COLOMBIAMODA 2016 UNCOVERING THE CASE FOR DIVERSITY IN FASHION
SUMMARY ural influences stemming from the Black Diaspora have a deeped and far-reaching impact on the fashion industry. While genous trends and local street style often serve as the inspiration ntire collections, black designers throughout the globe still gle to make their mark. This is something that we see across the ld's premiere fashion capitals. Outside of those markets, the arities are even more palpable. In Colombia home of South rica s second largest population of Blacks the nation s ing fashion industry reflects few designers of color. Cultivating nique well of talent among Afro-Colombians and all people of frican Diaspora, can achieve far-reaching gains that will benefit ndustry as a whole.
The Trailblazers Edwing D Angelo, Lia Samantha Lozano Rendón and Angelica Balanta are all Afro- Columbian Designers who have managed to break socio-economic boundaries and make their mark in a highly competitive fashion industry. Their ability to pull from cultural references, creating looks that are at once vibrant, inspiring and complex has set the stage for a new chapter of burgeoning Afro-Colombian designers.
PART 1: Examining Style Through a Socio- Cultural Lense Designers of the African Diaspora have a meaningful and important contribution to the Global Fashion Marketplace rooted in the notions of displacement and innate creativity. Understanding the unique contextual components on why their message is so important benefits us all.
Representation Matters Throughout the U.S., Latin America, Canada, Europe and Caribbean people of the African-Diaspora are often marginalized and inhabit the poorest of areas. Fashion, throughout history has created an illustrative identity for these communities that makes a statement with little to no words. With that in mind, everything from fabric, to church, to the forming of political movements and hair has elements of style. We saw this among 1970s African-Americans, who wore Afros and in-your-face looks as a strong statement of empowerment and Black pride.
Birthed out of Necessity Many communities of the Black Diaspora include natural artisans who create clothing out of necessity and limited resources. This often leads to some of the most compelling trends; however, few talents are able to access the professional training and mentorship that could help nurture their abilities on a professional level.
The Streets as the Original Runways Though they may lack a larger presence on the retail scape, black street style trends have always been pushed the industry along. As displaced people, Blacks of the African Diaspora bring a unique perspective to their looks, pulling from the indigenous trends and pop culture references that surround them. This often results in standout ensembles that become the lifeblood of innovation. In his book, Fashion Tribes, photojournalist Daniele Tamagni takes a look at the standout style of cultural groups throughout the African Diaspora.
Cultural Appropriation and Black Street Style From the early Hip Hop scene of 1980s New York to the Reggae culture of 1970s Jamaica, black style has often served as the impetus for major fashion movements and entire runway collections, however black designers are rarely at the forefront of such notoriety. Though many trends are birthed out of communities of the black diaspora, they often do not garner widespread acclaim until they are shown on non-blacks. Even today, we see designers such as Tommy Hilfiger and Marc McNair pulling from these very references. Implementing channels where designers from these communities can take ownership of their narratives can be quite powerful.
PART II: Implementing Models for Change In today s global society, where cultural lines are blurred, it is difficult not to be influenced by the diversity that surrounds us. Fashion is one of the industries that can really bring these changes to life. Economies that are able to become more inclusive in these changing times can experience widespread success. Colombia can be at the forefront of that due to its unique positioning and cultural makeup. This can be achieved through several strategic steps.
Why Colombia, Why Now? It is the 3rd largest producer of intimate apparel and manufactures the world s leading brands in sportswear and jeans. It possesses a unique location for global trade, with both Pacific and Atlantic Ocean access to commercial harbors. The nation is quickly becoming one of the world s leading emerging economies, being dubbed the third most business friendly Latin American country by The World Bank s Doing Business Report. Colombia has the 2nd-largest population of blacks in South America, an untapped resource for ultimate creativity.
Start With the Image Makers The creative arts hold a special place in the overall conversation of diversity as the image makers designers, models, fashion editors, photographers, etc. can help create a new narrative by expanding its portrayals of beauty. Afro-Colombian designer Lia Samantha has spoken of the lack of darker skinned models at runway shows, in local magazines and in promotional materials. Creating more diverse portrayals will allow Afro-Colombians to see themselves as part of the larger fashion and societal equation. Working with more diverse modeling agencies to hire more Afro-Latina talent for runway shows and campaigns can help broaden the realm of possibility. Establish an Afro-Latina model search to run in conjunction with top fashion expos such as Colombiamoda as a means of scouting talent.
