Questions & Answers
Contents What is BENTONE GEL MIO V? What is Mineral Oil? What are the major application benefits? Where can BENTONE GEL MIO V be used? How do I incorporate this product into my formulations? What are the typical use levels? How do the rheological properties of BENTONE GEL MIO V differ from that of pure Mineral Oil? Can you demonstrate the applications with some formulation examples? Is testing data available to help show the performance benefits provided by BENTONE GEL MIO V? 1
Q: What is BENTONE GEL MIO V? A: BENTONE GEL MIO V is a dispersion of fully activated BENTONE 38 V, a nonanimal origin hectorite organoclay, in Mineral Oil. It has been designed to impart rheological control and suspension in organic and silicone based cosmetics. BENTONE GEL MIO V is particularly useful in emulsions and can be used in cold process systems. BENTONE GEL MIO V provides the combined benefits of Mineral Oil and hectorite organoclay. The emollient properties of the Mineral Oil combined with the smooth after feel achieved with hectorite organoclay results in a pleasant residual Figure 1. BENTONE GEL MIO V silkiness on the skin, masking greasy or tacky components. The hectorite organoclay also provides thermostable viscosity control and provides thermostable viscosity control. It can also be used as an alternative to traditional polymer or cellulose-based thickeners for stabilising emulsions. The INCI name of BENTONE GEL MIO V is Paraffinium Liquidum, Disteardimonium Hectorite and Propylene Carbonate. Typical Properties Property Appearance Viscosity (MM cps) Ash Content (%) Specification Light Buff 1.4-2.4 (EU) 2.2-3.2 (US) 5.8-6.4 (EU) 5.5-6.5 (US) Total Plate Count 0-100 Table 1. Typical Properties of BENTONE GEL MIO V 2
Q: What is Mineral Oil? Mineral oil is also known as liquid petrolatum and is a by-product in the distillation of petroleum to produce gasoline. It is composed mainly of alkanes (typically 15-40 carbons) and cyclic paraffins, related to white petrolatum. Mineral oil is occlusive, so helps Figure 3. Typical components of mineral oil to form a moisturising barrier on the skin, which helps prevent water from evaporating. It can act as a hair and skin conditioning emollient and cleanser. It can also be used on the eyelashes to prevent brittleness and breaking. Mineral oil has an Emollient Skin Spreading Factor (ESSF) of 6.1, as seen in figure 4, which means that it has good skin spreading properties. Mineral oil has one of the highest interfacial surface tensions, as seen in figure 5. This means that it has a low polarity and is insoluble in water. Figure 4. Emollient skin spreading factor Figure 5. Interfacial surface tension 3
Q: What are the major application benefits? A: The application benefits include: Improved formulation stability, including elevated temperature stability Thickening and suspending Thixotropic rheological flow Enhanced dispersion of actives Rich texture and improved formulation aesthetics Silky skin feel Masks greasy or tacky components Ease of spreading and even coverage Provides emollience Suitable for cold process formulations 4
Q: Where can BENTONE GEL MIO V be used? A: BENTONE GEL MIO V is suitable for various personal care applications. Some formulation examples are listed in this application guide. This product is very easy to incorporate into the oil phase of emulsions, or all oil systems. Applications may include: Haircare products Creams and lotions Emulsions Skincare products Suncare products Eye Make-up Lip products Facial Make-up 5
