eyes 2017 October a RIMS MEDIA magazine for all optical retailers Fashion: Retro Revisited Business: First Impressions: Store Display Dispensing: Luxury Lenses
PRODUCTS 9 Ridgeway Optical Supplies/Westgroupe. Drawing inspiration from the latest fashion runway trends, the latest FYSH UK collection features intricate natural, animal and abstract patterns elevated by bright colours and raised effects. The centerpiece of the collection is model F-3590, a sexy square shaped acetate frame proposed in four unique colour patterns that are inspired by the shimmer and shine of metallic fi bres. The metallic brow is coupled with a crystal bottom providing for a futuristic, gradient effect. Available in crystal gold, crystal white, crystal rose and black. Dunelm Optical are manufacturing their own Spectre range of freeform, progressive lenses offering savings over similar performing products. Additions start from 050 up to 4.50 and corridor lengths starting at 10mm. Using IOT technologies including the innovative new Camber and advanced Digital Ray Path technology, alongside Surface Power and Smart Add, Dunelm can create complex, personalised lenses of the highest quality, standard and precision. The range starts with single vision lenses, followed by the soft design Bronze lens, Silver, Gold and their premium Platinum lens with variable base curve. Additional lenses specially designed for visual fatigue, offi ce work, driving and sport are also available. Additionally, UV3G, new UV Protection 3rd Generation is available with Spectre Silver and Spectre Gold lenses. Norville s Dana Buchmann range has added two new models to its collection. Glennora and Susette are chic designs, especially suitable for mature women with contemporary styling and generous lens depths. Each frame comes in three colour selections. Glennora (pictured) is a full rim metal frame, in berry gold, black gold and midnight available in 50/17 and 53/17 eyesizes. Each frame comes with its very own cream-coloured, crocodile pattern case. ONE STOP OPTICAL SHOP Edging Solutions Bespoke Magnetic Clip On * De Rigo s Police brand has launched its Quiet Rebels campaign with the subjects surrounded by real people and situations. The shots are conceived with the aim of celebrating the spontaneity and dynamism of the Modern Alphas, with a preference for natural expressions, while the sets have been replaced by thoroughfares in the heart of the city. This campaign is just the fi rst step that the brand is taking to begin a process of dialogue and collaboration with the Modern Alphas, the people who more than any other will infl uence the world we live in tomorrow. Consumables Same Day Despatch Lens Cleaning Experts Next Day Delivery *fits any frame old or new just send the frame to Mainline with completed order form. Tel: 01377 257752 www.ml-oc.com
16 FA S H I O N With the catwalks bursting with historical references this Autumn, it is no wonder that vintage style is once again enjoying centre stage in the eyewear industry. eyes finds out more. The journey that vintage fashion is taking has progressed to incorporate the 80s and 90s as with this model BB6043 from Eyespace antique ique accents There s a 40 s feel to these sunglasses from Silhouette; this is model 9909 6050, Arthur Arbesser for Silhouette Crystal acetate adds a modern feel to this vintage style, model Ortisei C033, part of the Safarro collection at Coti Vision EY_Fashion.indd 16 03/10/2017 16:40
FA SHION17 Issued to celebrate the 80th anniversary of Polaroid Eyewear, this model 6037/s from Safilo recalls a style created for the brand in the late 40 s. Caption: BOLD To celebrate Julbo s 125th anniversary, the company has reissued its classic vintage model Vermont. This is the company s traditional mountaineering model with round lenses and side shields. The Serge Kirchhofer brand from Brando Eyewear pays homage to the construction techniques and aesethics of the 70s, with inspiration drawn from the designer s archive. This is model SK2006. Vinyl Factory celebrates vintage American looks. This season, vintage references have abounded in the fashion industry with nods to everything from Edwardian equestrian to T40 s suiting. There have been Joan Crawford style nipped in waists and padded shoulders and 70 s pant suits in corduroy. Fashion then has a key role to play in vintage s proliferation in eyewear. We see the recent resurgence of retro trends in modern styling through all aspects of fashion today. This naturally has impacted heavily on eyewear; combinations today create eyewear which is familiar, yet stylish and original, says Nancy Black, Director of Coti Vision. Marchon s spokesperson agrees: Fashion creatives and