Cutting techniques and looks Trainer requirements to teach this lesson For this session you will need the following: Handout.4.1 Handout.4.2 Slide.4.2 Handout.4.3 Practice block and holder, scissors, clippers, razor, sectioning clips, comb Handout.4.4 Activity.4.4 A selection of style plates or photographs depicting emerging fashion hair cuts Handout.4.5 Activity.4.5 Handout.4.6 Handout.4.7 Research.4 Learner Check Session 4 Trainer notes The session will cover: 4.1 The range of classic and current fashion hair shapes, how to create them and the sources of creative information and inspiration 4.2 How the factors in the range can affect the way the hair is cut 4.3 How and why to use all the cutting techniques in the range on women s hair 4.4 Which tools can be used on either wet or dry hair or both, the reasons for establishing and following guidelines and how to create and follow guidelines 4.5 How to personalise and adapt cutting techniques and the effects that can be created by combining and adapting different cutting techniques Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 59 - Unit - Session 4.
4.6 How to crosscheck and balance the cut, why this is important and the importance of considering weight distribution and working with the growth patterns of the hair 4.7 The importance of applying the correct degree of tension to the hair when cutting and the importance of keeping the hair damp throughout the wet cutting process Page 60 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Cutting techniques and looks 4.1 The range of classic and current fashion hair shapes, how to create them and the sources of creative information and inspiration Ref: Handout.4.1 Classic women s hair shapes Explain that these haircuts are looks that have a timeless appeal which never go out of fashion. Explain that many classic cuts are adapted into current fashion looks. Current women s hair shapes Explain that these are what are considered in fashion at the present time. The main influences today are commercial and linked to the media. Female personalities from TV, acting, fashion and the music world are the main images projected. Tell the learners they will learn how the dreate a range of classic and current looks as they progress through this session. Comment that: the commercial rewards from constantly changing these images are the main reason television and magazines display current (and emerging) hairstyles. The manufacturers of styling products also encourage change to stimulate their markets. Explain the importance of keeping up-to-date with what is happening in fashion by using different types of media (exhibitions*, shows, trade magazines, TV, DVDs and the internet) as sources of information for what is happening now in fashion. Discussion Encourage learners to discuss the sources of creative information. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 61 - Unit - Session 4.
Also during the discussion develop the following key points and encourage the learners to give their opinions on how they influence the choice of haircut: historical - hairstyles start somewhere, every look can be tracked down to images and different cultures from the past cultural - religion, nationality and ethnicity and social sub-cultures create classic and fashion hairstyles fashion - is created by fashion designers, sometimes it is a new look and at other times it is remodelling of an older theme. Hairstyling is always a part of the look/theme. Ref: Research.4 Emphasise to learners that it is crucial to maintain currency in their work. This means that they must know what the latest styling trends are and how to complete them. State that if they allow themselves to become out of date with styling trends, they will soon find that they cannot hold down a job. They should be asked to research the range of classic and current cut shapes for women. The results should be presented in a small portfolio showing at least three looks for each category. The learners should be asked to write a brief description of what they think has been the influence for the fashion looks chosen. Encourage learners to seek out their own sources for information from: hairdressing magazines and journals fashion magazines websites for leading hairdressers style collections of leading hairdressers Page 62 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
4.2 How the factors in the range can affect the way the hair is cut Ref: Handout.4.2 Slide.4.2 Use the slide to remind learners of the factors in the range and to promote discussion. The handout will provide confirmation of the discussion points that should be covered. Head, face and body shape: style may be unsuitable for or unflattering Hair growth patterns: there may be a growth pattern that forces you to change the choice of cut you may have to alter your chosen tools to achieve the required look Hair density: the hair may be too sparse for the look the hair may be too abundant for the look The hair length: it may be too short for the required style The hair texture: if the hair is too coarse the required look may be unsuitable if the hair is very fine it may not be possible to create the look Hair elasticity: you will have to adjust the degree of tension that you put on the hair during cutting according to the amount of elasticity in the hair The client s requirements: the client may ask for a look that is impossible to achieve the client may want a look that is unflattering or unsuitable The client s lifestyle: the client may not have sufficient time to maintain the look the client may not have sufficient financial resources to be able to maintain the look Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 63 - Unit - Session 4.