Q: How do I incorporate the product into my formulations? A: BENTONE GEL MIO V may be added to the oil phase of a formulation at any convenient stage during the manufacturing cycle. This is a very high viscosity, shearthinning product. To ensure good homogeneous mixing is achieved, care should be taken to overcome the large viscosity differential existing between the BENTONE GEL and the other lower viscosity components. The use of medium to high shear mixing equipment is recommended. Thorough mixing of the BENTONE GEL in the oil phase should be ensured before continuing to the next processing step, such as emulsification. Batch Processing Single Phase Systems Always add the BENTONE GEL, under shear, to a portion of the organic component or solvent with which it is most compatible. Mix until homogeneous before adding the other ingredients. Multi-Phase Systems (e.g. emulsions) Treat as with the single phase but always ensure the BENTONE GEL thoroughly mixed in before continuing to the emulsification stage. additive is Continuous Processing The BENTONE GEL should be added to the oil phase at any convenient point, which meets the above guidelines for batch processing. In multimanifold systems, a flowable pre-mix of the BENTONE GEL with a compatible oil or solvent should be made in a side vessel. Where only lower shear mixing equipment is available, stir the BENTONE GEL and slowly add the most compatible component gradually, always ensuring the mixture remains homogeneous at each stage. 6
Q: What are the typical use levels? A: Product use levels depend on the amount of thickening, stabilisation and cushioning emollience desired in the final formulation. Suspension will be provided by concentrations of 2.5-10.0%. In emulsions, thickening will occur only in the oil phase. Emulsion viscosities will be influenced by concentrations of 3-5%. Higher levels of BENTONE GEL will have a greater effect on the viscosity. Thermostable viscosity in single phase systems may be achieved by adding 10-25% to the formulation. Q: How do the rheological properties of BENTONE GEL MIO V differ from that of pure Mineral Oil? A: The flow curves and oscillation curve (frequency sweep) of BENTONE GEL MIO V and Mineral Oil are compared below. BENTONE GEL MIO V is a high viscosity gel, with thixotropic flow behaviour, while Mineral Oil is a low viscosity liquid with almost a constant viscosity when the shear rate is varied. In addition, BENTONE GEL MIO V is a gel with a strong structure and excellent stability. Figure 6. Addition of BENTONE 38 V produces a high viscosity gel, with thixotropic flow behaviour Figure 7. BENTONE 38 V provides excellent stability in Mineral Oil 7
Q: Can you demonstrate the applications with some formulation examples? A: A representative formulation with BENTONE GEL MIO V is listed here to demonstrate the potential applications. Formula 1: Glossifying Hair Pomade Ingredient Supplier % w/w PHASE A BENTONE GEL MIO V (Mineral Oil and Disteardimonium Hectorite and Propylene Carbonate) ELEMENTIS Specialties 3.0 Drakeol 7 (Mineral Oil Penreco 22.0 PHASE B Polychol 15 (Laneth-15) Croda 24.0 Crill 45 (Sorbitan Trioleate) Croda 3.5 Crill 4 (Sorbitan Oleate) Croda 1.0 PHASE C Deionised Water 34.0 Propylene Glycol Dow Corning 12.0 PHASE D Germaben II (Propylene Glycol and Diazolidinyl Urea and Methylparaben and Propylparaben) ISP 0.5 Total 100.0 Procedure 1. Disperse Phase A and heat to 75-80 C. 2. In a separate container combine Phase B and heat to 75-80 C. 3. Add Phase B to Phase A with adequate agitation. 4. Premix Phase C and heat to 70-75 C. 5. Add Phase C to the mixture with high shear mixing until uniform. 6. Add Phase D to the mixture at 70 C. 7. Hot pour into the jar at 70 C. Physical Properties Appearance Glossy light yellow paste ph 4.0-5.0 Viscosity N/A 8