Creating Real Opportunities Behindthe-Scenes True diversity means transformation from the inside out. So, creating initiatives to grant Afro-Colombians behind-the-scenes mentorship opportunities as wardrobe assistants, stylists, dressers and production assistants can create opportunities for mentorship and growth while allowing those in marginalized areas the opportunity to see the possibilities outside of their day to day interactions. These can be done in conjunction with Afro-Colombian designers like Edwing D Angelo and Lia Samantha as well as other local designers.
Social Media & Brand Partnerships Create initiatives with Afro-Colombian and Afro-Latina fashion and beauty bloggers and vloggers such as Brazilian-based Nataly Neri and Luciellen Assis, shown here. Partner with brands specializing in black hair and makeup on cross platform initiatives such as fashion show sponsorships and modeling competitions among others. Create social media campaigns that highlighting Afro- Colombian designers and tastemakers. Create opportunities for Afro-Colombian fashion designers like Edwing D Angelo, Miss Balanta and Lia Samantha to partner with black-owned cosmetics brands such as IMAN, Jay Manuel and Fashion Fair on limited-edition artist collaborations. They would design packaging and custom color with these brands in the vein of Mara Hoffman for Sephora or Chris Chiang for MAC.
Celebrity Cultivate celebrity partnerships for prime product placement of Afro-Colombian designers with burgeoning celebrities and Afro-Latina stars. This visibility will help these designers gain global exposure for their brands.
Retail Events Partner on events in major department stores as well as international black-owned boutiques. These locations present new possibilities for distribution and exposure for Afro-Colombian designers, such as luxury concept store, Alara, located in Nigera s Victoria Island (shown here). Partner with e-commerce sites like Cooperativa, which highlight Latin-American Designers. These could be a great source of distribution for more Afro-Colombian designers, such as Miss Balanta, who s line of head wraps is currently sold there. Create Pop Up Shops featuring curated items by Afro-Colombian fashion designers and artisans.
Rethinking The Runway Partner with NY Fashion Week on a major runway initiative that will highlighting top Colombian designers including those of Afro- Colombian descent. Gaining exposure for these brands on an international scale during one one of the industry s premiere events could really help these designers in gaining more exposure and retail placement. There is also major opportunity for exposure in Africa since many of these designers pull inspiration from their African heritage. Secure financing from various sponsors including international tourism boards, global retailers (ex. Bloomingdales, Harrod s, Saks, etc.) and major haircare and nail brands.
PART III: Designer Mentorship Afro-Colombian designers should be encouraged to pull from the wealth of creativity that their unique cultural background provides. Globally, this model has worked for many Black designers throughout the diaspora. Here, we examine a few.
MIMI PLANGE This Ghanaian-American designer challenged conventional standards of beauty with her Fall/Winter 2011 Collection Scarred Perfection, inspired by Benin s cultural tradition of body modification. Her unique collection used intensive repetition of pleats, ruffles and ornamentation to replicate some of the textural complexities seen on the body in tribal scarring practices. The acclaimed collection went on to show in various international markets.
STELLA JEAN The Haitian-Italian designer fuses elements from various cultures in her pieces, including artisanal works from Haiti through the technique of Métissage. The word means a mix of culture and heritage, which not only describes who Stella is as a person, but also defines her work. For her Spring 2015 collection she partnered with Haitian artisans in Port-au-Prince on colorful creations that evoke traditional Haitian artwork found in local marketplaces.
MAXHOSA BY LADUMA Inspired by the traditional Xhosa dress worn by those who have completed their manhood initiation, Laduma Ngoxkolo s luxe knitwear brand featured unique patterns and colorful detail.
CLOSING REMARKS Now is the time to truly tap in to the wealth of talent and creativity that Afro-Columbian designers bring to the overall fashion landscape. Doing this will take a cross platform, hands on initiative involving mentorship, positioning and financial support. Investing in the future of Colombian fashion means investing in widespread inclusion. With that premise in mind, the future looks brighter than ever.