fashionistas have been inspired by different vintage styles for several years. It is bold, unique, and really makes a fashion statement. Chloe have continued to be inspired by the 70s bohemian feel with oversized frames and Calvin Klein s newly appointed Creative Chief, Raf Simons has taken age-old Hollywood direction to get go. They are forever inspired by vintage trends. NOSTALGIC APPEAL Vintage it seems, never gets old, but reasons for its popularity go further than fashion. The vintage trend has an on going appeal as it is unique and consumers feel like the quality is often superior to modern products. Nostalgia also plays a part in the appeal, vintage styles are familiar and evoke sentimental memories of the past, reminiscing back to the good old days, says Olivia Young, Marketing Manager at International Eyewear. A spokesperson for Area98 design team is also convinced that vintage is a strong direction this Autumn: Consumers are looking more and more for frames that are unique and different but timeless at the same time. Choosing a vintage-inspired frame with a modern twist is the perfect solution. And in the current climate, there is an even more pervasive Elegant 50s style and colour way, reason for the popularity of vintage: In times of turbulence courtesy of model Stewart by people often look back to eras gone by for escapism. The post-war Kenmark Eyewear exuberance of the 1950s, the hippie styling of the 1960s and the iconic punk look of the 1970s all offer a fun fashion throwback which people can t help but indulge in, believes Emily Andrews, Product Director, Eyespace. Clean, classic and timeless, SALT. Model Kelly. CURRENT STORIES So what should we be looking out for in terms of style directions? Vintage looks in general are extremely popular, however styles from three particular decades are particularly popular this season. The Art Deco 20s era, 50 s styles and 80 s aviators, reports Karen Parsons, Head of Marketing, Silhouette UK. Certainly the high joints and upswept shapes with smaller eye sizes continue to offer consumers a stylish nod to the 50 s. Round shapes are here to stay and are having a resurgence in the fashion world but upswept shapes with a stylish nod to the 1950 s and chunky design features are gaining popularity as we move into the Autumn/Winter fashion season, adds Oliver Beaumont, Regional Sales and Product Development Director, Dunelm. v
18 FA SHION Flattering designs that maintain the retro aesthetic and are comfortable to wear; models HE4259 C2 and HE4260 C1 from International Eyewear There s a strong 70 s feel to this double-bridged frame, model E-9166 col. 945, EVATIK collection, distributed in the UK by Ridgway Optical Supplies (by Westgroupe) A smart update on the classic 70 s double bridge; model RR049.01, part of the Robert Rüdger collection, Area98 Pretty, feminine diamante detail from Jacques Lamont, model JL 1290 from Continental Eyewear Retro 375 C2 Black/Silver from Dunelm is a traditional design with bold features and a nod to the 70 s. MALE MOODS Meanwhile, particularly for men, larger proportioned frames have an unmistakable touch of the 60 s. P3 shapes, Malcolm X styles, also called browline, and cable temples and Windsor rims all make the grade. During our recent trip to New York, our Head of Marketing conducted research around optician practices based not only in Manhattan but also around Brooklyn an area known for its affi nity for retro fashions. Most practices were displaying acetate and plastic round eyes with various quirks about them and we have defi nitely taken this into consideration by adding further round eyes, key hole bridges and a dash of colour in unexpected places, says Paul Gaba, Managing Director, Louis Stone. 70s LOOKS Meanwhile other chunky and outsize features clearly reference the 70 s. The most popular looks this season include see through aviator style frames that give off a modern John Lennon vibe, along with bold coloured wayfarers, nerdy retro infl uenced clear frames, contemporary cat-eye shapes, and round frames that appear to fl oat on the face, reveals Marchon s spokesperson. Colour tinted sun lenses also speak loudly of the 70s. Louise Brunton, General Manager, Charmant believes that many of the shapes we see are infl uenced by past periods fi ltered through the medium of television. Much of today s media and drama seem to favour the 50 s, 60 s and 70 s for their settings using the highly stylised fashion statements of those days, perhaps because the following decades became so much more subdued, she says. VINTAGE COLOUR While shapes pay clear homage to past designs, current frames tend to use colour to update and freshen vintage, removing any