Formula 2: Ethnic Hair Moisturising Cream Ingredient Supplier % w/w PHASE A BENTONE EW (3% Dispersion in Water) (Hectorite) ELEMENTIS Specialties 33.5 Deionised Water 25.5 Ritapan D (D-Panthenol) Rita Corporation 1.0 PHASE B BENTONE GEL MIO V (Mineral Oil and Disteardimonium Hectorite and Propylene Carbonate) ELEMENTIS Specialties 39.0 Drakeol 7 (Mineral Oil) Penreco 25.0 Arlacel 165 (Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate Uniqema 6.0 Lanette O Wax (Cetearyl Alcohol) Cognis 3.0 PHASE C Vitamin E (Tocopherol) BASF 0.5 Germaben II E (Propylene Glycol and Diazolidinyl Urea and Methylparaben and Propylparaben ISP 0.5 Aloe Vera 1:1 (Aloe Barbadenis Leaf Extract) Carribean Aloe Vera 0.2 Total 100.0 Procedure 1. Predisperse Phase A and heat to 70-75 C. 2. Disperse Phase B and heat to 75-80 C. 3. Add Phase B into Phase A using a homogeniser for 15-20 minutes. 4. Cool to 45 C and add Phase C in the order listed. Mix well until uniform. Physical Properties Appearance Off white thick cream ph 6.5 Viscosity - Brookfield DV-II+Pro, Spindle 7, 20 rpm (cps) 45000-50000 9
Formula 3: Hair Relaxer Cream Ingredient Supplier % w/w PHASE A BENTONE GEL Carbonate) MIO V (Mineral Oil and Disteardimonium Hectorite and Propylene ELEMENTIS Specialties 5.0 Carnation (Mineral Oil) Crompton 10.0 Snow White Petrolatum (Petrolatum) UPI 10.0 PHASE B Polarwax NF (Emulsifying Wax) Croda 8.0 Volpo S10 (Steareth-10) Croda 2.5 Crodafos N10N (DEA-Oleth-10 Phosphate) Croda 2.0 Lanette O Wax (Cetearyl Alcohol) Cognis 1.5 PHASE C Deionised Water 51.7 Propylene Glycol Dow Chemical 2.0 PHASE D NaOH 25% Solution 6.8 Germaben II E (Propylene Glycol and Diazolidinyl Urea and Methylparaben and Propylparaben ISP 0.5 Total 100.0 Procedure 1. Disperse Phase A and heat to 75-80 C. 2. In a separate container combine Phase B and heat to 75-80 C. 3. Add Phase B to Phase A with adequate agitation. 4. Premix Phase C and heat to 70-75 C. 5. Add Phase C to mixture with homogenising. 6. Add Phase D, in the order given, to the mixture when temperature reaches 45 C and mix well with low shear. Physical Properties Appearance White cream ph 13 Viscosity 30000-35000 10
Formula 4: Hair Pomade Ingredient Supplier % w/w PHASE A THIXCIN R (Trihydroxystearin) ELEMENTIS Specialties 2.0 Drakeol 7 (Mineral Oil) Penreco 47.5 PHASE B BENTONE GEL Carbonate) MIO V (Mineral Oil and Disteardimonium Hectorite and Propylene ELEMENTIS Specialties 30.0 BENTONE GEL VS-5PC V (Cyclopentasiloxane and Disteardimonium Hectorite and Propylene Carbonate) ELEMENTIS Specialties 10.0 Cropure Avocado (Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil) Croda 5.0 Dow Corning 345 Fluid (Cyclomethicone) Dow Corning 5.0 Vitamin E Acetate (Tocopheryl Acetate) BASF 0.3 PHASE C Unisept P (Propylparaben) Universal Preserv-A-Chem 0.2 Total 100.0 Procedure 1. Disperse Phase A with high shear at 55-60 C for 15-20 minutes. 2. In a separate container combine Phase B and mix until uniform. 3. Add Phase B to Phase A and mix. 4. Cool down to 60 C and add Phase C and mix. Physical Properties Appearance ph Glossy tan gel N/A Viscosity - Brookfield DV-II +Pro, Spindle 7, 20 rpm (cps) 25000-32000 11
