Beauty and Personal Care Consumer Solutions The Formulation Lab: Skin, Sun and Color A selection of products from Dow
Table of Contents 3- Product Benefits and 5-6 Product Details 7 Technical Details: Silicone Emulsifiers 8 Silicone Emulsifier Map Skin, sun and color solutions Today s consumers expect increasingly sophisticated products that answer all of their perceived needs for skin care, sun care and color cosmetics. To make an impact, you need a reliable source for the latest expertise and laboratory support. You need an industry leader that can anticipate trends and ever-changing consumer preferences so you can stay well ahead of the competition. Dow has decades of experience developing performanceenhancing technologies that can help you develop innovative formulations and preempt the whims and demands of your market. With our silicone solutions, you can create products that spread easily for smoother, easier application, with even pigment dispersion products that retain their features and last longer than others currently on the market. We can help you minimize the tacky or greasy feel of other ingredients and create products that are light, are soft and exhibit a silky feel, both during and after application. How to use this guide To use the Product Benefits and table, select the benefit most important for your application and use the table to identify which products offer which levels of benefit. Alternatively, refer to the Product Details table to review products by type and read detailed benefits of each product for skin, sun and color applications. Product options available This guide contains selected and XIAMETER brand products for color cosmetics, skin care and sun care applications. Not all available products are included. Contact your Dow representative for information regarding other products that may be suitable for your application. pg 2
Product Benefits and Formulation Benefits/ Skin Benefits/ Sun Benefits/ Appearance Sensorial Protection Color Benefits/ Silicone Forms and Product Names Emulsifier Film-Forming Agent Texture Builder Gloss/Shine Matte Finish Sebum or Oil Absorption Imperfection Masking/ Soft Focus Reduced Greasiness Enhanced Spreadability Powdery/Smooth Moisturization Wash-Off SPF 2 (oil-in-water) SPF 2 (water-in-oil) Wash-Off (oil-in-water) Increased Color Intensity/Uniformity Flexibility Color Durability Color Nontransfer LIQUID FZ-396 Fluid 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid 5200 + ES-5226 DM 3 + ES-562 + 5 ES-5300 + ES-5600 Silicone + Glycerol Emulsifier BY 25-337 + 5 ES-5373 XIAMETER PMX-502 Fluid XIAMETER PMX-503 Fluid FA 002 ID Silicone Acrylate 6 FA 003 DM Silicone Acrylate FC-5002 IDD Resin Gum 7 390 Liquid Satin Blend 8 9 0 Benefit level: Good Better Best Tested as neat product, not in a formulation. 2 SPF ranking is based on a specific emulsion formulation. 3 Also available in a nonvolatile carrier ( 5 cst) as ES-5227 DM. Stabilizes water-in-silicone emulsions, which are less greasy than water-in-oil. 5 Via stabilization of high-glycerin-content emulsion. 6 Also available in an alternative carrier (Cyclopentasiloxane) as FA 00 CM Silicone Acrylate. 7 Also available in an alternative carrier (Cyclopentasiloxane) as FC-500 CM Resin Gum or in an alternative carrier (.5 cst) as FC-500 DM Silicone Resin Gum. 8 Stringy texture. 9 Smooth/silky feel. 0 Perceived. + See Technical Details: Emulsifiers table for more details regarding texture impact. (table continues on next page) pg 3
