Top 10 Designer Jewellery Trends in 2012 Jewellery designs are, in general, as individual and particular as their creators, but general trends arise when designers are influenced and inspired by cultural, economic, and social factors. Most trends are gradual and happen over time, while some occur relatively rapidly. Here s what 2012 has in store. 1Colour As in fashion, the most obvious trend in jewellery design is the use of colour. The colour spectrum can be divided into warm and cool colours. Warm tones include red, orange, and yellow, while the cooler end of the spectrum is represented by blue, green, and purple. The study of colour is vast and includes such topics as colour psychology and colour behaviour. Chromotherapy has been used since ancient times by the Egyptians and Chinese to heal various ailments, and certain coloured gemstones are considered by many to have protective or healing powers. Colour is one of the most important elements in jewellery design. bolero earrings by Vianna. by cynthia unninayar, editor-in-chief, cij trends & colours (www.cijintl.com) The directions for 2012 in terms of designer jewellery can be divided into ten general trends, none of which are dramatically new, but which offer innovative interpretations to styles from the past. For this year, the ten primary directions for designer jewellery are colour, nature-inspired pieces, openwork, alternative materials, hoop earrings, cuffs, organic/eco-jewellery, tassels, edgy, and personalised pieces. citrine, diamond, and gold ring by Magerit. Mutli-coloured gemstone necklace by tresor. 64 INTERNATIONAL FEBRUARY 2012
It is primarily showcased with gemstones, but colour can also come from enamel, various metal treatments, and ceramic, among others. The hottest colour for 2012 in both fashion and jewellery is vivid orange, specifically the Tangerine Tango shade forecast by the Pantone Color Institute. In jewellery, this vivid orange tone is achieved with a variety of gemstones such as citrine, garnet, fire opal, beryl, amber, sapphire, imperial topaz, and carnelian. The second hottest colour this season is an intense rosy-red colour interpreted by sapphire, ruby, rhodolite, rubellite, watermelon tourmaline, Imperial topaz, spinel, rhodochrosite, and garnet, among others. Continuing their popularity, on the cooler end of the colour wheel are the teal-turquoise colours, reflected by TrendRepoRt turquoise, aquamarine, and beryl, as well as the ever-present lime green tones, which are evoked by peridot, tourmaline, and jade. For 2012, colour will take on many forms in all types of jewellery, from vivid single colours with large centre-stone rings, to pastel and tone-on-tone creations, to lively multi-coloured pieces using medium-sized gems or pavé-set jewels. 2 Peridot, tsavorite, gold, and diamond ring by mathon. Inspired by Nature sapphire, diamond, and gold earrings by miiori. Since antiquity, jewellery has been created to denote the natural world. The first pieces were made from easily obtainable materials such as shells, carved wood, stones, and animal teeth. They were originally used as spiritual symbols for example, the scarab in ancient Egypt, or for more functional purposes such as fastening clothing together. Later, this early jewellery was adapted for purely ornamental purposes. During the Victorian period in Britain, romantic views of the natural world created a flourish of nature-inspired jewellery and art. Popular at the time were pieces depicting flowers and animals, especially snakes. It is said that diamond and gold serpent Pendant by mvee/aspire. Queen Victoria herself appreciated snake jewellery, believing the serpent to be a symbol of love and fidelity. Even today, many celebrities can be seen sporting slithery snakes on their necks, arms, wrists, and fingers. The most popular natural designs for 2012 evoke flowers, butterflies, fish and frogs, snakes, and jungle themes, notably tigers. Other motifs include scorpions, leaves, birds, spiders, and a variety of insects, especially ladybugs and dragonflies. In realistic or highly fanciful and stylised designs, jewellery inspired by nature comes in all forms and in a variety of metals, gemstones, ceramic, and other materials. It is a must-have for any jewellery wardrobe. INteRNAtIoNAL FeBRUARY 2012 65
Gold and diamond earrings by seven Joias. Gold and diamond bracelet by ramon. 3One of the most important and recent trends, openwork jewellery is a result of economic influences. As prices of gold and platinum climb higher and higher, jewellery designers innovate with various techniques in order to offer a more luxurious look for less. Today s laser technology and electroforming techniques combine with traditional methods, including filigree and scrolling, to provide inventive and original solutions to the high precious metals prices. Openwork jewellery comes in all types of metals and materials, with or without gemstones, and offers a creative counterpoint to the economic times of the day. Openwork Gold and diamond earrings by bergio. 4 Partly in response to high metals prices, and partly as design elements on their own merit, there has been a surge in alternatives to traditionally used gold and platinum. The most prominent example is silver. Of course, silver is not a new option, and, at one time, it was even valued more highly than gold. Later, it became the mainstay in certain ethnic creations or used in inexpensive pieces, being nearly relegated to the status of costume jewellery. Today, silver is once again recognised as a noble metal, and most major brands are now incorporating a line of designer silver jewellery in their collections. The other alternative white metals are cobalt and palladium, which are increasingly being used in bridal jewellery. The versatility of titanium, steel, enamel, bronze, ceramic, and even wood notably ebony also makes these materials attractive alternatives, with designs ranging from the simple to the sumptuous, either on their own or set with scintillating diamonds and colourful gemstones. Alternative Materials silver earrings by daniel espinosa. diamond and Gold enamelled bracelet by bizzotto. ebony wood, Gold, and diamond earrings by raffaella mannelli. 66 INTERNATIONAL FEBRUARY 2012