Formula 5: Hair Defining Complex Ingredient Supplier % w/w PHASE A BENTONE GEL MIO V (Mineral Oil and Disteardimonium Hectorite and Propylene Carbonate) ELEMENTIS Specialties 1.0 Incroquat Behenyl TMS (Cetearyl Alcohol and Behentrimonium Methosulphate) Croda 4.0 PHASE B Deionised Water 78.4 Glycerine 4.0 Luviskol VA64 Powder (VP/VA Copolymer) BASF 2.0 Propylene Glycol 0.4 PHASE C Dow Corning 345 Fluid (Cyclomethicone) Dow Corning 10.0 PHASE D Paratexin FPX (Phenoxyethanol and Methylparaben and Ethylparaben and Propylparaben and Butylparaben and Isobutylparaben) S. Black Group 0.2 Triethanolamine Honeywell & Stein to ph 5.5 Total 100.0 Procedure 1. Warm Phase A to 70-80 C. 2. In a separate vessel heat Phase B to 75-80 C. 3. Add Phase A to Phase B with silverson homogenising for 20 minutes. 4. With a propeller stirrer add Phase C and cool to 35 C. 5. Add Phase D using a propeller stirrer. Physical Properties Appearance Glossy white cream ph 5.5 Viscosity - Brookfield DV-II +Pro, Spindle 7, 20 rpm (cps) 12000-20000 12
Formula 6: Eyeshadow Stick Ingredient Supplier % w/w PHASE A BENTONE GEL Carbonate) MIO V (Mineral Oil and Disteardimonium Hectorite and Propylene ELEMENTIS Specialties 0.5 Paraffinum Liquidum 15.0 Lexol PG-865 (Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Caprate) Inolex 15.0 C33-115 Brown (C.I. 77491 and C.I. 77492 and C.I. 77499) Sun Chemical 15.0 Magnesium Carbonate 6.0 Kaolin 2.0 PHASE B Paraffinum Liquidum 17.6 Cerezo E626 (Ozerkerite) Barlocher France 6.0 Priolene 6928 (Oleic Acid) Uniqema 4.0 Ceruba T1 (Cera Carnauba) Barlocher France 3.5 BHA Merck 0.2 Propylparaben S. Black Group 0.2 PHASE C Timiron Supersheen MP-1001 (Mica and C.I. 77891) Merck 15.0 Total 100.0 Procedure 1. Warm Phase A to 80 C. 2. Heat Phase B to 80 C. 3. Add Phase B to Phase A and mix. 5. Add Phase C and mix. Physical Properties Appearance ph Viscosity Brown Stick N/A N/A 13
Formula 7: Liquid Soap Ingredient Supplier % w/w PHASE A Deionised Water 51.2 PHASE B Natrosol 250 HR (Hydroxyethylcellulose) Hercules 1.8 PHASE C BENTONE GEL MIO V (Mineral Oil and Disteardimonium Hectorite and Propylene Carbonate) PHASE D ELEMENTIS Specialties 1.0 SERDET DFK 30 (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) ELEMENTIS Specialties 35.0 Tego Betain 50 (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) Evonik Degussa 6.0 Crillet 6 (PEG-20 Sorbitan Isostearate) Croda 3.0 PHASE E Paratexin FPX (Phenoxyethanol and Methylparaben and Ethylparaben and Propylparaben and Butylparaben and Isobutylparaben) S. Black Group 2.0 Total 100.0 Procedure 1. Warm Phase A to 50 C. 2. Using a propeller stirrer, or silverson homogeniser, and Phase B and mix until homogeneous. Continue to stir while cooling until the solution is clear. 3. Add Phase C to the main mix with propeller stirring, or a silverson homogeniser. 4. Add Phase D with stirring. 5. Add Phase E using a propeller stirrer, at under 35 C. Physical Properties Appearance Clear to cloudy gel ph 5.5 Viscosity - Brookfield DV-II, Spindle 7, 12 rpm (cps) 30000-35000 14
Q: Is testing data available to help show the performance benefits provided by BENTONE GEL MIO V? A: Experimental data has been obtained by testing the formulation, with and without BENTONE GEL MIO V. Apparent performance benefits are demonstrated here. BENTONE GEL MIO V in Glossifying Hair Pomade (Formula 1) 3% BENTONE GEL MIO V in this leave-on product improved the overall appearance of the formulation, while increasing thermostability. The incorporation of the organoclay gave a soft and less greasy feel to the hair, along with good definition and style management. Figure 8 shows a temperature rotation curve. The sample without organoclay loses viscosity from about 40 C, whereas the sample with BENTONE GEL MIO V kept an almost constant viscosity until about 55 C. The temperature oscillation curve in figure 9 shows that the sample without organoclay underwent a phase change at 40 C, which would indicate instability, whereas the sample with BENTONE GEL MIO V was stable up until 60 C. The stability prediction was confirmed in the storage stability testing, as the sample without organoclay showed separation at 45 C after 3 months storage stability. Figure 8. Temperature rotation curve for formulations with and without BENTONE GEL MIO V Figure 9. Temperature oscillation comparison for formulations with and without BENTONE GEL MIO V 15