Product Benefits and (continued) Silicone Forms and Product Names Formulation Benefits/ Emulsifier Film-Forming Agent Texture Builder SOLID MQ-600 Solid Resin MQ-60 Flake Resin 250 Cosmetic Wax 2503 Cosmetic Wax SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles 970 Cosmetic Powder EP-980 Hydro Cosmetic Powder PASTE EL-92 DM Silicone Elastomer Blend EL-920 Silicone Elastomer Blend EL-8050 ID Silicone Organic Elastomer Blend 3 EL-700 Hydro Elastomer Blend 9576 Smooth Away Elastomer AQUEOUS 9509 Silicone Elastomer Suspension 5 HMW 2220 Non-Ionic Emulsion FA 03 Silicone Acrylate Emulsion Gloss/Shine Skin Benefits/ Appearance Sensorial Protection Matte Finish Sebum or Oil Absorption Imperfection Masking/Soft Focus Reduced Greasiness Enhanced Spreadability Powdery/Smooth Moisturization 5 6 Wash-Off Sun Benefits/ SPF 2 (oil-in-water) SPF 2 (water-in-oil) Wash-Off (oil-in-water) Increased Color Intensity/Uniformity Color Benefits/ Flexibility Color Durability Color Nontransfer Benefit level: Good Better Best Tested as neat product, not in a formulation. 2 SPF ranking is based on a specific emulsion formulation. 3 Also available in an alternative carrier (Isodecyl Neopentanoate) as EL-805 ID Silicone Organic Elastomer Blend or in an alternative carrier (Isohexadecane) as EL-8052 IH Silicone Organic Elastomer Blend. Also available with Chlorphenesin + Phenoxyethanol preservative as PF-950 Silicone Elastomer Suspension and with Phenoxyethanol preservative as BY 29-9. 5 In water-in-silicone. 6 Perceived. EL-700 Hydro Elastomer Blend has the ability to incorporate water and glycerin within the gel structure. pg
Product Details Product Type Specialty Fluids Acrylates Resins Gum Blends Silicone Waxes Product Name INCI Name Key Benefits in Skin Care FZ-396 Fluid 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid FA 002 ID Silicone Acrylate 2 FA-003 DM Silicone Acrylate FA 03 Silicone Acrylate Emulsion MQ-60 Flake Resin MQ-600 Solid Resin FC-5002 IDD Resin Gum 3 XIAMETER PMX-502 Fluid XIAMETER PMX-503 Fluid 250 Cosmetic Wax 2503 Cosmetic Wax SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax Caprylyl Methicone Phenyltrimethicone Isododecane (and) Acrylates/Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer (and) Acrylates/Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer Acrylates/Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate (and) Laureth- Phosphate Trimethylsiloxysilicate (and) Polypropylsilsesquioxane Trimethylsiloxysilicate Isododecane (and) Trimethylsiloxysilicate/ Dimethiconol Crosspolymer C-3 Isoparaffin (and) Dimethiconol (and) Isohexadecane (and) (and) Dimethiconol BIS-PEG-8 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane Stearyl (and) Octadecene C30-5 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane Good compatibility with organic oils Moderate volatility High flash point Excellent spreadability Improved spreadability of organic oils Reduced greasiness (mineral and vegetable oils) Unique light and smooth feel Good compatibility with organic oils Gloss Pleasant skin feel Protection against pollution in specific water-in-silicone emulsions Protection against pollution in specific water-in-oil emulsions Sebum resistance Water resistance Sebum resistance Water resistance Skin-tightening sensation Water resistance Sebum resistance Film barrier properties Light velvety feel Good oil compatibility Film barrier properties Long-lasting lubricious, velvety feel Reduced tackiness of glycerin Perception of skin smoothness for peel-off mask Suitable for translucent skin toner Melt at body temperature Moisturization Wash-off resistance Semiocclusive Good compatibility with organic oils Structuring agent Good compatibility with organic oils Blur effect in combination with particles Protection against pollution in specific oil-in-water emulsions Fragrance retention Semiocclusive Additional Benefits in Sun Care water-in-oil Anti-stick; anti-whitening; SPF boosting oil-in-water Good compatibility with UVA filters Wash-off resistance SPF boosting water-in-oil oil-in-water SPF ranking is based on a specific emulsion formulation; water-in-silicone or -oil emulsions typically provide high wash-off resistance. 2 Also available in an alternative carrier (Cyclopentasiloxane) as FA 00 CM Silicone Acrylate. 