TrendRepoRt black and white diamond and Gold hoop earrings by Garavelli. 5 Gold hoop earrings by Katrina Kelly. Hoop Earrings A perennial favourite, hoops have certainly evolved. No longer only round, thin, or in mere metal, hoops have taken on a life of their own. Coming in a multitude of styles and shapes, hoops are now clothed in diamonds, gemstones, and pearls. From simple round forms, they have developed into squares, ovals, oblongs, and even inter-connected geometric forms in a variety of metals and materials. While the once popular chandelier and shoulder-dusting stiletto earrings have come and gone (smaller versions are, however, making a modest comeback, and larger pieces are still seen on the red carpet), the hoop earring has outlasted all other ear wear. A designer s dream to create, the hoop earring occupies an important place in every jewellery wardrobe. smoky quartz, onyx, Gold, and diamond hoop earrings by vianna. Gold, diamond, and sapphire cuff by bapalal Keshavlal. 6 Cuffs Golden philiippine south sea pearl and diamond cuff by Jewelmer. textured Gold cuff by vendorafa. A staple on the red carpet and fashion runways for the 2012 season, cuffs continue their prominent upward trend. Evolving from simple metal bands to highly sophisticated styles smothered in diamonds, gemstones, and pearls, cuffs can be massive or lacy, geometric or textured, thick or thin. Cuffs come in all sizes and shapes in materials such as silver, gold, ceramic, wood, titanium, and enamel. INteRNAtIoNAL FeBRUARY 2012 67
7 Organic/Eco-Jewellery Sliced amethyst geode, gold, and diamond pendant by pamela huizenga. Beginning a few years ago with small artisanal designers, the organic look has definitely become mainstream. Examples include highly textured pieces with free form shapes and dimensions, in metals or in combinations of materials. Offshoots of this particular look are creations made with rough and uncut gemstones and diamonds, unique pieces that incorporate unusual gemstones in their natural state such as crystals or geodes, or in thinly cut slices. The sliced diamond trend that was a hit a few years ago has evolved to include sapphires, emeralds, and other fine gems in designs enhanced with brilliants or pavé-set diamonds and gems. Another aspect of the organic trend is eco-jewellery, that comes in a variety of styles, including more traditional creations, but which all have the common denominator of using metals and gemstones that have been ethically mined and produced. Sliced diamond, gold, and white diamond earrings by nina runsdorf. rough diamond, gold, and Silver cuff by todd reed. gold and diamond bracelet by JaSmine alexander. 8 Edgy In terms of design, jewellery has a dark side, represented by a wide variety of edgy creations, ranging from bullets to barbed wire, from bones to razor blades, from dragons to daggers, from skulls to skeletons, and from guns to ghostly figures. The single most popular motif on the edge is the omniscient skull that is incorporated into rings, pendants, earrings, bracelets, necklaces, brooches, and even into writing instruments. From prestigious pieces set with precious gems and diamonds to simpler silver creations, skulls and other edgy motifs are musthave jewellery and fashion items for many consumers today. diamond and gold razorblade pendant nt by pippo perez. Silver and enamel pen by montegrappa. 68 INTERNATIONAL FEBRUARY 2012
TrendRepoRt 9Tassels The newest trend for 2012 is the tassel. Although it has been around for quite a while, especially in Indian jewellery, the tassel is now being used by designers around the world as an integral part of their collections. Tassels are dazzling as small gemstone beads, with the most popular types being onyx, ruby, spinel, rough diamonds, and diverse types of coloured quartz. But, tassels are also delightful as seed pearls and a multitude of metallic chains. Tassels are generally used in earrings but are also seen in pendants and even rings. Silver and Smoky quartz pendant nt by bastian inverun. ruby, Gold, and diamond tassel earring by a&furst. onyx, Gold, and ruby tassel pendant by Syna. Silver and enamel bead bracelet by amore & baci. 10 Other Trends Not included in this article, but which are important nonetheless in the jewellery industry, are the more traditional types of diamond jewellery such as stud earrings and small pendants, the bread and butter of many retail stores, as well as bridal jewellery, the mainstay of most retailers in the US and Europe, as well as a growing segment in Asia. Pearls are also an important category but are not covered here since they are often used as integral parts of other designs. The huge number of inexpensive freshwater pearls reaching global markets, with nearly all coming from China, has resulted in a surge of pearl jewellery, while at the other end of the pearl price spectrum, the shimmering golden South Sea pearl is enjoying increasing popularity. And, although the red carpet is ablaze with large dazzling necklaces and sumptuous shoulder dusters, these types of pieces are more for celebratory events rather than major trends. Personalised Pieces diamond and Gold enamelled evil eye charm by aaron basha The bead phenomenon that took the jewellery world by storm a few years ago shows no signs of abating as more and more brands are jumping onto the bead bandwagon. But, beads are only one part of the personalised pieces story. The penchant for jewellery that reflects lifestyle, family, travel, emotions, activities, and beliefs, or that commemorates a special occasion, continues into 2012. There is also a growing demand for interchangeable jewellery since colours and design elements can be changed to match an outfit or a mood. Personalised pieces come in all sorts of materials to fit every taste and budget. Gold and diamond pendant by leaderline. INteRNAtIoNAL FeBRUARY 2012 69