BENTONE GEL MIO V in Ethnic Hair Moisturising Cream (Formula 2) The BENTONE GEL MIO V gave a base viscosity to the formulation combined with easy application, thermostability and improved long term storage stability, and good definition and style management. BENTONE GEL MIO V in Hair Relaxer (Formula 3) The BENTONE GEL MIO V gave improved rheological properties, with increased body and easy spreading, due to the thixotropic nature. The BENTONE GEL MIO V also helps to improve thermostabiity and long term storage stability. BENTONE GEL MIO V in Hair Pomade (Formula 4) The BENTONE GEL MIO V gave a good base viscosity to the formulation. It gave a combination of easy application, with good definition and style management. BENTONE GEL MIO V in Hair Defining Complex (Formula 5) The incorporation of BENTONE GEL MIO V into this formulation helped improve the stability and enrich the formulation. Half head salon assessments were carried out on the formulation with and without organoclay. The results, shown in figure 10, showed increased adsorption onto the hair, while also enhancing the overall appearance, eliminating stickiness and smoothing the hair cuticle to provide a soft feel, combined with good curl definition and style management. Figure 10. Half head salon evaluation 16
BENTONE GEL MIO V in Eyeshadow Stick (Formula 6) The incorporation of BENTONE GEL MIO V improved overall skin feel and application properties. BENTONE GEL MIO V in Liquid Soap (Formula 7) The presence of BENTONE GEL MIO V in this formulation gave a silky feel to the skin during and after application as well producing a creamier foam. In figure 11 we can see the time dependent recovery curve for the liquid soap. In the first part of the curve the sample is being exposed to 0.1 s -1. In the second phase the shear rate is 1000 s -1 and in the third phase the shear rate is returned to 0.1 s -1. In the third phase we can see that the original viscosity is not reached immediately. The viscosity is only fully recovered after 100 seconds, meaning that the product is thixotropic, which gives the liquid soap good application properties. Figure 11. Time dependent recovery curve for liquid soap 17
Before using any of our products please consult our Safety Data Sheets. The information in this publication is, to the best of our knowledge, true and accurate, but since the conditions of use are beyond our control, no warranty is given or to be implied in respect of such information. In every case, caution must be exercised to avoid violation or infringement of statutory obligations and any rights belonging to a third party. We are, at all time, willing to study customers specific outlets involving our products in order to enable their most effective use. Copyright 2008, Elementis Specialties, Inc. All rights reserved. Copying and/or downloading of this document or information therein for republication is not allowed unless prior written agreement is obtained from Elementis Specialties, Inc. Registered trademark of Elementis Specialties, Inc. For more details please contact: AMERICAS Elementis Specialties P.O. Box 700 Hightstown New Jersey 08520 USA Tel: +1.609.443 2500 Fax: +1.609.443 2446 EUROPE Elementis Specialties De Kleetlaan 12a 1831 Diegem Belgium Tel: +32.2.790.7600