3 Also available in an alternative carrier (Cyclopentasiloxane) as FC-500 CM Resin Gum or in an alternative carrier (.5 cst) as FC-500 DM Resin Gum. Reduced tackiness Improved wash-off resistance in oil-in-water sun care Improved wash-off resistance in oil-in-water; SPF boosting in water-in-oil Additional Benefits in Color Care Improved gloss and color intensity in lipstick; dispersing media for hydrophobic pigments; good cleansing Pigment-dispersing fluid Silicone dendrimer acrylate (0%) in isododecane; hard film; long lasting; transfer resistance; wash-off resistance; good oil compatibility Silicone dendrimer acrylate (0%) in dimethicone; high film flexibility; long-lasting color; rub-off resistance Silicone dendrimer acrylate (30%) in water; high film flexibility; long-lasting color and rub-off resistance; ideal for waterborne formulations MQ and T-propyl resin (no carrier); flexible; durable; nontransfer; wash-off resistance; good color intensity/uniformity MQ resin (no carrier); hard film; long lasting; nontransfer; washoff resistance Silicone resin gum (0%) in isododecane; improves transfer resistance of mascara; improves compaction in pressed powder; long lasting; rub-off resistance Transfer resistance; uniform appearance of powder products (table continues on next page) pg 5
Product Details (continued) Product Type Silicone Elastomers Emulsions Aerogel HMW Branched Polymers Powders Blends Suspensions Divinyl Dimethyls Blends Product Name INCI Name Key Benefits in Skin Care VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles 970 Cosmetic Powder EP-980 Hydro Cosmetic Powder EL-920 Silicone Elastomer Blend EL-92 DM Silicone Elastomer Blend EL-8050 ID Silicone Organic Elastomer Blend 2 EL-700 Hydro Elastomer Blend 9576 Smooth Away Elastomer 9509 Silicone Elastomer Suspension 3 HMW 2220 Non-Ionic Emulsion 390 Liquid Satin Blend Silica silylate /Vinyl Crosspolymer (and) Silica /Vinyl Crosspolymer (and) Silica (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Crosspolymer (and) Crosspolymer Isododecane (and) /Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer Caprylyl Methicone (and) PEG-2 / PPG-20 Crosspolymer (and) /Vinyl Crosspolmer (and) Crosspolymer (and) Beeswax (and) Silica (and) Silica Silylate /Vinyl Crosspolymer (and) C2- Pareth-2 Divinyldimethicone/ Copolymer (and) C2-C3 Pareth-23 (and) C2-C3 Pareth-3 (and) /Vinyl Crosspolymer Sebum absorption Thickening of oil phase (polar to nonpolar oils) Wrinkle masking/soft focus Wrinkle masking/soft focus Sebum absorption Powdery feel Viscosity builder in water-in-silicone High oil absorption Wrinkle masking/soft focus Sebum absorption Powdery feel Water dispersible Matte effect Carrier: 2 cst Silky feel Viscosity builder Reduced greasiness Smooth, silky long-lasting feel Increased viscosity of anhydrous or water-in-oil formulations Binder for compact powder Nonvolatile carrier: 5 cst Reduced greasiness Good oil compatibility Dry silky feel Increased viscosity Clear formulations Reduced greasiness Can incorporate water, water-soluble and organic ingredients Fresh feel with elastomer texture Gel texture with up to 50% water and 0% glycerin Clear system Allows creation of fast-breaking emulsion Minimized appearance of pores Masking of fine lines, wrinkles, lip lines Water-based and anhydrous systems Processing time advantage Unique texture Smooth feel Sebum control Ease of dispersion Smooth, silky feel Mattifying Wrinkle masking/soft focus Viscosity builder in water-in-silicone Wash-off resistance Smooth skin feel Enhanced foam in shower gels Increased viscosity of water-in-silicone Moisture perception in leave-on and rinse-off applications Stringy texture High lubricity and gloss Smooth, satin-like feel Perceived moisturization Additional Benefits in Sun Care Excellent fit for sun care water-in-oil Additional Benefits in Color Care Increased color intensity in lipstick Improved color intensity in foundation Good film integrity SPF ranking is based on a specific emulsion formulation; water-in-silicone or -oil emulsions typically provide high wash-off resistance. 2 Also available in an alternative carrier (Isodecyl Neopentanoate) as EL-805 ID Silicone Organic Elastomer Blend or in an alternative carrier (Isohexadecane) as EL-8052 IH Silicone Organic Elastomer Blend. 3 Also available with Chlorphenesin + Phenoxyethanol preservative as PF-950 Elastomer Suspension and with Phenoxyethanol preservative as BY 29-9. pg 6