Emphasise to learners the importance of considering all factors before starting a cut, especially if it is a new shape for the client. 4.3 How and why to use all the cutting techniques in the range on women s hair Ref: Handout.4.3 (part 1) Practice block and holder, scissors, clippers, razor, sectioning clips, comb Use the handout to remind learners of the different cutting techniques and discuss the various cutting methods. Pay particular attention to any cutting technique learners are unsure of. Demonstrate them on the practice block if necessary. Ref: Handout.4.3 (part 2) Ask learners to find style plates or photographs that depict when the cutting techniques listed would be used. Learners could be asked to either present the results in a small portfolio, or to present the results to you, as their trainer, or to other members of the group. 4.4 Which tools can be used on wet hair, dry hair or both, the reasons for establishing and following guidelines and how to create and follow guidelines Explain to learners that the fact that hair is wet or dry may prevent them from using a specific tool. Ref: Handout.4.4 Tell learners that when cutting wet hair they can use: scissors, except thinning scissors a razor Page 64 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Emphasise that a razor must only be used on wet hair it must not be used on dry hair or it will cause discomfort to the client and may damage the hair. Ask learners why they should not use thinning scissors on wet hair. The answer should be that they will take too much hair off. State that the following tools can be used on dry hair: scissors thinning scissors clippers, either electric or hand operated Confirm the three reasons for establishing and following guidelines: to determine the finished length and shape of the cut to ensure methodical progression through the cut to ensure accuracy of the cut State that when creating a guideline it does not matter where it is sited on the head, or whether it is horizontal or vertical. Emphasise that the important feature of any guideline is its accuracy. Ref: Activity.4.4 Provide learners with examples of classic and current looks and ask them to either describe or discuss where they would use guidelines to achieve the finished result. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 65 - Unit - Session 4.
4.5 How to personalise and adapt cutting techniques and the effects that can be created by combining and adapting different cutting techniques Ref: Handout.4.5 Remind learners that when they first began cutting, they were probably taught to follow very structured and regimented routines in order to produce a basic, but accurate haircut. Explain that this was a vital step for any hairdresser beginning their training. Once the cutting rules have been learned consistent results will follow. This in turn gives confidence to the hairdresser. However, go on to say that following such organised shapes can become stifling especially if when they are ready to explore their creativity. Explain that once they are confident in their cutting skills they will soon begin to personalise and adapt the cutting rules used for basic hairdressing. Encourage the learners by stating that this isn t so difficult to do. They are aware that all hair is different so even if they want to cut the same style or outline shape on two different clients, they would have to adapt what they did previously to accommodate the different hair growth patterns, hair types and texture. Take this theory a step further explain that as they are cutting current commercial styles and in particular emerging fashions, they will find that they want to change the way they cut. State the different ways they can experiment: when texturising the hair in the way that the hair is held with the tools they choose to use with the angles they choose during the haircut by changing the focus of the weight distribution of the hair Page 66 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Tell learners that they can seek inspiration from: trade magazines and journals watching others working especially leading hairdressers watching DVDs watching demonstrations attending seminars and shows Ref: Activity.4.5 Provide a range of current and/or classic and current looks for the learners to study. (They can be the same that were used for Activity.4.4, or provide new ones.) For each style plate or photographs, indicate how each of the looks was achieved and the tools that were used. Ask learners to look at the photographs and determine a different way of achieving the look. In addition, ask learners to think of alternative tools or equipment to use to achieve the look. Discuss the results with the learners. 4.6 How to crosscheck and balance a cut, why this is important and the importance of considering weight distribution and working with the natural growth patterns of the hair Ref: Handout.4.6 Confirm with learners their understanding of how to crosscheck a cut if they used horizontal cutting sections they should check using vertical sections. Conversely, if they used vertical sections for cutting then they should use horizontal sections for the crosscheck. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 67 - Unit - Session 4.