hint of pastiche in favour of something that feels more modern and on-trend. Our focus is on retro inspiration delivering modern shapes and refreshing colours. It is the choice of colour that is added to a classic frame to make it modern, explains Black of Coti Vision. Of course, classic vintage looks tend to favour the more traditional colours of blacks, tortoiseshell and horn but keep an eye out too for crystals and barely there acetates. Bold colours, block colours and prints also return, along with yellow tinted retro frames, again inspired by the 70s hippy era, along with blushes, burnt oranges, and mustards. Transparent light pinks, yellows, brown are also trending. Tortoiseshell has made a comeback this year and works very well with retro inspired styles. Amber and nude tones are also colours that are infl uenced by the
FA SHION19 Elegant upswept cats eye with a 50 s feel from Elle, model13415 in black, Charmant Retro inspired rounds are proving popular with male wearers, this is Dutz model 444. Exquisite diamante detailing gives a vintage feel to this Salvatore Ferragamo frame, model SF2799R 603, from Marchon Mondottica s Pepe Jeans men s range draws on the classicism of a 70s preppy look. Model PJ3281. There s a distinctively 50 s feel to this model Braeburn, part of the Seraphin collection by Ogi Eyewear v
20 FA SHION With a 60s feel this No Fear model 8016 from Emporium Eyewear is updated with a navy colouring and high gloss fi nish. past. On the metal front, antique fi nishes, gold, silver and pewter are all classic hues that lend well to vintage styling, say Beverly Suliteanu, WestGroupe Vice President of Product Developments. Nicky Clement, Marketing Manager, Eyespace, adds: As we head towards 2018, material colour-fusions are being enhanced, eye shapes have been exaggerated and, with retro metallics making a return, the shimmer-season will kick-in long before Christmas. OLD LOOKS, NEW MATERIALS As with colours, so with materials. Advances in material performance have meant that many traditional vintage styles, especially heavy chunky frames can be reinvented without sacrifi cing comfort. Modern day materials and advancements in materials have helped pave the way for more varied and fl attering designs that maintain the retro aesthetic, as well as allowing frames to be more comfortable to wear. Modern production techniques have stretched the boundaries of acetate materials to create thinner, lighter frames, perfect for creating slim profi le frames to provide a more Strong silhouettes reminiscent of the 70s feature in this season s Police collection from De Rigo Retro style double bridge frame from Louis Stone, model i wear 6074. discreet look, says Rosemary Morton, Head of Product at International Eyewear. Chelsey Wright, Designer at Ogi Eyewear agrees: The main goal in designing vintage styles is to not sacrifi ce comfort and ergonomics while still pushing an eye catching aesthetic that resembles the iconic styles of yesteryear. And Parsons of Silhouette adds: Innovations in terms of materials are key to ensure that consumers can enjoy vintage styles but with all the convenience of modern technology and manufacturing techniques. KEY DETAILS When we talk about details, it is inevitable that attention turns to 50 s styling when detailing was perhaps at its zenith. Stones or gems inserted at the corner of a cat eye style are some really popular detailing features right now harkening back from the 50 s, notes Wright of Ogi Eyewear. Other vintage details to look out for include keyhole bridges or double bridges. Some of the vintage detailing seen in this season s eyewear collections are horn and tortoise prints and patterns as well as textured effects like wood grain and antique fi nishes. Keyhole bridges, rivet hinges, delicate fi ligree laser patterns are all popular in vintage styling says Suliteanu of WestGroupe. And as far as Gaba of Louis Stone is concerned, it s all about the 70 s. Psychedelic patterns are often popular but also taking a simple colour, (let s say charcoal black for example) and maybe adding a bright shade to its inner rims and the inside of temples, he says. FOREVER VINTAGE While this Autumn has been particularly strong for vintage styling, there seems to be no sign that its popularity is abating moving into 2018. I think that vintage styling is here to stay and will keep re-inventing itself as trends are infl uenced by fi lms, the media and role models, says Brunton of Charmant. Wright of Ogi Eyewear agrees: Fashion eyewear, like every other fashion medium, perpetually recycles itself. Tortoiseshell colouring and round frames create the perfect retro feel. Model Zana+Max ZM038 from Sightcare