Overview Stacey Broughton demonstrates a simple pure and even shape using a classic long uniform layered technique. Mastering this technique will teach you body positioning, correct elevation 90 degrees to the head and finger placement. Stacey uses pivoting sections with the correct disruption of internal and external weight to achieve this face framing, timeless classic.the final result is a super, salon friendly basic haircut drawing on a methodical technical approach. This solid understanding of cutting shape in hair will allow your repertoire to develop with layered shapes. Skill Level Intermediate Technical Skills Blunt Cutting - Body Position - Comb Techniques - Curved Lines - Designs Over a Full Head - Elevation - Finger Position - Layering - Pivoting - Point Cutting - Repeated - Scissor Control - Scissors - Sectioning - Symmetrical - Tension - Uniform Layer - With a Parting - Without a Fringe Page 1
Before Naeya has thick texture, medium density with a wave and a warm Asian skin tone. The hair colour is depth of level 3. Step 1 Section the hair into four quadrants from the tip of the ear to the tip of the ear and then from the centre front to the nape. Step 1 - continued Step 2 Take three small sections in the front, crown and nape to assess the desired length. Page 2
Step 3 Take a small section from the front hairline to the nape to establish the guide for the entire haircut. Step 4 Start in the front hairline pulling the hair at 90 degrees to the head. Check the angle with a comb and cut a line parallel to the head shape. As this is a uniform layer the cutting edge will be round, as it is following the head shape. The fingers mirror the head shape. Step 4 - continued Step 4 - continued Page 3
Step 5 Continue to create the central guide working in small manageable sections using the previous piece as a guide. Step 5 - continued Step 6 Place the comb against the head to check the head shape for the correct finger angle. Step 6 - continued Page 4
Step 7 Once you have established the initial guide, work with the back right-hand side. Step 8 Take a pivoted section from the crown to the nape parallel to the central guide. Step 9 Work in small sections, elevate the hair to 90 degrees, use the previous section as a guide and cut a parallel line. Use the comb to check the curved uniform shape. Step 9 - continued Page 5
Step 9 - continued Step 10 Maintain good posture and body position, placing your elbow high for the correct cutting angle. Step 11 Take a pivoted section using the previous section as a guide. Elevate the hair to 90 degrees and cut a line following the head shape. Use clean, small sections for ease and management of method. Step 11 - continued Page 6
Step 11 - continued Step 12 Continue with pivoting sections throughout this quadrant, leaving a small amount behind the ear. This will be cut at a later point once the balance has been assessed. It is better to establish the correct shape through the back and then check, so that any minor adjustments need only be applied to the back. Step 12 - continued Step 13 Repeat the same process on the second side. Adjust your body position for accuracy, now working with a low elbow. Change your elbow angles as you are cutting a uniform round shape. If you were to cut a line from short to long you would maintain the same elbow positioning. Page 7
Step 13 - continued Step 13 - continued Step 14 Cross check the back area horizontally with the same 90 degree angle. Step 14 - continued Page 8
Step 15 Complete the left out area on the right-hand side behind the ear with the same process, elevating the hair to 90 degrees. Step 15 - continued Step 16 Constantly check the angles and position using the comb. Step 17 Cross check these areas horizontally with 90 degree elevation. Page 9
Step 18 Then repeat the same process on the second side. Step 19 Work on the front right-hand quadrant using the previous section in the back as a guide, 90 degrees elevation and a cutting angle parallel to the head. Step 19 - continued Step 20 Continue working forwards with pivoting sections leaving out the very perimeter approximately 2-3cm for later refinement. Page 10
Step 21 Repeat the same process on the second side pivoting from the same point. This will give you the correct guide length. Step 21 - continued Step 22 Check the balance by taking two small pieces of hair either side and checking the length at the same angle. Step 23 Continue the process on the right-hand side to the front hairline. Page 11
Step 23 - continued Step 23 - continued Step 24 Repeat the same process on the second side. Step 24 - continued Page 12
Step 25 Cross check the top horizontally to clean and refine. If the shape is significantly uneven then it is best to re-section and re-cut with the original method. Step 25 - continued Step 26 Dry the hair straight and visually refine the outlines with a pointing technique. This finishing technique is dependent on taste and suitability. Alternatively, this commercial layered look can be worked with texture. Finish The final result is a super, salon friendly basic haircut drawing on a methodical technical approach. This solid understanding of cutting shape in hair will allow your repertoire to develop with layered shapes. Page 13