2 Begin on the right hand-side and leave out approximately 2cm from the hair line which will be worked on later. Using slight diagonal sections, pull the hair straight out from the head and angle the fingers in towards the hair line to create a steep graduated angle. Step 3 Continue with parallel sections towards the back of the ear using the previous section as a guide, maintaining the same hair and finger angle. Page 2
Step 4 Continue with this technique incorporating the back hairline and on to the round of the head. Note: stay mindful to maintain the diagonal line of the sections which will preserve the steep graduated angle. Step 5 Note how the graduated line sits heavy and parallel around the head. Step 6 Continue with this technique through to the centre-back checking the balance visually as you work. Step 7 Repeat this process on the second side connecting through to the centre-back. Page 3
Step 8 Refine your work using a scissor-over-comb technique. Note: start in the side areas to achieve a balance through to the back, as the sides are the highest point in the graduation. Step 9 Works through behind the ear and into the hairline through to the back. Notice how Stacey works with his eye-line looking down over the comb to ensure a clean edge. Step 10 Work with a clipper-over-comb technique to refine the shape. Step 11 Dry the hair in an upward direction to add volume. Be gentle with the blow-drying to just add a little lift to enhance the shape. Page 4
Step 12 Refine with a clipper-over-comb technique. Step 13 Bring down the top area in small sections following the horse-shoe shape on the left-hand side. Pull the hair down and over-direct to the previous section to maintain weight and to build up the graduation. Note: Stacey point cuts in order to build weight without creating a weight line. Step 14 Repeat this process using parallel sections for four sections. Note: three to four sections are employed dependant on hair thickness and quality. Step 15 Repeat the same process on the second side. Page 5
Step 16 Carefully assess the connection at the back of the head. Step 17 In order to achieve the concave element in the top, carefully assesses the parting placement. Step 18 Place a parting which runs from the crown to the front airline across the curve of the head. Step 19 Take a section approximately 1cm in thickness following the parting and cut a pointed line 2cm in length. This establishes the central guide for each side of the concave shape and pivoted sections in the crown. Page 6
Step 20 On the lower parting side, work with a diagonal section from the short parting section to the front hairline. Use a slicing technique to etch out a concave shape from short to long. Then work with consecutive sections which run back along the parting line. Each section is slightly less acute until they become horizontal and stop this process just before the crown. Step 21 Next, connect the top section with the underneath using a pointing technique establishing a light corner at the round of the head. Step 22 Continue with the connection until just before the crown. Step 23 Work on the other side of the parting establishing a similar concave shape to the lower side. Page 7
Step 24 Use the same technique as on the lower side and work until just before the crown area. Step 25 Connect the crown area using pivoting sections from the centre of the crown. Maintain the same angle as the concave in the top and follow the length of the initial section as a guide. Step 26 Blow dry and iron the hair to create a smooth finish and then refine the shapes by slice-cutting through the top visually. Note: Stacey concentrates his work on the heavier righthand side to reduce volume. Step 27 Refine the areas in front of the ears visually. Page 8
Step 28 Assess the shape for texture and movement and refine visually. Finish The result a steep, head-hugging, graduated shape supporting a complex array of concave and triangular shapes which creates an elegant organic movement through the top. Page 9