Explain that this is where the process gets its name they must work across the original sectioning method. By crosschecking, the accuracy of the cut can be assured. Speak about balancing the cut by using the features of the face and head to measure the cut but they must remember that these may not be in perfect alignment one ear or one eyebrow may be slightly higher than the other. Emphasise the need to crosscheck and balance every cut. No-one is so good that they don t need to check and balance their cuts. Explain to learners that they must consider the weight distribution of the hair throughout the head as well as the growth patterns. Tell them that, if they ignore these factors, they will not achieve the result they intend. Weight distribution Say that hair may be bulky in the nape or behind the ears, at the crown or in the upper rear temporal area. It may be sparse on top, at the temples or all over. Emphasise that a good stylist will check this during consultation and design the cut with the weight distribution in mind. Speak about the importance of considering the angle at which the hair is held for cutting. Emphasise to learners that, if they hold the hair at less than 90 to the scalp and the floor, then the weight will be concentrated at the bottom. If they hold it at more than 90 the hair may look straggly at the nape because there will be little weight at the bottom of the head. Growth patterns Explain that the natural growth pattern of the hair will determine the final shape of the cut, the techniques that will be used and the how the finished cut will look. Page 68 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
4.7 The importance of applying the correct degree of tension to the hair when cutting and the importance of keeping the hair damp throughout the wet cutting process Ref: Handout.4.7 Tell learners that hair has properties of elasticity explain that this means that it can stretch and return to its normal length. Emphasise that hair stretches more when wet. Explain that if too much tension is put onto the hair while they are cutting, it will stretch. Say that this means that when the hair goes back to its normal length it will be too short. You should keep the hair damp throughout the cutting process to ensure: even tension can be maintained the hair does not move out of the scissors dry hair moves out of the blades they are able to use a razor it can only be used on wet hair they are able to see the natural fall and growth patterns of the hair Now use the Learner Check for Session 4 to check the understanding of the learners. Use Research.4 to encourage independent learning. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 69 - Unit - Session 4.
Page 70 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Creatively cut hair using a combination of techniques Learner check 1. How does the hair s elasticity affect cutting? 2. Give one reason why hair density may affect the way you cut the hair. 3. Describe the differences between layering and graduating. 1. The hair will stretch too much if tension is applied during cutting then, when it returns to its normal, unstretched state, it will be too short 2. Either one of: the hair may be too sparse to achieve the look the hair may be too abundant for the required look 3. Layering creates minimal variation in lengths over the head, so usually produces a uniform length cut Graduation creates well-defined variations in lengths over the head 4. State why a razor must only be used on wet hair. 5. Define a true double crown. 4. A razor will pull and possibly tear dry hair whereas it will slide over wet hair, doing no damage 5. A true double crown has two distinct whorls Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 71 - Unit - Session 4.
Page 72 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Cutting techniques and aftercare Trainer summary 4.1 The range of classic and current fashion hair shapes, how to create them and the sources of creative information and inspiration Remind learners of the definitions and the differences of classic and current looks. 4.2 How the factors in the range can affect the way the hair is cut Remind learners that the influencing factors are: head, face and body shape hair growth patterns hair density the hair length the hair texture hair elasticity the client s requirements the client s lifestyle Recap briefly how the factors affect the way the hair is cut. 4.3 How and why to use all the cutting techniques in the range on women s hair Remind learners: how to use each technique Set a date for the completion of Part 2 of Handout.4.3. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 73 - Unit - Session 4.
4.4 Which tools can be used on wet hair, dry hair or both, the reasons for establishing and following guidelines, how to create and follow guidelines Remind learners of: the tools to use on wet hair, dry hair or both Reiterate that the three reasons for using guidelines are: to determine the finished length and shape of the cut to ensure methodical progression through the cut to ensure accuracy of the cut 4.5 How to personalise and adapt cutting techniques and the effects that can be created by combining and adapting different cutting techniques Remind learners of the outcomes for the activity to identify suitable adaptations and personalisation. 4.6 How to crosscheck and balance a cut, why this is important and the importance of considering weight distribution and working with the natural growth patterns of the hair Reiterate how to crosscheck a haircut. Recap on the importance of considering: weight distribution growth patterns 4.7 The importance of applying the correct degree of tension to the hair when cutting and the importance of keeping the hair damp throughout the wet cutting process Remind learners of: the effects of elasticity Page 74 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Remind learners that they should keep hair moist for the following reasons: even tension can be maintained the hair does not move out of the scissors dry hair moves out of the blades you are able to use a razor it can only be used on wet hair you are able to see the natural fall and growth patterns of the hair Research.4 Set a date for the completion of the research project. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. Page 75 - Unit - Session 4.
Cutting techniques Key/Core Skills Opportunities There will be an opportunity to promote discussion when covering:.4.1 "sources of information" There will be an opportunity to read and summarise extended documents when completing the research for.4 Portfolio of classic and current looks There will be an opportunity to write different types of documents when completing the research for.4 Portfolio of classic and current looks There will be an opportunity to improve own performance when studying.4 Portfolio of classic and current looks There will be an opportunity to explore, develop and derive information when researching the internet for.4 Portfolio of classic and current looks Create a variety of looks using a combination of cutting techniques Page 76 - Unit - Session 4. Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.