Technical Details: Silicone Emulsifiers Product Type Product Name INCI Name Carrier Dispersed Material HLB (calculated) Use Level (%) 80/20 70/30 60/0 SPF Boosting Pigment Dispersant Additional Benefits 5200 Lauryl PEG/ PPG-8/8 Methicone No No 2-2 2-3-6 Water-in-wax systems ES-5226 DM (and) PEG/PPG-8/8 2 cst (volatile) Yes (37-0%) 2 3-5 5-8 5-2 Water-in-Oil ES-562 ES-5300 ES-5600 Silicone Glycerol Emulsifier BY 25-337 PEG-0 Lauryl PEG-0 Tris- (trimethylsiloxy)- silylethyl Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris- (Trimethylsiloxy)- silylethyl PEG/PPG-9/9 (and) C3-6 Isoparaffin (and) C0-3 Isoparaffin No No 2-3 3-5 5-8 Can stabilize high level of glycerin; stable lowviscosity pigmented emulsions No No 3 2-3 3-5 5-8 Reduced whitening in sun care applications; stable lowviscosity pigmented emulsions No No 2-3 3-6 5-8 Reduced whitening in sun care applications; stable lowviscosity pigmented emulsions C3-6 Isoparaffin (and) C0-3 Isoparaffin Yes (8-52%) 3 2-2-6 6-8 Can stabilize high level of glycerin Product Type Product Name INCI Name Carrier Dispersed Material HLB (calculated) Oil Phase (%) Emulsifier (%) SPF Boosting Pigment Dispersant Additional Benefits Oil-in-Water ES-5373 PEG-2 No No 8 20-30.5-2 30-5 2-5-55-5 Offers benefits. Also available in a nonvolatile carrier ( 5 cst) as ES-5227 DM. NOTES: All emulsifiers <0.% D and D5. All emulsifiers to be used for skin, sun, color. pg 7
Silicone Emulsifier Map Texture Thick Cream/Gel BY 25-337 ES-5226 DM 5200 Fluid Lotion ES-5300 ES-562 ES-5600 Silicone Glycerol Emulsifier Silicones Silicones & Organics Organics Also available in a nonvolatile carrier ( 5 cst) as ES-5227 DM. Oil Phase Flexibility How can we help you today? Create Innovations with Dow Accelerating innovation to the point of differentiation with finished product concepts for brand owners around the world. When you need industry-leading innovation, we can help with specialty materials, collaborative problem-solving and innovation support. Learn how we can help you bring your products to the point of differentiation at consumer.dow.com. Images: Cover dow_0237883383; Page 2 dow_0580323 HANDLING PRECAUTIONS PRODUCT SAFETY INFORMATION REQUIRED FOR SAFE USE IS NOT INCLUDED IN THIS DOCUMENT. BEFORE HANDLING, READ PRODUCT AND SAFETY DATA SHEETS AND CONTAINER LABELS FOR SAFE USE, PHYSICAL AND HEALTH HAZARD INFORMATION. THE SAFETY DATA SHEET IS AVAILABLE ON THE DOW WEBSITE AT WWW.CONSUMER.DOW.COM, OR FROM YOUR DOW SALES APPLICATION ENGINEER, OR DISTRIBUTOR, OR BY CALLING DOW CUSTOMER SERVICE. LIMITED WARRANTY INFORMATION PLEASE READ CAREFULLY The information contained herein is offered in good faith and is believed to be accurate. However, because conditions and methods of use of our products are beyond our control, this information should not be used in substitution for customer s tests to ensure that our products are safe, effective and fully satisfactory for the intended end use. Suggestions of use shall not be taken as inducements to infringe any patent. Dow s sole warranty is that our products will meet the sales specifications in effect at the time of shipment. Your exclusive remedy for breach of such warranty is limited to refund of purchase price or replacement of any product shown to be other than as warranted. TO THE FULLEST EXTENT PERMITTED BY APPLICABLE LAW, DOW SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIMS ANY OTHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTY OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE OR MERCHANTABILITY. DOW DISCLAIMS LIABILITY FOR ANY INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES. Trademark of The Dow Chemical Company ( Dow ) or an affiliated company of Dow 208 The Dow Chemical Company. All rights reserved. 3002388 Form No. 27-563-0 D